Sub and Amp Install

[Jpixphotog72]

Here it is. Sorry I didn't see this message for a while.

So.. dumb question
Are you saying you just cut those sub wires and then added wires that run to the powered sub (in my case a powered sub)?

 

[ncrashb]

So.. dumb question
Are you saying you just cut those sub wires and then added wires that run to the powered sub (in my case a powered sub)?

You could cut them to piggyback your wires off of them, or if you have the patience and hands for it, I'd recommend just stripping a small section of the OEM wire shielding to expose the wires, insert your amp signal wire and then solder them together. Then tape up that section with electrical tape. Or just snip them, strip back a bit of wire, twist em together then tape. That method tends to come undone over time though and is not as solid of a connection signal-wise (potential voltage loss/waste).

Then yes, those wires you splice into the OEM ones then connect to your sub amp's input/line-in. The OEM voltage is high enough to not require a powered PAC module in between the OEM wire and the amp thankfully.
Try to ensure your amp has built in "Auto On/Off" support for sensing signal and turning on so that it doesn't just stay powered on 24/7; aftermarket head units have a signal wire for that specifically however since we're not replacing the head unit, you'll need to cover that another way. If your amp doesn't support that, you could run a wire from your amp's "Remote turn on" port up to the cabin and have a On/Off switch to manually control the amp's power.

 

[Jedclampet]

You could cut them to piggyback your wires off of them, or if you have the patience and hands for it, I'd recommend just stripping a small section of the OEM wire shielding to expose the wires, insert your amp signal wire and then solder them together. Then tape up that section with electrical tape. Or just snip them, strip back a bit of wire, twist em together then tape. That method tends to come undone over time though and is not as solid of a connection signal-wise (potential voltage loss/waste).

Then yes, those wires you splice into the OEM ones then connect to your sub amp's input/line-in. The OEM voltage is high enough to not require a powered PAC module in between the OEM wire and the amp thankfully.
Try to ensure your amp has built in "Auto On/Off" support for sensing signal and turning on so that it doesn't just stay powered on 24/7; aftermarket head units have a signal wire for that specifically however since we're not replacing the head unit, you'll need to cover that another way. If your amp doesn't support that, you could run a wire from your amp's "Remote turn on" port up to the cabin and have a On/Off switch to manually control the amp's power.

Question my plan would be to avoid removing the seats and the stock subs to disconnect them and tap the wires for my powered sub from the current speaker leads . With that said on the previous page the wire colors Brown and White for drivers side and Blue and Red for the passenger side are they at that point exiting the amp and heading towards the subs? So I would cut them and splice my connection to the connector side ? Does that sound right just wanting to confirm. I plan to add a 10 inch powered

Audison APBX10AS2​

 

[ncrashb]

Question my plan would be to avoid removing the seats and the stock subs to disconnect them and tap the wires for my powered sub from the current speaker leads . With that said on the previous page the wire colors Brown and White for drivers side and Blue and Red for the passenger side are they at that point exiting the amp and heading towards the subs? So I would cut them and splice my connection to the connector side ? Does that sound right just wanting to confirm. I plan to add a 10 inch powered

Audison APBX10AS2​

I didn't touch my seats or stock subs. My buddy suggested disconnecting them when tapping the lines to get our signal but I decided to keep them wired (prob better without them, but meh, didn't want to unbalance the oem amp or anything if it expects to see that resistance). So we stripped the oem sub wires in the rear of the car near the amp to connect our wiring which provides my aftermarket amp with signal.

I cannot recall any details regarding the wire colours or orientation other than what I have in photos. You can always test them with a 9V battery (Google this) to determine if you have the correct wires in hand. Just need someone up front to listen to hear where the pop comes from when testing.

 

[19genny]

Here it is. Sorry I didn't see this message for a while.

I’m about to start an install on my g70 for subs and an amp. Going to try and use what you have shown in the pics but just to be clear, you didn’t lose your factory subs since you only tapped into the wires right? Like the new subs don’t pull too much power that you need a capacitor? Which RCA adaptor did you use to go to the amp? Also the red plug with the wires you used, is that plug, the wires going into the amp? Or coming out? New to stereos but i am a mechanic so i understand wiring just don’t understand it fully…

 

[ncrashb]

I’m about to start an install on my g70 for subs and an amp. Going to try and use what you have shown in the pics but just to be clear, you didn’t lose your factory subs since you only tapped into the wires right? Like the new subs don’t pull too much power that you need a capacitor? Which RCA adaptor did you use to go to the amp? Also the red plug with the wires you used, is that plug, the wires going into the amp? Or coming out? New to stereos but i am a mechanic so i understand wiring just don’t understand it fully…

Factory subs are still functional as I didn’t cut their signal lines, I only stripped the plastic shielding back to wrap & solder in my additional wires for my RCA feeds. You could cut them if you wanted to kill off the OEM subs, but I figured may as well keep them in use despite them not having too much effect.

