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K&N air filters for my 2015 Genesis 5.0

Yeah, a lot of positive reviews who butt dyno and assume that less pedal for same power = more power. All of them, bar none, are clueless about how cars work. Might as well add a splice in MAF "ecu tuner chip" while you're at it to experience all the gains of modern electronics hocus pocus. By the way, I've heard rave reviews about curing people from the flu by bleeding them until near death.

Sprint Booster – Is It Worth It?
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I'm not a skeptic, I'm an automotive electronics technician. You see two wires, I see the entire thoughts of the car going by. There is nothing you can plug into a throttle pedal wire that will improve power. Nothing (but you can definitely reduce power). It has 2 or 3 independent but synchronized states that move between a fixed upper and lower limit. There is no way to artificially extend the range by adding electronics.

Fun fact: 100% throttle demand is 88% throttle actuation (give or take 5% depending on engine design). No matter how fast you hit 100% you only get 88% out of it. Engine makes more power by not opening the blade all the way.
Have you tried the Sprint Booster in your car? If not, how can you truly form an opinion of a product effectiveness? What you have is only a belief based on speculative data.
 
Yeah, a lot of positive reviews who butt dyno and assume that less pedal for same power = more power. All of them, bar none, are clueless about how cars work. Might as well add a splice in MAF "ecu tuner chip" while you're at it to experience all the gains of modern electronics hocus pocus. By the way, I've heard rave reviews about curing people from the flu by bleeding them until near death.

Sprint Booster – Is It Worth It?
[/URL][/URL][/URL][/URL]

I'm not a skeptic, I'm an automotive electronics technician. You see two wires, I see the entire thoughts of the car going by. There is nothing you can plug into a throttle pedal wire that will improve power. Nothing (but you can definitely reduce power). It has 2 or 3 independent but synchronized states that move between a fixed upper and lower limit. There is no way to artificially extend the range by adding electronics.

Fun fact: 100% throttle demand is 88% throttle actuation (give or take 5% depending on engine design). No matter how fast you hit 100% you only get 88% out of it. Engine makes more power by not opening the blade all the way.
I have to admit, I know exactly what type of product you are talking about because I fell for it myself about 2-3 years ago. It was from a very reputable company in the tuner community so I tried it. All it did was change the pedal map. For example, 30% throttle input would send the signal for 60% throttle to the car. Yeah, that SUCKS. Never used it after the initial test drive.

Sprint Booster CLAIMS specifically to not work like that. According to them, all modes keep the pedal position at a 1:1 ratio with the throttle position. 25% pedal = 25% throttle. The only thing that changes is how fast the throttle plate actuates. A faster actuating throttle body would give you better acceleration without adding any extra power.

So far, Carguy is the only one that has tried this particular unit. If he says it works, then I take his word for it until there is conflicting data from someone else that has tried it.

I can tell for sure from experience in my 5.0 that the stock throttle actuates slower than the pedal, and there are definitely what feels like dead spots in the throttle mapping. I plan on trying the Sprint Booster to help with these issues. If it doesn't, I will be truthful about it.
 
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I have to admit, I know exactly what type of product you are talking about because I fell for it myself about 2-3 years ago. I was from a very reputable company in the tuner community so I tried it. All it did was change the pedal map. For example, 30% throttle input would send the signal for 60% throttle to the car. Yeah, that SUCKS. Never used it after the initial test drive.

Sprint Booster CLAIMS specifically to not work like that. According to them, all modes keep the pedal position at a 1:1 ratio with the throttle position. 25% pedal = 25% throttle. The only thing that changes is how fast the throttle plate actuates. A faster actuating throttle body would give you better acceleration without adding any extra power.

So far, Carguy is the only one that's a he tried this particular unit. If he says it works, then I take his word for it until there is conflicting data from someone else that has tried it.

I can tell for sure from experience in my 5.0 that the stock throttle actuates slower that the pedal, an there are definitely what feels like dead spots in the throttle mapping. I plan on drying the Sprint Booster to help with these issues. If it doesn't, I will be truthful about it.
Thank you.

I have noticed that I am the only person actually trying out some of the performance products like the K&N air filters and the Sprint Booster on teh 5.0 V8. I am the type that would bash a product if it fails to perform like advertised. However, I do not expect performance air filters to behave like a supercharger aside from only just giving a small boost in performance in which the K&N did perform. The Sprint Booster exceeded my expectations; it feels like a Race Mode have been added to the Genesis.

