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The 3.8 V6

I work at McCafferty Hyundai in Langhorne, PA... We just dealer traded a 3.8 V6 with Tech pkg from a dealer in State College PA (about 200 miles away) The vehicle was driven to our dealership and the average fuel economy for the trip was 30.2 mpg!
 
Great advice EdVoylesHyundai. I am impressed by your knowledge and mean no disrespect. It is good to know that there are some great dealerships out there that aren't just about making a quick buck, but understand that keeping your customers satisfied with their long term purchase and ownership of the vehicle brings more repeat and referral business from happy customers.

If I lived in GA I'd be happy to buy my 2011 Genesis from you. :)
 
Many people that live and drive in the city fall under the "severe" usage category and Hyundai most definitely recommends 3mo/3k oil change intervals. You may fall into this category at certain times of the year and not others. Don't think that b/c you change your oil once at 3k that you have to do it every time. If you take a roadtrip and spend a lot of time on the highway, you can probably extend your interval. Likewise, if your normal usage is "Normal" and you have a brutally cold winter with salt and snow and ice and you drive the car alot during this time, you may want to follow the "Severe" guidelines this time around.
IMO, if you use Mobil 1 or other quality full synthetic, you can easily go 7500 miles even when some of the "severe" conditions exist. And with a full synthetic, the oil will be in better condition at 7500 miles than conventional oil will be at 3000 miles.

The only thing that bothers me about many dealers (for all makes) is that when they do oil changes, the customer cannot watch what the service techs, and the dealer frequently likes to use a single oil viscosity for all cars because it is cheaper and more convenient to use bulk oil and they don't stock bulk oil in every viscosity. When I get an oil change I prefer to use Mobil 1 and I want to see them pour it out of Mobil 1 quart containers into the crankcase so I know they are using Mobil 1 and so I know what viscosity they are using.
 
I've worked for a Hyundai dealership as a svc advisor for the past 10yrs. We have always charged $23.95 for an oil change & $26.95 for a canister style (oil filter) oil change, like is in the Genesis. We take a loss every time we do an oil change, because there is no money to be made on this svc. Our oil change has never gone up since I've been here & out the door is approx $8 less than JiffyLube. The money is made on upsaling larger svcs or better yet big jobs, like timing belts or customer pay engine/transmission repairs. Most of you talk of other manufacturers oil change intervals, but keep in mind that most of those high end cars have sysnthetic oil in them where Hyundai does not. So, unless you switch to synthetic in your Genesis, you need to change your oil much more often. The correct interval for your oil change is 3,000-3,750 miles under most normal driving conditions (Which Hyundai refers to as severe).

Recommended interval for oil change according to owner's manual; has 2 scheduled intervals: 1) for normal driving conditions - every 7,500 mi & 2) for severe driving conditions - every 3,000 mi, although Hyundai will let you go up to 3,750 mi.

Qualifications for severe driving conditions as mentioned above by EdVoylesHyundai:
1) repeated driving of short distances of 5 mi or less in normal temperatures or less than 10 mi is freezing temperatures
2) extensive engine idling or low speed driving for long distances
3) driving on rough, dusty, muddy, unpaved, graveled or salt-spread roads
4) driving in areas using salt or other corrosive materials or in very cold weather
5) driving in sandy areas
6) driving in heavy traffic area over 90 degrees fareinheit
7) driving on uphill, downhill, or mountain road
8) towing a trailer, using a camper, or roof rack
9) driving as a patrol car, taxi, or other commercial use
10) driving over 106mph
11) frequently driving in stop & go conditions

This means severe driving conditions include in town driving, dirt road driving, up-north salt road driving, coastal beach area driving, hot southern or south western driving, mountainous driving, taking trips w/excessive luggage or something in tow, commercial driving/delivering, high speed +100mph driving.

I italicized the above to show you this qualifies 99% of us in one way or another to have our Hyundai's oil changed every 3,750 at most. Unless you are using synthetic oil, which the car does not original come with. If you switch to synthetic, then 7,500 mi intervals should be no problem. If you can not show that you have your oil changed during the correct intervals & engine sludging occurs with your vehicle, Hyundai will not warranty your engine. So, take my advice & change your oil no more than every 4,000 miles or every 4 months.

This is quoted directly from your owners manual on pg 7-11 under severe driving conditions.

