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Introduction - & in need of help!

I'm sorry to hear that, Stacy. I don't know why the clutch would go out. They may also have misdiagnosed it. You didn't give much detail, other than it just went out, so I don't have much to go on. You might call other dealers in the area.


I don't know why either. It's insane! Like I said, I have for the most part only ever driven MT cars. This is the ONLY time in 30 years I have had a clutch go and to the point that it did is beyond. Ironically, I had it in for oil an change/checkup at the dealer I purchased from on April 27. The clutch went on 5/8.

I did contact a mechanic friend. He did the research on the parts - between the fllywheel/clutch and throw arm - I think he said throw arm - total parts cost is $3300. He also has a contact at another Hyundai dealer. He spoke to him and was told that his dealership has only sold two of my and I believe your model since inception. Neither of those two cars have had issue to his knowledge. (He did say he's seen issue with the 2.0's fairly frequently) Not much to go on. You can't get the parts outside of Hyundai at this time. The labor guide allows 6 hours. That right there is $4000. This is what the dealer quoted me.

I went to the dealer this morning to speak to them and took pictures of the flywheel and clutch. Not pretty.

My car had just over 1k miles when I purchased it - it was a demo. I feel that may have a lot to do with the current circumstance. There really isn't much detail to give on how it happened. There was zero indication anything was wrong. It was shifting normally until it didn't. I was in the center lane of traffic and had to get the off to the side so I didn't get hit. I just pressed the clutch as hard as I could and with great difficulty got over. I had little choice.

Hyundai America sent a field agent out yesterday and they claim it's 'user abuse'. I claim BS but I am between a rock and a hard place. The throw arm comes in tomorrow and they can have it fixed by Friday if I authorize. My dilemma is do I bite the bullet pay and then argue with Hyundai or let my car sit there while I argue? :(
 

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I wish I could offer a solution. Seems you are truly being taken advantage of.

It likely is "user abuse"; abuse by the users during the first 1k miles! A demo, tested for 1k miles by tire-kickers who couldn't drive a manual.

Hope you can find another, more empathetic dealership.
 
Wow, Stacy, I know how that feels, so thanks for being patient with me. I went back and read your posts again. I think you should stand your ground and insist this be covered! Your car is still in the first stages of warranty coverage, basically a "no questions asked" period to 24K, generally. You're a "Car Care" customer and you've purchased and extended warranty. They should be giving you a loaner car and behaving in a very "customer service" manner. You could try to get a different dealer involved, but your extended warranty and other papers might be connected to that particular dealer, so you need to complain to the General Manager, and fast.

As for the clutch plate, it's melted and disintegrated for sure. You actually had an indication something was wrong, which was when you said it was quickly becoming unresponsive in traffic, with smoke (that's clutch smoke), and then it went out. That's why I pointed to the slave cylinder/throwout bearing (a hydraulic part regulating the throwout mechanism), because it going out can cause this entire failure. Once that's in motion there is nothing you can do, and especially being stuck in stop-n-go traffic (one of the worst possible situations for a clutch), then it would get chewed up real quick. How did the brakes behave? The slave uses the brake system for hydraulic power.

For comparison, I'd mentioned getting my slave/throwout replaced. I'd thought I was being hard on my clutch, sport driving, some racing, etc, but when they inspected it during the slave replace, they said it looked "new" to them - at 38K miles at that point! They'd asked if I wanted to throw in an aftermarket plate just to upgrade, but there was absolutely nothing wrong with the stock parts.

So, I'm thinking you need to get aggressive with the GM of that dealership. If they're like mine, they do not want an angry customer, a bad review that Hyundai sees, and they will clear it up pretty quick - or at least give you some very clear reasons for denying the claim, which I can't believe would be the outcome. Sheesh, I've had several things replaced with no questions asked, and I also have the extended warranty and a service plan through my dealer. I'm sure there's a crossed wire here somewhere. If all that is right, this was not your fault, and that is why we have warranty coverage.

Lastly, if it does come down to your having to pay, do not buy OEM parts from that dealer. Order aftermarket and have it shipped to the dealer. Looks like current prices for a Competition clutch and flywheel set is $800.

Keep us posted!
 
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I wish I could offer a solution. Seems you are truly being taken advantage of.

It likely is "user abuse"; abuse by the users during the first 1k miles! A demo, tested for 1k miles by tire-kickers who couldn't drive a manual.

Hope you can find another, more empathetic dealership.

LOL I agree. I think that those 1k miles are a very big part of this situation. :( I guess I was foolish for buying it.
 