To me, a gain is a gain. I would only complain if the a product manufacturer stated that I should gain a specify amount of horsepower and I dyno the car found out that it did not meet expectations. However, neither K&N nor Sprint Booster made any specify horsepower claims. If the K&N filters only gives the engine 1 hp then it lived up to the advertisement, however I believe that the filters gave more. The Sprint Booster did reduce throttle lag and make the Genesis move with a purpose more than it did stock.

If anyone have different experiences so be it, but atleast try to post some proof or data that reinforces your claims that can be verified.
 
Thank you.

I have noticed that I am the only person actually trying out some of the performance products like the K&N air filters and the Sprint Booster on teh 5.0 V8. I am the type that would bash a product if it fails to perform like advertised. However, I do not expect performance air filters to behave like a supercharger aside from only just giving a small boost in performance in which the K&N did perform. The Sprint Booster exceeded my expectations; it feels like a Race Mode have been added to the Genesis.

To me, a gain is a gain. I would only complain if the a product manufacturer stated that I should gain a specify amount of horsepower and I dyno the car found out that it did not meet expectations. However, neither K&N nor Sprint Booster made any specify horsepower claims. If the K&N filters only gives the engine 1 hp then it lived up to the advertisement, however I believe that the filters gave more. The Sprint Booster did reduce throttle lag and make the Genesis move with a purpose more than it did stock.

If anyone have different experiences so be it, but atleast try to post some proof or data that reinforces your claims that can be verified.
How did you launch the car. From a dead stop or did you brake torque? If it's the latter, what rpm did you launch at?

Also, any reason why you chose to test the car in "Eco" mode?
 
I purchased a Genesis because of (in order of importance) price, comfort, ride, quietness, sound system and then performance. (style would go in there but not sure where). Never, would I think this car is one that someone focused on to make performance improvements. For someone who gets a kick out of maybe a couple HP gain with aftermarket air filters, your gas mileage must be awful.
 
I purchased a Genesis because of (in order of importance) price, comfort, ride, quietness, sound system and then performance. (style would go in there but not sure where). Never, would I think this car is one that someone focused on to make performance improvements. For someone who gets a kick out of maybe a couple HP gain with aftermarket air filters, your gas mileage must be awful.
No my gas mileage is pretty good if I just leave my car in ECO mode and drive the speed limit. I drive my Genesis in a lot of stop-and-go Atlanta traffic and average about 16mpg on my commutes. However, I did not buy a 420hp V8 engine car just to worry about obtaining the best fuel economy over performance.:)
 
How did you launch the car. From a dead stop or did you brake torque? If it's the latter, what rpm did you launch at?

Also, any reason why you chose to test the car in "Eco" mode?
I just pressed the gas pedal from a standstill. I even still had the traction control on. I used ECO mode because that is what I normally drive my Genesis in daily unless I want to compete against another car. My car seem to move fairly quick in ECO mode so I just wanted to test it out and see how quick it was in the mode I use most often.

Sport mode especially with the Sprint Booster seem to cause more wheel spin when flooring it without traction control activated and seem to take longer off the line if the traction control is still on which reduces the power to control wheel spin. Launching the Genesis in sport mode will be trickier. Believe it or not, ECO mode launches pretty good from a standstill without additional wheel spin so I can see how the 0-60 time was fairly good.

I will do a test with sport mode with and without the Sprint Booster when I get the chance since I use a public road that get pretty busy if I want to use the same road that I did the ECO mode test on for a proper comparison.
 
AMEN.

The sprint booster is actually supposed to get the butterfly to open faster than flooring it.
There might be some benefit to these "boosters" in way of less lag time or a bit more consistent opening, but I'm used to throttle modulation. My last daily driver was more performance oriented and 1200 pounds lighter than my 2015 5.0, plus it was a 6-speed manual. The standard mechanical cable to the throttle body was directly controlled by your foot pressure on the pedal. Being it would break traction easily, you had to control it with the pressure applied. This drive by wire stuff is taking a bit of getting used to by me, although I'm not the least concerned about "racing" on the street.
Back to the K&Ns though. On my Z28 which had a functional ram air hood (SS type), I did all the little tricks to squeeze as much HP out of the intake side as I could without changing the intake plenum, throttle body, etc.
First, I removed a good portion of the plastic on the bottom of the air box and added a SLP lid. I did the TB coolant bypass (a design made for colder climates and detrimental to performance for sake of reliability in really cold weather), and I also ground off a small amount of the TB stop which raises it to 100% open at full throttle
rather than the 95-ish% it is capable of stock. I also added a K&N air filter. All of that netted .1 second better 0-60 time. Later on I switched the K&N to an Amsoil filter. The performance "felt" a little better with the brand new air filter and it proved durable by just periodically blowing it off (reverse air flow) with an air hose. I say felt better because it seemed to idle smoother, but I doubt it was measurable. Those LS1 MAF sensors were VERY sensitive to oil (I did not remove the protective screen as some do), and I thought that was the biggest downside to the K&N. Otherwise, a good investment for long-term use in regular conditions.

