Rattle at Startup

[landtuna]

Well, its done. Brand new engine installed and waiting for me to pick-up! I will ask them what was wrong with the old engine when I stop at the dealer.

I've never broken in a new engine before, but with reading (Popular Mechanics) it says to drive moderately, but that it is a good idea to open the throttle pretty much in a higher gear to help burnish the rings against the cylinder walls. It also says to avoid constant speeds. Anything else I should be aware of?

I plan to change the oil after about 50 miles and then again after 1,000 to make sure I'm not running oil with metal shards in it.

Operate the vehicle at moderate speeds, no wide-open throttle and no long constant speeds (such as on the freeway). Overheating is the biggest enemy of new engines - even momentary.

We used to have a formula in racing that said you break it in as you will drive it but racing engines are not street engines and it would be a miracle for a racing engine to last 100,000 miles which is routine for street engines.

Changing oil so soon is unnecessary. There won't be metal shards in a newly assembled engine unless the quality control people are out to lunch. And, you have a filter to capture anything that slips through assembly. If it makes you feel better change it at 1,000 miles then observe the recommended change intervals.

 

[Potty_Pants]

Operate the vehicle at moderate speeds, no wide-open throttle and no long constant speeds (such as on the freeway). Overheating is the biggest enemy of new engines - even momentary.

We used to have a formula in racing that said you break it in as you will drive it but racing engines are not street engines and it would be a miracle for a racing engine to last 100,000 miles which is routine for street engines.

Changing oil so soon is unnecessary. There won't be metal shards in a newly assembled engine unless the quality control people are out to lunch. And, you have a filter to capture anything that slips through assembly. If it makes you feel better change it at 1,000 miles then observe the recommended change intervals.

+1

Dealer prob broke it in anyway...

but for you...

change oil at 1K as suggested.

vary the RPMs as much as possible. keep it under 3k. its tough for an auto but to row thru the gears up to 3k or so would best. do not use cruise control.

good luck !

ppp

 

[Astrick117]

Thanks! I row my own, so it should be easy to keep it under 3,000k assuming my right foot behaves until it's broken in

How long (distance) do I need to be cautious before I can start having a little fun?

 

[Astrick117]

Just got my Genny Coupe back this morning. Engine sounds really nice (first new engine ever). Have to do a cold start tomorrow, but I'm pretty confident it will be taken care of.

Unfortunately, they never did figure out the cause of the issue, but they are sending the old engine back to Hyundai Tech to run a "post-mortem".

Also, just a quick fun fact-

Full Cost of New Engine: $7,122
Parts (Engine, Manifold Gaskets, etc: $5,555
Labor: $1,167
Rental: $400 (drove it 1,723 miles in one month lol)
All Costs Covered Under Warranty: Priceless!

Thanks Everyone for Your Help!

 

[landtuna]

How long (distance) do I need to be cautious before I can start having a little fun?

1,000-1,500 miles but I wouldn't be mashing wide open throttle quite that soon. High heat buildup hurts new engines that have not "lapped" in. Quick bursts of throttle will not hurt.

 

[Jerryss]

Well, after a few weeks of having the Gen back from it's repairs at the dealer, all seems good - no noises upon startup, and running great. Seem it was timing chain related - Here's the parts list of replacements -

• 2 Timing Chain Assembly Guides
• 2 Tensioner Arm - Assembly Timing
• 2 CVVT Assemblies
• 2 CVVT Assemblies EXH
• 2 Chain - Timing
• 1 Chain- Oil Pump
• 1 Tensioner Assembly - Oil Pump Chain
• 1 Guide - Oil Pump
• Gaskets Covers, L & R
• Gaskets (Surge tank, L/R WaterPump,)
• misc...

So, the Gen was there 10 days, waiting for parts, mostly, and I had a loaner, at no cost to me whatsoever. $0 = Happy Owner.

** FYI - my engine has about 57,000 miles on it.

Jerry

 

[Jerryss]

Hey Guys -

Well, I tried to enclose the video I made for my dealer, but it wouldn't work, so here's the link. The video is of 4 cold start ups, taken 4 days in a row, so the dealer could see & hear the problem. The "rattling" occurs 1-2 seconds after start up, and only at the first cold startup. It only did it on it's first cold start up. If anyone has this problem, get it to the dealer.

Jerry

http://youtu.be/H_gg6p02mHg

 

[homeofstone]

Hey Guys -

Well, I tried to enclose the video I made for my dealer, but it wouldn't work, so here's the link. The video is of 4 cold start ups, taken 4 days in a row, so the dealer could see & hear the problem. The "rattling" occurs 1-2 seconds after start up, and only at the first cold startup. It only did it on it's first cold start up. If anyone has this problem, get it to the dealer.

Jerry

http://youtu.be/H_gg6p02mHg

Just wondering who has done oil changes and what kind of filters were used and did anyone check to see if the oil filters were properly installed?

 

[Jerryss]

All service performed at dealer, with whom we have a really great relationship, so I was pretty confident I would have no worries regarding warranty, etc. - and "they" did all the work, so...

