BTR No Longer Tuning?

[JoshShimer]

So I was looking to get a tune about 2 weeks ago for my 2010 4.6, and was able to find it on BTR's website, however I didnt pull the trigger. I decided yesterday that I was going to go ahead and do it, but I see it's no longer on their site. I reached out to BTR and they informed me that they are no longer providing tunes (pic attached), at least for my model (2010 4.6)

Are there other options available? I'm not sure I've seen anyone else providing them other than BTR.

 

[66nexus]

I got the same email when I contacted them. The only 'option' I can think of at this point is SFR racing (at least they used to do tunes for the sedan, not sure now). Sending your ECU out to JET might be an option.

 

[MoonDoggy-X]

Are there other options available? I'm not sure I've seen anyone else providing them other than BTR.

There's always options, but are they worth it? These are N/A engines, so tune gains are limited unless the engine is heavily modified. There's easier, less intrusive ways to see the same gains you'd get from an N/A tune.

1. Make sure intake is as cold and unrestricted as possible.
2. Cat-back exhaust. THE FIRST CATS-BACK. Get rid if those pointless secondary cats, run slightly larger diameter piping, get some straight-through mufflers and an x pipe.
3. Lighter wheels and summer tires. Not just aftermarket wheels. Make sure they are lighter than your stock set-up, which should be easy. You'd be surprised what shaving 10 pounds of rotating mass from each corner will do for your car. Acceleration, braking cornering, handling and fuel economy will all improve.
4. Ported throttle body and intake manifolds. Thanks to the MAP sensor, the stock ECU can adjust pretty well to increased air flow.
5. Sprint Booster. Make sure its that brand, I've tried knock-offs, not the same. It works wonders for throttle response and helps mitigate the the cars overbearing torque management system.(the torque limiter will still be there, though drive-ability will be improved dramatically.)
6. Use high quality fluids. Oil, trans, and diff fluids should be top tier full synthetics. Replace and flush your coolant every 50k miles. Heat pulls timing.
7. Highest octane pump gas available to you. I only ever use 93 octane.
8. Stay up on general maintenance. Get a catch can. Make sure your intake valves and injectors are clean. Use the best spark plugs and ignition coils. Replace about every 50k miles. (Yes, this is a bit much. But if you're willing to pay $1K-ish for the 20hp you'd get from the BTR tune, not keeping up with #6, 7, and 8 will easily rob you of that 20hp.)

The stock ecu should be able to utilize everything above for some pretty noticeable gains, though a tune would obviously gain you more. With no one offering tunes anymore, our only option now is a piggyback unit. I don't mean some cutesy JB4-like plun-n play piggy back like the turbo guys n' gals get. I'm talking along the lines of the FIC and Emanage Ultimate, that have to be spliced into you harness like some kind of symbiote. These things will absolutely make it so that your car can be "tuned" on a dyno. The downside is that they are incredibly intrusive.

Something like this is only worth it if you are modding your car to the point that it will not run properly without a tune. Think along the lines of headers, port and polished heads, nitrous, or boosting a N/A car.

 

[carguy75]

There's always options, but are they worth it? These are N/A engines, so tune gains are limited unless the engine is heavily modified. There's easier, less intrusive ways to see the same gains you'd get from an N/A tune.

1. Make sure intake is as cold and unrestricted as possible.
2. Cat-back exhaust. THE FIRST CATS-BACK. Get rid if those pointless secondary cats, run slightly larger diameter piping, get some straight-through mufflers and an x pipe.
3. Lighter wheels and summer tires. Not just aftermarket wheels. Make sure they are lighter than your stock set-up, which should be easy. You'd be surprised what shaving 10 pounds of rotating mass from each corner will do for your car. Acceleration, braking cornering, handling and fuel economy will all improve.
4. Ported throttle body and intake manifolds. Thanks to the MAP sensor, the stock ECU can adjust pretty well to increased air flow.
5. Sprint Booster. Make sure its that brand, I've tried knock-offs, not the same. It works wonders for throttle response and helps mitigate the the cars overbearing torque management system.(the torque limiter will still be there, though drive-ability will be improved dramatically.)
6. Use high quality fluids. Oil, trans, and diff fluids should be top tier full synthetics. Replace and flush your coolant every 50k miles. Heat pulls timing.
7. Highest octane pump gas available to you. I only ever use 93 octane.
8. Stay up on general maintenance. Get a catch can. Make sure your intake valves and injectors are clean. Use the best spark plugs and ignition coils. Replace about every 50k miles. (Yes, this is a bit much. But if you're willing to pay $1K-ish for the 20hp you'd get from the BTR tune, not keeping up with #6, 7, and 8 will easily rob you of that 20hp.)