Wow, Stacy, I know how that feels, so thanks for being patient with me. I went back and read your posts again. I think you should stand your ground and insist this be covered! Your car is still in the first stages of warranty coverage, basically a "no questions asked" period to 24K, generally. You're a "Car Care" customer and you've purchased and extended warranty. They should be giving you a loaner car and behaving in a very "customer service" manner. You could try to get a different dealer involved, but your extended warranty and other papers might be connected to that particular dealer, so you need to complain to the General Manager, and fast.

As for the clutch plate, it's melted and disintegrated for sure. You actually had an indication something was wrong, which was when you said it was quickly becoming unresponsive in traffic, with smoke (that's clutch smoke), and then it went out. That's why I pointed to the slave cylinder/throwout bearing (a hydraulic part regulating the throwout mechanism), because it going out can cause this entire failure. Once that's in motion there is nothing you can do, and especially being stuck in stop-n-go traffic (one of the worst possible situations for a clutch), then it would get chewed up real quick. How did the brakes behave? The slave uses the brake system for hydraulic power.

For comparison, I'd mentioned getting my slave/throwout replaced. I'd thought I was being hard on my clutch, sport driving, some racing, etc, but when they inspected it during the slave replace, they said it looked "new" to them - at 38K miles at that point! They'd asked if I wanted to throw in an aftermarket plate just to upgrade, but there was absolutely nothing wrong with the stock parts.

So, I'm thinking you need to get aggressive with the GM of that dealership. If they're like mine, they do not want an angry customer, a bad review that Hyundai sees, and they will clear it up pretty quick - or at least give you some very clear reasons for denying the claim, which I can't believe would be the outcome. Sheesh, I've had several things replaced with no questions asked, and I also have the extended warranty and a service plan through my dealer. I'm sure there's a crossed wire here somewhere. If all that is right, this was not your fault, and that is why we have warranty coverage.

Lastly, if it does come down to your having to pay, do not buy OEM parts from that dealer. Order aftermarket and have it shipped to the dealer. Looks like current prices for a Competition clutch and flywheel set is $800.

Keep us posted!

I should mention, I thought that I did, my car is at a dealer that I did not purchase from. I haven't contacted the purchase dealer and I probably should from what you are saying. The car went to the closest dealer between my home and where I broke down. I will mention that I found it odd that when I went there yesterday to take the photos - there was only one customer ahead of me. My dealer is usually packed - even though it's in a less 'congested' population area.

I get the 'standing' my ground and my ex-husband is fully on board with you on that! We actually laughed alot when I told him the situation because he would have killed me if I had done this to any one of the cars we had while married. In other words, he knows that I don't ride a clutch or abuse a car. In all this I still have a Honda S2000 I can drive but was just about to sell so it's off road for now. But, hey - that clutch is fine!

I believe that the Platinum Warranty I purchased kicks in after the manufacturers and only applies after the intitial warranty expires with the dealer of purchase.

Yes, that was the indication and the only indication. There was nothing I could do. But that was it....it was under 2 minutes warning. Not fair! The brakes were fine. Then again I was maybe 100 feet from the exit and i got there ASAP. I did mention that Bluelink contacted me earlier in my morning commute to let me know my tires were low. I did get off and check. Believe it or not I have a tire guage in my eyeglass case and a pump in the trunk. But, the tires were fine. I live on Long Island. My first experience with Bluelink was a week after I purchased the car. They called as I was sitting in NY December traffic. When it's cold and you're not rolling to create friction Bluelink calls. As soon as you start to roll and create heat. You're good.

Really about the parts? Where did you find them and now that the dealer has ordered can I change that? I'm so lost.

I have seriously only driven MT cars since I was 18....showing my age now. Never has anything like this happened. I'm ready to lose it.
 
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Well, don't lose it. We've all been in similar situations...or will be. You still should be able to contact your purchase dealer and get them involved. However, first try again with the dealer where the car is one last time with their GM. Do not agree to cover any costs, etc. I see now why they're giving you a hard time, which again, is not your fault. So, first try to resolve it where it is, and then if you have to, try to get your original dealer's GM involved before paying for anything. Actually, I'd get your purchase dealer involved right away, if only to let them know what is happening.

I forgot to address your tire pressure warning. There are sensors in the wheels and the ECU is set to go off at 27psi (the Bluelink on the newer cars must be annoying if they call to tell you there's a light on your dash, but there it is). All it takes is one tire dipping below 27psi and the light will come on until it's pumped back up. The tires can look fine, being sport tires with short sidewalls, but trust me, it's low, so just get them all topped off, of course - least of your worries of course, but just explaining. BTW, I run nitrogen from my dealer, which makes a big difference.
 