My amp and sub are rated for 600w at 2ohms peak but would never actually get that high. Capacitor isn’t required in my case but it does help lighten the load from the alternator/battery for quick spikes in draw. Say if you have the music very loud and there’s a heavy kick drum hit, the capacitor helps you in that scenario but overall if you’re not cranking it/drawing heavy all the time, likely can do without. If you went any bigger and were playing it loud often, may want to get a cap. And/or upgrade your alternator haha. Some even go as far as installing additional batteries.
Also, since the voltage tested very strong on those oem sub signal lines, a powered line-out converter was not required to raise the signal strength before it reached the sub amp thankfully. Easier and slightly cheaper without that powered PAC module.

The RCA adapter I used was a generic off the shelf one from my local car audio store. One end has 2 RCA jacks, the other end is raw wires. In theory, you could probably use any old RCA cable and just cut the ends off one side.
The RCA jacks plug into the sub amp’s “Line In” inputs, while the raw wire ends tap into the oem sub signal lines.

My amp has an auto on/off function by sending signal coming in or not, however I found that it always sensed a signal and never shut off, eventually ruining my battery after a couple years. The winter didn’t help I’m sure.
Shut it off for now but will need to install a remote turn-on wire in the summer from my sub amp up to the fuse panel and tap into one of the fuses so that the amp only turns on if the car is running or in ACC mode.

 

[19genny]

Factory subs are still functional as I didn’t cut their signal lines, I only stripped the plastic shielding back to wrap & solder in my additional wires for my RCA feeds. You could cut them if you wanted to kill off the OEM subs, but I figured may as well keep them in use despite them not having too much effect.

My amp and sub are rated for 600w at 2ohms peak but would never actually get that high. Capacitor isn’t required in my case but it does help lighten the load from the alternator/battery for quick spikes in draw. Say if you have the music very loud and there’s a heavy kick drum hit, the capacitor helps you in that scenario but overall if you’re not cranking it/drawing heavy all the time, likely can do without. If you went any bigger and were playing it loud often, may want to get a cap. And/or upgrade your alternator haha. Some even go as far as installing additional batteries.
Also, since the voltage tested very strong on those oem sub signal lines, a powered line-out converter was not required to raise the signal strength before it reached the sub amp thankfully. Easier and slightly cheaper without that powered PAC module.

The RCA adapter I used was a generic off the shelf one from my local car audio store. One end has 2 RCA jacks, the other end is raw wires. In theory, you could probably use any old RCA cable and just cut the ends off one side.
The RCA jacks plug into the sub amp’s “Line In” inputs, while the raw wire ends tap into the oem sub signal lines.

My amp has an auto on/off function by sending signal coming in or not, however I found that it always sensed a signal and never shut off, eventually ruining my battery after a couple years. The winter didn’t help I’m sure.
Shut it off for now but will need to install a remote turn-on wire in the summer from my sub amp up to the fuse panel and tap into one of the fuses so that the amp only turns on if the car is running or in ACC mode.

Thanks for the info, I luckily ordered a remote with mine as well glad you added that I felt like I wouldn’t install it unless I need it but might as well be safe. I’m starting off next weekend 2; 10 in subs peak @600rms each, monoblock 1600 watt amp. Crossing my fingers I don’t need a capacitor but it seems like it should be a good set up I think

 

[ncrashb]

Thanks for the info, I luckily ordered a remote with mine as well glad you added that I felt like I wouldn’t install it unless I need it but might as well be safe. I’m starting off next weekend 2; 10 in subs peak @600rms each, monoblock 1600 watt amp. Crossing my fingers I don’t need a capacitor but it seems like it should be a good set up I think

Which remote did you order? The remote bass knob is separate from the remote turn-on wire I referred to.
Remote bass knob is definitely handy for adjusting the gain without having to go back to the amp.
That’s a decent amount of power, you may want to consider a capacitor after all :/

 

[19genny]

Which remote did you order? The remote bass knob is separate from the remote turn-on wire I referred to.
Remote bass knob is definitely handy for adjusting the gain without having to go back to the amp.
That’s a decent amount of power, you may want to consider a capacitor after all :/

Ngl I thought the bass knobs would have an off position at the lowest setting, guess I probably should’ve looked into it I ordered the 2400watt Skar SDR full package set up and it said it came with a remote turn on wire that I was thinking I could tap the knob into…?

 

[19genny]

Here is the pin out for a 2019 G70 with Lexicon. If more wires are needed I have access to just about anything needed now!

______________________________

Help support this site so it can continue supporting you!

 

[19genny]

Here is the pin out for a 2019 G70 with Lexicon. If more wires are needed I have access to just about anything needed now!

