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True cold air intake

3.8 Ram Air Intake custom heat shield a more true "CAI"

I think Carguy75 May remember this thread :popcorn: HAHAHA

Anyway it shows my process for how i made a heat shield for INJEN Short ram and it did everything it was supposed to do and I was able to maintain the functionality of the OEM ram air piece that sits above the radiator. Blows outside air directly into the box.. I have been working with carbon fiber and fiberglass and have learned a ton and will be redoing the the box in Carbon.

Here are some before and afters of the Bay and Intake:
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As for my thoughts on your original post. I wouldn't cut your car and that location seems like it would be really susceptible of water intake. I had looked into a true CAI and know of a company that fabbed one up but never put it into production. I have some pics on my phone but there is a place behind th passenger headlight where, with a bracket, you can relocate a pump to allow piping to be routed down into the bumper. I'll edit this post with those pics in a minute.

Can't imagine you this would be much different on the 5.0. Maybe worth checking out for you guys. The heat box works great for me. I have plans to turbo my 3.8 using a BK2 coupe kit. And will most likely utilize this bracket so that I can place my filter down there. Obviously not because I need cold air. But the turbo/housing will sit exactly where the filter is sitting currently so space wise it'll be my best option.
 
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Can't imagine you this would be much different on the 5.0. Maybe worth checking out for you guys. The heat box works great for me. I have plans to turbo my 3.8 using a BK2 coupe kit. And will most likely utilize this bracket so that I can place my filter down there. Obviously not because I need cold air. But the turbo/housing will sit exactly where the filter is sitting currently so space wise its the best option for me
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3.8 Ram Air Intake custom heat shield a more true "CAI"

I think Carguy75 May remember this thread :popcorn: HAHAHA

Anyway it shows my process for how i made a heat shield for INJEN Short ram and it did everything it was supposed to do and I was able to maintain the functionality of the OEM ram air piece that sits above the radiator. Blows outside air directly into the box.. I have been working with carbon fiber and fiberglass and have learned a ton and will be redoing the the box in Carbon.

Here are some before and afters of the Bay and Intake:
View attachment 31479View attachment 31482
View attachment 31480View attachment 31483
View attachment 31478View attachment 31481
View attachment 31484

As for my thoughts on your original post. I wouldn't cut your car and that location seems like it would be really susceptible of water intake. I had looked into a true CAI and know of a company that fabbed one up but never put it into production. I have some pics on my phone but there is a place behind th passenger headlight where, with a bracket, you can relocate a pump to allow piping to be routed down into the bumper. I'll edit this post with those pics in a minute.

Can't imagine you this would be much different on the 5.0. Maybe worth checking out for you guys. The heat box works great for me. I have plans to turbo my 3.8 using a BK2 coupe kit. And will most likely utilize this bracket so that I can place my filter down there. Obviously not because I need cold air. But the turbo/housing will sit exactly where the filter is sitting currently so space wise it'll be my best option.
I just skimmed your thread and HOLY SCHNIKEYS! That got heated. You know how they say never openly discuss religion and politics... They may need to add automotive air intake theory to that.

Did you ever get numbers for yours set up? AIT, 0-60 or 1/4 mile comparisons? Don't worry, i'm not a naysayer. I tested mine at the track.
 
I just skimmed your thread and HOLY SCHNIKEYS! That got heated. You know how they say never openly discuss religion and politics... They may need to add automotive air intake theory to that.

Did you ever get numbers for yours set up? AIT, 0-60 or 1/4 mile comparisons? Don't worry, i'm not a naysayer. I tested mine at the track.
Yeah it was albeit a VERY VERY INFORMATIVE back and fourth for sure!
As for numbers no but ill be more than happy to do some numbers when I make my carbon fiber box. I don't have a draggy but my friend has OBDll tool. Any other reccom3nded apps to use?

Regardless of the 0 to 60 or ¼mi the ambient Temps inside the box after spirited driving is cooool to the touch. I would confidently say it cuts the Temps down around 10°F even more than the rest of the engine bay even at idle. I would love to see the numbers myself as well. I can hands down say that this box defintely a huge increase over just the SRI in the hot bay or even the after market plastic "heat shields"
 
This should be enough "proof" for any critics.

