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New Hyundai recall #201 (ABS)

Putting in a lower rated fuse to open sooner is in no way a 'fix'. No drain to ground (short circuit) is acceptable at any amperage. If the system design amperage requires a 40A Fuse than that's the correct fuse. If the circuitry in the suspected module is corroding it wasn't cleaned, sealed and coated properly. You can't incur a short within the module without something being damaged, especially to open a 40A fuse!
Earlier Mikebrooks said the same thing, the fuse is not the root cause. If the car is off, there should be no load, thus no overload, no problem. I'd like a better explanation.
 
Earlier Mikebrooks said the same thing, the fuse is not the root cause. If the car is off, there should be no load, thus no overload, no problem. I'd like a better explanation.

Nothing in the car gets power disconnected when you turn the key off. It just gets a CAN command to go to sleep.

The information I'm gleaning from Hyundai about the issue is the circuit board inside the ABS module isn't properly potted or sealed. There is possibly a corrosion issue or manufacturing defect that causes the relays for the boost motors to short closed. The ABS motors are extremely limited duty cycle and rapidly heat up under normal operation. Normally, there's a failsafe that disengages the motors when they're too hot, but with the relays shorted it won't turn off anything.

So it'll run until something flammable combusts or actually shorts out enough to blow the fuses. Reducing the fuse size significantly mitigates the risk of a fire as the thermal potential is a lot less.

Mercedes had a similar recall for their SBCs developing a motor control short, but they have secondary disconnect relays to cut power in the event of overheating.
 
Putting in a lower rated fuse to open sooner is in no way a 'fix'. No drain to ground (short circuit) is acceptable at any amperage. If the system design amperage requires a 40A Fuse than that's the correct fuse. If the circuitry in the suspected module is corroding it wasn't cleaned, sealed and coated properly. You can't incur a short within the module without something being damaged, especially to open a 40A fuse!
Could well be the fix, time will tell. No one around here is advocating for that fix, but it was reported in C&D. Someone runs an FMEA current state vs smaller fuse, If it prevents the rare catastrophic failure scenarios then it might be the most practical solution to implement. Hyundai is big but they do not have unlimited time and money. Welcome to the imperfect real world of trade offs.
 
Putting in a lower rated fuse to open sooner is in no way a 'fix'. No drain to ground (short circuit) is acceptable at any amperage. If the system design amperage requires a 40A Fuse than that's the correct fuse. If the circuitry in the suspected module is corroding it wasn't cleaned, sealed and coated properly. You can't incur a short within the module without something being damaged, especially to open a 40A fuse!
I agree the fuse fix does nothing for a faulty ABS unit. It seems to just prevent a fire when a fault occurs in the ABS module. The faulty ABS unit will just keep blowing the lower rated fuses until it is replaced I bet.
 
Probably will help.

I just pulled out my two 40 amp fuses that says "VCD/ECS". I assume that they are the ABS fuses in question. My car is parked until the weather warm up, so hopefully I will get some more information on the proper fuses to use before I use my Genesis again.

I do not want it turning into a fireball in the mean time.
Please enlighten me, why should I stop using autohold?
 
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Please enlighten me, why should I stop using autohold?
I think that it uses the ABS module to apply the brakes...
 
Among other things that depends on the ABS systems such as the electronic parking break, traction control, adaptive Cruise control, Collision avoidance and some other parts of the ESC system...

Other things to consider driving the vehicle without these builtin safety features may impact the insurance payout in an event if an accident, should they find out these systems have been disabled.
Also if something breaks, the warranty might be voided should Hyundai or Genesis finds out that these systems deliberately have been tampered with.

just my two cents... so YMMV...
 
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I have 2015 5.0 model, looks like this was recently issued.
Yes...I have an appt today to get this corrected...or whatever theyre gonna do!
 
Does anyone know if Hyundai Canada has issued anything on this? I will be checking with my Halifax dealer this week.
 
Please enlighten me, why should I stop using autohold?
I am only agreeing that not using the auto hold feature may prevent the ABS unit from being used while it is parked, however it may not have any impact on the ABS module failure rate. Hence why I stated it may help. I have no idea what will cause the ABS module to fail or to prevent it.
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Among other things that depends on the ABS systems such as the electronic parking break, traction control, adaptive Cruise control, Collision avoidance and some other parts of the ESC system...

