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Proposed transmission fluid change 2016 Genesis 3.8 AWD Sedan

jimbo1mcm

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I'm getting ready to do a drain and fill on my 2016. It has about 40,000 miles on it. Ive ordered the Hyundai SP-iV-RR for around $17 a quart. I've ordered a Motiv Pro 2 gallon pressure fill device. My plan is to have the fluid in the containers and the fluid in the tranny at the same temp. I will jack the car up, level it and drain the fluid. I will then measure it and put the exact same amount in the pressure fill device and add it to the fill hole on the driver side, which is just above the tranny pan. And that's it!!! I'll cycle through the gears but it shouldn't really be necessary. Comments and tips please!!
 
I wonder, why would you want to change it at 40,000 miles? something wrong with it? Personally, I wouldn't touch that at all or let the dealer deal with it. It's covered under 10/100000 warranty.
 
An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. If you review a lot of forum write ups, it shows that the fluid can become quite contaminated with suspended particles in as little as 30,000 miles. I plan on keeping the car a long time and this is a simple, cheap way to help it.
 
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The manual recommends 60,000 miles if you are "severe" conditions. And, I agree. An ounce of prevention... A transmission drain and re-fill is cheap insurance.
 
Jimbo, with all due respect you're working off of very dated paragigm. Very few cars today have requirements to change automatic transmission fluid AT ALL. Many of them use synthetic. Unlike gas engines, the transmissions have zero combustion byproducts to worry about. Since the advancement of lubricants and the change to servos and TCMs (vs. hydro-mechanical valve bodies) transmissions now last a very long time. The failures are typically going to be a servo. Good luck.
 
I'm getting ready to do a drain and fill on my 2016. It has about 40,000 miles on it. Ive ordered the Hyundai SP-iV-RR for around $17 a quart. I've ordered a Motiv Pro 2 gallon pressure fill device. My plan is to have the fluid in the containers and the fluid in the tranny at the same temp. I will jack the car up, level it and drain the fluid. I will then measure it and put the exact same amount in the pressure fill device and add it to the fill hole on the driver side, which is just above the tranny pan. And that's it!!! I'll cycle through the gears but it shouldn't really be necessary. Comments and tips please!!
I also will be changing my automatic fluid, but at 65k miles. Your method seem like it should work well. Drain the old fluid and replace with the exact same amount removed. I will also change my filter which is built into the pan later at about 120k miles if I decide to keep the car long term.
 
Jimbo, with all due respect you're working off of very dated paragigm. Very few cars today have requirements to change automatic transmission fluid AT ALL. Many of them use synthetic. Unlike gas engines, the transmissions have zero combustion byproducts to worry about. Since the advancement of lubricants and the change to servos and TCMs (vs. hydro-mechanical valve bodies) transmissions now last a very long time. The failures are typically going to be a servo. Good luck.
Well, Hyundai recommends changing the transmission fluid every 60k miles if your car is used in severe driving conditions like stop-and-go traffic and in hot weather climates that is about 90F or higher(not sure the exact temps). So if you are planning keeping the car for a long time, then changing the fluid will be good insurance if your actually drive your car in a city with a lot of traffic and in the warmer states.

However, if you are going to trade the car before or shortly after 100k miles then it would be a waste of time to change the fluid in my opinion.
 
Thanks for the opinions so far. I usually keep my cars well over 100,000.
 
Does you proposed methodology take into account the possibility that the transmission oil level might have already dropped below the recommended level? Why not follow the usual method of pumping in the new fluid until it just starts to overflow the upper opening?
 
Have you considered the possibility that your transmission fluid might be low in which case replacing it with the identical amount would leave it low? Why not fill until it starts to overflow which is the usual method?
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Have you considered the possibility that your transmission fluid might be low in which case replacing it with the identical amount would leave it low? Why not fill until it starts to overflow which is the usual method?
Good point. Sometimes car fluids are not filled correctly at the factory, sometimes they are over filled or under filled.
The best way to know for sure would be to check the fluid level by allowing the transmission fluid to reach the proper temperature(between120F-140F) after shifting from P-D twice then leaving it in N and letting the excess fluid drain out of the oil level check port in a thin steady stream and then close the port. This should be done on a level surface with the engine idling. Note: If no fluid drain out then you must add fluid until a thin stream drain out.

However, if the transmission was working fine before the fluid change then the level is most likely correct, but doing the proper check would be the best way to ensure the fluid level is perfect.
 
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I've detected no leaks of any kind so I am going with faith that they filled it correctly at the factory. I'll do the drain and fill twice within a few hundred miles. Keeping all my receipts for the OEM Hyundai fluid.
 
I purchased 8 quarts of Ravenol brand SP-IV RR fluid online. Ravenol is a German company that makes good transmission fluid which many BMW owners use. Seem like good stuff.
ATF Fluid - RAVENOL SP-IV RR Fluid

 
RE: Ravenol SP IV RR for 10 quarts delivered, it ends up being about $40 cheaper than the OEM Hyundai fluid. I looked up the general specs of the oil on the Ravenol website and they say it is made with a synthetic base plus additives. I am no expert here, but I think I would have liked to see a " fully synthetic" label on it. I know some engine oils say synthetic but it's a mix using regular oil also. I am pretty sure that the Ravenol would work well. I just don't want to mix the fluids now and I also have 10 quarts of the OEM fluid on hand.
 
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Just a thought.......
As an alternative to matching temperatures and volumes of old and new fluids: what would happen if you weighed the drained fluid and refilled with a matching amount.
Maybe a digital postal scale would be the right size.
 
RE: Ravenol SP IV RR for 10 quarts delivered, it ends up being about $40 cheaper than the OEM Hyundai fluid. I looked up the general specs of the oil on the Ravenol website and they say it is made with a synthetic base plus additives. I am no expert here, but I think I would have liked to see a " fully synthetic" label on it. I know some engine oils say synthetic but it's a mix using regular oil also. I am pretty sure that the Ravenol would work well. I just don't want to mix the fluids now and I also have 10 quarts of the OEM fluid on hand.
Ravenol SP IV RR fluid has "Vollsynthetisches" on the bottle that mean fully or whole synthetic in translation from German.
Mixing fluid should not be an issue if the fluids are the same type since both are compatible and have the same additives. But, I see your point about just using the OEM fluid. I have never had an issue with drain and filling with different brand transmission fluid that is the same specification as OEM fluids in my other cars.
Note: Synthetic base means that fluid is fully synthetic.
 
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So my dealer recommends that I get a transmission flush and I'm at 36k.
 
So my dealer recommends that I get a transmission flush and I'm at 36k.

How much will the dealer charge you ? and it will probably be about a 4 quart exchange unless he has a BG Flush machine which will exchange all the fluid and take about 10-12 quarts for the flush to fill it to about 10 quarts.
 
My dealer told me tranny flush at 60K. Sounds about right
 
What is the price difference between a "drain and replace" and a "flush"?
 
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