 

[tvroom]

Guys....I have the same issue in my 2011 and it's back in the shop today for the 3rd time for clatter at start up. My question is....for those who ended up getting a good solid fix or replacement engine, did the new engine have the oil filter mounted at the bottom of the case???? Mine has the top mounted oil filter and I just can not help but wonder if that is a factor in this. I actually wanted to sell it and buy a 2013, but not until I'm sure I know the cause. Second question is: Did they move the filters to the bottom again on the 2013 model????

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[homeofstone]

Guys....I have the same issue in my 2011 and it's back in the shop today for the 3rd time for clatter at start up. My question is....for those who ended up getting a good solid fix or replacement engine, did the new engine have the oil filter mounted at the bottom of the case???? Mine has the top mounted oil filter and I just can not help but wonder if that is a factor in this. I actually wanted to sell it and buy a 2013, but not until I'm sure I know the cause. Second question is: Did they move the filters to the bottom again on the 2013 model????

I don't think the location of the oil filter is the cause. I have had BMWs, and still have two Mercedes with the oil filter on top. Granted, Hyundai is a different engine and I guess it is possible.

 

[tvroom]

OK, it has now been returned to me after about 6 days of having the cam chain tensioners, on both banks, replaced by Allen Samuals hyundai in Bedford Texas. Returned to me yesterday and they said it was fixed. It sat from 6 pm last night until 630 am this morning, and did exactly the same rattle on start up as before. NO DIFFERENCE! When I told them I was bringing it back, they told me to call hyundai warrantee grievence number. I will start that tomorrow. I am such a fan of this car....but this shit is getting old. If you have any ideas, please let me know. By the way, did I mention I bought a new 2013 V6 this week and it does not do it at all!

 

[homeofstone]

OK, it has now been returned to me after about 6 days of having the cam chain tensioners, on both banks, replaced by Allen Samuals hyundai in Bedford Texas. Returned to me yesterday and they said it was fixed. It sat from 6 pm last night until 630 am this morning, and did exactly the same rattle on start up as before. NO DIFFERENCE! When I told them I was bringing it back, they told me to call hyundai warrantee grievence number. I will start that tomorrow. I am such a fan of this car....but this shit is getting old. If you have any ideas, please let me know. By the way, did I mention I bought a new 2013 V6 this week and it does not do it at all!

Has the dealer performed the lifter maintenance service? Its in the manual. I know the first few years of production the V6 had solid lifters that may need adjustment as engine wears.

 

[Epiphany]

Hey all, have started to get some noise from my 09 3.8 with 65000km on it. Worse with the cold now, also getting a whistle on cold mornings (-10c) which I will get a video of when I can. Is this the rattle I'm reading about, or anything to be concerned about? Running Mobil1 full synthetic with OEM oil filter and which was changed out around 1200km ago. http://youtu.be/M7pV5CABq64

 

[homeofstone]

Hey all, have started to get some noise from my 09 3.8 with 65000km on it. Worse with the cold now, also getting a whistle on cold mornings (-10c) which I will get a video of when I can. Is this the rattle I'm reading about, or anything to be concerned about? Running Mobil1 full synthetic with OEM oil filter and which was changed out around 1200km ago. http://youtu.be/M7pV5CABq64

Have your engine valve lifters been checked/adjusted? I had a Mazda in 1982 that needed valves adjusted about every 15000 miles or it would click and rattle when started first thing in mornings.

 

[Epiphany]

Have your engine valve lifters been checked/adjusted? I had a Mazda in 1982 that needed valves adjusted about every 15000 miles or it would click and rattle when started first thing in mornings.

I do not know if they previous owner had them checked/inspected, but mileage wise I should be good for another 30000km. If they need adjusting is that something that would be covered via warranty?

 

[homeofstone]

I do not know if they previous owner had them checked/inspected, but mileage wise I should be good for another 30000km. If they need adjusting is that something that would be covered via warranty?

No it is a maintenance item that should be checked at least every 60,000 miles per the manual. I would have it checked if clicking or rattle is heard at start up.

 

[P4D]

Well, I've got a 2012 4.6 with 11k miles making the exact same noise as in the linked video. I'll take video of it over the next few days to document. Sad thing is, only 300 of the miles are mine, and the rest are the original owner. Any recommendations on how I should proceed with dealer?

Right now I'm waiting for winged center caps to come in for them to install. I have a couple of other issues. I have the surround sound unchecking issue, was assured the map software was up to date (it's not), and the drivers mirror doesn't recover if i set it to tilt down when backing up. Since I'm already heading in for these items, I want to document the engine noise too.

 

[P4D]

EDITED----

Here is a video of the start-up this AM (11/8). Not sure you can hear it well, will take another tomorrow. (Edit-hard to hear much on this, I had the phone mic pointed the wrong way and had too much background noise)

http://youtu.be/zeNFcDyiTtc

 

[P4D]

I took another video this AM (11/9). The rattle this morning was very short, much shorter that I usually hear. You can hear it quickly between :17 and :18. Then, at :26 a squeal starts that lasts until the car comes out of high idle at :37.

http://youtu.be/BDUy1Hwt-yI

There isn't anything after I back-out. The crashing sound as I pull back in is actually the garage door opening followed by my wife starting her car.

I am travelling the next two weeks, so the car will be in the garage. I will have my wife record a couple of start-ups since I asked her to run the motor so it doesn't just sit all that time.