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Dead pedal / “Engine falls flat” potential fix..

In order to assist others who are experiencing this issue, please contribute:


  • Total voters
    79
Well done and :welcome:, this is another great idea to address this issue while building on the same basic concept.

All I ask is for you to vote/update the poll, so we can collectively track the issue (with 0.5 second as completely resolved the issue, 1 sec reduced the issue and 2.0 seconds has no noticeable effect).

I am planing to make a big tally to supplement the poll as soon as I have few hours to spare :)..

Thanks for the welcome.
I voted earlier but chose the 2nd/reduced the issue choice. I see from your specification of .5 seconds I should have chosen 1st/completely resolved choice. Feel free to change that when you do your final tally.
 
Thanks for the welcome.
I voted earlier but chose the 2nd/reduced the issue choice. I see from your specification of .5 seconds I should have chosen 1st/completely resolved choice. Feel free to change that when you do your final tally.

+1
 
Re: Secondary air door/A.K.A Flapper door Experiment

I did a version of the mod. Today I installed my drop in K&N air filter, removed the flapper door and reversed one of the magnets so it forces the door to stay open partially and presumably very little vacuum would open it fully. I don't notice a difference yet but I just drove down to the car wash and back. Might take awhile for the computer to learn the new airflow. I might use my OBDII scanner and reset the computer. One thing I did notice is that it seems the transmission is revving higher before shifting but I chalk this up to the computer being used to the flapper being closed most of the time.
 
Re: Secondary air door/A.K.A Flapper door Experiment

At some point I might just take the door out completely as it seems useless.
 
Wow! 50$ and a WORLD of difference!

So, just got back from a little cruise after installing my new K&N drop-in filter, and reversing the polarity on the flapper door magnet, and I was grinning from ear to ear the first time I punched it! It has a nice pronounced intake sound now, I love it. sounds so BEAST! Did it add any HP, who knows, probably not, but the sound has me feeling good, and it was already plenty fast.

Also, picked up my Dynomax VT mufflers tonight too, so on her one week birthday tomorrow, she will officially be freed from that quiet prison!

Pretty excited right now! :D
 
Re: Secondary air door/A.K.A Flapper door Experiment

I'm completely blown away Hyundai would engineer an intake like this. This has to be the #1 most important mod anyone should do.
 
Re: Secondary air door/A.K.A Flapper door Experiment

On my 2011 4.6 I pulled the flapper out completely, and at that time I removed that foam extra filter.
I dont recall if the car ever had trouble spinning the tires, stock size tires seem to spin very easy. With the exhaust work I have now I spin 255/45/18s like there is ice on the road, and this is in Florida.
I did the esc remove fuse hit the button replace fuse and went for a drive. I had tire smoke rolling so thick I could not see 12 feet behind the car.
 
I don't know why most people wouldn't just remove the flapper door magnet or the entire door. The first way at least the door is still in place to shield from heat, and when the engine accelerates it easily opens that door for air. Kind of best of both worlds imo.
 
I don't know why most people wouldn't just remove the flapper door magnet or the entire door. The first way at least the door is still in place to shield from heat, and when the engine accelerates it easily opens that door for air. Kind of best of both worlds imo.

Because the analysis started in this thread and the discussion throughout both threads in regards to removing the door altogether, here is a summery:

- May have some negative impact, potentially more air hot is pulled from the engine bay (path of least resistance) while stuck in traffic for example.

- Shortening the life of filter.

- Additional cabin noise.

Either method works fine, reversing the magnet method corrects an assembly issue, while removing the flapper altogether is going around the issue by fundamentally changing Hyundai intended design.

In my opinion, it is better left for each member to select the best method that is suited for their needs / feel comfortable with..

Thank you for updating the poll, I the correct selection would have been CAI / Remove Flapper ;)
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Because the analysis started in this thread and the discussion throughout both threads in regards to removing the door altogether, here is a summery:

- May have some negative impact, potentially more air hot is pulled from the engine bay (path of least resistance) while stuck in traffic for example.

- Shortening the life of filter.

- Additional cabin noise.

Either method works fine, reversing the magnet method corrects an assembly issue, while removing the flapper altogether is going around the issue by fundamentally changing Hyundai intended design.

In my opinion, it is better left for each member to select the best method that is suited for their needs / feel comfortable with..