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Great article. Got my thinking that I may try the large oval Corvette filter on the throttle body and see how it goes. It seems that increased air flow can still make more power than stock even if the air is warmer. I read similar results before on other tests over the years about short ram intakes, however cold air intakes usually makes more power as a rule.

I will just bite the bullet and try the AFE filter on my 5.0. The stock air box do have very small inlets holes that reduces airflow regardless of the piping used or filter inside the boxes. I am sure that is flows enough air as designed for the engine, but a little more CFM from a less restrictive path could not hurt.

The inlet in one of my airboxes. Not very large and it also connects to a tube and baffle box under the bumper. Very restrictive. The cone/oval filter will pull in air without much restriction.
 
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Great article. Got my thinking that I may try the large oval Corvette filter on the throttle body and see how it goes. It seems that increased air flow can still make more power than stock even if the air is warmer. I read similar results before on other tests over the years about short ram intakes, however cold air intakes usually makes more power as a rule.

I will just bite the bullet and try the AFE filter on my 5.0. The stock air box do have very small inlets holes that reduces airflow regardless of the piping used or filter inside the boxes. I am sure that is flows enough air as designed for the engine, but a little more CFM from a less restrictive path could not hurt.

The inlet in one of my airboxes. Not very large and it also connects to a tube and baffle box under the bumper. Very restrictive. The cone/oval filter will pull in air without much restriction.

I am thinking something very similar. That i had skimmed that article in the past, but never read it in detail until yesterday. Definitely has me rethinking my intake setup.

I still want to avoid open filters in the engine bay, but i am seriously looking to get rid of the stock boxes as they are a, if not the, MAJOR bottleneck on any intake system.
 
Well, I pulled the trigger and bought a AFE Dry version of the large (14 in)Corvette filter and a 4in to 3.5in reducer just in case since the intake kit comes with a 4in coupler, so I assume that the filter has a 4in connection. I will also do my coolant bypass after I get a good IAT reading with just the AFE filter to see if the coolant by pass help cool down the air going into the throttle body. The only issue that I may have would the PCV connector size on the filter being too big, so I may have use an adapter for that as well.

I will post it in a short ram thread that will start a major debate I am sure.
 
Well, I pulled the trigger and bought a AFE Dry version of the large (14 in)Corvette filter and a 4in to 3.5in reducer just in case since the intake kit comes with a 4in coupler, so I assume that the filter has a 4in connection. I will also do my coolant bypass after I get a good IAT reading with just the AFE filter to see if the coolant by pass help cool down the air going into the throttle body. The only issue that I may have would the PCV connector size on the filter being too big, so I may have use an adapter for that as well.

I will post it in a short ram thread that will start a major debate I am sure.
If you don't take pictures it obviously never happened
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Well, I pulled the trigger and bought a AFE Dry version of the large (14 in)Corvette filter and a 4in to 3.5in reducer just in case since the intake kit comes with a 4in coupler, so I assume that the filter has a 4in connection. I will also do my coolant bypass after I get a good IAT reading with just the AFE filter to see if the coolant by pass help cool down the air going into the throttle body. The only issue that I may have would the PCV connector size on the filter being too big, so I may have use an adapter for that as well.

I will post it in a short ram thread that will start a major debate I am sure.
Hey, if you wanted to start a new thread now, i'd be game to jump over there. It can be a general intake modification thread. I'll post pics and numbers for whatever modifications i make also.

I'm very interested in this because although i feel i have a pretty good grasp on the hows and whys of aftermarket intakes, i honestly dont know what configuration will work best on our cars.

No doubt a true cold air system would be best, but with that not available, whats the next best option. The part that the article doesn't go into is that the ecu advances and retards the ignition timing based on the intake air temps. Hotter air is more likely to prematurely detonate.

Its may be only a few hp difference in peak numbers, buts more than that when you're launching and the air isn't circulating in the engine bay. I would regularly see intake air temps of 120-130° at a stop light or the staging lanes with the short ram. It got all the way up to 150-160° if i idled for longer than an minute or two.
 
