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Recommending the best synthetic oil

I have a 2012, 4.6 Genesis. I am coming up to the 7,500 oil change. I had my first oil change at 1,700 miles. The Genesis service manual, page 8-4, recommended Quaker State oil. I would like some help figuring out what Synthetic oil is recommended by this Forum. I see Mobil 1 has several different oils. Mobil 1, Mobil 1 High Mileage, Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Enonomy, and Mobil 1 Extended Performance. And Which one 5W-20, 5W-30, etc?

I’d appreciate your helpin recommending the best synthetic oil, thanks in advance.

Marty
We could talk about this forever. If an oil meets certain SAE standards, thats what determines what it does. Find the cheapest Synthetic oil that meets the manufactures standards and buy it. If the manufacturer does not say to use Synthetic, dont use it. Its as simple as that. On some cars you could loose the warranty buy using a non recommended oil . Dealers have found out they can charge a lot more for Synthetic, thats the main reason they sell it. Synthetic was a really must use starting with some of the older high performance turbos ( that the manufacturer required), of course if your going to run the car for 100's of thousands of miles there is less wear in the engine. But I think most of us are not going to keep the car for 200+ thousand miles. If you go to Walmart and but Mobil 1 for a bargain price ---its a good thing. Thanks
 
We could talk about this forever. If an oil meets certain SAE standards, thats what determines what it does. Find the cheapest Synthetic oil that meets the manufactures standards and buy it. If the manufacturer does not say to use Synthetic, dont use it. Its as simple as that. On some cars you could loose the warranty buy using a non recommended oil . Dealers have found out they can charge a lot more for Synthetic, thats the main reason they sell it. Synthetic was a really must use starting with some of the older high performance turbos ( that the manufacturer required), of course if your going to run the car for 100's of thousands of miles there is less wear in the engine. But I think most of us are not going to keep the car for 200+ thousand miles. If you go to Walmart and but Mobil 1 for a bargain price ---its a good thing. Thanks
I agree with some of what you say, but not all of it. Manufacturer recommendation of synthetic oil is a tricky subject. For more and more luxury cars, synthetic is being recommended (or even required) and I don't just mean super-cars. A luxury car buyer is not going to be put off by the extra cost of synthetic oil and there is no question about its benefits.

For mainstream cars, there has been a reluctance by manufacturers to recommend synthetic because they know that in a sales situation, competitors are going to play up the extra cost of synthetic oil change if they require it. However, some manufacturers like Toyota and Honda have now taken the plunge and require synthetic on most of their cars. I say "require," but it a bit more complicated than that. In order to avoid the stigma of trying to sell a car that costs more to maintain than the competition, they just say you must use 0W-20 motor oil. The trick is that there is no conventional 0W-20 motor oil, only synthetic.

Hyundai has traditionally appealed to very cost conscious auto buyers, those who could not afford the equivalent Toyota or Honda (yes, that is changing), so they have not made the leap to require synthetic yet. But if you keep you car for awhile, there is no question that synthetic motor is better for your engine than conventional oil. No question at all. Many Hyundai dealers in my area use synthetic blend oil (half conventional and half synthetic) for standard oil changes (unless customer upgrades to synthetic oil). As car engines move to Direct Injection and Turbo, the use of synthetic is even more important.

Like you say, the cost of synthetics at Walmart is a nit compared to conventional oil. Unfortunately, many service organizations charge outrageous prices for a synthetic oil change. I am fortunate in that I can do my own oil changes, not just for the price savings, but to also make sure it gets done right.
 
Resurrecting this thread. Looks like Walmart started carrying Pennzoil Ultra again.
I haven't stopped by my local store but it says it's in stock.
If you can get it, you might want to stock up. Pennzoil is no longer marketing Ultra in the US, which was probably just a variation of Shell Ultra manufactured in Europe and imported to the US. I checked the Pennzoil website, and the only synthetics mentioned now are the new Pennzoil Platinum with PurePlus technology (made from natural gas), and Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. These are group III synthetics, albeit hydro-cracked natural gas instead of hydro-cracked mineral oil. The original Shell/Pennzoil Ultra appears (like Mobil 1) to have at least some group IV PAO.

