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The mystery about transmission hard shift is finally revealed (TSB for HARSH 2~3, 3~4 OR 4~5 UPSHIFT)

So this can be a DIY if I have a lift and tools. I don't need the GDS tool ? Would you replace the transmission pan? Or can you just change the filter in the pan? Has anyone taken apart the valve body to clean the solenoids? If so, what cleaner do you use? How much transmission fluid would I need? Located in Toronto/Barrie area, Canada

Ps already bought the 2 new solenoids, contacted a transmission shop to do repair and they would not do as they said they would need to diagnose...I just want the TSB done!!!
 
So this can be a DIY if I have a lift and tools. I don't need the GDS tool ? Would you replace the transmission pan? Or can you just change the filter in the pan? Has anyone taken apart the valve body to clean the solenoids? If so, what cleaner do you use? How much transmission fluid would I need? Located in Toronto/Barrie area, Canada

Ps already bought the 2 new solenoids, contacted a transmission shop to do repair and they would not do as they said they would need to diagnose...I just want the TSB done!!!
This kind of thing has what has kept me from doing it - I have a good relationship w/ an indie mechanic that has no problem installing factory or known high quality parts.... They just don't do transmissions.
 
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I am currently in this process with my dealer, after their diagnoses, they agreed that a transmission replacement would be the fix. The manufacturer approved the part order however, the warranty department is refusing to approve the repair to take place. They have had my car for 2 weeks now with no updates other than what I've written here.

When my 2018 was still under Warranty, mt Dealer refused to even diagnose the problem or even acknowledged the issue existed. Sending them the TSB only led to blindness and deafness...
 
When my 2018 was still under Warranty, mt Dealer refused to even diagnose the problem or even acknowledged the issue existed. Sending them the TSB only led to blindness and deafness...
That's unfortunate.

My recommendation is as follows:

Inspect the quality of your ATF.
Check for error codes if present

If the above is all good, then replace the two solenoids and atf spec SP-IV-RR and the pan.

Reset the adaptive values and perform the adaptation process.


Good Luck
 
Forgive me if this has been covered. I have a 2012 Equus that has these shifting symptoms; I bought it this way. I'm thinking of replacing the solenoids and while looking through the part numbers it seems like the part numbers may be interchangeable/updated.

For example,
46313-4e701 is the part number that replaces the original 46313-4e700 part for the 2012; however
46313-4e702 is the part number that replaces the original 46313-4e701 part for the 2016

It stands to reason that I could put a 46313-4e702 in my 2012, wouldn't you think?
 
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Forgive me if this has been covered. I have a 2012 Equus that has these shifting symptoms; I bought it this way. I'm thinking of replacing the solenoids and while looking through the part numbers it seems like the part numbers may be interchangeable/updated.

For example,
46313-4e701 is the part number that replaces the original 46313-4e700 part for the 2012; however
46313-4e702 is the part number that replaces the original 46313-4e701 part for the 2016

It stands to reason that I could put a 46313-4e702 in my 2012, wouldn't you think?
Hi,

If 701 fits in your car's valve body, then for sure 702 fits. The same goes for 602.
 
That's unfortunate.

My recommendation is as follows:

Inspect the quality of your ATF.
Check for error codes if present

If the above is all good, then replace the two solenoids and atf spec SP-IV-RR and the pan.

Reset the adaptive values and perform the adaptation process.


Good Luck
How do you reset the adaptive values and perform the adaptation process? Do you need a hyundai GDS computer
 
How do you reset the adaptive values and perform the adaptation process? Do you need a hyundai GDS computer
There's a shifting procedure that you can do in the driveway - It's somewhere in this thread, I believe.... Post #74
 
There's a shifting procedure that you can do in the driveway - It's somewhere in this thread, I believe.... Post #74
Thank you. Missed it
 
For those of you who've had a hard downshift, did anything flicker with your gauge cluster and headunit, by chance? Experienced this today. It's been 3k miles since I did the TSB maintenance. When I shut down the car, it skipped the graceful chime on the shutdown sequence. Upon startup, it revved higher than normal, and kept the revs high (1.5k ish) until I brought it into drive. I shut it down and started it up two more times, and it's been happy since.

Not sure what to make of it yet, but it makes me weary of making any sudden pedal stomps to 100% throttle now.

The only thing that was different about the drive was I'd plugged in my exhaust's smartbox system to the OBD II port, which it talks to as part of reading throttle, RPM, and speed. Not sure if some communication on that channel would've played any role with the transmission doing what it did.
 
FWIW, my latest issue came from the battery being loose. Previous tech did a hack job, and it had moved during a shift or something. Everything appears to be good again now that a reputable tech has fixed the battery screw holding it in place.
 
Greetings all - still catching up on this thread but wanted to ask a quick question if I may, time is somewhat limited:

I have a 2017 G80 with 70,000 miles that I'm "test driving" until Monday evening. Need to decide "deal or no deal" by then.

It's a 3.8 w/ Ultimate package. Only asking $18,500. During first ~30 miles of driving, had a few ~clunky shifts that were not ideal, but ultimately OK. Had 1 or 2 what I would call "bad" shifts, rough "thud" - gradually slowing down from 40 mph to park.

