What did you do with your DH Genesis today?

[carguy75]

What happened? Couldn’t tell from odometer photo.

Damn. I thought I did very frequent oil changes at 4k miles with synthetic oil. But you sir have me beat at 1k miles.

That engine will look new forever internally.

 

[carguy75]

Pick up my ride from the collision shop. They fixed the minor fender damage and fully restored my scuffed wheel and the existing curb damage. Good as new. I am a happy camper.

Brand new looking front wheel and fender.


Scuffed wheel and dented fender.

 

[Scottish Guy]

Never seen the point of changing the oil at less than the recommended intervals unless you are keeping the car till it falls apart, I'll be selling the car long before any engine problems manifest themselves, an oil change every year, or 10k miles is fine.

 

[carguy75]

Never seen the point of changing the oil at less than the recommended intervals unless you are keeping the car till it falls apart, I'll be selling the car long before any engine problems manifest themselves, an oil change every year, or 10k miles is fine.

I agree with you if you are selling the car at 100k miles or soon after, however 10k mile oil changes will most likely cause the plastic timing chain guides to wear down and crack which will require an replacement near 150k miles. BMW had problems for a while(up to 2013 V8 engines) with their timing chain guides due to lengthy oil change intervals. The same for Audi, Land Rover, Jaguar, etc. Just look it up.

I am planning on keep my car until it reach about 200k miles or more due to not wanting anymore car payments for a while after this car is paid off. Therefore, I will do the one thing that is known to minimize major engine and transmission issues which is change the fluids regularly before the engine reaches 100k miles. Shorter oil changes reduce wear from using old oil that do not clean nor lubricate the engine properly.

The same goes for transmission fluid, waiting to after 100k miles to change the fluid means that the transmission has already begin to wear down due to the old fluid losing it ability to protect the internal parts. The filter will also be full of contaminates so the fluid flow will be reduced which also causes wear. Not a problem if the car will be sold soon after 100k miles on the original fluid, but could be problem for someone else that may want to drive the car pass 100k miles.

 

[Scottish Guy]

Interesting reply, and I can see the logic.

Not sure what legislation you have in Georgia, but an annual road-worthiness test is compulsory in the UK for cars of 3 years and older.

Even taking into account the average annual mileage is probably higher in the US than the UK even if a car could reach 200k miles with original trans and engine, stringent exhaust emission tests, braking tests, body rot due to our UK weather and component wear makes keeping a daily used commuting car longer than 10 years prohibitive financially, it's not worth saving the engine from wear if the cost of passing the annual test gets more expensive year on year.

 

[EdP]

Interesting reply, and I can see the logic.

Not sure what legislation you have in Georgia, but an annual road-worthiness test is compulsory in the UK for cars of 3 years and older.

About 20 states require inspection, the others, none. Most have found it is a wast of money and cars are no safer for it.
When I lived in PA, years ago it was twice a year and was done by private garages. Talk about opportunists. We had three cars in the family. One shop we found got everyone for a headlight adjustment to make a couple extra bucks. Another shop may push wiper blade refills, but some shady shops would tell you you needed steering linkage bushings, drag link, ball joints, etc that the average guy would not know how to verify.

In NJ, the inspection was done by state employees with no financial stake in the outcome. A friend took his car and it failed. He sent his wife wearing a low cut blouse and the car would pass.

There was always a way around it too. Stolen or counterfeit stickers can be found easily too. Today, with scanners and printers you could turn them out by the thousands.

 

[carguy75]

Interesting reply, and I can see the logic.

Not sure what legislation you have in Georgia, but an annual road-worthiness test is compulsory in the UK for cars of 3 years and older.

Even taking into account the average annual mileage is probably higher in the US than the UK even if a car could reach 200k miles with original trans and engine, stringent exhaust emission tests, braking tests, body rot due to our UK weather and component wear makes keeping a daily used commuting car longer than 10 years prohibitive financially, it's not worth saving the engine from wear if the cost of passing the annual test gets more expensive year on year.

We only have emission testing in Georgia. Therefore, you can drive any car you want no matter the age if it can pass an emission test. Even though I like to own late model cars; I have noticed that it is cheaper to own a older car that is paid off if it is in good mechanical condition. Hence, why I am taking good care of the engine and transmission in my 2015 Genesis before it gets to 100k miles. Whats cheaper? Paying $500 or more a month plus auto insurance or just paying auto insurance and zero car payments?

I like my Genesis, so I will just maintain it and see how long it will last. My goal is 200k miles, but I may even try for 500k miles if the engine keep going.

Changing the fluids early does not guarantee than my engine and transmission will be trouble-free before 200k miles, but make more sense than never changing the transmission fluid for 100k miles or more while running oil in the engine until it breaks down before changing it and expecting the engine to run well pass 100k miles.

 

[EdP]

I like my Genesis, so I will just maintain it and see how long it will last. My goal is 200k miles, but I may even try for 500k miles if the engine keep going.