Every time an oil company comes out with a premium synthetic in the US market (BP/Castrol, Shell/Pennzoil) the ExxonMobil marketing machine kills them off by lowering Mobil 1 prices a few dollars per 5-quart jug at Walmart.
 
I agree with some of what you say, but not all of it. Manufacturer recommendation of synthetic oil is a tricky subject. For more and more luxury cars, synthetic is being recommended (or even required) and I don't just mean super-cars. A luxury car buyer is not going to be put off by the extra cost of synthetic oil and there is no question about its benefits.

For mainstream cars, there has been a reluctance by manufacturers to recommend synthetic because they know that in a sales situation, competitors are going to play up the extra cost of synthetic oil change if they require it. However, some manufacturers like Toyota and Honda have now taken the plunge and require synthetic on most of their cars. I say "require," but it a bit more complicated than that. In order to avoid the stigma of trying to sell a car that costs more to maintain than the competition, they just say you must use 0W-20 motor oil. The trick is that there is no conventional 0W-20 motor oil, only synthetic.

Hyundai has traditionally appealed to very cost conscious auto buyers, those who could not afford the equivalent Toyota or Honda (yes, that is changing), so they have not made the leap to require synthetic yet. But if you keep you car for awhile, there is no question that synthetic motor is better for your engine than conventional oil. No question at all. Many Hyundai dealers in my area use synthetic blend oil (half conventional and half synthetic) for standard oil changes (unless customer upgrades to synthetic oil). As car engines move to Direct Injection and Turbo, the use of synthetic is even more important.

Like you say, the cost of synthetics at Walmart is a nit compared to conventional oil. Unfortunately, many service organizations charge outrageous prices for a synthetic oil change. I am fortunate in that I can do my own oil changes, not just for the price savings, but to also make sure it gets done right.
So you really do agree with me, dealers use synthetic oil to make more money. The other thing , you never really know what the dealer is putting in your car. You can bet they are buying the cheapest oil that meets the required standards. You pay for premium synthetic , so does it come out of drum A,B,or C. Or a mixture there of. Dealers here in Florida keep trying to raise the price of oil changes and they say ---so many inspections are being done--- Ive watched the dealer close, they can change the oil in about 15 minutes, they spend about another 5 minutes checking things that they can make a lot of money on--- tires, battery, inside and outside air filters. Then the car sits for a few minutes .They do not check for say loose suspension pieces , excess play or wear in various inside and outside components. If there is a technical bulletins ,a lot of dealers will not let you know--- unless you tell them. Its all about money . There are some good dealers out there , but they are hard to find. Also a lot of synthetic oils are good for 15k miles or more, but the requirement is the oil is drained soon before that.Synthetic oil is good , but very abused cost wise by many dealers.
 
I don't trust dealer or quickie lube shops to do anything right.
Unless it's a warranty issue I do all the wrenching myself (and keep all receipts)
 
So you really do agree with me, dealers use synthetic oil to make more money.
Note sure what you mean by that. The whole purpose of a buying a dealership and running it is to make money (especially since the initial investment required is in the millions). They use conventional oil to make money also.

The other thing , you never really know what the dealer is putting in your car. You can bet they are buying the cheapest oil that meets the required standards. You pay for premium synthetic , so does it come out of drum A,B,or C. Or a mixture there of. Dealers here in Florida keep trying to raise the price of oil changes and they say ---so many inspections are being done--- Ive watched the dealer close, they can change the oil in about 15 minutes, they spend about another 5 minutes checking things that they can make a lot of money on--- tires, battery, inside and outside air filters. Then the car sits for a few minutes .They do not check for say loose suspension pieces , excess play or wear in various inside and outside components. If there is a technical bulletins ,a lot of dealers will not let you know--- unless you tell them. Its all about money . There are some good dealers out there , but they are hard to find. Also a lot of synthetic oils are good for 15k miles or more, but the requirement is the oil is drained soon before that.Synthetic oil is good , but very abused cost wise by many dealers.
I agree with this part. The one time I had the oil changed by a Hyundai dealer on my Genesis, they f'ed it up, and I changed it again when I got home because I don't think they used synthetic like I asked them to. I have done all the other oil changes myself.

