Playing music from USB Drive

[Volfy]

Strange in my case a 2022 g70 sport with the Lexicon system sounds clearer and a wider sound stage using spotify on my Android vs. high quality files on a thumb drive. For the record this audio system does not impress my and likely very difficult and costly to improve and not a fan. I have some excellent home audio equipment and several great headphones and 4 tb of high rez files but this car sounds veiled and bland yet the spotify wireless seems clearer and fuller and this doesn't make any sense to me? I own the car and plan to keep it for sometime just don't care to rip it apart as I've done in the past with other cars, too bad Hyundai cheaped out

I'm not surprised some down-market cars have more up-to-date infotainment system than our cars. G70 dates back to 2019, and probably more like 2018, since it was co-developed with the Kia Stinger. It is what it is, and there is no sense getting all upset about it. That said, one saving grace is that G70/Stinger has Android Auto built-in. This opens up a digital "back door", which we can exploit.

I just recently got a Motorola MA-1 dongle for Android Auto and have been playing podcast and music via AA BT Wireless. The sound quality overall, is much better than any material played through the head unit's source selection, including USB drive. What I think is happening is that AA BT Wireless bypasses a lot - if not all - of the head unit's sound processor. Instead, it pumps the digital stream directly into the DAC. Since I listen mostly to Amazon Music Unlimited, the app let's me know what bitrate any particular track is, as well as what my phone is capable of transferring, and even what the playback device is capable of receiving. As an example, Nora Jones' "Don't Know Why" has the highest bitrate I have found on AMU (see below).

It even has a Dolby ATMOS codec option, which both my Oneplus 9 Pro and the Motorola MA-1 can decode. ATMOS sounds amazing for the most part, but at times I still prefer the "uncolored" digital transfer.

Now, I have mine set up such that AA connects automatically, as soon as I turn ON the car, and I play audio exclusively through my phone. It has transformed how I interact with my car. Even my Stinger's base audio system, which sounded hohum at best before, is now quite listenable, even to my jaded ears that have heard much better car audio systems.

For an investment of less than $100, I consider the return on sound quality and user friendliness very much worth it.

 

[AuditoGenesis]

Sorry t resurrect this thread,

I'm not surprised some down-market cars have more up-to-date infotainment system than our cars. G70 dates back to 2019, and probably more like 2018, since it was co-developed with the Kia Stinger. It is what it is, and there is no sense getting all upset about it. That said, one saving grace is that G70/Stinger has Android Auto built-in. This opens up a digital "back door", which we can exploit.

I just recently got a Motorola MA-1 dongle for Android Auto and have been playing podcast and music via AA BT Wireless. The sound quality overall, is much better than any material played through the head unit's source selection, including USB drive. What I think is happening is that AA BT Wireless bypasses a lot - if not all - of the head unit's sound processor. Instead, it pumps the digital stream directly into the DAC. Since I listen mostly to Amazon Music Unlimited, the app let's me know what bitrate any particular track is, as well as what my phone is capable of transferring, and even what the playback device is capable of receiving. As an example, Nora Jones' "Don't Know Why" has the highest bitrate I have found on AMU (see below).

It even has a Dolby ATMOS codec option, which both my Oneplus 9 Pro and the Motorola MA-1 can decode. ATMOS sounds amazing for the most part, but at times I still prefer the "uncolored" digital transfer.

Now, I have mine set up such that AA connects automatically, as soon as I turn ON the car, and I play audio exclusively through my phone. It has transformed how I interact with my car. Even my Stinger's base audio system, which sounded hohum at best before, is now quite listenable, even to my jaded ears that have heard much better car audio systems.

For an investment of less than $100, I consider the return on sound quality and user friendliness very much worth it.

View attachment 48860View attachment 48861

 

[AuditoGenesis]

Sorry to resurrect this thread, however, hoping you can help me.
I'm struggling to get AA auto to work properly in the car, especially because I only want it for music and I still want my iPhone for messaging/phone.
Does AA via the Motorola dongle use WiFi or BT and WIFI as CarPlay does?
In other words, can/does it use BT just for negotiation/coordination to the head unit and then release?
I want to connect my iPhone simultaneously, but with wired AA it will not allow it...
Wiling to buy the dongle if you can confirm or know how it actually works???
TIA!!!