Other things to consider driving the vehicle without these builtin safety features may impact the insurance payout in an event if an accident, should they find out these systems have been disabled.
Also if something breaks, the warranty might be voided should Hyundai or Genesis finds out that these systems deliberately have been tampered with.

just my two cents... so YMMV...
Hence why my advice would be to only remove the troublesome 40A ABS fuses only when the car is parked in a garage and then replace the fuses when the car is driven.
 
I am only agreeing that not using the auto hold feature may prevent the ABS unit from being used while it is parked, however it may not have any impact on the ABS module failure rate. Hence why I stated it may help. I have no idea what will cause the ABS module to fail or to prevent it.
Auto-hold has nothing to do with a parked car. It's a feature that only does anything while the car is running and in gear. If you park with auto-hold on, it applies the parking brake for you, and then the ABS doesn't have anything more to do with it. The parking brake is a separate assembly and module.
The ABS module still gets power while the car is off, no matter what features you use or don't use. It stays powered just because that was simpler than adding any extra relays to switch the high-current power feed to it off.
 
Auto-hold has nothing to do with a parked car. It's a feature that only does anything while the car is running and in gear. If you park with auto-hold on, it applies the parking brake for you, and then the ABS doesn't have anything more to do with it. The parking brake is a separate assembly and module.
The ABS module still gets power while the car is off, no matter what features you use or don't use. It stays powered just because that was simpler than adding any extra relays to switch the high-current power feed to it off.
Your explanation sounds good to me. I was not exactly certain if the auto hold and ABS share a similar circuit that keeps the ABS module powered on even if the car is turned off and parked when the autohold is engaged.

So it appears by your explanation that the ABS module is constantly on and that it can develop a short at anytime if it fails. So me pulling the 40A ABS fuses (to power off the ABS module)when the car is parked seem to be only way to prevent a fire due to a ABS module wire short until the issue is resolved with lesser rated fuses and/or new ABS module.
 
So it appears by your explanation that the ABS module is constantly on and that it can develop a short at anytime if it fails. So me pulling the 40A ABS fuses (to power off the ABS module)when the car is parked seem to be only way to prevent a fire due to a ABS module wire short until the issue is resolved with lesser rated fuses and/or new ABS module.
Putting is a smaller fuse it not a fix, it should be a temporary step while resolving the real issue.
Like going to the doctor with a balance problem. "Doc, I wet up on my 6 foot ladder and got dizzy and fell, what should I do?" The doctor said "get a 3 foot ladder".
 
Without a schematic we are all really just guessing. 40 amps is a ton of current to put in an electronic module. If the issue is corrosion within the control circuitry it's probably shorting traces on the printed wire board which may be energizing a high current relay external to the module (maybe in the drive unit itself), without any control or safety limits. So, pulling the fuse may not even be de-energizing the module.
 
Without a schematic we are all really just guessing. 40 amps is a ton of current to put in an electronic module. ...
True, but that electronic module controls several high-speed solenoid valves (that block or apply hydraulic pressure to the brake pistons) and a high pressure hydraulic pump. I could see that easily taking peaks of 40 amperes. I would expect the high current drives to be in the module itself, though I guess there could be a mechanical pump relay.
 
I visited two Hyundai dealerships in person and both said that Hyundai recognizes there is an ABS problem but they don’t have a remedy for the issue yet.
 
Auto-hold has nothing to do with a parked car. It's a feature that only does anything while the car is running and in gear. If you park with auto-hold on, it applies the parking brake for you, and then the ABS doesn't have anything more to do with it. The parking brake is a separate assembly and module.
The ABS module still gets power while the car is off, no matter what features you use or don't use. It stays powered just because that was simpler than adding any extra relays to switch the high-current power feed to it off.
Well, I would bet that the fuses does cut power to the brake module because the official solution by Hyundai is to use a lower rated fuse to cut power to the module in advent of a failure to prevent it from drawing excessive amps and causing a fire risk.
 
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