Replacing Stock Amber Halogen Turn Signal/DRL Bulb with LED Switchback in 2015 Sedan 5.0

[Sarge101st]

So my driver's side DRL/turn signal bulb died and after a trip to Autozone today I realized these can be easily swapped for LED switchbacks. When purchasing replacement bulbs for this light you can buy the original 2057 halogen bulb but due to the fact that they operate as a DRL they'll burn out quickly. I did install 1 1157 LED bulb today as well as an original replacement 2057 bulb to test them out. Both work but as expected the 1157 LED draws such low power that the vehicle thinks it's dead and the hyperflash pace picks up, but at least we know they fit.

Option 1 for LED replacement is by amber LED or switchback (dual function white DRL and amber turn signal,) LED and install resistors to ensure that the vehicle recognizes a standard power draw and the turn signals flash at the standard speed. Without the resistors your vehicle will think the bulbs are dead and the hyperflash pace will kick in (more rapid pulsing,) as it's a natural function where vehicles can indicate to you there is a problem. The bulbs and resistors would be something like these:

https://www.amazon.com/iBrightstar-Switchback-Projector-Replacement-Daytime/dp/B07JC7233R/ref=sr_1_17?dchild=1&keywords=1157+led+bulb&qid=1595114699&sr=8-17

Amazon.com: iBrightstar 50W 6ohm Load Resistors - Fix LED Bulb Fast Hyper Flash Turn Signal Blink Error Code: Automotive

Buy iBrightstar 50W 6ohm Load Resistors - Fix LED Bulb Fast Hyper Flash Turn Signal Blink Error Code: Turn Signal Bulbs - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

This option is inexpensive but requires some wiring know how and more install time.

Option 2 is an all in one LED hybrid that includes built in resistors at the base of the bulb such as this option:

Amazon.com: LASFIT CANBUS Anti Hyper Flash 1157 2057 7528 Dual Color Switchback LED Amber Turn Signal Light Blinker Bulbs, White Daytime Running Parking Light, No Load Resistor Need, Unique Version (Pack of 2): Automotive

Buy LASFIT CANBUS Anti Hyper Flash 1157 2057 7528 Dual Color Switchback LED Amber Turn Signal Light Blinker Bulbs, White Daytime Running Parking Light, No Load Resistor Need, Unique Version (Pack of 2): Turn Signal Bulbs - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

This is the option that I'm going with instead. Bulbs should be here by Wednesday and I'll have them installed that day. If anyone wants to know how it goes let me know.

BTW the install is very easy no matter which option you choose even with the larger 5.0 engine. Removing the bay cover plate from the front is just removing about 12 cowl clips. I recommend a cowl clip removal tool as it makes this easy. Also if you need more cowl clips these are direct OEM replacments that can be had on Amazon. Amazon.com: Clipsandfasteners Inc 15 Cowl & Bumper Push-Type Clips For Hyundai 86155-2H100: Automotive. This is my second box of clips as these definitely break easy.

Once the plate is removed use a 12mm socket to loosen and remove the two cross braces that cover the air intake boxes. Use a 10mm socket to remove the screws holding the air intake boxes in place. You can use the 10mm socket again or a philips screwdriver to loosen the hose clam connecting the air intake box to the hose leading to the engine. That hose clamp can also be replaced if needed with a 3-4" diameter hose clamp from your local hardware store.

Once those air intake boxes are out of the way it's as simple as unscrewing the moisture plates from the housings, unscrewing the bulb harness from the housing, pressing in and unscrewing the bulb from the harness/outlet, and replacing with new bulb. Reverse previous steps when done to put everything back together.

After doing this today I think I'll look into replacing the HID's with new Morimoto's or something high end. Anyone attempted this yet on the Gen2 with a 5.0?

 

[Genesis5]

My bulb just went out today and I replaced them about a year ago. How did these work for you?

 

[Sarge101st]

They are not operating as switchbacks at this time. They are a great and bright DRL/turn signal though. Amber is only color I get. They are also perfect with the resistors built in BTW. No hyper flash at all

 

[Genesis5]

Sarge101st - Thanks for the quick reply. Great to hear they work, I'll be placing an order right now.