I'm not surprised some down-market cars have more up-to-date infotainment system than our cars. G70 dates back to 2019, and probably more like 2018, since it was co-developed with the Kia Stinger. It is what it is, and there is no sense getting all upset about it. That said, one saving grace is that G70/Stinger has Android Auto built-in. This opens up a digital "back door", which we can exploit.

I just recently got a Motorola MA-1 dongle for Android Auto and have been playing podcast and music via AA BT Wireless. The sound quality overall, is much better than any material played through the head unit's source selection, including USB drive. What I think is happening is that AA BT Wireless bypasses a lot - if not all - of the head unit's sound processor. Instead, it pumps the digital stream directly into the DAC. Since I listen mostly to Amazon Music Unlimited, the app let's me know what bitrate any particular track is, as well as what my phone is capable of transferring, and even what the playback device is capable of receiving. As an example, Nora Jones' "Don't Know Why" has the highest bitrate I have found on AMU (see below).

It even has a Dolby ATMOS codec option, which both my Oneplus 9 Pro and the Motorola MA-1 can decode. ATMOS sounds amazing for the most part, but at times I still prefer the "uncolored" digital transfer.

Now, I have mine set up such that AA connects automatically, as soon as I turn ON the car, and I play audio exclusively through my phone. It has transformed how I interact with my car. Even my Stinger's base audio system, which sounded hohum at best before, is now quite listenable, even to my jaded ears that have heard much better car audio systems.

For an investment of less than $100, I consider the return on sound quality and user friendliness very much worth it.

View attachment 48860View attachment 48861

 

[joegr]

...
In other words, can/does it use BT just for negotiation/coordination to the head unit and then release?
I want to connect my iPhone simultaneously, but with wired AA it will not allow it...
Wiling to buy the dongle if you can confirm or know how it actually works???
TIA!!!

I can only speak to CarPlay. I don't know how similar AndroidAuto is.
Yes, Bluetooth is only for the initial handshake, then it switches to WiFi. After that, Bluetooth is available and could connect to the car, however CarPlay takes over and doesn't allow it. I don't know if the phone itself refuses once CarPlay is going (I think this is the case), or if the car refuses the Bluetooth once CarPlay is going (I don't think so).

 

[AuditoGenesis]

I can only speak to CarPlay. I don't know how similar AndroidAuto is.
Yes, Bluetooth is only for the initial handshake, then it switches to WiFi. After that, Bluetooth is available and could connect to the car, however CarPlay takes over and doesn't allow it. I don't know if the phone itself refuses once CarPlay is going (I think this is the case), or if the car refuses the Bluetooth once CarPlay is going (I don't think so).

Joe (assume ),

I have researched this ad nauseam for CarPlay.
CarPlay does NOT monopolize the vehicle BT as Android Auto does - so with CarPlay, you can connect another phone to BT in the vehicle, if it supports 2 phones.
CarPlay maximum wired Bitrate for audio is 48/16 - period.
Doesn't matter what hi-res audio player is used, that's the kernel of iOS and is then reflected in CarPlay.
CarPlay doesn't support (aka Apple doesn't support) a BT codec better than AAC-LC, at somewhere between 250kbps and 320kbps.
Even wireless CarPlay uses L-PCM at 48K - no hi def (high res and high def are different).
Definitely lossy, unless your media files are already at or below those bitrates.

Android phones, however, have (some) some pretty phenomenal BT capabilities, with HighRes codecs available like AptX, LHDC, LDAC, etc - all of which promise some level of bitrate between 600kbps and ~970kbps - so much better quality.
Unfortunately, however, Genesis does not support anything other than the SBC codec which is, unfortunately, only as good as AAC.

Hope that helped... still looking for info on AA wireless (and wired) quality both in AA spec, and how Genesis implements it....
I just spent $500 on a Digital Audio Player to try and work around some of these issues, but found OTHER issues to contend with, and still don't know if I solved the ORIGINAL issues - LMAO.

I still have 26 days to return the DAP to Amazon if I can't get the answer.

 

[Volfy]

You bring up a good point. While I can see what bit rate transfers from my phone to the Motorola MA-1 (see screen grabs above), I'm not sure what happens in the hardwired USB going into the Genesis, whether the BT high-res is downconverted to a lower bitrate. That said, I can definitely tell the difference switching between UltraHD and Atmos on the same track, so much of the information survived any downconversion and is carried thru the USB transfer. Comparing UltraHD and SD source material is not as certain. With a good reference system, I can usually hear UltraHD's better clarity and ambience quality; however, the G70's Lexicon, while good, doesn't quite have the stereo imaging, soundstage and S/N ratio to take advantage of the higher bitrate... even when parked and engine shut off. In normal driving, the noise floor is high enough, none of those nuances would've been audible - even if they were there. So realistically, the analog side has to be good enough for better digital transfers to make a difference.