I have also seen independent shops reuse Mobil 1 containers where the cap seal was already broken before they unscrewed the cap, so I assume that the containers didn't actually contain Mobil 1. These same shops didn't throw the empty Mobil 1 containers away when they were done pouring in the oil (since it was obvious they were going to refill them again with something else).

I think most dealers are very good about mandatory TSB's, but they are not all mandatory (which is determined by HMA, not the dealer). Dealers are not supposed to implement all TSB's unless a customer complains and they can duplicate the problem (assuming it is not a mandatory TSB).
 
Not every dealer is the same, when I started working for Hyundai about 2 years ago. I started in the quick lube department. All I did was oil changes tires rotations and any other service recommended. But we have Valvoline oil along with their transmission fluid and all our flush services and AC and fuel. When customer asked for syntactic oil they select which oil they wanted. We had many customer who would bring their own mobile 1 and plenty of owners who wanted to watch us add their oil. I always took this very serious like if it was my own car. Just like the whole thing with drain n fill and a flush, two complete different things same concept. I don't know how other dealers are and I can't tell you but in my experience dealer is more professional then any other personal shops.

Customer can easily request to watch the tech poor their oil into their vehicle or watch them complete their service, we have no issues with that.
 
Customer can easily request to watch the tech poor their oil into their vehicle or watch them complete their service, we have no issues with that.
That sounds good, but many dealers are not set up to allow customers to watch.
 
Not every dealer is the same, when I started working for Hyundai about 2 years ago. I started in the quick lube department. All I did was oil changes tires rotations and any other service recommended. But we have Valvoline oil along with their transmission fluid and all our flush services and AC and fuel. When customer asked for syntactic oil they select which oil they wanted. We had many customer who would bring their own mobile 1 and plenty of owners who wanted to watch us add their oil. I always took this very serious like if it was my own car. Just like the whole thing with drain n fill and a flush, two complete different things same concept. I don't know how other dealers are and I can't tell you but in my experience dealer is more professional then any other personal shops.

Customer can easily request to watch the tech poor their oil into their vehicle or watch them complete their service, we have no issues with that.
I would go to your shop. Its really too bad it comes to watching someone put in oil, but thats how dishonest some shops are.
 
I don't trust dealer or quickie lube shops to do anything right.
Unless it's a warranty issue I do all the wrenching myself (and keep all receipts)
Just curious, do you have a pump devise to suck out the oil or do the actual drain. Some cars have panels under the car , for air flow . It takes 1/2 an hour just to get to the drain plug and some of the panel screws strip very easy---- just wondering. Thanks
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I would go to your shop. Its really too bad it comes to watching someone put in oil, but thats how dishonest some shops are.
It's not just dishonesty, but also mistakes. I instructed my Hyundai dealer to use the oil in the trunk (Mobil 1). I asked the service writer how the tech would know to use the oil I had placed in the trunk, and he showed me that it was written on the work order. Also, before I left home, I put two identical labels on the oil filler cap on each side of the filler cap flange, that both said "oil in trunk."

When I looked at the invoice at the cashier, they charged me for labor and for 6 quarts of conventional oil, which they obviously should not have done if I supplied Mobil 1 for them to use. I think many of the techs at my dealer are illegal aliens and don't speak or read English well. The cashier went into the shop and came out 10 minutes later and said they would take the charge for the oil off the invoice. I am not sure what they did to my car, but when I got home, they left a full one quart bottle in my trunk unopened, and the 5-quart jug was gone, and the oil level was more than 1 quart over the fill level. I immediately changed the oil myself using Mobil 1. My V6 takes 5.5 quarts of oil for drain and refill.
 