The stock ecu should be able to utilize everything above for some pretty noticeable gains, though a tune would obviously gain you more. With no one offering tunes anymore, our only option now is a piggyback unit. I don't mean some cutesy JB4-like plun-n play piggy back like the turbo guys n' gals get. I'm talking along the lines of the FIC and Emanage Ultimate, that have to be spliced into you harness like some kind of symbiote. These things will absolutely make it so that your car can be "tuned" on a dyno. The downside is that they are incredibly intrusive.

Something like this is only worth it if you are modding your car to the point that it will not run properly without a tune. Think along the lines of headers, port and polished heads, nitrous, or boosting a N/A car.

Well said. You just summarized what needs to be done to get the Genesis 5.0 running it best.

 

[MoonDoggy-X]

Well said. You just summarized what needs to be done to get the Genesis 5.0 running it best.

I went through all of this modding my Toyota Avalon. Now that was like squeezing water from a rock. Had to get performance from everywhere I could. Tried everything I could find, some worked, a lot didn't. In the end, I learned a lot about about getting the most out of cars with small to no aftermarket support.

With my Avy, I was able to find 2 tuners to remote tune the car. They both tune Camrys, which is mechanically similar to my Avalon. I sent them the part number of my ECU, and the let me know if they tune it, and what they could tune in it. It's not as good as a Dyno tune, but it's easily worth $1k. Really we just need ignition and valve timimg, throttle mapping and air/fuel adjusted.

Maybe someone can reach out to people that can tune the Genesis coupe. The 3.8 coupe ecu, has to be similar to the 3.8 sedan ecu... Which can't be too far off from the 5.0 sedan ecu. Anyone know the part numbers?

 

[carguy75]

I went through all of this modding my Toyota Avalon. Now that was like squeezing water from a rock. Had to get performance from everywhere I could. Tried everything I could find, some worked, a lot didn't. In the end, I learned a lot about about getting the most out of cars with small to no aftermarket support.

With my Avy, I was able to find 2 tuners to remote tune the car. They both tune Camrys, which is mechanically similar to my Avalon. I sent them the part number of my ECU, and the let me know if they tune it, and what they could tune in it. It's not as good as a Dyno tune, but it's easily worth $1k. Really we just need ignition and valve timimg, throttle mapping and air/fuel adjusted.

Maybe someone can reach out to people that can tune the Genesis coupe. The 3.8 coupe ecu, has to be similar to the 3.8 sedan ecu... Which can't be too far off from the 5.0 sedan ecu. Anyone know the part numbers?

I used to own a 1999 Camry XLE V6 back in the days and I only was able to do a performance filter and exhaust mod for that engine, but it did performance better. I even had the TRD logos on the Camry.

My Genesis is quick even from using the minor modifications you mentioned. Per a GPS tester, my car does 0-60mph in 4.6 seconds with a good launch in ECO mode. The 5.0 engine is very quick with only performance air-filters, premium fuel and synthetic gear oil with friction modifiers. 4.6 second 0-60mph is as fast as most high-end performance sedans. Good enough for me.

 

[MoonDoggy-X]

I used to own a 1999 Camry XLE V6 back in the days and I only was able to do a performance filter and exhaust mod for that engine, but it did performance better. I even had the TRD logos on the Camry.

My Genesis is quick even from using the minor modifications you mentioned. Per a GPS tester, my car does 0-60mph in 4.6 seconds with a good launch in ECO mode. The 5.0 engine is very quick with only performance air-filters, premium fuel and synthetic gear oil with friction modifiers. 4.6 second 0-60mph is as fast as most high-end performance sedans. Good enough for me.

What's a friction modifier? Sounds like something I need.

 

[carguy75]

Royal Purple Max Gear(what I use) and other oil companies oil uses friction modifiers in the gear oil to reduce friction between the metal parts. The friction modifiers are mainly for LSD gears that will chatter without additional friction protection that oil itself does not provide. I read that the friction modifiers are moly or graphite based which makes the gear oil slipperier.

The gear oil with friction modifiers help reduces friction and drag in the Genesis rear differential which help minimize drive-line parasitic power lost from the engine to the rear axles.

http://www.royalpurple.com/product/max_gear/

 

[MG8]

thats not good news.

 

[LD5050]

I’d be interested to know what precipitated their decision. Did they encounter issues tuning these ECU’s, or was there just not enough interest to keep that service available?

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[MG8]

they are moving in a different direction and contract with tuner is over.

