Signs that your battery is dying?

[Bill K]

Sounds like an internal short that caused the battery to fail quickly. This can happen at any time, and has nothing to do with batteries failing because of age. You can tell a battery is failing because of age when it starts to crank slower and slower over a few weeks. Most people buy new batteries when they still have much life in them.
.

 

[Ron]

You might check your owners manual. Mine states that the battery is a calcium based battery. A calcium based battery is still lead acid but the lead composition has calcium in it. I do not know much about these but am learning as I have been considering replacing the battery in our 09 3.8. From what I have read the voltage from the charging system for a calcium battery may different than for other types of batteries. Might check this out for yourself.

Ron

 

[OUsig]

I went to Autozone and said my battery was "bad" stock battery so about time. I have not noticed any electrical issues but I wanted to replace vs get stranded. I have used their AGM platinum batteries with great results so I hope this one lasts another 4+yrs. We have a 2007 Tahoe that eafs batteries alive and I have had that same platinum AGM for 3 years and it is rock solid.

Sorry for the random post to anyone who is annoyed with the old thread 😎

 

[kn5owa]

Some of the above posts indicate some confusion about battery testing.

Load testing is a perfectly valid and time honored way to test lead acid batteries. It very simply involves placing a fixed load on the battery for a fixed period of time and observing the voltage. I usually use a load of 200 amps. for 15 seconds. The voltage should stay at around 10 volts - or better. If the voltage varies up and down, or drops much below 10 volts, then the battery is shot.

Harborfreight sells a nice one with two large meters for $50. The handheld "cheese grater" testers impose a fixed load - typically 100 amps. - and are cheaper. Everybody should have one or the order. Since load testers necessarily measure voltage, then they can be used to check alternator output under no-load conditions. Look for about 14 volts - give or take.

Someone posted to the effect that load testers yield a measure of battery life. They categorically do not. It would be more accurate to say they indicate only the end of life - or close to it. One way of looking at it is to say that even if your pulse rate is fine today, tomorrow may be a different story. Sorry for the analogy.

Got a few thousand bucks to spend? You can buy battery testers that purport to predict remaining life. They measure things like battery impedance. I like new shop stuff - but that price tag is a little rich for me - even if I thought they actually worked.

Lastly, as a matter of course, I replace batteries every four years. I also carry one of the new compact lithium ion jump starters in each of my cars.

 

[dougmcp]

Some of the above posts indicate some confusion about battery testing.

Load testing is a perfectly valid and time honored way to test lead acid batteries. It very simply involves placing a fixed load on the battery for a fixed period of time and observing the voltage. I usually use a load of 200 amps. for 15 seconds. The voltage should stay at around 10 volts - or better. If the voltage varies up and down, or drops much below 10 volts, then the battery is shot.

Harborfreight sells a nice one with two large meters for $50. The handheld "cheese grater" testers impose a fixed load - typically 100 amps. - and are cheaper. Everybody should have one or the order. Since load testers necessarily measure voltage, then they can be used to check alternator output under no-load conditions. Look for about 14 volts - give or take.

Someone posted to the effect that load testers yield a measure of battery life. They categorically do not. It would be more accurate to say they indicate only the end of life - or close to it. One way of looking at it is to say that even if your pulse rate is fine today, tomorrow may be a different story. Sorry for the analogy.

Got a few thousand bucks to spend? You can buy battery testers that purport to predict remaining life. They measure things like battery impedance. I like new shop stuff - but that price tag is a little rich for me - even if I thought they actually worked.

Lastly, as a matter of course, I replace batteries every four years. I also carry one of the new compact lithium ion jump starters in each of my cars.

Couldn't agree more. I use a voltmeter to do the initial testing. A perfect charge on a battery is 12.73v, 80% is 12.5v and 50% is 12.1v. I leave the voltmeter attached and start the car if the voltage sags below 10v or so it's likely done for. I don't get my load tester out until I have done these first.
That being said I relate batteries to light bulbs, they could be fine one minute and have a bad cell the next. I've had batteries last 12 years and I've seen them crap out within a year with most of them attributed to a bad cell. I don't replace batteries until they start to indicate a problem but I'm more than aware of what to watch for plus I have AAA and Good Sam for any jump, flat tire or gas I may need.

 

[R-Spectable]

I'm due for a battery and am picking one up tomorrow. I am wondering if running the original battery,(2013), could mess with my DIS system. The screen went black this morning and was still out at lunch. I have no radio, backup screen, nada.
I'm going to Advance Auto in the am. I hope it helps. If not I'm scheduling a trip to the dealer.

 

[kn5owa]

If the battery is good enough to start the car, then I don't see how the instrumentation could be adversely affected. Also, as I believe somebody pointed out, with the engine running, the voltage at the battery terminals is pushed even higher to approx. 14 volts. So with the engine running, it would seem all should be ok.

I would have the battery load tested for informational purposes even if I were replacing it since you're having other strange probs.

 

[Jet]

All things considered, what battery would be the best of the best in a 2009 4.6 tech pack sedan?

 

[Mrjames]

All things considered, what battery would be the best of the best in a 2009 4.6 tech pack sedan?

So I have a 2012 Rspec. This morning I started the car as usual and went to turn on the seat heater a d rear defroster. The lights on both didn't work. Also heard a slight high pitch noise as well. On my 2010 4.6 I had a. Battery go bad while at the grocery store and tried to jump it from the front terminals with no luck. Called a tow truck and he jumped out of the cab with a jump box and I told him that isn't going to work. He popped the truck and jumped the car from the battery directly and it started right up. He also told me these cars are notorious for these things. Turns out my phone charger was the issue.. today the battery light turned on while leaving the driveway with those things I mentioned. So I backed up the car and told myself I wasn't going to get stuck again. While the car was running the screen had a message on it saying turn the engine on while using the media in the car so not to drain the battery. Do you guys think that would sound like an alternator issue? Or maybe both? I still have the org. Battery in this car.

 

[Mrjames]

All things considered, what battery would be the best of the best in a 2009 4.6 tech pack sedan?

So I have a 2012 Rspec. This morning I started the car as usual and went to turn on the seat heater a d rear defroster. The lights on both didn't work. Also heard a slight high pitch noise as well. On my 2010 4.6 I had a. Battery go bad while at the grocery store and tried to jump it from the front terminals with no luck. Called a tow truck and he jumped out of the cab with a jump box and I told him that isn't going to work. He popped the truck and jumped the car from the battery directly and it started right up. He also told me these cars are notorious for these things. Turns out my phone charger was the issue.. today the battery light turned on while leaving the driveway with those things I mentioned. So I backed up the car and told myself I wasn't going to get stuck again. While the car was running the screen had a message on it saying turn the engine on while using the media in the car so not to drain the battery. Do you guys think that would sound like an alternator issue? Or maybe both? I still have the org. Battery in this car.

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[EdP]

I still have the org. Battery in this car.

I've never seen an Eternal Life battery. Most don't make 5 years and you are pushing 7 or so. You can have it tested, but honestly, time to replace it.