I'm in pretty bad need to get rid of my 2010 2.0 T Coupe. You know that advice you hear of "drive until the wheels fall off?" Well, I did. The wheels haven't fallen off, but the oil hasn't been too keen on staying in the engine these last few months.

I'm not overly concerned with every bell & whistle working perfectly on a car of this age, and literally anything will be an upgrade from the ol' 2010 Coupe.

I don't think this car is under an extended Hyundai warranty, I would be the 3rd owner and buying it from a Ford dealer. Curious if anybody has paid a Hyundai/Genesis dealer outright for solenoid work mentioned in TSB, or if the rough transmission is a sign of trouble to come. Any advice is appreciated!

(Edit: Apparently I forgot what year my Coupe is!)
 
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Greetings all - still catching up on this thread but wanted to ask a quick question if I may, time is somewhat limited:

I have a 2017 G80 with 70,000 miles that I'm "test driving" until Monday evening. Need to decide "deal or no deal" by then.

It's a 3.8 w/ Ultimate package. Only asking $18,500. During first ~30 miles of driving, had a few ~clunky shifts that were not ideal, but ultimately OK. Had 1 or 2 what I would call "bad" shifts, rough "thud" - gradually slowing down from 40 mph to park.

I'm in pretty bad need to get rid of my 2010 2.0 T Coupe. You know that advice you hear of "drive until the wheels fall off?" Well, I did. The wheels haven't fallen off, but the oil hasn't been too keen on staying in the engine these last few months.

I'm not overly concerned with every bell & whistle working perfectly on a car of this age, and literally anything will be an upgrade from the ol' 2010 Coupe.

I don't think this car is under an extended Hyundai warranty, I would be the 3rd owner and buying it from a Ford dealer. Curious if anybody has paid a Hyundai/Genesis dealer outright for solenoid work mentioned in TSB, or if the rough transmission is a sign of trouble to come. Any advice is appreciated!

(Edit: Apparently I forgot what year my Coupe is!)
Your best bet is a full ATF flush with a new filter with a new set of solenoids. I did it at the dealer here in Dubai.
 
Your best bet is a full ATF flush with a new filter with a new set of solenoids. I did it at the dealer here in Dubai.

Thanks Husam - and If I'm following thread - the "flush" is a drain & refill of the fluid - so as to not force any metal particles in to small areas near solenoid?

I have a friend who's a master tech, but he works at a Ford dealer at the moment. I think he could help me with the solenoid job. Any idea what parts cost?
 
Thanks Husam - and If I'm following thread - the "flush" is a drain & refill of the fluid - so as to not force any metal particles in to small areas near solenoid?

I have a friend who's a master tech, but he works at a Ford dealer at the moment. I think he could help me with the solenoid job. Any idea what parts cost?
An ATF flush is slightly different from drain and fill. It works by flushing out the entire ATF through the cooler lines, all 10+ liters are removed including the fluid in the torque converter but the drain and fill only takes out less than half of the capacity.

I don't remember how much the solenoids were but bought them online.
 
You also have the option to "drain & fill" 3x to get 90% of the old fluid out. Costs a bit more in trans fluid - but saves you the flush route. If you are going to pull the pan and replace the solenoids - replace the filter as well.
 
You also have the option to "drain & fill" 3x to get 90% of the old fluid out. Costs a bit more in trans fluid - but saves you the flush route. If you are going to pull the pan and replace the solenoids - replace the filter as well.
Appreciate the info! From @Husam as well.

I'm getting a quote from local Genesis dealer on the solenoid replacement cost if I pay out of pocket. Well see what they say!

Very likely going to buy this model, I'm asking the dealer selling it ( a Ford dealer) if they can simply drain and fill TX fluid before I sign. I advised them NOT to use any methods involved pressurized flush, simply drain and refill.

You think that is a simple enough process that a used car tech at a Ford dealer wouldn't mess it up?


Other thought is I'll just tell them not to touch it and take it up with Genesis dealer.

I've noticed you can almost avoid the clunky shifts with some mindful throttle use/driving style. But the worst ones come when accelerating, then slowing, then accelerating again.

Seems it has trouble searching for a gear and then applies throttle too early. Interestingly, using Sport drive mode seems to give much less trouble, as I believe it holds the current gear longer.


Thanks again for the help, after I buy it & detail I'll post some pics!
 
Yeah - you shouldn't have to do any jockeying around with the accelerator in order to get decent shifts. Honestly - when the trans is working right - it shifts like absolute butter. You barely notice it in the G80 - and you do not notice it in the G90 at all. It is something the DH got high marks for from even the initial release.
 
I'm getting a quote from local Genesis dealer on the solenoid replacement cost if I pay out of pocket. Well see what they say!

Note - a local Genesis/Hyundai dealer quoted "about $1,000" to have the TSB work done if I were to have them do it & pay full price - parts & labor total.

Have a friend at local parts mega-distributor. He showed with his employee discount that each solenoid would cost about $91, list price of $122.

He also pointed out Amazon sells what appears to be the correct part for $65-$75. Granted, probably not worth saving the $ in case they are fake/junk:


 
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