Smart thing to do. I'm on my third "last car" and yes, I'm taking care of it just in case it is. Since I retired the miles have gone way down so that is in my favor.

Buying used is generally a better fiscal decision, but i wanted what I wanted and have been buying new and taking the depreciation hits. The best value is to buy new, get what you want, drive it for as long as it runs and take the scrap value when it finally dies. I have done that with a couple of cars.

You should be able to get the 200k and with a few bigger repairs along the way, 500k in not impossible.

 

[carguy75]

Smart thing to do. I'm on my third "last car" and yes, I'm taking care of it just in case it is. Since I retired the miles have gone way down so that is in my favor.

Buying used is generally a better fiscal decision, but i wanted what I wanted and have been buying new and taking the depreciation hits. The best value is to buy new, get what you want, drive it for as long as it runs and take the scrap value when it finally dies. I have done that with a couple of cars.

You should be able to get the 200k and with a few bigger repairs along the way, 500k in not impossible.

I feel you. I have been trying to stop buying new and semi-new cars for a while now. New cars has been my most unwise purchases since I see how much the cars I buy new depreciate in only three years.

This car has been a good purchase used, but it still losses value pretty quick if I check the trade-in values. However, I will just bite the bullet and stick with this car. I have not owned my own car since my 1999 Toyota Camry XLE V6 I paid off years ago. Ever since that car I have been jumping from car to car one loan after another for nearly 14 years.

I make more money now since I owned the Camry, but I am wondering how it would feel to pocket about $500 a month extra every month.

 

[Lord Humunculous]

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[Lord Humunculous]

An oil change at 1000 miles ?

break in change, some do it at 600 (as many hyundai manuals state the break in period is), I just happened to do it at 1k

 

[Lord Humunculous]

Damn. I thought I did very frequent oil changes at 4k miles with synthetic oil. But you sir have me beat at 1k miles.

That engine will look new forever internally.

nah, just the first, i do every 5k with redline, but yes, it should be a long lived motor, but at 2 yrs old, i only have slightly less than 17k miles on it since I also drive my volvo quite a bit, so it may be a while before I see 100k or more

 

[carguy75]

break in change, some do it at 600 (as many hyundai manuals state the break in period is), I just happened to do it at 1k

I understand. I did the same type of oil change to my last engine that I purchased new. I changed my 2014 Optima SXL 2.0T oil at 2k miles just after the break-in to remove the factory filled oil. I babied that engine even though I sold it three years later to buy a larger 2014 buick Lacrosse Premium that was priced to move.

 

[Monkey]

Recently acquired (new to me CPO) 2015 3.8 AWD Ultimate, Black w/Black int.

1. debadged, added new '17 wing emblems only
2. WeatherTech floor mats, cargo liner
3. Diamond Gloss polish/detail

Wishlist: convert center rad grill to G80 Sport mesh style, Sport quad exhaust tips, paint calipers

How do you like the Weathertech mats? Good fit and feel?

 

[Monkey]

Went on a bit of a shopping spree. Weathertech floor mats, Snow tires on wheels with TPMS sensors & LED blinkers

Are you satisfied with the
weathertechs?

 

[Monkey]

TuxMats out of stock presently.

I stopped in at Tuxmat in Markham,Ontario on Thursday and they had 16 Genesis awd in stock. The mats look good ish... I still can’t decide between Weathertech and them

 

[Gunny]

I gave up on changing my own oil [for modern cars - still do it for my bike] years ago. What is this piece of equipment? Would it simplify the task?

 

[carguy75]

It is an oil extractor or pump. Mostly used by boat owners to pull oil from the oil fill opening in the engine. I use a smaller unit to drain my lawnmower oil.
Works great for anyone that does not want to crawl under a car, however the owner of that Genesis in the picture still had to crawl under the car to remove the oil filter and remove the lower body panel so I do not know it was worth the effort using the extractor. I hope he/she changed the oil filter after suctioning the oil.

 

[Lord Humunculous]

i didnt go underr in that particular case, you can slip a little tin foil pn under the filter and get it out from the top, but it's all just not worth it. I'm not THAT busy, so my last two have been at a local shop and I use their 4 post to just do it normally, costs less than 20 bux for the garage time and ive gotten pretty quick at it. More than anything else it is just tedious, but it really is good to get under the car periodically and do a visual check on things. Having that pump is still quite useful, excellent buy imo

 

[Gunny]

i didnt go underr in that particular case, you can slip a little tin foil pn under the filter and get it out from the top, but it's all just not worth it. I'm not THAT busy, so my last two have been at a local shop and I use their 4 post to just do it normally, costs less than 20 bux for the garage time and ive gotten pretty quick at it. More than anything else it is just tedious, but it really is good to get under the car periodically and do a visual check on things. Having that pump is still quite useful, excellent buy imo

Thanks for the responses. You guys are awesome!!!