GDI Gas Direct Injection

[OUsig]

I would like to do this since I have 64,000 miles on my 2012 3.8 but yet I’m not mechanically savvy so if you can provide pictures or alil more in depth detail explanation that would be great. Thank you for your time

I am not sure how the V6 is setup exactly so please take these instructions from someone who is assuming a good bit!

Make sure your engine is fully hot before doing this, at a place where you will be able to FLOOR it after and be ok with the massive amount of smoke that will come out of the car after. In other words, dont do it in your local busy WalMart parking lot or you will look like an idiot.
You will want to look for a vacuum line that feeds right behind the throttle body. So pop off your engine cover and look for the throttle body. If you are not comfortable at this point I say go to the dealer to be safe
Assuming you are, there should be a hose that goes in right behind the throttle body and following that back you should find the purge control valve. You can unhook the electrical connection to that piece, then unhook the hose from the front of that valve (leave it connected to your engine on the other side). Pour 1/2 can at least of Seafoam into a clear glass container

Now the tricky part assuming all is well to this point. You should now be able to balance yourself on the engine with the open end of that hose in one hand and the container with Seafoam in the other. Turn on the vehicle and take the open end of the hose (will have a large amount of suction so be ready) and bring it close to the Seafoam liquid. The engine will suck it in and you have to try to keep it steady with the goal of as fast as possible without causing the engine to stall. When done with the Seafoam turn the car of immediately then let it sit for 5 -10 minutes. Meanwhile put the hose back on and reconnect the purge valve.

Then fire the car up (it may shudder a bit) and immediately get on a highway on ramp or something like that and enjoy the smoke out the tailpipes. Then enjoy the smooth running engine after.

 

[G-469175]

People generally recommend Techron by Chevron for this sort of thing.

Be careful when buying though. I ordered a carton of 20 oz containers from Amazon ---- I received 12 oz containers.

You do realize that fuel additives will never get near the back of the intake valves...

 

[OUsig]

You do realize that fuel additives will never get near the back of the intake valves...

This is why you have to "suck" it up through a vacuum line that feeds all cylinders. Ideally one right in front of the throttle body, or if not there then take off the air intake from the throttle body and use the Seafoam spray and have fun.
there are plenty of instructions and/or videos here or youtube
I do this and it works simple as that

 

[Ducatislave]

This is why you have to "suck" it up through a vacuum line that feeds all cylinders. Ideally one right in front of the throttle body, or if not there then take off the air intake from the throttle body and use the Seafoam spray and have fun.
there are plenty of instructions and/or videos here or youtube
I do this and it works simple as that

Agreed, I have been using the Seafoam treatment on customers cars as well as my own for years and it works wonders. If done correctly (according to the instructions) it is amazing the amount of crap it can clean out of an engine, and how much better it will run afterwards. The most difficult part of the whole process is getting the engine RPM to hold steady, a higher level scan tool is a huge plus for this operation. Also, make sure you let it have its FULL recommended heat soak time, or a bit more.

It is also a good idea to do this a little bit (about 250-500 miles or 5-7 days) before its next oil change, as it is gonna knock a bunch of junk loose and dissolve carbon and varnish from the crankcase (you should be adding 5-6 oz. to the engine oil when you do this cleaning) back into the oil.

I have seen a few times (3 to be exact, twice on customers cars and once on my wife's sonata) where a cylinder will start to misfire after this treatment. If this occurs, and does not clear itself out within a few miles, you will need to pull the plugs and clean them off. You will inevitably find one that has some carbon-ish looking stuff bridging the gap. A quick spray of ether w/ a little brush action, and you will be back in business.

I recommend using the spray can with the long straw that Seafoam offers for the TB and Intake cleaning, it offers a more metered/controlled flow over just hijacking a vacuum line to suck it up, it is easier on the engine too, since it has to compensate for the sudden influx of fuel as well as a partial vacuum leak.