 

[carguy75]

So my driver's side DRL/turn signal bulb died and after a trip to Autozone today I realized these can be easily swapped for LED switchbacks. When purchasing replacement bulbs for this light you can buy the original 2057 halogen bulb but due to the fact that they operate as a DRL they'll burn out quickly. I did install 1 1157 LED bulb today as well as an original replacement 2057 bulb to test them out. Both work but as expected the 1157 LED draws such low power that the vehicle thinks it's dead and the hyperflash pace picks up, but at least we know they fit.

Option 1 for LED replacement is by amber LED or switchback (dual function white DRL and amber turn signal,) LED and install resistors to ensure that the vehicle recognizes a standard power draw and the turn signals flash at the standard speed. Without the resistors your vehicle will think the bulbs are dead and the hyperflash pace will kick in (more rapid pulsing,) as it's a natural function where vehicles can indicate to you there is a problem. The bulbs and resistors would be something like these:

http://[URL][URL][URL][URL]https://...keywords=1157+led+bulb&qid=1595114699&sr=8-17

[/URL][/URL][/URL][/URL]

http://[URL][URL][URL][URL]https://...dp/B07HF47RV9/ref=psdc_15730301_t3_B07JC7233R

[/URL][/URL][/URL][/URL]

This option is inexpensive but requires some wiring know how and more install time.

Option 2 is an all in one LED hybrid that includes built in resistors at the base of the bulb such as this option:

http://[URL][URL][URL][URL]https://...=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[/URL][/URL][/URL][/URL]

This is the option that I'm going with instead. Bulbs should be here by Wednesday and I'll have them installed that day. If anyone wants to know how it goes let me know.

BTW the install is very easy no matter which option you choose even with the larger 5.0 engine. Removing the bay cover plate from the front is just removing about 12 cowl clips. I recommend a cowl clip removal tool as it makes this easy. Also if you need more cowl clips these are direct OEM replacments that can be had on Amazon. Amazon.com: Clipsandfasteners Inc 15 Cowl & Bumper Push-Type Clips For Hyundai 86155-2H100: Automotive. This is my second box of clips as these definitely break easy.

Once the plate is removed use a 12mm socket to loosen and remove the two cross braces that cover the air intake boxes. Use a 10mm socket to remove the screws holding the air intake boxes in place. You can use the 10mm socket again or a philips screwdriver to loosen the hose clam connecting the air intake box to the hose leading to the engine. That hose clamp can also be replaced if needed with a 3-4" diameter hose clamp from your local hardware store.

Once those air intake boxes are out of the way it's as simple as unscrewing the moisture plates from the housings, unscrewing the bulb harness from the housing, pressing in and unscrewing the bulb from the harness/outlet, and replacing with new bulb. Reverse previous steps when done to put everything back together.

After doing this today I think I'll look into replacing the HID's with new Morimoto's or something high end. Anyone attempted this yet on the Gen2 with a 5.0?

The best halogen bulb to buy would be an amber" 2057NALL "bulb. The LL(long life) version lasts longer than the standard 2057NA signal bulb. I swapped my stock 2057 bulbs for amber Phillips 2057LL bulbs about two years ago and the bulbs still work.

I wanted to change my HID bulbs as well, but the headlight housings has to be removed due to limited space to access the HID bulbs because of the chassis shape that curves behind the headlights closer to the HID opening. The DRL/signal lights are easy to access without removing the headlights. However, it maybe possible for someone to wiggle the HID bulbs in and out without removing the headlights. I will not go that route because it may damage the new HID bulbs going in.

Great breakdown on hyper-flashing and DRL bulb install by the way. Sums it up well.

 

[Genesis5]

Installed today and was really easy. Unfortunately the bulbs only worked in the passenger side. Tried both in the drivers side with no luck. Put a halogen bulb in the drivers side and worked like it's supposed to. It will get me through state inspection but going to look for a real fix.

 

[Sarge101st]

That sucks. May be a bad bulb? I also have an issue but I noticed it before I installed the bulb. I think one of the wires going to the housing is loose as the bulb will run for a while but then flicker and go out. Having my local dealership check that out this week. Sorry those bulbs didn't work out for you.

 

[Andyj]

You may need to switch the wires in the socket due to polarity. There are several threads here on this.

 

[surprisinguy]

There are several threads here on this.