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Well, don't lose it. We've all been in similar situations...or will be. You still should be able to contact your purchase dealer and get them involved. However, first try again with the dealer where the car is one last time with their GM. Do not agree to cover any costs, etc. I see now why they're giving you a hard time, which again, is not your fault. So, first try to resolve it where it is, and then if you have to, try to get your original dealer's GM involved before paying for anything. Actually, I'd get your purchase dealer involved right away, if only to let them know what is happening.

I forgot to address your tire pressure warning. There are sensors in the wheels and the ECU is set to go off at 27psi (the Bluelink on the newer cars must be annoying if they call to tell you there's a light on your dash, but there it is). All it takes is one tire dipping below 27psi and the light will come on until it's pumped back up. The tires can look fine, being sport tires with short sidewalls, but trust me, it's low, so just get them all topped off, of course - least of your worries of course, but just explaining. BTW, I run nitrogen from my dealer, which makes a big difference.

Taking it all in........I do check and add air as needed in the tires. :) Please excuse me....I refer to her as the B%&^$ in my mirror. She scares the hell out of me. Here I am minding my own business and there is someone asking me if I am safe. Great and totally unnerving at the same time.

I will call them all right after I exit my first meeting of the day. Trust in me, I do this for the few of us that own this model. They need to know and I AM CONFIDENT that I didn't do it. I will keep you posted.

Thanks for the support.
 
I'm a goner.... I have lost all faith in Hyundai and am ready to throw it out on ALL social media. This is insane. Two SOLID weeks without a loaner car and I am paying TOP dollar for a car I cannot even get information about from TWO dealers.. ALL I get is a run around! MY DEALER has not called back and the Dealer that has my car told me the parts would be in yesterday. NO CALL from anyone? 48 HOURS later. However, they are happy to report that it's USER ABUSE. I FEEL ABUSED. I AM THE ONE WHO IS PAYING. I AM THE ONE WHO WAS STRANDED ON A NYC HIGHWAY. I AM THE ONE WHO IS STUCK WITHOUT A CAR. Am I wrong????
 
I lost my 'nice'. I hit social media. No call back; no car = one unhappy Genesis owner.
 
I don't know why either. It's insane! Like I said, I have for the most part only ever driven MT cars. This is the ONLY time in 30 years I have had a clutch go and to the point that it did is beyond. Ironically, I had it in for oil an change/checkup at the dealer I purchased from on April 27. The clutch went on 5/8.

I did contact a mechanic friend. He did the research on the parts - between the fllywheel/clutch and throw arm - I think he said throw arm - total parts cost is $3300. He also has a contact at another Hyundai dealer. He spoke to him and was told that his dealership has only sold two of my and I believe your model since inception. Neither of those two cars have had issue to his knowledge. (He did say he's seen issue with the 2.0's fairly frequently) Not much to go on. You can't get the parts outside of Hyundai at this time. The labor guide allows 6 hours. That right there is $4000. This is what the dealer quoted me.

I went to the dealer this morning to speak to them and took pictures of the flywheel and clutch. Not pretty.

My car had just over 1k miles when I purchased it - it was a demo. I feel that may have a lot to do with the current circumstance. There really isn't much detail to give on how it happened. There was zero indication anything was wrong. It was shifting normally until it didn't. I was in the center lane of traffic and had to get the off to the side so I didn't get hit. I just pressed the clutch as hard as I could and with great difficulty got over. I had little choice.

Hyundai America sent a field agent out yesterday and they claim it's 'user abuse'. I claim BS but I am between a rock and a hard place. The throw arm comes in tomorrow and they can have it fixed by Friday if I authorize. My dilemma is do I bite the bullet pay and then argue with Hyundai or let my car sit there while I argue? :(

Ok, if you do not mind, let me take a crack at this... First, I believe you.. The pictures show that. Your clutch is not worn out.. It disintegrated.. Has plenty of clutch material in the parts that has not come apart.. What defect caused it to fail? The clutch system, electronics, or clutch itself came apart... YOU did NOT wear it out from abuse.. And what could you do to tear this up? Nothing. And did they pull the CPU data log? YOU be there when they pull the data log.. Do not let them fake something out... It will prove that you were not abusing it in traffic that day.. And possible more long term data on motor RPM limits, whatever, that would justify your claim.. Get the hard data in the data logger (mandated by law) and the data logged by Hyundai that is more detailed than the data logger feature.

The Hyundai regional person, was clueless. It is obvious you did not wear this clutch out, if I am seeing correctly the picture... Do not let them jam you. Hire a local expert if needed to help you. You did not abuse this, then this was a major defective breakdown, period.