Overall, I don't think any air filter has much performance advantage over any other CLEAN air filter, unless you can increase the air flow to it and the computer will allow the increase to be used by the engine. Not a one and done proposition.

Glad people try to increase performance though, even if they won't regularly use it. That's what real car enthusiasts do.
 
There might be some benefit to these "boosters" in way of less lag time or a bit more consistent opening, but I'm used to throttle modulation. My last daily driver was more performance oriented and 1200 pounds lighter than my 2015 5.0, plus it was a 6-speed manual. The standard mechanical cable to the throttle body was directly controlled by your foot pressure on the pedal. Being it would break traction easily, you had to control it with the pressure applied. This drive by wire stuff is taking a bit of getting used to by me, although I'm not the least concerned about "racing" on the street.
Back to the K&Ns though. On my Z28 which had a functional ram air hood (SS type), I did all the little tricks to squeeze as much HP out of the intake side as I could without changing the intake plenum, throttle body, etc.
First, I removed a good portion of the plastic on the bottom of the air box and added a SLP lid. I did the TB coolant bypass (a design made for colder climates and detrimental to performance for sake of reliability in really cold weather), and I also ground off a small amount of the TB stop which raises it to 100% open at full throttle
rather than the 95-ish% it is capable of stock. I also added a K&N air filter. All of that netted .1 second better 0-60 time. Later on I switched the K&N to an Amsoil filter. The performance "felt" a little better with the brand new air filter and it proved durable by just periodically blowing it off (reverse air flow) with an air hose. I say felt better because it seemed to idle smoother, but I doubt it was measurable. Those LS1 MAF sensors were VERY sensitive to oil (I did not remove the protective screen as some do), and I thought that was the biggest downside to the K&N. Otherwise, a good investment for long-term use in regular conditions.

Overall, I don't think any air filter has much performance advantage over any other CLEAN air filter, unless you can increase the air flow to it and the computer will allow the increase to be used by the engine. Not a one and done proposition.

Glad people try to increase performance though, even if they won't regularly use it. That's what real car enthusiasts do.
I have an GM V8 engine that I modified in my 2006 Escalade with the 6.0 engine. I performed the coolant bypass as well. I also installed a JET throttle body and JET MAF sensor with Airaid MIT intake pipe w/AFE dry air filter including a few other mods like Diablo sport tuner. I measured the 0-60mph using my Torque Pro and it was 6.5 seconds. Not bad for a large SUV.

In regards to the K&N, the Genesis has continuous variable valve timing/valve lift which adjusts the engine much more than the older styled GM engines you had, so performance air filters does provide better gains than older engines like your old V8. However, GM engines gain power easy from ECM tuners.:)

My Caddy.


My JET Performance MAF sensor/throttle body and Airaid intake.
 
Ok everyone. I have done 0-60mph times with my Genesis in Sport mode with and without traction control enabled as well as with the Sprint Booster activated. My best time was 5 second flat no matter how I launched the car even on a relative flat road I was using to test the car on. I did not torque brake the engine because the rear tires already had traction issues just from flooring the gas pedal in Sport mode. It seems like our car needs some wider tire in the rear for a proper launch in Sport mode.

The funny thing is that I did my last run in ECO again just to see if that last 4.7 second run I did in that mode was a fluke. Guess what; I got my best time ever at 4.6 seconds on the same road that I could only get a 5 second time in Sport mode. Eco mode just launches perfectly without wheel spin. I do notice that the transmission also also seem to shift smoother with the ECO probably because the adaptive shift logic is used to my driving style in that mode. I always drive in ECO mode daily. I rarely use Sport mode unless I want some extra speed, so the transmission shifts seem a bit more hesitant than in ECO mode especially when I step on the gas from a standstill. So the slower time for Sport mode may also be from the shift logic not knowing exactly how to shift as I need it do. Just speculation. All I really know is that Sport is harder to launch and that ECO mode have gave me my best 0-60 times back to back.

My best 0-60 time of 4.6 seconds I got today in ECO mode on a fairly level straight road. This car is fast!!! I wish that I can get a good launch in sport mode to see what it really can do.

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Hellz yeah! 4.6 0-60... But your 1/4 mile time could use some work. 😉
 
Hellz yeah! 4.6 0-60... But your 1/4 mile time could use some work. 😉
LOL. That 1/4 mile time was when I merged onto the highway during my commute. I have the Torque app running when I am driving so that it records everything but only save the best times.