Yes, quite a few - I've posted LED bulb replacement choices and a how-to on swapping the pins in the bulb sockets. Resistors are not needed -As far as I know switchbacks will not ever work

 

[Sarge101st]

My issue with my vehicle is definitely socket specific on the driver's side. It was having an issue even before I tried the faultless LED's. The original non LED bulb started to go out and when I replaced with the new non LED bulb it was still having issues. Flickering depending on pressure and seating within the socket. I think I read somewhere on these forums and maybe within a thread that u/suprisinguy commented in that someone had their sockets replaced under warranty as Hyundai had known of a common issue with the sockets on multiple vehicles. It sucks that the switchback functionality of the bulb I bought didn't work but they are super bright DRL/turn signals. It got me on a kick to look at replacing all other non LED bulbs in the vehicle with LED options but the more I look the less I'm finding in terms of actual bulbs to replace. It looks like ever bulb on the back of my car with the exception of the license plate lights are LEDs so no replacing those. I wanted to get super bright LED reverse lights but after closer inspection it can tell they are part of an LED strip and not a bulb.

I think I'll consider an HID switch out to new Morimoto's or something comparable since my vehicle is a 2015 and I'm betting the HID bulbs are the originals so they've probably lost a bit of their brightness at this point.

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[Sarge101st]

I need to apologize. Whomever read this post and followed by trying out the Lasfit LED switchbacks I'm sorry. I returned my bulbs yesterday as I began to notice an issue with their performance specifically after about 45 to 60 minutes of continuous use. In my time with the bulb I noticed they worked perfectly on cold startup but when leaving DRL's on during the day and after about 45 to 60 minutes of continuous usage they would begin to flicker and cause hyper flashing issues until they eventually shut off. After considering the problem to be socket specific I had it checked at the dealership but they weren't able to reproduce the issue. I gave up on the idea of LED's and instead went with the PIAA HID color bulbs that another user recommended a while back. Link below. These are working perfectly but are not LED of course.

Amazon.com: Piaa 19228 1157 Xtreme White Miniature Bulb - 2 Piece: Automotive

Buy Piaa 19228 1157 Xtreme White Miniature Bulb - 2 Piece: Bulbs - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

With all this being said has anyone had great luck with an LED bulb and resistor combo that is a good color match for our HID's and LED fog's/surrounds?

Also I'm dropping the bumper tomorrow and installing the Osram Xenarc Night Breaker Laser bulbs. I'll post before and after photos if anyone is interested.

 

[The White Shadow]

So my driver's side DRL/turn signal bulb died and after a trip to Autozone today I realized these can be easily swapped for LED switchbacks. When purchasing replacement bulbs for this light you can buy the original 2057 halogen bulb but due to the fact that they operate as a DRL they'll burn out quickly. I did install 1 1157 LED bulb today as well as an original replacement 2057 bulb to test them out. Both work but as expected the 1157 LED draws such low power that the vehicle thinks it's dead and the hyperflash pace picks up, but at least we know they fit.

Option 1 for LED replacement is by amber LED or switchback (dual function white DRL and amber turn signal,) LED and install resistors to ensure that the vehicle recognizes a standard power draw and the turn signals flash at the standard speed. Without the resistors your vehicle will think the bulbs are dead and the hyperflash pace will kick in (more rapid pulsing,) as it's a natural function where vehicles can indicate to you there is a problem. The bulbs and resistors would be something like these:

https://www.amazon.com/iBrightstar-Switchback-Projector-Replacement-Daytime/dp/B07JC7233R/ref=sr_1_17?dchild=1&keywords=1157+led+bulb&qid=1595114699&sr=8-17

Amazon.com: iBrightstar 50W 6ohm Load Resistors - Fix LED Bulb Fast Hyper Flash Turn Signal Blink Error Code: Automotive

Buy iBrightstar 50W 6ohm Load Resistors - Fix LED Bulb Fast Hyper Flash Turn Signal Blink Error Code: Turn Signal Bulbs - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

This option is inexpensive but requires some wiring know how and more install time.