Full breakdown here

 

[19genny]

Which remote did you order? The remote bass knob is separate from the remote turn-on wire I referred to.
Remote bass knob is definitely handy for adjusting the gain without having to go back to the amp.
That’s a decent amount of power, you may want to consider a capacitor after all :/

Do you think it would be acceptable to tap into the spdif “low” or “high”? My problem is when I tapped into the wires that you did also, it is making my stock subs “pop” At certain frequencies. I’d like to grab the audio going into the amp instead of after it so I won’t draw power needed for stock subs…. Maybe I’m doing something wrong but I don’t believe so, it’s pretty straight forward. Any advice?

 

[ncrashb]

Do you think it would be acceptable to tap into the spdif “low” or “high”? My problem is when I tapped into the wires that you did also, it is making my stock subs “pop” At certain frequencies. I’d like to grab the audio going into the amp instead of after it so I won’t draw power needed for stock subs…. Maybe I’m doing something wrong but I don’t believe so, it’s pretty straight forward. Any advice?

How did you attach the raw wires together? It could be a poor connection.

You could also sever them as to disable the oem subs unless you reattached them one day.

I’m not sure about tapping the preamp signal; you would likely need a powered signal converter inline at a minimum. I’ll ask my car audio guru friend who helped with my install and I’ll see what he thinks.
If any of those wires are fibre optics (I can’t recall if they are, from the head unit to the amp or copper wires), there won’t be any tapping of those lol.

 

[ncrashb]

Do you think it would be acceptable to tap into the spdif “low” or “high”? My problem is when I tapped into the wires that you did also, it is making my stock subs “pop” At certain frequencies. I’d like to grab the audio going into the amp instead of after it so I won’t draw power needed for stock subs…. Maybe I’m doing something wrong but I don’t believe so, it’s pretty straight forward. Any advice?

Alright he said no, can’t tap preamp as even if the signal lines are copper, the signal being sent to the amp is digital (spdif) and typically isn’t a general standard protocol easily used by other devices. The amp might not like the signal being broken/intercepted either if there’s any type of authentication happening etc.

He also advised that tapping the postamp signal doesn’t take any power away from the oem subs. The wattage is drawn by the subs, not the signal taps, and the oem signal has a strong voltage so no worries there.

 

[Pyrosaxplayer]

I’m about to start an install on my g70 for subs and an amp. Going to try and use what you have shown in the pics but just to be clear, you didn’t lose your factory subs since you only tapped into the wires right? Like the new subs don’t pull too much power that you need a capacitor? Which RCA adaptor did you use to go to the amp? Also the red plug with the wires you used, is that plug, the wires going into the amp? Or coming out? New to stereos but i am a mechanic so i understand wiring just don’t understand it fully…

I highly advise against capacitors.

I'd rather you upgrade your electrical (H/O Alternator like a 240amp alt, or High Performance Optima Yellow Top battery) before going capacitor.

I am running 2 Sundown Audio SA-8 DVC 2ohm to a Hifonics Brutus 2000.1D amp wired at 2ohm for a 1000w output and having no issues with dimming or anything.

 

[ncrashb]

I highly advise against capacitors.

I'd rather you upgrade your electrical (H/O Alternator like a 240amp alt, or High Performance Optima Yellow Top battery) before going capacitor.

I am running 2 Sundown Audio SA-8 DVC 2ohm to a Hifonics Brutus 2000.1D amp wired at 2ohm for a 1000w output and having no issues with dimming or anything.View attachment 51574View attachment 51575

I wonder if we’d even notice though without using meters since all the lights in these cars are LED

 

[Pyrosaxplayer]

I wonder if we’d even notice though without using meters since all the lights in these cars are LED

Very true, if there is any voltage drop in my car, it's not drawing of the Alt. We would notice significant voltage drop by seeing our RPMs drop on every bass hit. (Had to upgrade my previous car charging system to a Mechman 240amp alt because the RPM would drop from 1.2k idle to 600rpm at bass hit lol.)

 

[ncrashb]

Very true, if there is any voltage drop in my car, it's not drawing of the Alt. We would notice significant voltage drop by seeing our RPMs drop on every bass hit. (Had to upgrade my previous car charging system to a Mechman 240amp alt because the RPM would drop from 1.2k idle to 600rpm at bass hit lol.)

Mm good point. Geez very nice, this all reminds me of highschool having the crappiest car with way too much wattage sucking the life out of it via bass haha

 

[Pyrosaxplayer]

Mm good point. Geez very nice, this all reminds me of highschool having the crappiest car with way too much wattage sucking the life out of it via bass haha

Lmao! I fell into #Basshead life by my brothers doing. Every car he ever had when I was growing up had chest pounding bass. So out of memory of him (R.I.P.) I make sure I am heard for blocks.

Bought my wife a 2016 Hyundai Tucson Limited Dec 2015 and it's nearing end of warranty and she wants to jump on the Genesis Bandwagon. (Probably going with the new GV90s or all Electric GV70s).

When she does, that Tuscon will be my new bass mobile. At minimum, 4 15s

 

[onecrappie]

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