 

[Flarfignewton]

I'm glad I got mine when I did but that's unfortunate. I hope that if I get headers in the future I'll be okay with the current tune.

 

[Bud71]

I used to own a 1999 Camry XLE V6 back in the days and I only was able to do a performance filter and exhaust mod for that engine, but it did performance better. I even had the TRD logos on the Camry.

My Genesis is quick even from using the minor modifications you mentioned. Per a GPS tester, my car does 0-60mph in 4.6 seconds with a good launch in ECO mode. The 5.0 engine is very quick with only performance air-filters, premium fuel and synthetic gear oil with friction modifiers. 4.6 second 0-60mph is as fast as most high-end performance sedans. Good enough for me.

Carguy - I am seriously looking for tires this month and the Falcon's were on my short-list. I read a few of your posts, and you've convinced me. I have all the problems everyone has mentioned with the Conti's...and they ride loud with@ 25k miles on them. Front tires are wearing bad on the outsides; so, an alignment also.

But you've drawn my attention to your Sprint Booster. Would you do it again? I picked up my 5.0 with @ 12k miles on it with a CPO - 100k premium extended warranty. Do you know if running the Sprint Booster kills warranty work? Thanks for any input!

 

[DaNooch]

Royal Purple Max Gear(what I use) and other oil companies oil uses friction modifiers in the gear oil to reduce friction between the metal parts. The friction modifiers are mainly for LSD gears that will chatter without additional friction protection that oil itself does not provide. I read that the friction modifiers are moly or graphite based which makes the gear oil slipperier.

The gear oil with friction modifiers help reduces friction and drag in the Genesis rear differential which help minimize drive-line parasitic power lost from the engine to the rear axles.

http://www.royalpurple.com/product/max_gear/

Dude, let me warn you all about f'n around with the diff oil the tranny, etc.. Now I have a 14 3.8 GDi ultimate. My 8 speed shifttronic trans is sealed from the factory. You do not flush it.. I went to two separate Hyundai dealers for the first times ever and told them I wanted an appointment to get my trans flushed, and they both took a second looking at stuff on the computer, then telling me that they don't do flushes on that trans?? It's sealed. I play stupid and say ok and leave.. lol but you def don't want Johnny fuckleberry at the local shop breaking into your 8-speed to flush it and f'n everything up!!

Now when it comes to the gear oils etc.. if you can buy it at Autozone or Advance off the shelf, it's pure shit.. It will destroy you're rear end. I HIGHLY recommend if you are gonna start messing with rear end fluid you either get factory Hyundai oil to replace it, or you get Torco RGO plus a bottle of whatever friction modifier you need. The stuff is amazing it's what we used on the Stewart-Haas Mascar teams and what most race teams use Period.. it has always again and again worked when nothing else would for me.

Anything with the Friction Modifier already in it? Garbage... royal purpl?? Pull that crap out as fast as you can.. I beg you..

 

[carguy75]

Dude, let me warn you all about f'n around with the diff oil the tranny, etc.. Now I have a 14 3.8 GDi ultimate. My 8 speed shifttronic trans is sealed from the factory. You do not flush it.. I went to two separate Hyundai dealers for the first times ever and told them I wanted an appointment to get my trans flushed, and they both took a second looking at stuff on the computer, then telling me that they don't do flushes on that trans?? It's sealed. I play stupid and say ok and leave.. lol but you def don't want Johnny fuckleberry at the local shop breaking into your 8-speed to flush it and f'n everything up!!

Now when it comes to the gear oils etc.. if you can buy it at Autozone or Advance off the shelf, it's pure shit.. It will destroy you're rear end. I HIGHLY recommend if you are gonna start messing with rear end fluid you either get factory Hyundai oil to replace it, or you get Torco RGO plus a bottle of whatever friction modifier you need. The stuff is amazing it's what we used on the Stewart-Haas Mascar teams and what most race teams use Period.. it has always again and again worked when nothing else would for me.

Anything with the Friction Modifier already in it? Garbage... royal purpl?? Pull that crap out as fast as you can.. I beg you..

Chill.

The 2015 Genesis 5.0 have an open differential that does not require any special OEM friction modifier like many LSD rear-end on high end sport models. The Genesis rear-end only needs a good quality synthetic 75w-90 gear oil. Most aftermarket gear oils includes a friction modifier for LSD rear end use which benefits the Genesis open gear unit as well.

Why do you think that Royal Purple gear oil is crap?

 

[carguy75]

Carguy - I am seriously looking for tires this month and the Falcon's were on my short-list. I read a few of your posts, and you've convinced me. I have all the problems everyone has mentioned with the Conti's...and they ride loud with@ 25k miles on them. Front tires are wearing bad on the outsides; so, an alignment also.