4.6 seconds surprised the crap out of me. The way the runs was going in Sport mode, I expecting the ECO run to be 6 seconds.:)
 
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k&n does improve performance according to this video...that said i've removed the k&n on my 3.8 replaced it with a pure one and don't notice any difference. as to how well it cleans the air is another story.

 
k&n does improve performance according to this video...that said i've removed the k&n on my 3.8 replaced it with a pure one and don't notice any difference. as to how well it cleans the air is another story.

I heard that K&N filter about 90% or so the dust as the stock filter. However, I believe that I am trading better engine performance for more dust in my oil overall. Not much of an issue for me since I change my oil every 4k miles anyway. Cotton filters still filter the air of dust but no way as good as a paper filter yet allows the engine to make it true power output due to less restriction. Inversely, paper filters do not flow as much air as an cotton filter and reduces the engine overall power output yet keep the engine cleaner.

Note: The K&N filter gave that relatively low horsepower(148hp) Subaru engine a boost in performance. Directed injected V6/V8 engines tend to gain more from performance air filters than four cylinder engines like whats in that Subaru.
 
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Yeah. That that slow Subie dropped about .15 sec 20-60 and 45-60. I may have underestimated the drop in filter swap! I thought 5 hp gain tops. But, all things being equal, we should gain over 10 hp and almost 15 lb ft of torque. That's valuable.
 
Yeah. That that slow Subie dropped about .15 sec 20-60 and 45-60. I may have underestimated the drop in filter swap! I thought 5 hp gain tops. But, all things being equal, we should gain over 10 hp and almost 15 lb ft of torque. That's valuable.
My thought exactly. That slow ass car was a 1/10th faster with a K&N, so it very possbile that my Genesis gain better performance than that car. Furthermore, my engine has twin air boxes and the K&N filter area is actually much larger than the stock Hyundai paper filters with is mostly a plastic plate. Check out my first post to see the difference. My engine gained at-least 15hp from the filter swap I bet if not more.
 
My thought exactly. That slow ass car was a 1/10th faster with a K&N, so it very possbile that my Genesis gain better performance than that car. Furthermore, my engine has twin air boxes and the K&N filter area is actually much larger than the stock Hyundai paper filters with is mostly a plastic plate. Check out my first post to see the difference. My engine gained at-least 15hp from the filter swap I bet if not more.
If you don't mind, could you please test you 0-60 time without the sprint Booster? I wander if that's helping you a bit while in Eco mode.

I have the drop in filters installed and will be replacing the intake tubes soon with smoother, more directed pipes. Pretty much looks like a "Y" instead of a "T". I don't know if it will do much, but I also have the torque app... 😁
 
If you don't mind, could you please test you 0-60 time without the sprint Booster? I wander if that's helping you a bit while in Eco mode.

I have the drop in filters installed and will be replacing the intake tubes soon with smoother, more directed pipes. Pretty much looks like a "Y" instead of a "T". I don't know if it will do much, but I also have the torque app... 😁
I actually did the ECO mode acceleration test with the Sprint Booster turned off, however it is possible that the Sprint Booster module still adjusted the stock throttle control calibration from the factory setting even when switched off. I may have to do a factory reset to regain the stock throttle calibration as set from the factory. However, I like how my car runs now so I am good with how my throttle performs.

Would you post some 0-60 times before and with the modification? I curious to see what another 2015+ Genesis 5.0 can do also.
Note: I did change my rear differential fluid for Royal Purple fluid with friction modifiers so my times will still be different unless you also use the same or similar type differential fluid with friction modifiers. The stock 75w-90 fluid do not have friction modifiers.
 
Yea I clean twice a year. Every vehicle we own has a KN filter - 2004 GMC Envoy V8 5.3, 1990 Isuzu 2.6 Space Cab, and 2006 Suzuki Burgman.



That's why I bought em also.... to save money:)
 
The engineers probably already knows that the engine makes additional power with high flowing filters, but it is equipped with paper filters that restricts power for cost and better protection. Paper does filters out dust better than cotton performance filters.:)

I am not saying that performance filters make "magic" horsepower out of nowhere. Many engines run better with more air flow, however automakers use inexpensive paper filters which have a good balance of engine power and protection which may reduce the horsepower production in the engine.

Hence why in 2006 published horsepower numbers were made to reflect the actual engine power with the air box and engine accessories by SAE, because some automakers were flubbing numbers by stating the engine power before adding the air box and other accessories that reduced the power output of the engine.


Paper air filters by themselves do filter better than cotton alone. Cotton gives more flow.
Now cotton combined with the oil will give more flow, and cleaner air.
 
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