Option 2 is an all in one LED hybrid that includes built in resistors at the base of the bulb such as this option:

Amazon.com: LASFIT CANBUS Anti Hyper Flash 1157 2057 7528 Dual Color Switchback LED Amber Turn Signal Light Blinker Bulbs, White Daytime Running Parking Light, No Load Resistor Need, Unique Version (Pack of 2): Automotive

Buy LASFIT CANBUS Anti Hyper Flash 1157 2057 7528 Dual Color Switchback LED Amber Turn Signal Light Blinker Bulbs, White Daytime Running Parking Light, No Load Resistor Need, Unique Version (Pack of 2): Turn Signal Bulbs - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

This is the option that I'm going with instead. Bulbs should be here by Wednesday and I'll have them installed that day. If anyone wants to know how it goes let me know.

BTW the install is very easy no matter which option you choose even with the larger 5.0 engine. Removing the bay cover plate from the front is just removing about 12 cowl clips. I recommend a cowl clip removal tool as it makes this easy. Also if you need more cowl clips these are direct OEM replacments that can be had on Amazon. Amazon.com: Clipsandfasteners Inc 15 Cowl & Bumper Push-Type Clips For Hyundai 86155-2H100: Automotive. This is my second box of clips as these definitely break easy.

Once the plate is removed use a 12mm socket to loosen and remove the two cross braces that cover the air intake boxes. Use a 10mm socket to remove the screws holding the air intake boxes in place. You can use the 10mm socket again or a philips screwdriver to loosen the hose clam connecting the air intake box to the hose leading to the engine. That hose clamp can also be replaced if needed with a 3-4" diameter hose clamp from your local hardware store.

Once those air intake boxes are out of the way it's as simple as unscrewing the moisture plates from the housings, unscrewing the bulb harness from the housing, pressing in and unscrewing the bulb from the harness/outlet, and replacing with new bulb. Reverse previous steps when done to put everything back together.

After doing this today I think I'll look into replacing the HID's with new Morimoto's or something high end. Anyone attempted this yet on the Gen2 with a 5.0?

So my driver side bulb went out on my 2015 5.0 and I'm looking to do the LED upgrade. This was a huge help in making the decision of what to go with and how to do it. Since the Switchback doesn't seem to work, I'm just going to go with these
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SH1MXZD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_zFF2Fb3RZCB0F

I'll be trying them out first without the resistors because the voltage and watts seem to be very close to the incandescent bulbs, but I'm getting 2 6ohm resistors just in case. I hope this works, because with 2 air boxes to remove, I certainly don't want to be doing it again. I'll take pics and post them as soon as I can.

 

[surprisinguy]

They'll prob do well... as DRLs you'll just have to see if they can stand the heat.

 

[2015g5.0]

So my driver's side DRL/turn signal bulb died and after a trip to Autozone today I realized these can be easily swapped for LED switchbacks. When purchasing replacement bulbs for this light you can buy the original 2057 halogen bulb but due to the fact that they operate as a DRL they'll burn out quickly. I did install 1 1157 LED bulb today as well as an original replacement 2057 bulb to test them out. Both work but as expected the 1157 LED draws such low power that the vehicle thinks it's dead and the hyperflash pace picks up, but at least we know they fit.

Option 1 for LED replacement is by amber LED or switchback (dual function white DRL and amber turn signal,) LED and install resistors to ensure that the vehicle recognizes a standard power draw and the turn signals flash at the standard speed. Without the resistors your vehicle will think the bulbs are dead and the hyperflash pace will kick in (more rapid pulsing,) as it's a natural function where vehicles can indicate to you there is a problem. The bulbs and resistors would be something like these:

https://www.amazon.com/iBrightstar-Switchback-Projector-Replacement-Daytime/dp/B07JC7233R/ref=sr_1_17?dchild=1&keywords=1157+led+bulb&qid=1595114699&sr=8-17

Amazon.com: iBrightstar 50W 6ohm Load Resistors - Fix LED Bulb Fast Hyper Flash Turn Signal Blink Error Code: Automotive

Buy iBrightstar 50W 6ohm Load Resistors - Fix LED Bulb Fast Hyper Flash Turn Signal Blink Error Code: Turn Signal Bulbs - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

This option is inexpensive but requires some wiring know how and more install time.