But you've drawn my attention to your Sprint Booster. Would you do it again? I picked up my 5.0 with @ 12k miles on it with a CPO - 100k premium extended warranty. Do you know if running the Sprint Booster kills warranty work? Thanks for any input!

I like how my Falken FK510 summer tires handle especially lately in the warmer weather since the summer tires seem more grippy than when the weather was cooler. I am now more concerned about how long the summers tires will last before they wear out.

I love my Sprint Booster! I will buy another if I swap cars. On the open highway the Sprint Booster allows me to keep up or just out accelerate many high end performance cars car that try to pass me up. No lag, just rocket like acceleration. Even though the rear tires loss traction, the Sprint Booster works very good from a stand still as well.

 

[edizzle89]

Dude, let me warn you all about f'n around with the diff oil the tranny, etc.. Now I have a 14 3.8 GDi ultimate. My 8 speed shifttronic trans is sealed from the factory. You do not flush it.. I went to two separate Hyundai dealers for the first times ever and told them I wanted an appointment to get my trans flushed, and they both took a second looking at stuff on the computer, then telling me that they don't do flushes on that trans?? It's sealed. I play stupid and say ok and leave.. lol but you def don't want Johnny fuckleberry at the local shop breaking into your 8-speed to flush it and f'n everything up!!

Now when it comes to the gear oils etc.. if you can buy it at Autozone or Advance off the shelf, it's pure shit.. It will destroy you're rear end. I HIGHLY recommend if you are gonna start messing with rear end fluid you either get factory Hyundai oil to replace it, or you get Torco RGO plus a bottle of whatever friction modifier you need. The stuff is amazing it's what we used on the Stewart-Haas Mascar teams and what most race teams use Period.. it has always again and again worked when nothing else would for me.

Anything with the Friction Modifier already in it? Garbage... royal purpl?? Pull that crap out as fast as you can.. I beg you..

I agree that a trans flush is a bad idea, but tons of people have done drain and fills on their trans with good results. Sealed doesnt mean it cant be serviced.

you know Hyundai doesn't make their own oil right? they just buy someone elses and slap their label on it. and Like someone else said with an open rear diff pretty much any synthetic GL-5 75w90 oil will work just fine. Oil companies have ratings they have to meet that are standards in the industry, if Hyundai says use GL-5 75w90 and the bottle of oil says GL-5 75w90 then it will work with no issues, that's the whole reason for the industry standards. Also friction modifiers are not needed in the diff as there's no LSD with clutches so it's really just wasting money to add it.

 

[Bud71]

I like how my Falken FK510 summer tires handle especially lately in the warmer weather since the summer tires seem more grippy than when the weather was cooler. I am now more concerned about how long the summers tires will last before they wear out.

I love my Sprint Booster! I will buy another if I swap cars. On the open highway the Sprint Booster allows me to keep up or just out accelerate many high end performance cars car that try to pass me up. No lag, just rocket like acceleration. Even though the rear tires loss traction, the Sprint Booster works very good from a stand still as well.

Thank you. I have plenty of summer weather in Phoenix for those tires. I figure getting 20k on good tires as opposed to getting 30k on some brand-recognized tire that's rated for 40k and only gets 30k and doesn't handle as well is a fair trade-off; especially when they are only 2/3 the price.

I'm on the Sprint Booster. Hoping it helps the occasional sluggish start in the middle of an intersection as well!

 

[Fgpalmer71]

Carguy - I am seriously looking for tires this month and the Falcon's were on my short-list. I read a few of your posts, and you've convinced me. I have all the problems everyone has mentioned with the Conti's...and they ride loud with@ 25k miles on them. Front tires are wearing bad on the outsides; so, an alignment also.

But you've drawn my attention to your Sprint Booster. Would you do it again? I picked up my 5.0 with @ 12k miles on it with a CPO - 100k premium extended warranty. Do you know if running the Sprint Booster kills warranty work? Thanks for any input!

HUGE Continental DWS06 fan here. With that said I went with the Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 summer tires for the new 20" wheels and they've been the best summer tire I've tried so far. Used to run Bridgestone RE tires in the past. Look into them......I don't imagine you're gonna regret it! Ratings were through the roof.

 

[Bud71]

HUGE Continental DWS06 fan here. With that said I went with the Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 summer tires for the new 20" wheels and they've been the best summer tire I've tried so far. Used to run Bridgestone RE tires in the past. Look into them......I don't imagine you're gonna regret it! Ratings were through the roof.

Will do. Firestone's and Falken's are similarly priced.