Also, did you log the miles in and miles out when it was serviced last? Was there a joy ride taken?

Hope this helps. I admit to know nothing more than what I see in the pictures... And that I add that you should get the CPU data.
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This is a people issue... The car is good from other reports... May be luck of the draw for a defect in yours.. And the morons want to hide it, or are lazy and will not sweat the detail to get to the bottom and pay this under warranty.
 
I lost my 'nice'. I hit social media. No call back; no car = one unhappy Genesis owner.

Where did you post on social media? I'd like to link to it from here if you don't mind...
 
Where did you post on social media? I'd like to link to it from here if you don't mind...

I don't mind, however, I did an get email from Equss Customer Care yesterday stating To more expeditiously assist you, we have assigned your case to our regional office, which works closely with our dealerships.

I then called the number provided and the advisor called the dealer and tried to set me up with a car. Unfortunately, the service department was closed. She stated that it may take 3-5 business days for them to interact with the dealers - which will leave me without a car for three weeks.

That being said, I'd like to wait and see what transpires. The 'shout out' at least was heard.

Frustrating as hell.
 
Ok, if you do not mind, let me take a crack at this... First, I believe you.. The pictures show that. Your clutch is not worn out.. It disintegrated.. Has plenty of clutch material in the parts that has not come apart.. What defect caused it to fail? The clutch system, electronics, or clutch itself came apart... YOU did NOT wear it out from abuse.. And what could you do to tear this up? Nothing. And did they pull the CPU data log? YOU be there when they pull the data log.. Do not let them fake something out... It will prove that you were not abusing it in traffic that day.. And possible more long term data on motor RPM limits, whatever, that would justify your claim.. Get the hard data in the data logger (mandated by law) and the data logged by Hyundai that is more detailed than the data logger feature.

The Hyundai regional person, was clueless. It is obvious you did not wear this clutch out, if I am seeing correctly the picture... Do not let them jam you. Hire a local expert if needed to help you. You did not abuse this, then this was a major defective breakdown, period.

Also, did you log the miles in and miles out when it was serviced last? Was there a joy ride taken?

Hope this helps. I admit to know nothing more than what I see in the pictures... And that I add that you should get the CPU data.

I thought the same thing as far as the picture goes. The real damage is centralized on the clutch and as far as the 'blue' goes on the flywheel that could have happened as I was hauling butt off the parkway so I didn't get hit. It was dangerous to say the least.

I didn't know there was a log. How do I get that?

My last service receipt is in the car glovebox. Miles in were definitely noted - not miles out - to the best of my knowledge.

Had there been 'user abuse' all along I am sure I would have noticed slipping or some sort of indication. There was nothing.
 
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I thought the same thing as far as the picture goes. The real damage is centralized on the clutch and as far as the 'blue' goes on the flywheel that could have happened as I was hauling butt off the parkway so I didn't get hit. It was dangerous to say the least.

I didn't know there was a log. How do I get that?

My last service receipt is in the car glovebox. Miles in were definitely noted - not miles out - to the best of my knowledge.

Had there been 'user abuse' all along I am sure I would have noticed slipping or some sort of indication. There was nothing.

Your car has a data logger, like a commercial airplane. Like a "black box". Make sure they DO NOT star the car and idle it, or the last 10-30 minutes of driving will be erased... It will prove that during the time of the clutch system coming apart, it was not "abide.. It shows all conditions of the car, speed, cornering, g loads, what gear, all kinds of things.

Also, there is a long term system logger.. Takes totals of fastest speed, harsh use, error codes, and whatnot... It will show that overall you are not abusive to your car.

Some of this is deep level CPU stuff. Do not let a monkey with a code reader touch your car... Get the head of service face to face with you. I would be happy to do ahome call with them with you. Make sure your car data backs you up...

Based on the visual, it is a defect... Unless you are Tanner Foust of American Top Gear, doing some kind of 500 mile drift contest and drag race enduro. :)

Hope this helps.
 
I just wanted to update all who have contributed to this thread that Hyundai America has agreed to pick up the cost of the clutch. I finally got word today after quite a bit of back and forth emails and calls.

I pick it up tonight! Very happy!
 
That's great news, Stacy. Thanks for letting us know :)
 
Great news Stacy.... Glad it worked out.
 
I just wanted to update all who have contributed to this thread that Hyundai America has agreed to pick up the cost of the clutch. I finally got word today after quite a bit of back and forth emails and calls.

I pick it up tonight! Very happy!
Awesome, Stacy! So glad to hear it!
 
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