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First oil change

That's BS from them. You can swap to synthetic oil at any time but the faster you do it the better. All you need to do is a maintenance schedule according to your needs, example, if you plan to use synthetic and want to change oil every 5000 miles then you swap to synthetic at 3000 miles and the next oil change should be done 5000 miles ahead , in this case at 8000 miles, the next at 12000 miles and so on. Keep a log and that's it.
 
I disagree slightly. I recommend "stretching" or "shrinking" the first couple OICs in order to get exactly on the 5,000 mile markers (15,000, 20,0000, etc.). Since other maintenance items (cabin air filter, engine air filter, coolant change, brake fluid change, etc.) are all on the 5,000 markers, putting the oil change there as well makes it easy to remember when its due, keeps the 3,000 mile banditry at bay, and synchs up with other maintenance chores.
 
Hey guys...just remember that all mobil 1 synthetic oil and most other brands that say synthetic oil is not a true synthetic anymore. The rules changed as to what you can call synthetic about 10 years ago so the mobil 1 synthetic of 2000 is different than the mobil 1 synthetic of today. The only true synthetic from mobil 1 is the extended performance and which is why they guarantee the 15k miles.

watch this and explains why a true synthetic can actually go longer https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tYkg0oDUXs8. Its not that it stays clear longer, but it keeps the viscosity more consistent and true longer.

If you guys are using mobil 1 or anything else that is not a true synthetic then I would change every 5k miles as it is somewhat synthetic and lasts longer than conventional oils. If you use any of the true synthetics like mobil 1 extended performance, ams oil, motul, redline then I would go 10k miles. Changing oil nowadays every 3500 miles seems a bit excessive unless you are using oil that costs $3 a quart, but it is your car and it doesnt hurt to change it early.
 
I got my genny first oil change today at our dealer @ 2440 miles. They were happy to oblige my request to use the Mobil1 ext perf oil I brought along (thanks to this forum suggestion). I was surprise that they did not charge me for the service since it was was my first oil change there.

Nhan
'16 3.8 Ultimate, Silver Santiago
 
Hey guys...just remember that all mobil 1 synthetic oil and most other brands that say synthetic oil is not a true synthetic anymore. The rules changed as to what you can call synthetic about 10 years ago so the mobil 1 synthetic of 2000 is different than the mobil 1 synthetic of today. The only true synthetic from mobil 1 is the extended performance and which is why they guarantee the 15k miles.
There are many dozens of posts on the 'Net about how synthetic Mobil 1 actually is. Mobil calls all their synthetics "full synthetics" on their web site.

In any case the Walmart price tag is $25.47 for the EP stuff vs. $22.88 for the plain vanilla Mobil 1 (5 qt jugs, 5W-30). EP is thus about 11% higher.

I've used regular Mobil 1 since 1975 with no complaints.
 
If you use any of the true synthetics like mobil 1 extended performance, ams oil, motul, redline then I would go 10k miles. Changing oil nowadays every 3500 miles seems a bit excessive unless you are using oil that costs $3 a quart, but it is your car and it doesnt hurt to change it early.
If you go 10k miles, would you void the manufacturers warranty that calls for an oil change every 7,500 miles or sooner in adverse driving conditions?
 
If you go 10k miles, would you void the manufacturers warranty that calls for an oil change every 7,500 miles or sooner in adverse driving conditions?
Yes. the warranty could be voided if Hyundai decided there was some problem caused by the oil (and failure to change it as required).
 
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If you guys are using mobil 1 or anything else that is not a true synthetic then I would change every 5k miles as it is somewhat synthetic and lasts longer than conventional oils. If you use any of the true synthetics like mobil 1 extended performance, ams oil, motul, redline then I would go 10k miles. Changing oil nowadays every 3500 miles seems a bit excessive unless you are using oil that costs $3 a quart, but it is your car and it doesnt hurt to change it early.
This has been discussed in several other threads over the years. While it is true that most Mobil 1 oils sold in the US now contain Group III components (severely hydrocracked mineral oil), in addition to Group IV PAO and Group V Esters, I am not sure about the information you presented on other motor oils (even though I realize it is taken as gospel on other forums).