How do I know this & why am I advising you? Because I'm a service advisor for a Hyundai dealership & have been for over 10yrs. I'm well versed in Hyundai's warranty & have seen many claims declined due to this exact problem (engine sludging). Engine sludging occurs one way, engine oil break down & that usually occurs from not doing your oil changes close enough together.

I don't want to see any of you have problems with your car or your warranty. You spent alot of money on the initial purchase of a really nice vehicle, take care of it & do the oil changes at regular intervals. They are not really all that expensive when viewed in the grand scheme of things.
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Couldn't wait

I had--and still have-- interest in the 3.8 L Coupe from Hyundai, but only in droptop form. Virtually nil by the company has been said about that possibility, but I think it would be fair to say that IF it happened, it would be after 2011.
I have a 2007 MX-5 Mazda that comes off lease in a few months. I had a t-top'ed 2002 Firehawk that I sold. I would not wait til 2011 to see a droptop Coupe.
Bought a 2009 Solstice GXP roadster (2.0L turbo, 260 hp, 260 torque). Blazing fast, with excellent cornering/stability. Will soon install GM Stage II turbo upgrade, bringing the car to 290 hp, 340 torque.
I realize they are apples and oranges, but if the Coupe can match the performance of the GXP, Hyundai will have a winner.
 
The Soltice & the MX5 are too small for my size & taste. I'm not overweight, just tall, about 6'2". I want to be comfortable in what ever I'm driving & I want a 2+2, so small 2 seaters are out of the question. Don't really need a convertable since one of my other cars is a Wrangler & from my understanding the convertable Genesis Coupe has been put on hold indefinately. I like a car about the size of a Mustang or GTO, but not weigh a ton.
 
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This is probably going to be the most popular engine option throughout the Hyundai Genesis offerings.. It's got a great mixture of power and economy. With 306 horsepower, it doesn't leave much to be desired in regards to performance. It'll be a great competitor to the Nissan Altima Coupe and 350Z right out of the box - while the turbo i4 will likely need some modification to keep up.

For those more interested in the luxury experience of the Genesis sedan, it'll be interesting to see how NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) of this powerplant turns out...

Discuss......

I have seen this 306 HP number before although I believe the V6 is rated at 290 HP. Is the 306 running Premium Fuel?..... an you run Premium fuel in the V6 and does it make any difference?
 
I have seen this 306 HP number before although I believe the V6 is rated at 290 HP. Is the 306 running Premium Fuel?..... an you run Premium fuel in the V6 and does it make any difference?
Are you talking about the Sedan or the Coupe? The Sedan V6 is 290 HP and is designed to run regular fuel. The Coupe 3.8 V6 is tuned differently for a little more HP up to 306 (not sure about fuel).
 
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I purchased a Genesis V6 about a month ago. I love the car and it turns a lot of heads. My problem is that the car seems to hesitate between 25-40mph. The car also does not seem to coast very well at these speeds. It does not happen all the time but enough where I have noticed. I took it back to the dealer and they claim that this is the regular car performance. Has anyone else had this type of issue or is it my imagination.
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I purchased a Genesis V6 about a month ago. I love the car and it turns a lot of heads. My problem is that the car seems to hesitate between 25-40mph. The car also does not seem to coast very well at these speeds. It does not happen all the time but enough where I have noticed. I took it back to the dealer and they claim that this is the regular car performance. Has anyone else had this type of issue or is it my imagination.
Does the hesitation coincide with the gear shifts? To meet fuel economy goals, the transmission will rapidly upshift to get to the top gear as quickly as possible. Each shift will cause slight hesitation and is normal.
 
You are experiencing engine breaking. My past 3 motorcycles did that also. You'll have to break less and the car keeps the revs in the right spot just in case you need to accelerate out of a situation. My Toyota Camry Hybrid has a push button function for it. It allows me to drive faster down mountains roads with very little breaking and oversteeing and keeps the HP and torque levels high so I can punch out of corners at high power levels.

I know I confuse people I pass, or who try to follow, when going down the roads. Probably wondering how a Camry Hybrid can attack corners at those speeds without breaking. Or maybe they think the breaks don’t work. Either way, during those long downhill windy mountain passes the only time I’m pedal breaking is when I’m running up to fast on another car’s asre. (I love chasing down and passing sport cars). :p

I also use this feature when driving around twisty (non-hilly) roads or in unpredictably or rubber necking traffic situations so I don’t have to ride the breaks. I wish all my cars had this feature.