As for AA's use of BT... yes, it does hang on to it for the audio link. I myself prefer that actually, as it tends to transition seamlessly when going back and forth between AA-mode and non-AA, so there is no interruption in the music playback, or phone call in progress. I only use my android phone, so I have no need for other BT connections.

 

[AuditoGenesis]

I've placed 4 calls into Lexicon who claims they have nothing to do with the model number of anything in our Genesis Lexicon system, which seems suspicious to me.
I have also placed at least 10 calls into Genesis related to some aspect of the infotainment unit, from lack of support for playlists on USB media, to the file limit of 8750 on the same media.
Dealers are clueless as are Genesis reps.
I've never had such a terrible experience getting answers to basic questions, and it's making me believe no one wants to answer the question because they are concerned about how the answers would play.
I would bet that people paying $1K or more for an upgraded system, or in the US it's part of a $7K package, would not be happy with the current perception of the limitations....
I've had Audi, Lexus, VW and others, and all the features in even their basic systems supported more, but I always paid more for the improved audio "upgrades" in each...

Frustrating....

PS: The defects I hear most from the system actually emanate from the center channel on the dash. With Bluetooth directly or USB audio, you can disable the Lexicon processing, but you can never remove the center channel completely. In AA or CarPlay, you have no option for Lexicon processing at all. If I take a piece of cardboard and cover the center channel, the system sounds REMARKABLY better for audio. I am unsure if the center is used for Navigation or voice responses in the car, but removing it for audio would help tremendously.

You bring up a good point. While I can see what bit rate transfers from my phone to the Motorola MA-1 (see screen grabs above), I'm not sure what happens in the hardwired USB going into the Genesis, whether the BT high-res is downconverted to a lower bitrate. That said, I can definitely tell the difference switching between UltraHD and Atmos on the same track, so much of the information survived any downconversion and is carried thru the USB transfer. Comparing UltraHD and SD source material is not as certain. With a good reference system, I can usually hear UltraHD's better clarity and ambience quality; however, the G70's Lexicon, while good, doesn't quite have the stereo imaging, soundstage and S/N ratio to take advantage of the higher bitrate... even when parked and engine shut off. In normal driving, the noise floor is high enough, none of those nuances would've been audible - even if they were there. So realistically, the analog side has to be good enough for better digital transfers to make a difference.

As for AA's use of BT... yes, it does hang on to it for the audio link. I myself prefer that actually, as it tends to transition seamlessly when going back and forth between AA-mode and non-AA, so there is no interruption in the music playback, or phone call in progress. I only use my android phone, so I have no need for other BT connections.

 

[Volfy]

Back in my college days, I used to do car audio and alarm installs to make some extra spending money. Got to play with lots of cars and equipment. Spent umpteen hours auditioning, testing and tweaking, because that was the job. While I did enjoy it at lot at the time an still do to this day, I constantly have to remind myself not to get too wrapped up in "listening to equipment". It's a curse that plagues those of us who have known how good "good" can be.

These days, I don't bother with aftermarket car audio much any more. I try to ignore my inner voice that tells me how and what can be improved... and just listen to the music instead.

Ultimately, I'm happier this way.

 

[AuditoGenesis]

Yeah, same here in college.
And yeah, it's a plague.
I was also a musician.

Long story longer, like you, I don't do full system excisions anymore, and have limited my surgery to maybe a sub in my cars...
Unfortunately, this Lexicon situation is a bit too hard to ignore.
I'm not even in the car that much any longer (disabled), but when I am - my over sensitive hearing is forcing me to proceed.
The worst part of this is the sibilation.

I'm trying a DAP with some custom equalization via USB, hence my questions about bitrate on AA.
Now that I've discovered it's mostly from the center channel, I'm going to try and find an OEM looking way to reduce the output in that speaker.
I am also curious if facing towards the rear would help, but reducing output to the mid-bass in the front would probably alter the sound too much.

FLAC (meant as an expletive).... LOL!

