Honestly, has there anyone that had transmission failure due to bad oil? I'm at 194k transmission shift fine and never changed the oil just because
1. it cost $1k+ to do it and 2. the technician says its not really need it as it is lifetime.
to me, if a dealership want to rip you off they wouldnt say that and would take on that job.
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Education includes Auto shop in high school and one year working in an automatic transmission rebuild shop in Montreal Canada
The proper answer to your question is have you ever seen an automatic transmission shop in business ? Do they make good money ? Answer: yes, DOZENS in every city. If they are good, they are nonstop busy. Why does everybody purchase the extended warranty that covers modern automatics ?
Now if your real question is, how do Genesis transmissions transmissions look as they accumulate mileage, here are some guidelines. # 1 HOW DO YOU DRIVE ? People like me drive them for everyday simple trips and extended vacations. Heat build up, minimal. (There is a reason they are sealed, less moisture and dirt means fluid is contaminated less)
Heat soak, (comes with summer overloading, drag racing, or towing) means the fluid tends to run from June - Oct OVER 200 degrees F. especially in stop and go traffic. As soon as your average fluid temperature goes consistently ABOVE 185 F, it starts to degrade (usually visible in the color) proportional to temperature increase. It gets worse with the passing years.
There are other issues, too. The transmission shop I worked in always installed an additional in line filter/cleaner (1/3 strong magnet) during rebuilds to continue to clean lines returning from the radiator to handle transmission ''blow ups'' and ''hidden metal''. But the shop owner liked to remove them after 2 weeks - one month TO AVOID RESTRICTING OIL FLOW.
Which brings me to the subject of
aftermarket cleaner automatic fluid filters and transmission coolers. I like both of them, BUT.
I was talking two weeks ago with an Aamco manager shop owner about my 2014 Genesis. He doesn't like to use an additional inline filter (normally just left there) and feels that these transmissions are not SO strong that nothing can go wrong. He believes that the built in filter ? part of the pan ? and factory magnets work just fine. He is worried about anything that might reduce or RESTRICT oil flow and hurt either the transmission pump or transmission itself.
So my gut feeling (and experience) is to go with the factory change and IF the pan is steel, AND if there is room, I would add an additional very powerful quality magnet to the bottom to catch and hold some additional ferrous metal. I might not want to add to additional items in the transmission oil flow. One, maybe, but not a transmission cooler and the popular magnetic filter cleaner upper, (except for one or two weeks)
One last thing that isn't discussed too much. Automatic transmission coolers, especially large capacity ones CAN OVERCOOL AND CAUSE PROBLEMS IN WINTER CLIMATES ! For this reason, they need some way to deal with that: either a bimetallic bypass valve (now things are getting more complicated ! ) or something else. Fluid at 22 F doesn't like to flow ! Think of the line as being blocked. The very first GM 700R4 transmissions with the 7 vane pumps actually could blow up on start up ! It is not an issue in 70 degree climates. My answer, a couple of years back was to purchase the Canadian made Dana automatic transmission cooler which has five tubes going horizontally from inlet to outlet. Here is how it works: the first 1/3 of the cooler has large holes and allows a large amount of fluid to bypass the cooler in freezing temperatures. The hole size in each of the tubes gradually becomes smaller, thus you avoid startup restriction, yet it works properly year round, because the Dana unit works well WITHOUT additional parts.