LOL. I am all about seeing the pics myself.:)

It may take a while to get started since the filter will not come until next month. When I say I going to do something, I do it. Plus, I really have not done much to my ride money wise so I can try out a filter and see how it does. I probably can get my money back with Amazon if I do not like it.;)
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Hey, if you wanted to start a new thread now, i'd be game to jump over there. It can be a general intake modification thread. I'll post pics and numbers for whatever modifications i make also.

I'm very interested in this because although i feel i have a pretty good grasp on the hows and whys of aftermarket intakes, i honestly dont know what configuration will work best on our cars.

No doubt a true cold air system would be best, but with that not available, whats the next best option. The part that the article doesn't go into is that the ecu advances and retards the ignition timing based on the intake air temps. Hotter air is more likely to prematurely detonate.

Its may be only a few hp difference in peak numbers, buts more than that when you're launching and the air isn't circulating in the engine bay. I would regularly see intake air temps of 120-130° at a stop light or the staging lanes with the short ram. It got all the way up to 150-160° if i idled for longer than an minute or two.
Hence why I am doing the coolant bypass on the throttle body. If you look at a IAT reading on a stock engine the temp will be a consistent 120-130F by design due to the hot(200F+ degree) coolant flowing through the throttle body for better fuel economy I read as well as to prevent throttle plate icing in very cold regions. I live in George so I most likely will never drive my cars in below zero temps for icing issues to occur in my area. My Cadillac IAT dropped to about 89F as opposed to 120F+ with the coolant bypassed from the throttle body.

My main point is that cars that have hot coolant flowing through the throttle body will always have a higher IAT regardless of intake used which will hover around 120 degrees or maybe less with a really good CAI setup that will lower the IAT temps. Yes, I will make a boat load more power if I can install the oval filter in the bumper somewhere I believe, however I am sure that my engine will still feel stronger and have a better throttle response with the new filter even if it pulls in hot air.

Time will tell. I will just keep my posts here since starting a new thread will just attract all the "negative " comments from members who do not believe in aftermarket parts potential for unleashing bottled-up power in stock engines.

The two hoses at the bottom of the throttle body is what I will disconnect and join together with a connector.
 
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Hence why I am doing the coolant bypass on the throttle body. If you look at a IAT reading on a stock engine the temp will be a consistent 120-130F by design due to the hot(200F+ degree) coolant flowing through the throttle body for better fuel economy I read as well as to prevent throttle plate icing in very cold regions. I live in George so I most likely will never drive my cars in below zero temps for icing issues to occur in my area. My Cadillac IAT dropped to about 89F as opposed to 120F+ with the coolant bypassed from the throttle body.

My main point is that cars that have hot coolant flowing through the throttle body will always have a higher IAT regardless of intake used which will hover around 120 degrees or maybe less with a really good CAI setup that will lower the IAT temps. Yes, I will make a boat load more power if I can install the oval filter in the bumper somewhere I believe, however I am sure that my engine will still feel stronger and have a better throttle response with the new filter even if it pulls in hot air.

Time will tell. I will just keep my posts here since starting a new thread will just attract all the "negative " comments from members who do not believe in aftermarket parts potential for unleashing bottled-up power in stock engines.

The two hoses at the bottom of the throttle body is what I will disconnect and join together with a connector.

I did the coolant bypass last year when i fabricated the new intake. I'll take some temperature readings this weekend and see where its at.

This was an easy thing to manipulate in my Avalon. It had a mass air flow sensor in the intake hose, before the throttle body, that also takes the intake air temperature. Put the filter where it can get fresh air, insulate the intake hose so it stays cool, car reads it before it even makes it to the engine. BOOM... More powah!

Our cars have a manifold absolute pressure and an intake air temperature sensor... Neither of which are in the intake hose. Where are they??? That matters. If the air tem sensor is say in the rear of the upper intake manifold, or even the lower intake manifold, then there isn't a lot we can do to lower intake temps. At least not before the computer reads the temps and adjusts the timing accordingly.

Edit: after literally 5 minutes on google, i see that the map sensor is a few inches behind the throttle body in the upper intake manifold.
 
