My answer to best wax

[doozer]

Ok, so I tried the Autoglym Super Resin Polish (SRP) and High Definition Wax (HDW) this weekend. Here are my observations (compared to NuFinish and Zaino Z2Pro/ZFX).

The SRP goes on easily and buffed off easily enough with a microfibre cloth. However, it feels closer to a NuFinish type of product than the Zaino. It created a bit of white dust, but not as bad as NuFinish. The Zaino creates zero dust.

The applicator was quite dirty afterwords, much like NuFinish, implying that the product was removing superficial contaminants from the paint. However, the paint was not as smooth as a clay bar treatment... something that I will need to do when I get the time. The paint still felt bumpy in spots. I also worry about using something that might be slightly abrasive. Although the product description says it will remove fine lines and swirl marks, my experience (especially on dark cars) is that these products create more lines than they eliminate.

TLDR: The SRP is a nice alternative to NuFinish. Need to be careful not to apply to black trim. Not sure this product is really necessary for a newer well-kept car.

The HDW produced a very nice gloss. It went on extremely easily using the provided foam applicator. I did the whole car and barely made a dent in the tub of paste. It smells tropical too, which I liked. It did become harder to remove as time went on. It says to leave it for 10-15 minutes in the shade... some panels sat longer and become tougher to buff. So I would recommend doing the car in smaller sections.

I'm happy with the HDW. I think the SRP will sit in my garage unless I get the car really dull/filthy/contaminated somehow. Otherwise, claybar followed by HDW should be sufficient for a new vehicle.

I can't comment on longevity yet, since I just applied it.

I will probably return to Zaino at some point since there was nothing about the Autoglym products that exceeded my experience with them. If anything, Zaino is easier to apply and remove, creates zero dust, and you don't have to be too finicky in avoiding trim pieces. My brother and dad recently tried the Zaino All-in-one which avoids the need to mix Z2pro/ZFX. Maybe I'll try that next.

 

[zielritter]

I've had a good experience with Meguiar's Cleaner Wax. It does the job of a clay bar while applying it (more or less), comes off very easily, and looks good and seems to last a while. It's inexpensive too.

 

[Top Gear]

To me, the best wax depends on what finish you want-- whether wet look, deep gloss, etc.

For some of us, the choice is mainly how long the wax will last before it needs to be waxed again. For a long lasting wax job, I use a synthetic polymer.

Actually, if you properly maintain the finish with easy washing and detailing techniques it will never matter how long the wax theoretically lasts, because it's being boosted regularly. Due to weather and other factors, you cannot count on anything lasting at 100% anyway, nor should you. Sealants might last slightly longer in some cases, but it's a minor, somewhat mythical, difference. Plus, carnauba can protect better.

For me, I choose the deep wet carnauba look, and I use Meguiar's Dual-Action Microfiber System (DAMF) pads with the professional Detailer line compound, polish and wax. I've also used Gold Class liquid wax and the Ultimate compound and polish with foam pads, and others. Once the work is done to "correct" and polish the paint, wax is just there to protect the polished finish, and then it's only a matter of keeping it clean day-to-day as required.

I recently discovered Meguiar's Ultimate Wash & Wax Anywhere, which makes life so easy as it's a synthetic/carnauba "waterless wash" blend (all Meguiar's carnauba waxes/products are blends). I also use their Gold Class Quik Detailer and Gold Class Quik Wax, as well as Gold Glass Shampoo and Ultimate Wash & Wax, which also contains carnauba. When I do a full wash, I either use the carnauba wash liquid or the shampoo, or both if it's that dirty, or re-wax after with the Quik Wax, which literally re-waxes fully in minutes. So, I can go indefinitely before "waxing" again, yet the car is always freshly waxed

(pics are downsized/reduced quality on this forum)

 

[SoCalGen]

I work at 3M so again I might be a little partial. But we own Meguiars and I've found the NXT Tech 2.0 wax to be my wax of choice. I also really like the 3M show car perfect-it wax. In the past I've used others I've also been happy with but lately NXT Tech 2.0 has been getting most of the love.

