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Tire Pressure?

Why not just correct your out of whack rear camber? Over inflating won't change that... and will actually decrease the contact patch (all else equal).

Because factory spec *IS* out of whack by almost 4 degrees. It is for almost any "sport sedan".... with BMW and Merc being the most out of whack of them all. Dealers wont align to anything but spec - so you have to take it to a shop that is willing to to adjust out of spec. "to improve handling under cornering load" is one of the dumbest things I have ever heard to try and justify cambered alignments on a vehicle that spends 99.999% of it's time going in a straight line.
 
So what PSI should you inflate to if you are on 20" wheels, 255/35/20 tire? Does the PSI on the door jam still apply?
 
...6 psi is not a few lbs over - it's almost 20% over... it's your car and your money, so do what you want, but there are tradeoffs to running on overinflated tires that folks should be aware of.

This. Spending money to replace tires is not something I want to do any sooner than I have to. Significant over-inflation, or under-inflation, are well known paths to shortening tire life.
 
So what PSI should you inflate to if you are on 20" wheels, 255/35/20 tire? Does the PSI on the door jam still apply?

No. The door jam only applies on factory tires. To that effect - it doesn't even apply to the Michelins as they were based on the Kuhmos. If they required that much fine control and little latitude before pushing out the middle of the tire - that's just one of several problems with them. Good thing they were recalled. Thankfully the Michelins do not press outward just because of a few extra lbs of air. You should follow the ratings on the tires themselves in your case.
 
No. The door jam only applies on factory tires. To that effect - it doesn't even apply to the Michelins as they were based on the Kuhmos. If they required that much fine control and little latitude before pushing out the middle of the tire - that's just one of several problems with them. Good thing they were recalled. Thankfully the Michelins do not press outward just because of a few extra lbs of air. You should follow the ratings on the tires themselves in your case.

Oh boy, talk about misinformation. The Genesis is delivered with various brands of tires depending on where it is in the world yet the door jamb pressure remains the same. Tires are always inflated to suit an application. Never heard of a tire that has a "tire rating" they only have maximum pressure which has nothing to do with the application unless your car happens to be at the limit of the tires maximum load capacity. Regardless of brand, the manufacturer door jamb is the pressure you need to use.
 
Oh boy, talk about misinformation. The Genesis is delivered with various brands of tires depending on where it is in the world yet the door jamb pressure remains the same. Tires are always inflated to suit an application. Never heard of a tire that has a "tire rating" they only have maximum pressure which has nothing to do with the application unless your car happens to be at the limit of the tires maximum load capacity. Regardless of brand, the manufacturer door jamb is the pressure you need to use.
Agreed. srobak is wrong. The recommended tire pressure has more to do with suspension handling, braking, vehicle load limits, etc, than it has to do with a specific tire.

However, there is no guarantee that the recommended tire pressure applies to any non-OEM wheel sizes and/or aspect ratios, since Hyundai did not test those.
 
In Europe the G2 came with Dunlop tires.
Mine, on the 3.8 AWD, are 230kPa front and 240 kPa rear.
 
In Europe the G2 came with Dunlop tires.
Mine, on the 3.8 AWD, are 230kPa front and 240 kPa rear.

Which is pretty much 33 psi front and 35 psi rear - sames as US RWD cars with the 19" rim setup. So same recommendations for Hankook, Michelin, Continental and Dunlop tires as expected!
 
Oh boy, talk about misinformation.

Agreed. srobak is wrong. The recommended tire pressure has more to do with suspension handling, braking, vehicle load limits, etc, than it has to do with a specific tire.

Really.... ok - I'd like to see you try to run 33psi on a set of Potenza Pole Positions mounted on Velgen VMB5's. Quite simply - that will not work, no matter what car you try to run them on. Not at all - which you go on to elude to here:

However, there is no guarantee that the recommended tire pressure applies to any non-OEM wheel sizes and/or aspect ratios, since Hyundai did not test those.

