• Car enthusiast? Join us on Cars Connected! iOS | Android | Desktop
  • Hint: Use a descriptive title for your new message
    If you're looking for help and want to draw people in who can assist you, use a descriptive subject title when posting your message. In other words, "I need help with my car" could be about anything and can easily be overlooked by people who can help. However, "I need help with my transmission" will draw interest from people who can help with a transmission specific issue. Be as descriptive as you can. Please also post in the appropriate forum. The "Lounge" is for introducing yourself. If you need help with your G70, please post in the G70 section - and so on... This message can be closed by clicking the X in the top right corner.

oil change and...did I do filter right?

hokie1525

Registered Member
Joined
Apr 21, 2016
Messages
100
Reaction score
1
Points
18
So I went ahead and did the first oil change at 2k miles. Mobil 1 5w30. I used to use it in my 2002 Maxima and drove it to high mileage, so I believe in it.

Ok, so I made the stupid mistake of not paying close attention to the "before", so two questions?

1) Does it matter which way you install the filter canister itself into the housing? It looks almost symmetrical.

2) I did my filter change from the top. Not a great deal of room for torque. I didn't have the right size socket (I think I need 27mm), so I used an adjustable wrench. I'm not sure I got it in all the way. Feels like maybe 1mm gap between the lip of the canister housing and the end of where it screws in for it to be flush. Will that be ok, or will I be leaking oil when I start this thing up? PS, I hate plastic threads...
 
Looking to update and upgrade your Genesis luxury sport automobile? Look no further than right here in our own forum store - where orders are shipped immediately!
I didn't have too much trouble getting mine flush (I felt with my fingers in a specific spot before and after). Did you lube the new oring? I wonder if it got out of track and into the threads. Let's say that happened and it was not a tight seal, I am gonna guess the motor will see incorrect oil pressure and warn you. And yeah, 27mm. I used a chrome single socket from my local sears and a reversible breaker bar. No there is not a lot of room, but it can be done, even with a small torque wrench at the end.

as far as "right way" to load the filter, no, you're good, either way is fine, just got to make it "pop" over the little lip in the bottom.
 
I got the right socket and was able to tighten it better. It was very difficult to get off originally, so it may be because I didn't have the right tool.

I did not lube, but will next time. I've driven 10+ miles and no sign of leak or oil pressure issue. So I think it's good.
 
When you snug the filter down, it is rather tight as the o-ring squeezes itself. Keep going and you will feel it bottom out when you are done. On the V8 the filter is symetrical and thank god, could you imagine all the problems with some of the incompetent mechanics out there istalling it backwards? It would be a nightmare.
 
To my knowledge - all of the hyundai cartridge filters are symmetrical as noted above.

The O-Rings should be lubricated - one of the few useful things in my shop manual

And, the filter caps have to be torqued until they stop rotating.

If it's any comfort, the job is a lot tougher on the V8's. I've got both.
 
So far I haven't had any problems. I think it was just tight because I didn't have the right tool, and I didn't lube the threads and o-ring. Lesson learned for next time.
 
I did mine the first time and did not get it tight enough on first try. Cranked car and there was a drip of oil coming out so I tightened a little more and no leak found. Those plastic threads scared me so I did not want to over tighten and I don't have a torque wrench. Make sure and check for leaks before re-installing that shroud underneath.
 
So I went ahead and did the first oil change at 2k miles. Mobil 1 5w30. I used to use it in my 2002 Maxima and drove it to high mileage, so I believe in it.

Ok, so I made the stupid mistake of not paying close attention to the "before", so two questions?

1) Does it matter which way you install the filter canister itself into the housing? It looks almost symmetrical.

2) I did my filter change from the top. Not a great deal of room for torque. I didn't have the right size socket (I think I need 27mm), so I used an adjustable wrench. I'm not sure I got it in all the way. Feels like maybe 1mm gap between the lip of the canister housing and the end of where it screws in for it to be flush. Will that be ok, or will I be leaking oil when I start this thing up? PS, I hate plastic threads...
As stated earlier, I also think it is symmetric.

Regarding not quite tight. The o-ring seal doesn't rely on the housing being fully tightened to seal. However, the housing is more likely to slowly vibrate loose, if it is not snugged up. (Think of a nut that is not snugged up). With all of the o-ring friction, the chances of a problem may be low. If it is fully tightened, the chances are near zero of vibrating loose.
 
Time for another oil change so I am searching back for reference information. My last two oil changes were done at the dealer and this time I am going to do it myself again. I ordered a 27mm socket for the filter cap. I was using an adjustable wrench before and was afraid I would eventually round off the nut and make my filter cap unusable and in need of replacement.
I don't much care for this cartridge type system although it may be good for the car if done right it is not non-mechanic user-friendly. I had a car once, think it was my 86 RX7, that had a oil filter on top of the motor. No spills and easy access!
Anyway, I am going to use 5w30 synthetic and I ordered a Kia 26320-3C30A, Engine Oil Filter from Amazon. I hope that is the right filter! (2012 Genesis 3.8L v6)
... I know this thread is old but you never know when someone will come here to search for information. :unsure:
 
Back
Top