Back in my college days, I used to do car audio and alarm installs to make some extra spending money. Got to play with lots of cars and equipment. Spent umpteen hours auditioning, testing and tweaking, because that was the job. While I did enjoy it at lot at the time an still do to this day, I constantly have to remind myself not to get too wrapped up in "listening to equipment". It's a curse that plagues those of us who have known how good "good" can be.

These days, I don't bother with aftermarket car audio much any more. I try to ignore my inner voice that tells me how and what can be improved... and just listen to the music instead.

Ultimately, I'm happier this way.

 

[Volfy]

I think I know the sibilation you are referring to. I believe it's symptomatic of a lot of OEM audio system... some worse than others. OEM audio engineers quite often do this purposely to make the top end of the frequency response sound more impressive to the average owner than the typical budget-conscious OEM tweeters can muster. It's somewhat similar to the treble pre-emphasis FM stations notoriously love to over-do. It drives me insane listening to that crap. What is worse is that since it's a timing (phase) shift, as well as treble boost, it's not always easy to tweak it out. I see why you bought the DAP. I'd be interested to know how well you get on with it.

For me, that doesn't bother me as much in the G70. What I would rather improve on is the stereo imaging and front soundstage. The placement of the front drivers seem to get worse year after year. Interior styling appears to be far more important than pleasing the audiophiles. However, fundamentally fixing that would require possibly replacing, relocating and/or re-aiming the front drivers. There was a time when I wouldn't even think twice before going whole hog. These days though, that is just wayyy to much surgery than I care to carve into.

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[AuditoGenesis]

I think I know the sibilation you are referring to. I believe it's symptomatic of a lot of OEM audio system... some worse than others. OEM audio engineers quite often do this purposely to make the top end of the frequency response sound more impressive to the average owner than the typical budget-conscious OEM tweeters can muster. It's somewhat similar to the treble pre-emphasis FM stations notoriously love to over-do. It drives me insane listening to that crap. What is worse is that since it's a timing (phase) shift, as well as treble boost, it's not always easy to tweak it out. I see why you bought the DAP. I'd be interested to know how well you get on with it.

For me, that doesn't bother me as much in the G70. What I would rather improve on is the stereo imaging and front soundstage. The placement of the front drivers seem to get worse year after year. Interior styling appears to be far more important than pleasing the audiophiles. However, fundamentally fixing that would require possibly replacing, relocating and/or re-aiming the front drivers. There was a time when I wouldn't even think twice before going whole hog. These days though, that is just wayyy to much surgery than I care to carve into.

Hey, so I think I got the DAP to output 192/24 to the headhunt, via Android Auto.
At least that's what the player says.
However, if I switch to wireless AA, the player only reports 48/16 and I cannot improve it.

Also, after playing around a bit last night, I both reduced the sibilation and dramatically improved the stereo imaging by obstructing the center channel altogether.
I would LOVE to permanently modify the center channel, however, I cannot yet figure out a way to do this so it doesn't look like sh_t. LOL.

Any ideas appreciated.

 

[Volfy]

Hey, so I think I got the DAP to output 192/24 to the headhunt, via Android Auto.
At least that's what the player says.
However, if I switch to wireless AA, the player only reports 48/16 and I cannot improve it.

Not sure how your setup is, but my wireless AA link is between my phone and the MA-1, and that has been dead reliable about transmitting any bitrate and codec Amazon Music Unlimited can throw at it.

Also, after playing around a bit last night, I both reduced the sibilation and dramatically improved the stereo imaging by obstructing the center channel altogether.
I would LOVE to permanently modify the center channel, however, I cannot yet figure out a way to do this so it doesn't look like sh_t. LOL.

Any ideas appreciated.

Maybe I'm old-school, but I'm really not a fan of center channel, except for home theatre. Bluray and 4k discs often carry uncompressed 5.1 and 7.1 audio, so that make sense for movie/video soundtracks in a dedicated HT build. At home, my center channel is actually the exact same speaker as my L/R front speakers, so timbre matching is guarantied. In a car, that would be tough to do.

I don't watch video in any of my cars, so the only source materials I would play are 2-ch stereo. I'm not even sure what the center channel is good for in a car cabin. Any "synthesized" center channel from stereo source never sounded good to me, as it always muddies the stereo image and front soundstage I hold dear in a good system. This is especially true for female vocals, as the frequencies are higher and bit more directional. My favorite reference car audio system I used to build uses only 4 drivers up front (tweets and midwoofs), a pair of rear fills and a single 8" sub loaded in a simple acoustic suspension box with Qtc of 0.7. With good source material, I could close my eyes and hear Tina Turner dance across the hood of the car. Or pin point Tuck and Patti's voice timbre & guitar picks across the soundstage.