To further clarify - Ask any wheel & tire performance shop worth their salt and they will tell you that the stamp on the door is for a specific size tire with a specific hardness and a specific sidewall strength and specific load rating for that tire - and has far less to do with suspension, handling and braking. Once you start to stray away from the OEM specs for the tire - which yes - multiple brands have tires which meet those OEM specs, that stamp goes right out the window and you are in trial & error mode unless there is an existing rating for a car of similar size, weight, suspension and alignment specs.
 
Really.... ok - I'd like to see you try to run 33psi on a set of Potenza Pole Positions mounted on Velgen VMB5's.
As I already mentioned, if you use non-OEM wheels (especially non-OEM sizes or non-OEM tire sizes) then all bets are off since Hyundai did not test them for a recommended PSI.

But if you use the OEM rims, and get another brand tire that has same size (including aspect ratio) as the OEM tires, then the PSI recommended on the door jamb sticker should apply.

Also, if you modified the suspension, all bets are off on the Hyundai recommended PSI.
 
Picked up a AWD Genesis today. Nice car but ride was a little stiff I thought. Close to home I found the TPMS display. It read around 47 PSI in each of the tires!!! Funny. Lowered the pressure to spec. Guess the dealer missed it.
 
Picked up a AWD Genesis today. Nice car but ride was a little stiff I thought. Close to home I found the TPMS display. It read around 47 PSI in each of the tires!!! Funny. Lowered the pressure to spec. Guess the dealer missed it.

Guess he missed it is just the real world talking to you. Basically they take off the protective film, wash the car and hand you the keys however they are supposed to actually do dozens of checks which they are too lazy to do. Sometimes they go way overboard and adjust the clock too! :roll eyes: Sad but true.
 
Guess he missed it is just the real world talking to you. Basically they take off the protective film, wash the car and hand you the keys however they are supposed to actually do dozens of checks which they are too lazy to do. Sometimes they go way overboard and adjust the clock too! :roll eyes: Sad but true.
Sort of like the Hyundai CPO (Certified Pre-Owned) program. It is supposed to be a "comprehensive 150-point quality assurance inspection by a Hyundai dealership technician."

But as many members have reported on this forum (based on problems they discovered as soon as they drove a CPO vehicle off the dealer lot), most dealers don't actually check anything other than to make sure the car starts.
 
Wow, I must be crazy as I have tried my tires at 33, 35 and 30 and with all to potholes in San Diego 30 works great for me. If I ever take a long road trip I will bump up to 33 or 35.
The car is so much better locally at 30 PSI
 
Agreed. srobak is wrong. The recommended tire pressure has more to do with suspension handling, braking, vehicle load limits, etc, than it has to do with a specific tire.

Really.... ok - I'd like to see you try to run 33psi on a set of Potenza Pole Positions mounted on Velgen VMB5's. Quite simply - that will not work, no matter what car you try to run them on. Not at all - which you go on to elude to here:



To further clarify - Ask any wheel & tire performance shop worth their salt and they will tell you that the stamp on the door is for a specific size tire with a specific hardness and a specific sidewall strength and specific load rating for that tire - and has far less to do with suspension, handling and braking. Once you start to stray away from the OEM specs for the tire - which yes - multiple brands have tires which meet those OEM specs, that stamp goes right out the window and you are in trial & error mode unless there is an existing rating for a car of similar size, weight, suspension and alignment specs.

I know this is old but... srobak is perfectly right.

When I got new wheels/tires, The discount Tire manager checked the rating for the specific tires, which are Nitto555 and recommended tire pressure for those tires and size were 3psi over OEM specs.
 
To further clarify - Ask any wheel & tire performance shop worth their salt and they will tell you that the stamp on the door is for a specific size tire with a specific hardness and a specific sidewall strength and specific load rating for that tire - and has far less to do with suspension, handling and braking. Once you start to stray away from the OEM specs for the tire - which yes - multiple brands have tires which meet those OEM specs, that stamp goes right out the window and you are in trial & error mode unless there is an existing rating for a car of similar size, weight, suspension and alignment specs.
In a previous post, you said the factory tire pressure recommendation only applied to factory tires. Now you are saying they only apply to factory rims. OK, I will give you that. If one is using some kind of exotic, non-factory sized rims and tires, then the factory tire pressure specs may not apply.
 
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