Redline also has substantial Group III components.

Amsoil makes three different "synthetics" and only one of them uses only Group IV and Group V, and it is not API certified, and does not meet Hyundai specs for that reason. This is the classic bait and switch routine, where the only oil performance reports they publish are for the highest quality one, which most people don't buy because it is very expensive and not API certified.

I don't know about Motul.

Most synthetics sold in the US, including those from Pennzoil, QS, Castrol, Valvoline, etc, have no Group IV or V components (except maybe very small amounts in the additive package), and are entirely Group III. Mobil 1 is mix of Group III, IV, and V.

The amount of Group III, IV, and V components in Mobil 1 varies by the viscosity and the name of the product. For example the Mobil 0W-40 is entirely Group IV and V since it is designed for use by German cars. Although Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy oils have some Group III, they have more Group IV and V than most regular Mobil 1. As noted, Mobil EP has a higher amount of Group IV and V, but I believe it has some Group III also.

Due to advances in refining technology, Group III synthetic (severely hydrocracked mineral oil) can be made to closely resemble Group IV and V synthetics in terms of chemical structure and performance. Shell (including Pennzoil subsidiary) now makes Group III entirely out of natural gas. As you said, these are fine for 7500 mile or less oil changes, and significantly outperform conventional Group II motor oils as specified by Hyundai.

Hyundai, fearing that consumers will think that their cars will cost too much to maintain, still only requires Group II conventional oil. Toyota and Honda now require synthetic in almost all their vehicles, since they specify 0W-20 instead of 5W-20, and 0W-20 is only available as a synthetic.
 
I have 2600 on a new 2016 Genesis Coupe and just scheduled an oil & filter change for this coming week; and I ask if I could bring my own oil (I was planning on Mobil 1 EP) and they said that I could ... but, that they would wait until at least 5,000 to change to Full synthetic; they recommend using Semi-Synthetic. I would be very interested in the thoughts from this forum. Thank you
In the old days, there were some problems when switching to synthetic before the rings were seated, and synthetic is so slippery that in some cases it caused the rings to never seat properly. I am not sure that is as much of a problem on newer cars.

If you have driven your car briskly (at least occasionally) during the first 2600 miles, then the rings should be seated fine for you to switch now. I use Mobil 1 EP 5W-30 on my Genesis sedan V6, and it is the best oil and viscosity for that engine IMO.
 
There are many dozens of posts on the 'Net about how synthetic Mobil 1 actually is. Mobil calls all their synthetics "full synthetics" on their web site.
At one time an oil could only be called synthetic if it only contained Group IV PAO and Group V Esters. However, in the USA the FTC now allows oil with Group III severely cracked mineral oil to be called synthetic. This was the result of an infamous legal complaint by Mobil against Castrol's advertising (Castrol was the first to call Group III synthetic).

In some European countries (unless they changed very recently), a synthetic oil must still contain only Group IV PAO and Group V Esters.
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This has been discussed in several other threads over the years. While it is true that most Mobil 1 oils sold in the US now contain Group III components (severely hydrocracked mineral oil), in addition to Group IV PAO and Group V Esters, I am not sure about the information you presented on other motor oils (even though I realize it is taken as gospel on other forums).

Redline also has substantial Group III components.

Amsoil makes three different "synthetics" and only one of them uses only Group IV and Group V, and it is not API certified, and does not meet Hyundai specs for that reason. This is the classic bait and switch routine, where the only oil performance reports they publish are for the highest quality one, which most people don't buy because it is very expensive and not API certified.

I don't know about Motul.

Most synthetics sold in the US, including those from Pennzoil, QS, Castrol, Valvoline, etc, have no Group IV or V components (except maybe very small amounts in the additive package), and are entirely Group III. Mobil 1 is mix of Group III, IV, and V.

The amount of Group III, IV, and V components in Mobil 1 varies by the viscosity and the name of the product. For example the Mobil 0W-40 is entirely Group IV and V since it is designed for use by German cars. Although Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy oils have some Group III, they have more Group IV and V than most regular Mobil 1. As noted, Mobil EP has a higher amount of Group IV and V, but I believe it has some Group III also.