A good clay bar and detail spray are also essential.

For washing I use Chemical Guys Citrus or Meguiars Gold Class.

 

[NSXNEXT]

Key to keeping it showroom new is to be gentle when washing. It's where even the best Polymer will show scratches.
Do the wheels first.
I use a foam gun with Honeydew Snow Foam and a really soft microfiber wash mitt. Let the foam dwell for a minute then gently wash the car down. Lot's of clean water.
2 bucket method for rinsing the wash mitt. Make sure the mitt is free of debris before going back to the car.
Leaf blower to remove majority of water then Absorber for the remaining water.
Under even the brightest halogen lamps I have very few swirl marks.

 

[doozer]

For me, I choose the deep wet carnauba look, and I use Meguiar's Dual-Action Microfiber System (DAMF) pads with the professional Detailer line compound, polish and wax. I've also used Gold Class liquid wax and the Ultimate compound and polish with foam pads, and others. Once the work is done to "correct" and polish the paint, wax is just there to protect the polished finish, and then it's only a matter of keeping it clean day-to-day as required.

Have you tried the Meguiar's DA drill attachment? I watched some videos, but I'm still hesitant to take a power tool to my car. Does the polish step really remove all swirls and spiderwebbing?

 

[OneFunGenesis]

I have a 10 inch DA polisher I use on my car. I love it. I use a slightly more aggressive pad to polish the car and then a soft pad for laying wax. It takes out the swirls well and then the wax just finishes it off. I haven't really taken a pic of the genesis like that but here is a pic from my old car using the same process.

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[Top Gear]

Have you tried the Meguiar's DA drill attachment? I watched some videos, but I'm still hesitant to take a power tool to my car. Does the polish step really remove all swirls and spiderwebbing?

No, I use a Porter Cable dual-action with a Meguiar's 5-inch backing plate. I started with the thick foam pads, but the paint on our cars is very, very hard, and so I had to upgrade to the microfiber pads. Using a machine is the only way to get a black car looking its best

Depending on the "defects", the polishing step may be all you need. However, as they build up on the hard paint, that will be short-lived. Compounding is necessary, and I even sand. The Genesis paint, at least the Becketts Black on mine, is diamond-hard, and it's near impossible to damage it using any gear Meguiar's makes.

 

[KickTheBox]

Thanks too all for detailing tips. I had a great day today researching and using your suggestions.

 

[SoCalGen]

Another thing is, any clean car can look nice in the shade. It's once you bring it under intense light you'll see the flaws in the paint. I recommend lots of bright florescent lights in the garage where you detail.

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[Ray J]

Thanks people thanks for all the replies just awesome feedback and I learned a few things and will try in future . Anyway I have found that this little trick helps prevent swirls, dust and dried polish. I will put a spray bottle filled with plain water in refrigerator and when finished. I use a clean micro towel and spray cold mist on the paint and polish this should remove swirls dust and dried stuff and harden the polish works great . any feed back appreciated.

 

[Pete3633]

Anyone ever tried FW-1. It's a waterless clean and wax that is sprayed on the car. Clean with a micricrofiber rag. Let dry them wipe with another clean microfiber. Seems to do a decent job.

 

[zielritter]

Anyone ever tried FW-1. It's a waterless clean and wax that is sprayed on the car. Clean with a micricrofiber rag. Let dry them wipe with another clean microfiber. Seems to do a decent job.

I wouldn't use a water-less wax on any vehicle I own. Any particulates on the paint are going to get spread around with the cloth and scratch your clear coat. I see a trend among the negative reviews on Amazon too. Several people report plastic damage and, more alarmingly, damage to the clear coat after repeated uses.

It doesn't take me much time to wash and rinse my vehicle. Usually the most time is put into the waxing portion, so I say why skip out on a relatively short step in the washing/waxing process if it could potentially damage your vehicle?

 

[T_D_Diggs]

Anyone ever tried FW-1. It's a waterless clean and wax that is sprayed on the car. Clean with a micricrofiber rag. Let dry them wipe with another clean microfiber. Seems to do a decent job.