Just curious, do you have a pump devise to suck out the oil or do the actual drain. Some cars have panels under the car , for air flow . It takes 1/2 an hour just to get to the drain plug and some of the panel screws strip very easy---- just wondering. Thanks
I am not NSXNEXT, but I use a fluid evacuator on my Genesis V6 (pre-2012 non-GDI). Doesn't work on all engines, but works fine on this one. The ones with hand pumps are a waste of money IMO, and my fluid evacuator works with any air compressor (not included with evacuator). My oil filter is also accessible on the top of the engine bay.

http://www.genesisowners.com/hyundai-genesis-forum/showpost.php?p=149036&postcount=6
 
Just curious, do you have a pump devise to suck out the oil or do the actual drain. Some cars have panels under the car , for air flow . It takes 1/2 an hour just to get to the drain plug and some of the panel screws strip very easy---- just wondering. Thanks

As a matter of fact I do have one. It connects to my compressor. I have used it on previous cars but felt it didn't remove all of the oil from the pan.

My 2013 is approx 17 months old and hasn't even hit 4k miles but I've already done one oil change through the drain plug. And yes it is quite a chore to remove all the bolts to get the lower panel off.

However I believe that is the only way to access the oil filter on the 5.0L. I'm not with car right now but I don't think you can access the oil filter any other way.
 
My dealer is a little smaller than some, but they don't like having you in the shop of course. The first time I went in for an oil change, I told the service writer that I wanted to be there when the oil was drained as I wanted a sample for testing. He said OK. Another tried to chase me out when they had the car on the hoist, but the first guy told him it was alright.

Once there, I just hung out and stayed out of the techs way------------and made sure they used the Mobil 1 I had brought along. The techs were interested in the RSpec as I think it is the only one they have out and didn't seem to mind my presence.

Did the same thing at the 7500 mile change and will be pulling a sample again at 15000. One of the things one has to do to get a good sample is to let the oil run out for a couple of seconds before catching some. Yes, that gets things a little oily. but there are rags at the oil changing site.
 
As a matter of fact I do have one. It connects to my compressor. I have used it on previous cars but felt it didn't remove all of the oil from the pan.
That's what I thought at first, but I had to move the tube around a few times to make sure the end was at the bottom of drain pan. Once I learned how to do that, it removes more oil by volume than opening drain plug on my Genesis 3.8 V6 (non-GDI). But it does depend on the engine.
 
My dealer is a little smaller than some, but they don't like having you in the shop of course.
There is a legitimate insurance liability issue if the customer is on the shop floor, and they don't usually build viewing areas for customers. At least at an oil change shop I can usually stand outside in front of the car and still see what is going on (where I live they rarely close the garage doors). Some dealers have built new oil change areas where you can watch, just like a small oil change shop.
 
That's what I thought at first, but I had to move the tube around a few times to make sure the end was at the bottom of drain pan. Once I learned how to do that, it removes more oil by volume than opening drain plug on my Genesis 3.8 V6 (non-GDI). But it does depend on the engine.

I may try that on my next oil change. At my rate that won't be till March of next year. :)
 
I may try that on my next oil change. At my rate that won't be till March of next year. :)
One thing I found was that the Mityvac plastic tube (used to suck out the oil from the dipstick well) is coiled too much when it is new and it has trouble going to the bottom of the oil pan because of that. But when you put the tube into a hot engine, and force it down (jerking up and down) then it eventually straightens out enough (by the heat of the engine) that it goes in easier in subsequent oil changes.
 
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Summer in DFW is upon us (means HOT!!!).
I've been using Mobil1 5w20 synthetic but happen to have an extra case of 10w30 also synthetic so I need to use it up sometime.
The car is only 21k miles so far.
Is the 10w30 good to use?
 
I don't see why not.

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