Due to advances in refining technology, Group III synthetic (severely hydrocracked mineral oil) can be made to closely resemble Group IV and V synthetics in terms of chemical structure and performance. Shell (including Pennzoil subsidiary) now makes Group III entirely out of natural gas. As you said, these are fine for 7500 mile or less oil changes, and significantly outperform conventional Group II motor oils as specified by Hyundai.

Hyundai, fearing that consumers will think that their cars will cost too much to maintain, still only requires Group II conventional oil. Toyota and Honda now require synthetic in almost all their vehicles, since they specify 0W-20 instead of 5W-20, and 0W-20 is only available as a synthetic.

Well what I was referring to about the other oils was the higher end models of those brands...for example the signature series of and oil. Mogul is not a well known brand but they make extremely high quality products as they mainly focus on professional products than consumer products as it seems.

But either way I was just trying to make a point that just because it says synthetic doesn't mean it's completely synthetic like they want you to believe. I'm not saying Mobil 1 is a bad oil but it's not the full synthetic where it consists completely of group iv oil like certain motul oils. Motul doesn't have any oil that consists of a base group oil...they only have group iv and group v oils.

As long as you guys change your oil accordingly it's fine...use conventional group ii oil then change every 3k miles, group iii 5-7k miles, group iv 10-15k miles and you will be ok.

Plus I highly doubt most people in here Kerri their cars for more than 150k miles or more. So it really doesn't matter lol...now a days engines are so well built that I'm sure cars would go 100k miles without an oil change lol(kidding).

Can't wait to get my car tomorrow...getting 2016 empire state gray with ivory...it was a demo driven by supposedly a manager for 2k miles so we will see. Hope everything is alright as I haven't ever bought a car used out of state like this. I'm really wishing it still has a new car smell but for some reason I doubt it
 
But either way I was just trying to make a point that just because it says synthetic doesn't mean it's completely synthetic like they want you to believe. I'm not saying Mobil 1 is a bad oil but it's not the full synthetic where it consists completely of group iv oil like certain motul oils. Motul doesn't have any oil that consists of a base group oil...they only have group iv and group v oils.
Understood. It was really Castrol who started calling Group III a synthetic, and Mobil originally objected. Even today, among the major oil brands that one would see at a retail store, Mobil 1 usually has the most Group IV and V components in the US (in some countries all synthetic must be Group IV and V only).

But due to improvements in refining technology, the definition of a "true" synthetic is not as clear as it once was, and it is not always clear which is better in all situations.
 
I went out to the Motul website (a French company) and looked around. After examining the Safety Data Sheet for several of their synthetic motor oils, including the one recommend for the Hyundai 2G Genesis V6 3.8L (Motul 8100 ECO-CLEAN+ 5W30), I found this as the main ingredient:

DISTILLATES (PETROLEUM), HYDROTREATED HEAVY PARAFFINIC
50 <= x % < 100 (between 50 and 100% of the total ingredients)​
This is a Group III synthetic. There may be (or may not be) some Group IV and V components also, but I cannot determine that because they are not usually required to be disclosed in Safety Data Sheet due to their non-hazardous nature.

Some of the Motul motor oils designed for MB and BMW may be all Group IV and V (like Mobil 1 0W-40) but I did not verify that. Unfortunately these "European Formula" oils are low emission oils that generally lack the same quantiles of zinc and phosphorus found in most motor oils for USA and Asian vehicles that help reduce friction and engine wear.
 
I went out to the Motul website (a French company) and looked around. After examining the Safety Data Sheet for several of their synthetic motor oils, including the one recommend for the Hyundai 2G Genesis V6 3.8L (Motul 8100 ECO-CLEAN+ 5W30), I found this as the main ingredient:

DISTILLATES (PETROLEUM), HYDROTREATED HEAVY PARAFFINIC
50 <= x % < 100 (between 50 and 100% of the total ingredients)​
This is a Group III synthetic. There may be (or may not be) some Group IV and V components also, but I cannot determine that because they are not usually required to be disclosed in Safety Data Sheet due to their non-hazardous nature.