So exploit the feature. You'll grow to love it and turn your nose up cars that don't have it.
 
Does the hesitation coincide with the gear shifts? To meet fuel economy goals, the transmission will rapidly upshift to get to the top gear as quickly as possible. Each shift will cause slight hesitation and is normal.

The Gen-Coupe's shifting hesitation is a tad bit bothersome. I had a less refine (cheaper) sequential shifting car and the shifts were near instantaneous. Down shifts were perfect.

But you'll get use to the slower Gen-Coupe eventually. I’m sure Hyundai had a reason for the slow shifts...mother hen at work protecting her (grown) chicks. Someone should attack the ECU and fix that problem. I’m sure that slow feature would affect any turbo/charger upgrades to the point that it would become unreasonable without the add cost and complexity of reverting the car to manual shift….which I have seen done on much better/faster sequential shifting autos.
 
I am not shifting gears, the car is in drive or automatic shift. But the car is almost acting as if it wants me to shift gears. Does this make any sense?
 
I am not using the stick shift option I am in automatic. But it is interesting what you are saying because the car feels like it wants me to shift gears. Is what I"m saying making any sense?
 
I am not shifting gears, the car is in drive or automatic shift. But the car is almost acting as if it wants me to shift gears. Does this make any sense?


Yes. With your foot off the accelerator while slowing you will feel the engine breaking kicking in right at 40 MPH to around 20 mph when the Auto function actually shits itself into a lower gear. It happens at higher speed is very prevalent at 40 MPH. Other than with my Hybrid purposely selected to demonstrate this function I've never experienced this on any other car but the 3.8 Genny.

I've seen this discussed on other Gen Coupe sites and the owners who have had their cars the longest appreciate the function "After" they learned to live with it. Some never noticed it until a thread came up. Everyone feel things differently. It can be very irritating if you haven't lived with it. You have an expectation to get a neutral feel when the foot is off the accelerator. But instead you get higher revs at the 40 MPH mark that makes the car feel as if the Transmission is still working with the engine.

However, you may be experiencing excessive engine breaking or some other problem. I was on a motorcycle with excessive engine breaking. Enough to almost lunch you over the handlebars if you weren’t paying attention. The problem was that the engine idle was set incorrectly Just take the car in and have someone take a look. You may actually have a problem.
 
I am experiencing no problems whatsoever with my transmission. It coasts much more than any other automatic that I have ever driven and is one reason I can get better than EPA rated MPG. When going down hill, the transmission can sometimes even up-shift with absolutely no foot on the accelerator.

The only slightly noticeable issue is that when coming to a stop and going only a few MPH, and then trying to accelerate quickly, there is some minor hesitation. I have learned to adjust how fast I accelerate from these situations to now almost completely eliminate such hesitation (such rapid acceleration was very wasteful of fuel and completely unnecessary to quickly distance myself from those behind me).
 
My bad. Terry Wells has a sedan. I thought he had the Coupe. Now he really may have a problem.
 
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Correct - this is automatic engine braking. Honda and Nissan use it too. Honda call this feature "Grade Logic Control".
I really appreciated it in both our Pilot and Altima 3.5 when we went thru the Tennessee Smokey mountains. It keeps the vehicle at a constant speed during downgrades and reduces the amount of brake use required. You do get used to it and you eventually will miss it when you drive a car without it.
Nissan's logic control was almost telepathic, probably the best I've encountered. It always shifted at precisely the right times as we went thru the mountains. The Honda was almost as good. I haven't taken the Genesis thru twisty mountains yet, so I don't have a feel for how well the transmission has been programmed.
I'm not so sure how well this would work in the snow though, especially with rear wheel drive, or whether the system is smart enough to figure it out. I can see how engine braking could cause the rear wheels to break loose on slipperly surfaces.
 
Thanks, you guys have been very helpful. I took the car back to the dealer and they said that everything was working fine, but the excessive braking that you mentioned makes a lot of sense. You make a good point when you ask how does this feature do in the snow, since I live in Chicago I guess I will find out soon. I am going to contact my dealer to see if they can make some sort of adjustments for this problem.
 
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