Sometimes less is more.

 

[AuditoGenesis]

Completely agree on the center channel.
As the GV70 supports watching movies, I can understand the center channel.
I can even understand the center as it relates to some of the Lexicon processing modes...
But I don't use those modes, and it sounds like you don't either.
I am a purist and old-school, like you.
There should be a way to disable the center channel altogether.
It would fix the stereo imaging in Reference mode...

PS: My experiment with the DAP was a fail.
AA and CarPlay both ONLY support 48K/16b....

So I'm back to USB source material.
I did, however, resample some music to 192/24 (as opposed to my usual 96/24) and it MIGHT have reduced the sibilance issue.
Found a tip online to try it, so I'm experimenting...

Not sure how your setup is, but my wireless AA link is between my phone and the MA-1, and that has been dead reliable about transmitting any bitrate and codec Amazon Music Unlimited can throw at it.

Maybe I'm old-school, but I'm really not a fan of center channel, except for home theatre. Bluray and 4k discs often carry uncompressed 5.1 and 7.1 audio, so that make sense for movie/video soundtracks in a dedicated HT build. At home, my center channel is actually the exact same speaker as my L/R front speakers, so timbre matching is guarantied. In a car, that would be tough to do.

I don't watch video in any of my cars, so the only source materials I would play are 2-ch stereo. I'm not even sure what the center channel is good for in a car cabin. Any "synthesized" center channel from stereo source never sounded good to me, as it always muddies the stereo image and front soundstage I hold dear in a good system. This is especially true for female vocals, as the frequencies are higher and bit more directional. My favorite reference car audio system I used to build uses only 4 drivers up front (tweets and midwoofs), a pair of rear fills and a single 8" sub loaded in a simple acoustic suspension box with Qts of 0.7. With good source material, I could close my eyes and hear Tina Turner dance across the hood of the car. Or pin point Tuck and Patti's voice timbre & guitar picks across the soundstage.

Sometimes less is more.

 

[Volfy]

If playing 5.1/7.1 and the GV70 Lexicon system can handle the transfer, then the center channel might be of some value. That said, in a car cabin, trying to set up the center channel drivers to match L/R is already tough enough, as I mentioned above. Add on top of that, the fact that I've yet to see a car mfr able to fire center channel speakers in any other direction, other than up and bouncing off the windshield glass. Not only does that add coloration to the center channel, it also makes for horrible path length control, relative to L/R. Car audio is already challenging enough with the listening position being offset, bouncing off the glass introduces all sorts of phase errors that are next to impossible to correct... even digitally. I don't doubt that might also be contributing to your sibilation problem, with some of the higher frequencies coming out of the CC canceling out the same coming out of the L/R, causing peaks and troughs in the frequency response.

I think you are almost better off trying to ixnay the CC all together, than attempting to correct the woes that are already there.

 

[AuditoGenesis]

Completely agree on the ixnay of the CCray.
Just putting a piece of thick paper on top of it dramatically improved stereo imaging and eliminated the sibilance issue.
For now, however, I've gone against my better judgement and have turned on "Audience" mode, however, I've pushed the fader one or two notches back (can't recall exactly).
Moving the fade back seems to cancel out some of the fake sounding effects, and reduced some of the phasing issues, while also having the benefit of almost completely eliminating the sibilance for any tracks that I can't get in 192/24 (which might be redundant), but there's no rule against having too many bits...

I'm going to have a conversation with the SM at my dealer and see if I can't get a meeting with a regional person to escalate some of these sound system issues.
I'm still seriously annoyed at how they've kneecapped the system with year 2000 features...

Example:
8000 song limit
NO playlist support except with BT, AA or CarPlay.
The playlist issue is bad because if you copy playlist songs into playlist folders, there may be duplicate songs.
I have 30-40 playlists, resulting in 1K+ (not kidding, the playlists are system generated) duplicates.
So, my 2TB USB drive, which I used to have my entire library on, with playlists, in my Audi, is now ~25% full.

Rant off...