Option 2 is an all in one LED hybrid that includes built in resistors at the base of the bulb such as this option:

Amazon.com: LASFIT CANBUS Anti Hyper Flash 1157 2057 7528 Dual Color Switchback LED Amber Turn Signal Light Blinker Bulbs, White Daytime Running Parking Light, No Load Resistor Need, Unique Version (Pack of 2): Automotive

Buy LASFIT CANBUS Anti Hyper Flash 1157 2057 7528 Dual Color Switchback LED Amber Turn Signal Light Blinker Bulbs, White Daytime Running Parking Light, No Load Resistor Need, Unique Version (Pack of 2): Turn Signal Bulbs - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

This is the option that I'm going with instead. Bulbs should be here by Wednesday and I'll have them installed that day. If anyone wants to know how it goes let me know.

BTW the install is very easy no matter which option you choose even with the larger 5.0 engine. Removing the bay cover plate from the front is just removing about 12 cowl clips. I recommend a cowl clip removal tool as it makes this easy. Also if you need more cowl clips these are direct OEM replacments that can be had on Amazon. Amazon.com: Clipsandfasteners Inc 15 Cowl & Bumper Push-Type Clips For Hyundai 86155-2H100: Automotive. This is my second box of clips as these definitely break easy.

Once the plate is removed use a 12mm socket to loosen and remove the two cross braces that cover the air intake boxes. Use a 10mm socket to remove the screws holding the air intake boxes in place. You can use the 10mm socket again or a philips screwdriver to loosen the hose clam connecting the air intake box to the hose leading to the engine. That hose clamp can also be replaced if needed with a 3-4" diameter hose clamp from your local hardware store.

Once those air intake boxes are out of the way it's as simple as unscrewing the moisture plates from the housings, unscrewing the bulb harness from the housing, pressing in and unscrewing the bulb from the harness/outlet, and replacing with new bulb. Reverse previous steps when done to put everything back together.

After doing this today I think I'll look into replacing the HID's with new Morimoto's or something high end. Anyone attempted this yet on the Gen2 with a 5.0?

Do you have an update and photos? Thanks!

 

[The White Shadow]

Do you have an update and photos? Thanks!

Just ordered them today and I should have everything by Sunday. Probably try to get them done Monday or Tuesday and I'll post then.

 

[The White Shadow]

Just ordered them today and I should have everything by Sunday. Probably try to get them done Monday or Tuesday and I'll post then.

Just got the items in the mail today. I'm hoping the weather is good tomorrow so I can tackle the upgrade.

 

[The White Shadow]

Sorry it's taken so long to get back on this upgrade, but I've been busy with work and just got around to getting it done today. First off, let me say that it was way easier than I thought it would be. That should have been a clue that I was going to run into trouble. LMAO Actually, it took me about 5 minutes to take everything apart. Once I did, I pulled out the old bulb and inserted the LED. And...nothing. I thought I could just flip the LED and it would work, but the notches in the base would only allow me to insert the LED one way. I remembered about the wiring polarity and figured I'd just switch the wires. I've got big hands and couldn't get the clip to unlatch inside the housing. I imagine if I had smaller hands I probably could have done it, but it was a no go. So I opted to go the route I really didn't want to, and I clipped the wires mid-way. I stripped the wires and reconnected them backwards. I tried the LED and it worked. And that was with no resistor. So I used some electrical tape, covered the wires, and put everything back. So far, so good. At this point I think the LEDs are so close to the voltage and amps of the original bulbs that a resistor isn't necessary. But I'll wait and see how it goes. If I need to go back in, it's really not that bad, so I'll do it then. I attached a few pics to show how it went. I used a 12mm to take off the braces and an 8mm to take off the air box. The front cover was actually really easy. I used a flat-tip to push in the center of the clips, and then they just popped right out when I lifted up on the cover.

 

[surprisinguy]

Glad you got it done... you have to have a fine (small) metal pin to pop the wiring pins out of the plugs. I had to use a filed down nail.

 

[2015g5.0]

Glad you got it done... you have to have a fine (small) metal pin to pop the wiring pins out of the plugs. I had to use a filed down nail.

When you say pop do you mean push?

 

[The White Shadow]

Glad you got it done... you have to have a fine (small) metal pin to pop the wiring pins out of the plugs. I had to use a filed down nail.

Glad you got it done... you have to have a fine (small) metal pin to pop the wiring pins out of the plugs. I had to use a filed down nail.

I couldn't even get my hand into the opening to undo the the white clip in the second to last photo. If I could have done that, I'm sure I would have been able to get the pins out. That would have been preferable. But big hands made it virtually impossible to get at it.