Official 0-60 & 1/4 mile thread

[Vortex951]

Remember...when you approach 1/8 of a tank...ECU shuts down as a safety. So stay close to 1/4 for any weight advantage.

That’s something I actually have never thought about And for me the track is like a 40 min drive so I usually go there with a full tank anyway. Makes quite a bit of sense tho.

 

[Slip_Angle]

Well... Here's a theory..

87 Octane burns faster than 91 possibly producing more power in cold conditions? In summer when hot, the car would need higher octane to maintain timing when heat soaked. If the ECU is programmed for a specific timing and boost level, maybe it only gets decreased with minor knock is observed. So essentially the engine is set to a specific specification based on summer type conditions but because it's cold here and 87 burns faster, the engine has more power?

Todd? lol

 

[Toddasaurus]

Well... Here's a theory..

87 Octane burns faster than 91 possibly producing more power in cold conditions? In summer when hot, the car would need higher octane to maintain timing when heat soaked. If the ECU is programmed for a specific timing and boost level, maybe it only gets decreased with minor knock is observed. So essentially the engine is set to a specific specification based on summer type conditions but because it's cold here and 87 burns faster, the engine has more power?

Todd? lol

I think you've got the right idea. Essentially, right now your engine is not taking advantage of the increased octane. To fix this quickly, just reset the ECU by removing the negative battery cable for at least 10 minutes, then the ECU can re-learn some 'safe' ignition timing values. After this, drive around for a bit to let it learn its new limits, then give it a go again!

If that doesn't do it, then either the ECU has its learned values protected, and/or its ignition timing control adaptive algorithm is more complicated that what I understand (which is most likely the case, regardless! Haha).

Edit: added one more thought.

 

[Vortex951]

Well... Here's a theory..

87 Octane burns faster than 91 possibly producing more power in cold conditions? In summer when hot, the car would need higher octane to maintain timing when heat soaked. If the ECU is programmed for a specific timing and boost level, maybe it only gets decreased with minor knock is observed. So essentially the engine is set to a specific specification based on summer type conditions but because it's cold here and 87 burns faster, the engine has more power?

Todd? lol

Hopefully he can help. I’ll toss in my 2 cents about fuel tho.
I personally wouldn’t say the 87 burns faster. In my mind I would actually say the opposite. The higher your octane is the lower the flashpoint is of that fuel. Which is why higher octane burn cooler. As an example I had a built 450cc dirt bike and blew it up in about 20 minutes of riding on a fresh motor due to 91 octane for my fuel. Rebuilt the motor and switched up to vp racing U4.2. I think it’s around 110 octane and not cheap by any means But bike ran fine never over heated as expected.

So my theory is maybe the 91 created a little wheel spin that you maybe are not noticing??? Since the 91 should created more power do to lower flash point and less heat robbing the motor.

Todd help us understand please!!!!!!

 

[Beefer]

One more thing...when you change octane...it takes about 30 minutes of easy driving for the ECU to learn. Not to mention for everything to mix in the tank.

I can confirm the colder the better.

You need some serious patience after changing octane...LOL.

After octane increase...minimum 1/4 tank...drive around for 30 minutes...no punching it...ZERO. No cheating!!

After the ECU adjusts...hang on and enjoy.

 

[joschneider]

One more thing...when you change octane...it takes about 30 minutes of easy driving for the ECU to learn. Not to mention for everything to mix in the tank.

I can confirm the colder the better.

You need some serious patience after changing octane...LOL.

After octane increase...minimum 1/4 tank...drive around for 30 minutes...no punching it...ZERO. No cheating!!

After the ECU adjusts...hang on and enjoy.

He did mention driving it for the day on the new tank but no clue how many minutes of driving it was

I’m thinking wheelspin or ecu pulling back a little due to low fuel

 

[Slip_Angle]

One more thing...when you change octane...it takes about 30 minutes of easy driving for the ECU to learn. Not to mention for everything to mix in the tank.

I can confirm the colder the better.

You need some serious patience after changing octane...LOL.

After octane increase...minimum 1/4 tank...drive around for 30 minutes...no punching it...ZERO.

After the ECU adjusts...hang on and enjoy.

First day I just drove it, second day did some runs with the needle between 1/4 and 1/2 tank. Third day 1/4 to 1/8.

Testing is far from over so I'll take everyone's advise and keep up the science!

I'm AWD so no wheel spin

 

[joschneider]

Well there goes my ideas, unless you’re getting wheel spin you don’t notice...which I highly doubt. It will be interesting to see if pulling the battery does anything at all, I would think regular driving and pulls would be enough to do it. But; science will prevail

 

[Beefer]

First day I just drove it, second day did some runs with the needle between 1/4 and 1/2 tank. Third day 1/4 to 1/8.

