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Tire Pressure Sensor - wtf??

sumdood

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I've had my 2010 Genesis 3.8 for about 4 months so far. No problems until a few days ago when the TPS light came on. Since then it comes on everytime I drive. I checked the tire pressure and they all show the same... 35psi. Why does this TPS light come on?

When at the dealer, they said cold weather can cause it to go on, and the night I did see it come on it was cool out, but its still on now even when its 90 outside. So that doesn't make sense, unless the 70deg cool weather (I'm used to 90) broke the sensor.

Only other thing I can think of is I pulled into a steep driveway and slightly scraped the underside of the car. Doubt that has anything to do with it. From what I saw under the car there was no damage (slight scratch only on the black plastic front under piece)

-sumdood
 
My wife's Sonata will light the light if the tires are at 35psi per my gauge. But if I pump them up to 36 the light will go off. And her car is really susceptible to the early morning low temps. The light will come on and then she'll drive for a few miles on the highway and the light will go off.
 
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FWIW,
get your tires filled with nitrogen instead of regular air. this will stabilize the pressure as nitrogen won't expand/contract like air does (even though air is mostly nitrogen). It will also help with keeping moisture out of the tires.
 
I suspect your tire gage is off a little. Even a pound can make a difference. I would try increasing the pressure to 36 (per your gage) and see if that fixes your issue.
 
Very interesting. It sounds like a very good idea, but where does one find nitrogen under pressure with a hose and nozzle that fit on valve stems?:confused:

Ron
 
Mine have nitrogen in them now. It sounds like I need 1 more psi. Thanks!

Ps: I agree, nitrogen isn't a waste of money. Fox news claims it is in their tech "opinions" section. But then again they also claim that the new iphone is the best smart phone... which obviously couldn't be the case considering it gets no reception when held in the left hand. So can't believe everything we read...
 
There's a whole slew of things that could be going wrong, albeit they should throw an OBDII code if they failed. Of course, that would expect that system to work flawlessly too.

Some items that could be culprits:
1) Each wheel sensor has a battery, as does the TPMS ECU. If those are bad, I'm guessing things wouldn't work right.
2) There are various transmitters and receivers that send the tire pressure to the car which could be bad.

The following is a list of all the OBDII codes associated with the TPMS. If you can get a code reader (AutoZone let's you check codes for free) and one of these codes is in the system, it might help with troubleshooting.

C1121 Sensor 1, Front Left Sensor Battery Voltage Low
C1122 Sensor 2, Front Right Sensor Battery Voltage Low
C1123 Sensor 3, Rear Left Sensor Battery Voltage Low
C1124 Sensor 4, Rear Right Sensor Battery Voltage Low
C1126 TPMS ECU Battery Voltage Low
C1127 TPMS ECU Battery Voltage High
C1212 First Speed Input Fault
C1240 Second Speed Input Fault
C1300 LF/RF External Interference Failure
C1306 RF Internal Interference Failure
C1312 Front Left Sensor RF Channel Failure
C1313 Front Right Sensor RF Channel Failure
C1314 Rear Left Sensor RF Channel Failure
C1315 Rear Right Sensor RF Channel Failure
C1322 Front Left Sensor Over Temperature
C1323 Front Right Sensor Over Temperature
C1324 Rear Left Sensor Over Temperature
C1325 Rear Right Sensor Over Temperature
C1332 Front Left Sensor Fault
C1333 Front Right Sensor Fault
C1334 Left Rear Sensor Fault
C1335 Rear Right Sensor Fault
C1345 Front Low Frequency Initiator Channel Failure
C1346 Rear Low Frequency Initiator Channel Failure
C1660 Receiver Radio Frequency Circuit Failure
C1661 Receiver EEPROM Failure
C1664 Initiator/LF/RF Circuit Failure Not Affecting RSSI Level (High Line Only)
C1665 Initiator Supply Circuit Short to Ground
C1666 Initiator Supply Circuit Short to Battery
C1668 Internal Failure Detection
C2510 TREAD LAMP Open/Short Circuit
C2512 Front Left LAMP Open/Short Circuit
C2513 Front Right LAMP Open/Short Circuit
C2514 Rear Left LAMP Open/Short Circuit
C2515 Rear Right LAMP Open/Short Circuit
 
Interesting is that I have new contis DWS's in the back and the stock tires in the front. Rears are at 42 psi, fronts at 35. So sensor alarm, problem.

Pressure difference (drop ) is probably leading to an alram, not the actual pressure. Otherwise it would have shown up when I pumped the rears from 35 to 42.

Sensors go off when the car gets cold over night (pressure drop) (last winter).
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FWIW,
get your tires filled with nitrogen instead of regular air. this will stabilize the pressure as nitrogen won't expand/contract like air does (even though air is mostly nitrogen). It will also help with keeping moisture out of the tires.

I don't believe a word of it. :welcome:

My Genesis Dealer fills all his cars tires with nitrogen. Installes the little green caps to show they have nitrogen. I had no pressure loss, as expected. I purchased new tires, and had 78% nitrogen, 21% oxygen, 1% other installed, and no pressure loss.

My Continental also has 78% nitrogen, 21% oxygen, 1% other installed.
Again, no pressure loss.

