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Battery draw 2015 Genesis when sitting

I heard on some BMWs you have to program a new battery!
They make these new cars in such a way so they can then milk you at the dealership! Waiting for smart wiper blades that require programming at the dealership for $100!
 
I heard on some BMWs you have to program a new battery!
They make these new cars in such a way so they can then milk you at the dealership! Waiting for smart wiper blades that require programming at the dealership for $100!

I've programmed many a Mercedes and BMW battery. I've programmed replacement turn signals on Audi too 😂
 
I heard on some BMWs you have to program a new battery!
They make these new cars in such a way so they can then milk you at the dealership! Waiting for smart wiper blades that require programming at the dealership for $100!

They do. Thankfully, Hyundai/Genesis doesn't require this. Making stuff overly complicated to require a dealer visit. :-(
 
Plugged in an OBD scanner and it looks like the alternator kicks in only when the car decelerates.
Maybe it senses that the battery is fully charged and wont put any charge to it.
Anyone please confirm what voltage do you have on the battery with the engine idling?
Just trying to understand if this is as it is supposed to be
 
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Plugged in an OBD scanner and it looks like the alternator kicks in only when the car decelerates.
Maybe it senses that the battery is fully charged and wont put any charge to it.
Anyone please confirm what voltage do you have on the battery with the engine idling?
Just trying to understand if this is as it is supposed to be

The ECU controls the alternator for maximum efficiency - getting battery voltage is usually normal unless under sustained load. It takes less fuel to recharge the battery vs running accessories off alternator and dragging the engine. This is why it's important to replace with OE spec aH ratings- less causes undesirable levels of discharge.
 
See these two graphs I captured. The first one looks bad and the second one looks good.
In both cases the voltage rises when decelerating, and lowers when accelerating.
 

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See these two graphs I captured. The first one looks bad and the second one looks good.
In both cases the voltage rises when decelerating, and lowers when accelerating.
Both look good. If the first one was falling under 12.0 I'd be concerned, although holding 12.2+ is considered acceptable. That graph shows 12.6 which is 100% charged voltage for the battery.

Turn the defroster or heated seats on and it will provide more voltage.
 
Private sale it would suck not to disclose. I'd trade it in and let the dealer worry about it.
Yeah, sounds like the car I just bought from the dealer.... Thx
 
And what do you say to a potential buyer. We have a similar problem and want to sell our Genesis with only 10,000 miles, but we can't tell the buyer that it has no problems. And if it is a problem which can't be fixed, we don't know what to do. Right now we're waiting for AAA to show up to charge our newest battery (about 3 months old).
Hello, everyone. I also own the 15 3.8 all wheel Genesis. Only option I don't have is heads up display and lane assist. Anyway I had the same exact problem but worse. My cars battery would die in a day. I replaced the battery, I very expensive ordeal. The battery is giant. Problem still happened. I replaced the altinator, the problem still happened. All the fuses were good. Finally my local hyundai dealership diagnosed the problem as being a faulty amplifier. For whatever reason the amplifier kept drawing power when the car was not running. I replaced the amplifier last year and haven't had a problem until today but I'm pretty sure it's the electric power steering pump this time. At 120 k my car is a 2015 so 8 years old and I may have to replace the power steering pump. I can live with that. I hope this helps someone.
 
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