It works ok. But definitely wouldn't use it without a proper clean of the car first.
I bought a couple cans for quick use here and there. But there are better products out there for not much more money

 

[84FordMan]

Anyone ever tried FW-1. It's a waterless clean and wax that is sprayed on the car. Clean with a micricrofiber rag. Let dry them wipe with another clean microfiber. Seems to do a decent job.

LOL did it finally make it into a store? Last time I saw it was 2008 and I was at a gas station and this guy approaches me with it and a rag and tries to spray it on my car without asking, telling me about its waterless abilities.

 

[zielritter]

LOL did it finally make it into a store? Last time I saw it was 2008 and I was at a gas station and this guy approaches me with it and a rag and tries to spray it on my car without asking, telling me about its waterless abilities.

That's like walking up to my wife and starting to rub lotion on her skin without asking first.

 

[xiaphin]

Finally waxed my car over the weekend using Meguiars NXT 2.0 Tech Wax with Meguiars Ultimate Quick Wax on Top. For some reason the quick wax gave it more of a slick finish. Placing a bottle on the hood would slide right off but wouldn't when only appying the 2.0 Tech Wax.

Figured I should give my car similar treatment as my wheels. Used chemical Guys Jetseal on the them which took an hour a piece! But they look great.

 

[Big_tugg]

Wax is a protectant layer, nothing more, it does not add gloss nor depth.

Cleaner wax, however, will add "gloss" and "depth" by the use of fillers and a meager amount of polishing oils blended in. Fillers don't last the length of the actual wax, which causes you to apply more sooner. Cleaner waxes and glazes are a staple of any "detailer" at a used car lot.

What wax is the best wax? For me, it's just a pure carnauba, if it goes on easy and comes off easy, then it is the best. All waxes will bead water and provide sheeting action and most offer the same amount of durability. I apply wax with my Meguiars G110V2 dual action polisher on a 6.5" finishing pad. Front bumper is a little busy, so I apply it by hand there, but the rest of the car is doable with a single 6.5". Allow wax to cure for 15 minutes or so, check with a finger swipe (Clean finger, swipe, should expose completely clean area, if no streaks or spotting, then it's time to buff). I grab a clean 6.5" finishing pad, one mist of detailing spray on the pad and buff off. One spray to the pad per panel is sufficient for wax removal.

My process:

- Foam cannon as a pre-soak and rinse off

- 2 bucket wash, rinse bucket has Grit Guard fitted to the bottom (Grit Guard should fit snug to the bottom and should not spin, if it does, you have the wrong bucket), 2 different wash mitts (One for above the belt line, one for below the belt line)

- Dry with cordless leaf blower, finish up with soft waffle weave towel

- Inspect paint condition, if no correction needed, apply sealant, allow to cure 24 hours, then apply a 'topper' (wax)

- If correction is needed, Meguiars M105, pad depending on severity of correction needed, follow up with Meguiars M205. Then sealant, allow to cure, then wax. In a pinch if not enough time is allowed for my prefered sealant to cure, then I substitute Chemical Guys Black Light, it only has a cure time of 30 minutes between coats. Not as durable as HT-62, but still good enough for me.

Also, check your microfibers, if you drag it across your palm and it feels like velcro, then you have shit microfibers. I've had great success out of The Rag Company online in getting quality microfiber without paying for someone's name on them.

Holy smokes what part of NC are you located?

 

[The Ruckus]

My latest favorite combo is Poorboy's Natty's red followed up with Black Hole show glaze. The paint comes out looking deep and dark, and my garage smells AMAZING for days afterwards. I need to get a DA to unleash the full potential of the products, for now I've been doing it by hand, and an old school craftsman polishing wheel with microfiber bonnets.

 

[Lord Humunculous]

Just got me one of these, 17/150, for the upcoming 2016. Not sure what I will precede it with yet, lots of great options, but def a nanoskin first after much foam lance and many buckets...

The rail frass on new cars in Texas is impressive, I have to wonder if it is like this all over the country