If playing 5.1/7.1 and the GV70 Lexicon system can handle the transfer, then the center channel might be of some value. That said, in a car cabin, trying to set up the center channel drivers to match L/R is already tough enough, as I mentioned above. Add on top of that, the fact that I've yet to see a car mfr able to fire center channel speakers in any other direction, other than up and bouncing off the windshield glass. Not only does that add coloration to the center channel, it also makes for horrible path length control, relative to L/R. Car audio is already challenging enough with the listening position being offset, bouncing off the glass introduces all sorts of phase errors that are next to impossible to correct... even digitally. I don't doubt that might also be contributing to your sibilation problem, with some of the higher frequencies coming out of the CC canceling out the same coming out of the L/R, causing peaks and troughs in the frequency response.

I think you are almost better off trying to ixnay the CC all together, than attempting to correct the woes that are already there.

 

[drpraveencs]

One of the little thing I didn't realize until after purchasing the car is that the USB under the infotainment cluster is the only USB port in the car that can play music and it is the only USB port in the car that can activate CarPlay or Android Auto. A few questions for those of you that play music off your USB drive. Have any of you tried a USB hub/splitter so you can use a USB drive for music and USB cable for maps (or other functions) via CarPlay/Android Auto at the same time? I realize most people are going to say - why don't you just play your music off your phone instead of USB? I understand that is a logical response. However, with the Lexicon sound system, the difference in sound between high quality song files off the USB vs. through iTunes or the phone or other service is pretty huge. So...until i bite the bullet or give up trying, has anyone had any luck using a USB hub/splitter to use both simultaneously? What hub did you use? Secondly, for anyone that plays music via USB, have you noticed any differences in speed or load time when the vehicle starts? Since I upgraded nav last week, the time it takes to start playing music from the USB is about 10-15 seconds, whereas it previously was fairly quick. If you're not experiencing this, what size and speed USB flash drive are you using? Before I go buy a different one, wanted to see if anyone had any perspective. Thanks!

I just tried the USB splitter - It doesn't work-Can't play two USB devices at the same time

 

[Playazenvy28]

I just tried the USB splitter - It doesn't work-Can't play two USB devices at the same time

I tried with the 3.2 usb splitter. No luck

 

[illusion58]

I found this module on You Tube.

It's a 4-in-1 dongle that gives you wireless Carplay or Android Auto, has a phone mirroring function and it's own usb connection to take a usb hard drive to play videos / music.

Wireless CarPlay＆Android Auto Adapter with Mirroring

The Wireless-Box Plus is a three-in-one plug and play multimedia box. Wireless Apple CarPlay adapter, Wireless Android Auto adapter and TV Cast all in one. Purchase The Wireless-Box Plus to cast streaming media to your car's screen.

carplaysmartbox.com

 

[AceRimmer]

Hey, so I think I got the DAP to output 192/24 to the headhunt, via Android Auto.
At least that's what the player says.
However, if I switch to wireless AA, the player only reports 48/16 and I cannot improve it.

Also, after playing around a bit last night, I both reduced the sibilation and dramatically improved the stereo imaging by obstructing the center channel altogether.
I would LOVE to permanently modify the center channel, however, I cannot yet figure out a way to do this so it doesn't look like sh_t. LOL.

Any ideas appreciated.

Any word on quieting the center channel? I bought my 2019 just a few days ago, have been sensitive to sibillance for a few years and its been my 1 major gripe w/ the car. When putting my sunshade up today, I noticed what you did, the sound is MUCH better when the center channel was covered.

Also, does the 8000 song limit also apply to phone storage or even just a good ol' iPod?

 

[AuditoGenesis]

Any word on quieting the center channel? I bought my 2019 just a few days ago, have been sensitive to sibillance for a few years and its been my 1 major gripe w/ the car. When putting my sunshade up today, I noticed what you did, the sound is MUCH better when the center channel was covered.

Also, does the 8000 song limit also apply to phone storage or even just a good ol' iPod?

First, it's funny that I used my sunshade for the first time in a while yesterday and noticed the improved sound, as well.
It was a dramatic improvement.
I'm now curious if the sibilance is a result of the center channel's reliance on windshield reflection.
In my research, there was mention of that causing problems (e.g., tweeters pointing up at the windshield causing issues).

I am still unable to figure out how to muffle that center channel in such a way as to retain the interior aesthetic.
My knee-jerk solution would be to remove the speaker grill and place a piece of black art paper inside the grill (so the speaker cannot contact it while moving).
I'm unable to perform the surgery to do this, however, so it's just a guess.

**Does anyone know how to remove the center channel speaker grill??****

As for the 8K song limit, if your phone is the source the limit does not appear to be an issue.