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Project is a no go. I repeat. No go. I just check the hood clearance and the large AFE air filter will just barely fit with the hood closed. Therefore it will only pull in air from three sides. Plus the filter will sit literally in front the radiator fan by an inch. The space in the engine bay is tighter than I imagined. The filter will fit I believe with some tweaking, but it will not have any chance to pull in enough air as it could while just pulling hot engine bay air at that. Project a bust because it would be a waste of time and money since the filter will be nearly pressing against the hood.

The best method is to use a y-pipe and two large filters on the ends that goes behind the headlights for cooler air flow. I will have to do some more research and come up with a system that will work. It will not be a easy project from what I see.

Good news, Amazon customer service will credit me my money if the third party seller refuses to accept a refund for the filter. Even told me that I can keep the filter if the third party refused to accept returns if they get involved. I had a similar issue happened before where I gained a free 15in Kicker subwoofer when a third party seller refused to accept a return.
 
Project is a no go. I repeat. No go. I just check the hood clearance and the large AFE air filter will just barely fit with the hood closed. Therefore it will only pull in air from three sides. Plus the filter will sit literally in front the radiator fan by an inch. The space in the engine bay is tighter than I imagined. The filter will fit I believe with some tweaking, but it will not have any chance to pull in enough air as it could while just pulling hot engine bay air at that. Project a bust because it would be a waste of time and money since the filter will be nearly pressing against the hood.

The best method is to use a y-pipe and two large filters on the ends that goes behind the headlights for cooler air flow. I will have to do some more research and come up with a system that will work. It will not be a easy project from what I see.

Good news, Amazon customer service will credit me my money if the third party seller refuses to accept a refund for the filter. Even told me that I can keep the filter if the third party refused to accept returns if they get involved. I had a similar issue happened before where I gained a free 15in Kicker subwoofer when a third party seller refused to accept a return.

Funny, i was just looking under my hood today measuring for intake options, also. Obstacles for puting filters behind the headlights are those strut braces. Your intake tube will have to fit beneath those.

I agree that cone filters behind the headlights appears to be our best bet, for both generations, as long as we can fashion an effective heat shield.
 
Funny, i was just looking under my hood today measuring for intake options, also. Obstacles for puting filters behind the headlights are those strut braces. Your intake tube will have to fit beneath those.

I agree that cone filters behind the headlights appears to be our best bet, for both generations, as long as we can fashion an effective heat shield.
Spot on. I really took a good look today and mapped out a possible" functional" cold air intake system that will actually provide some gains to engine power by pulling cooler air. You are correct about the upper chassis bracing being the main obstacle. Heat shields and splash would not be needed since the Genesis does have under-body covers to protect from water intrusion from splashing. If the car drive in water high enough to reach the headlights then hydro-locking the engine would be the least of my worries.

Well, if I do a project then I will do it right I suppose. Quick and easy usually never work out for me most of the time.
 
Taking our time and doing it right is a must. At least we dont have to reinvent the wheel. Between my custom intake , and Cali Gen's awesome custom heat shield, this project has been done before, just on 2 separate cars.

The only "challenge" is mixing these 2 projects and getting them to fit together in the DH 5.0... which i suspect wont be much of a challenge at all.
 
Taking our time and doing it right is a must. At least we dont have to reinvent the wheel. Between my custom intake , and Cali Gen's awesome custom heat shield, this project has been done before, just on 2 separate cars.

The only "challenge" is mixing these 2 projects and getting them to fit together in the DH 5.0... which i suspect wont be much of a challenge at all.
I was thinking that I would use a y-pipe and additional pipe sections like you have done already. My change would be to use 45 degree bent pipes with some supports welded on to them that places a couple of large cone filters just under the headlights. I will remove the factory air boxes completely. So far that is my plan. Once I get my Amazon refund money I will talk to a local shop about cutting the pipes and welding the mounting supports so that the supports matches a stock air-box bolt hole location for mounting. I will also ask if they can add a thermal coating to the piping to clean up the look.

Hopefully I can get it all done for about $300 total. The y-pipe and 45 degree sections can be gotten for about $100. The custom work is what is going to cost the most money. Heats shield can added later.
 
Please post lots of pics or getting the stock boxes and ducts out and what space is left when its all removed. That would be very helpful. Thanks.
 
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