BTW, for those of you who don't know;
78% nitrogen, 21% oxygen, and 1% everything else is "air'. Regular air, that you breath.

:grouphug:
 
N2 a waste of money in my opinion. WHen you have to refill it may be inconvenient to find N2 instead of air.

Oh, you can find it. Car and Tire Dealers around here advertise that they will fill you tires with nitrogen for $29.95 to as much as $49.95.

Money Maker!

Although my Hyundai dealer does it for free, as long as I own the car. At last tire change, I just had normal air put in, and its still in there without any pressure drop. Someday when I have time, I may have my dealer do the nitrogen thing, after all, its free.
 
FWIW,
get your tires filled with nitrogen instead of regular air. this will stabilize the pressure as nitrogen won't expand/contract like air does (even though air is mostly nitrogen). It will also help with keeping moisture out of the tires.

Yuhaze hit on (perhaps unknowingly) what the real problem is here...i.e., moisture in the tires.

When you pump up your tires at the local service station on a 95 degree/95% humidity day down in southern FLA, they are full of moisture, and thus prone to greater pressure fluctuations. If you pump them up with a dry gas, be it nitrogen out of the bottle for $29.95, or the air from a cold, dry day in the high deserts of Nevada, then there will be little, if any moisture in the tire.
 
I have had my tires low but the lights don't come on. And the manual says it's only for extreme low tires, not just normally low. The thing is, my last car had a lot of tire problems/expense due to them losing air, had to replace them every year, basically... So when I was 'sold' that this car had low tire notice, I was ecstatic. So, is it supposed to work when they lose a couple of pounds, or when they are on the floor?
 
My 2009 sedan will trip the TPMS if a tire gets to 28psi. 29 psi is enough to satisfy the TPMS system. With the recent "cold snap" in SoCal (down to the 50s at night) I had my two rear tires hit 28psi in the morning, fronts were at 29. The TPMS indicated both rear tires were low but not the fronts. I've since pumped all 4 tires to the low 30s.

mike c.
 
My low pressure light recently came on after it got down into the 20's (and I even have nitrogen). I checked the pressure before I took off and all of them were at about 32-32.5psi. I filled them up to 35psi and the light was still on. I filled them up to 36 psi and the light went off.
 
I have a 2013 Genesis 3.8 and originally has a bad TPMS sensor which was replaced with an OEM one. We tried to program/relearn the car system but it keeps failing and giving C1345 Front Low Frequency Initiator Channel Failure, I replaced the front LF initiator but no luck, any help, please?
 
Last edited:
There's a whole slew of things that could be going wrong, albeit they should throw an OBDII code if they failed. Of course, that would expect that system to work flawlessly too.

Some items that could be culprits:
1) Each wheel sensor has a battery, as does the TPMS ECU. If those are bad, I'm guessing things wouldn't work right.
2) There are various transmitters and receivers that send the tire pressure to the car which could be bad.

The following is a list of all the OBDII codes associated with the TPMS. If you can get a code reader (AutoZone let's you check codes for free) and one of these codes is in the system, it might help with troubleshooting.

C1121 Sensor 1, Front Left Sensor Battery Voltage Low
C1122 Sensor 2, Front Right Sensor Battery Voltage Low
C1123 Sensor 3, Rear Left Sensor Battery Voltage Low
C1124 Sensor 4, Rear Right Sensor Battery Voltage Low
C1126 TPMS ECU Battery Voltage Low
C1127 TPMS ECU Battery Voltage High
C1212 First Speed Input Fault
C1240 Second Speed Input Fault
C1300 LF/RF External Interference Failure
C1306 RF Internal Interference Failure
C1312 Front Left Sensor RF Channel Failure
C1313 Front Right Sensor RF Channel Failure
C1314 Rear Left Sensor RF Channel Failure
C1315 Rear Right Sensor RF Channel Failure
C1322 Front Left Sensor Over Temperature
C1323 Front Right Sensor Over Temperature
C1324 Rear Left Sensor Over Temperature
C1325 Rear Right Sensor Over Temperature
C1332 Front Left Sensor Fault
C1333 Front Right Sensor Fault
C1334 Left Rear Sensor Fault
C1335 Rear Right Sensor Fault
C1345 Front Low Frequency Initiator Channel Failure
C1346 Rear Low Frequency Initiator Channel Failure
C1660 Receiver Radio Frequency Circuit Failure
C1661 Receiver EEPROM Failure
C1664 Initiator/LF/RF Circuit Failure Not Affecting RSSI Level (High Line Only)
C1665 Initiator Supply Circuit Short to Ground
C1666 Initiator Supply Circuit Short to Battery
C1668 Internal Failure Detection
C2510 TREAD LAMP Open/Short Circuit
C2512 Front Left LAMP Open/Short Circuit
C2513 Front Right LAMP Open/Short Circuit
C2514 Rear Left LAMP Open/Short Circuit
C2515 Rear Right LAMP Open/Short Circuit
I have a 2013 Genesis 3.8 and originally has a bad TPMS sensor which was replaced with an OEM one. We tried to program/relearn the car system but it keeps failing and giving C1345 Front Low Frequency Initiator Channel Failure, I replaced the front LF initiator but no luck, any help, please?
 
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