Some of the Motul motor oils designed for MB and BMW may be all Group IV and V (like Mobil 1 0W-40) but I did not verify that. Unfortunately these "European Formula" oils are low emission oils that generally lack the same quantiles of zinc and phosphorus found in most motor oils for USA and Asian vehicles that help reduce friction and engine wear.

Well when my car gets here the first thing im doing is an oil change so you think mobil 1 extended performance is going to be my best bet? maybe even over the amsoil signature series that is suppose to last up to 25k miles? whether I go with mobil 1 extended or amsoil signature I am going to do oil changes every 10k miles.

Just want something that can go that long and hopefully mobil 1 comes out with an extended filter to go with the extended oil.
 
Well when my car gets here the first thing im doing is an oil change so you think mobil 1 extended performance is going to be my best bet? maybe even over the amsoil signature series that is suppose to last up to 25k miles? whether I go with mobil 1 extended or amsoil signature I am going to do oil changes every 10k miles.

Just want something that can go that long and hopefully mobil 1 comes out with an extended filter to go with the extended oil.
Yes, I think Mobil 1 EP (Extended Performance) is an excellent choice, and is what I use. About $25 per 5-quart jug at Walmart.

Amsoil Signature is not API certified and does not meet Hyundai specs.

I am not sure if you are getting a new car or pre-owned, or what country you live in. In the USA, you must change your oil at least once every 7500 miles to maintain the new car warranty. I am quite sure that Mobil 1 EP will last 10,000 miles, but if the engine is still under warranty then I would reconsider.
 
Just want something that can go that long and hopefully mobil 1 comes out with an extended filter to go with the extended oil.

There are Mobil filters - I used them in a Ford Taurus - but I doubt they're available for hyundai's.


https://mobiloil.com/en/oil-filters

They're quite heavy - for what that's worth - and cost 10-12 bucks apiece.
 
...hopefully mobil 1 comes out with an extended filter to go with the extended oil.
Go with the Hyundai OEM filter. It is a cartridge filter that fits inside a plastic canister, not like the normal spin-on metal filter.
 
Yes, I think Mobil 1 EP (Extended Performance) is an excellent choice, and is what I use. About $25 per 5-quart jug at Walmart.

Amsoil Signature is not API certified and does not meet Hyundai specs.

I am not sure if you are getting a new car or pre-owned, or what country you live in. In the USA, you must change your oil at least once every 7500 miles to maintain the new car warranty. I am quite sure that Mobil 1 EP will last 10,000 miles, but if the engine is still under warranty then I would reconsider.

Well how would they really know how often I changed it? Plus I dont really care about the engine warranty as I have yet to see an engine completely fail...and I doubt I will drive this car aggressively.

And with the warranty with the oil....they can only deny you warranty on the parts that were affected by the late oil changes...so if I never changed my oil and my transmission fails at 95k miles then I am still ok on the warranty for getting the transmission replaced.

Now if a piston fails in the engine then they will most definitely deny that claim lol. But again when using mobil 1 extended performance I can guaranty you that they will not know the age of the oil especially when we are talking about 7500 miles or 10,000 miles.

Thanks though I will definitely switch over to mobil 1 ep...i like that choice anyways because it is so readily available anywhere I go...by the way I live in northern va.
 
Now if a piston fails in the engine then they will most definitely deny that claim lol. But again when using mobil 1 extended performance I can guaranty you that they will not know the age of the oil especially when we are talking about 7500 miles or 10,000 miles.
They ask for receipts and proof. If they do the service there is no dispute. You could draw out your claim for weeks or months trying to substantiate the fact you serviced your vehicle according to the schedule.
 
Well how would they really know how often I changed it? Plus I dont really care about the engine warranty as I have yet to see an engine completely fail...and I doubt I will drive this car aggressively.
Hopefully it won't happen again, but Hyundai had to replace a bunch of 2012 5.0 V8 engines due to excessive oil usage.
 
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