 

[pmckechnie]

I agree with OUsig and Ducatslave. I also have done this to many customers cars and my own. It can work miracles in some cases. I have never had it cause a problem. I also use the spray cans through the throttle body. It also cleans the throttle body.
One little difference in my application, I spray the Seafoam in until it is almost gone then have someone turn the engine off while I am still spraying and quit spraying when the engine stops turning. This allows for a 15 to 30 min soak time. Then restart the engine and put the rest of the Seafoam in. Then run the engine up to 2000 to 2500 rpm until the smoke clears up. Then take it out and blow the soot out of it.

Works for me.

 

[OUsig]

Yes! I agree the spray can is probably the easiest especially if someone is not comfortable sucking up a liquid (basically) through a vacuum line and keeping the engine going.
I also agree making sure the engine is fully hot is key and I normally do this somewhere near a highway that is relatively open. Because after I spray nearly a full can or suck up nearly a full can, kill the engine to let it soak for 5 minutes or so. Then when you start it up...the engine will not be happy but dont worry, simply get ready to floor it (safely) and blast out all of the smoke. I find it works best when you can have the engine under a load vs simply reeving in a driveway for example.
Any check engine light that may come on (I have done this 5+ times on my Genesis and never had a light come on) but if so it will go off soon on its own.

I used this same method on my last vehicle (1999 Acura TL) and sold it with 285,000 miles, the engine ran like butter still.
I also do this on our 2007 Tahoe, my mower (1998 model John Deere push mower I bought brand new and starts 1st pull still) and any other engine my family owns that I can get my hand on! ha
good stuff

 

[Husam]

I use seafoam through the vacuum line (one attached to the intake purge valve) that goes right into the top of the intake manifold and also I will use the spray after removing the air intake tubes (it takes just a few minutes) that way I can clean the throttle body plate. Anyway, I do this every 5-10k miles mainly because it is fun and because I want to keep the engine as "clean" as possible. I am getting close to 100k miles and the engine idles and runs good as new.

Regarding the power difference between 87 and 93 octane. I am fairly certain I can tell a difference in throttle response and torque. With that being said, I normally run top tier 87 octane as I dont feel like paying the extra every tank. I will occasionally add in a couple tanks of Shell 93.

Can you post a pic of where this vaccum line exactly is?

 

[Husam]

This is why you have to "suck" it up through a vacuum line that feeds all cylinders. Ideally one right in front of the throttle body, or if not there then take off the air intake from the throttle body and use the Seafoam spray and have fun.
there are plenty of instructions and/or videos here or youtube
I do this and it works simple as that

Where is the vaccum line in Genesis g80 2015?

 

[Ducatislave]

Where is the vaccum line in Genesis g80 2015?

Using a vacuum port is not advisable, it creates the possibility that too much liquid cleaner could be introduced at once which could cause a cylinder to hydraulically lock and damage a piston, head, valve, block or all of the above. Using the aerosol can through the throttle body will ensure 1: controlled/metered spray, 2: clean off the throttle plate and body, 3: passing it at high pressure through that tiny tube and then over and around the helps to atomize it better which lets the engine evenly intake it into each cylinder as well as uniformly coating the inside of the intake and backs of the valves. Using a vacuum line may only let the cleaner come in to part of the intake or only on one side. It is not something I would recommend unless you have no alternative. IMHO it is totally worth the $3 more for the spray can.

 

[Husam]

Using a vacuum port is not advisable, it creates the possibility that too much liquid cleaner could be introduced at once which could cause a cylinder to hydraulically lock and damage a piston, head, valve, block or all of the above. Using the aerosol can through the throttle body will ensure 1: controlled/metered spray, 2: clean off the throttle plate and body, 3: passing it at high pressure through that tiny tube and then over and around the helps to atomize it better which lets the engine evenly intake it into each cylinder as well as uniformly coating the inside of the intake and backs of the valves. Using a vacuum line may only let the cleaner come in to part of the intake or only on one side. It is not something I would recommend unless you have no alternative. IMHO it is totally worth the $3 more for the spray can.

Thanks for the insight.

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