Thank you for updating the poll, I the correct selection would have been CAI / Remove Flapper ;)
Any issues with just removing the magnet on the door flapper only? It also lightens up the door quite a bit.
 
Any issues with just removing the magnet on the door flapper only? It also lightens up the door quite a bit.

Excellent suggestion, as it is the best of both worlds and may solve both sets of issues.... :D

That is why I love this forum, some one comes up with a problem, others take upon themselves to try to find out why and then everyone collectively come up with ever better solutions to the original problem....
 
Re: Secondary air door/A.K.A Flapper door Experiment

I was also having the dead pedal feel from a punch. You could flat foot it and it would react slow and fade in power quickly after delay. I did not want to remove flap door or keep it partially open with sticky felt pad. I took the top magnet out and cut it in half. I then removed bottom half magnet and put up in case i need it later. I install half in top and half in bottom to where the door stays close but needs lot less force to open and makes flap lighter also.. took it for a test drive on about 5 hits from dead stop it responds instant with no lag and actually squeals tires briefly. Cruising speeds if you floor it, it responds fast. So far it is a major improvement and best of all FREE
This was on a 2014 v6 sedan
 
Re: Secondary air door/A.K.A Flapper door Experiment

Huge THANKS for finding this mod!

After reading all the posts I removed the flapper altogether and then tested it.
I am now grinning from ear to ear as that was the most fun I've had in my Genesis as it used to lag for a couple seconds to take off from a rolling stop or from dead stop and now feels much more responsive.
I noticed very little to no lag now and it was fun feeling the car take off like it should've all this time. The neighbors faces amused me as I was testing this around the neighborhood lol. Thanks again!
 
For those that flipped both magnets over - how did you remove the magnet on the bottom? I easily removed the magnet on the flapper door, but for the life of me I couldn't tell how to get the other one out! I read through this thread and couldn't find a clear answer. Thanks in advance.
 
Re: Secondary air door/A.K.A Flapper door Experiment

On my v6 i used a thin flat head screwdriver to pry the one on flap door and the bottom one out. It was tight fit plastic tray the magnet sat in. The bottom tray does not have slits in it like the flap door. Just wedge flat head in the center to pry the tray out.
 
I'm going to do some experimenting this weekend. I've read all the post on this thread and I've come up with some theories. Some of this is common sense

Flapper Completely Removed: If you remove the flapper you will get much better throttle response. I agree with that, but you will most likely see a small decrease in gas mileage. Thats because the flapper does help steady the gas mileage. I've been monitoring this closely for a week now. I do mixed highway & city driving. I average about 25-27mpg. The flapper tries to create a smoother acceleration instead of the instant throttle response w/o flapper. With instant throttle you're going to see a decrease in MPG.

I'm going to try the flapless method and see what happens.
 
Hello Everyone,
Been watching this thread.
I reversed one magnet only. The one in the door.
It has a red mark on it.
The magnets are no reverse polarized and has flapper open about a
half an inch to an inch.
Have not tried on long stretch of I-10 but i can feel a difference in
normal acceleration. It seems to me that the car is coasting longer because
transmission is not lowering gears with engine shutting down from being smothered.
Could be my imagination.
I will check milage as well.
 
I'm curious if this is a mod that is applicable to the 2015 models. Has anybody actually tried it on a 2015?
 
I don't know about this fix.... for months I drove around with the magnets reversed in polarity so the door would stay open. I still experienced a little dead pedal although it was improved. A week ago I swapped my K&N drop in filter back in and removed the flapper door completely. Not much change but I still get the dead pedal problem and THIS is when it happens....

When I stop quick and go to take off again. I think this is a transmission problem or programming problem and NOT an engine air intake problem. I don't think our 8 speed transmissions get back to first gear quick enough. If I am driving through a neighborhood, come to a quick stop at a sign and punch the gas pedal there is at least a 2 second delay where the car does NOTHING. The engine doesn't rev, it just sits there thinking about what to do. Eventually the transmission gets to first gear and the car takes off. This isn't such an issue driving around a neighborhood but it can be on the highway when navigating through heavy traffic, quick stop plus heavy acceleration to merge to another lane and the car just sits there annoyingly.

I think the programming on these cars is horrible too. It reminds me of my trailblazer. GM designed the programing so that only 70 or 80 percent of the power would go to the rear wheels when you punched it from a stop. This was of course done only to improve the life of the drivetrain components. I think Hyundai is doing the same thing.
 
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