Testing is far from over so I'll take everyone's advise and keep up the science!

I'm AWD so no wheel spin

Another thing I perfected.

1/4 tank (but I’m 99 octane Map 3)...use LC.

BUT...I put it in manual...for 1st gear only. Play with LC. You can sometimes get it over 2,200 rpm. If you can’t...stop. Try again. I was finally able to launch at about 2,400. Once you’ve exhausted 1st...switch to AT and let the car take over.

That’s how I pulled off a 3.8 second run. Took a while...but I mastered it. Zero wheel spin...f$%ker just took off.

50F...zero humidity...near sea level.

With brake snip...easily 3.6 seconds. But I’m not doing it.

Bob’s yer uncle.

 

[joschneider]

Another thing I perfected.

1/4 tank (but I’m 99 octane Map 3)...use LC.

BUT...I put it in manual...for 1st gear only. Play with LC. You can sometimes get it over 2,200 rpm. If you can’t...stop. Try again. I was finally able to launch at about 2,400. Once you’ve exhausted 1st...switch to AT and let the car take over.

That’s how I pulled off a 3.8 second run. Took a while...but I mastered it. Zero wheel spin...f$%ker just took off.

Hmm so manual mode for first can sometimes allow a higher than 2200 launch? This is some high level tips and tricks shit. I’m gonna try that soon

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[Beefer]

^ it’s momentarily...you have to jump on it quickly. Sometimes it gets past 2,200...but then goes down.

You guys will see what I mean.

You can even play with the parking brake trick...but I couldn’t do it. Kinda worked once. Car kept creeping.

I haven’t even played with Map 5. Car bogs. I think you need over 100 octane for Map 5 to rock. Not worth the extra BOOSTane for me (gets too expensive).

 

[Vortex951]

Another thing I perfected.

1/4 tank (but I’m 99 octane Map 3)...use LC.

BUT...I put it in manual...for 1st gear only. Play with LC. You can sometimes get it over 2,200 rpm. If you can’t...stop. Try again. I was finally able to launch at about 2,400. Once you’ve exhausted 1st...switch to AT and let the car take over.

That’s how I pulled off a 3.8 second run. Took a while...but I mastered it. Zero wheel spin...f$%ker just took off.

50F...zero humidity...near sea level.

With brake snip...easily 3.6 seconds. But I’m not doing it.

Bob’s yer uncle.

So for switching to auto.... when you shift to second gear are you holding the up shift paddle on the shift so it switches to auto at the same time? Or is there a different method?

 

[Vortex951]

^ it’s momentarily...you have to jump on it quickly. Sometimes it gets past 2,200...but then goes down.

You guys will see what I mean.

You can even play with the parking brake trick...but I couldn’t do it. Kinda worked once. Car kept creeping.

I haven’t even played with Map 5. Car bogs. I think you need over 100 octane for Map 5 to rock. Not worth the extra BOOSTane for me (gets too expensive).

I run map 5 a lot. But my trick is to use Boostane to get up to about 97 (since I only have 91 availible) and I also use an e30 blend. So basically it’s 97 and e85 to help with the little bump to make map5 run strong. Works good on map7 as well but I need to test more with straight race gas for map7. One day I’ll pony up for the good ole ms109

 

[Beefer]

So for switching to auto.... when you shift to second gear are you holding the up shift paddle on the shift so it switches to auto at the same time? Or is there a different method?

Honestly...I don’t remember

I don’t switch to 2nd...but rather switch to AT and it immediately takes over. I think I just hit the console shifter to D to force it back to AT.

So start in 1st MT...then at 5,500 rpm (or higher...forgot the sweet spot)...hit it into D.

You know you’ve nailed it because your neck snaps back...and your head is planted. Both hands on the wheel...it’s f’ing seriously intense.

 

[Vortex951]

Honestly...I don’t remember

I don’t switch to 2nd...but rather switch to AT and it immediately takes over. I think I just hit the console shifter to D to force it back to AT.

So start in 1st MT...then at 5,500 rpm (or higher...forgot the sweet spot)...hit it into D.

You know you’ve nailed it because your neck snaps back...and your head is planted. Both hands on the wheel...it’s f’ing seriously intense.

I’m gonna give that a try this weekend. Just just on map 2 and see how that goes

 

[Beefer]

^ you know...I never do LC anymore. I just floor it and that’s good enough.

But the most fun is over 30mph...or on the interstate. This thing just sings...blows my mind every time. This car is the most fun out of anything I’ve owned...by far. I’ve owned fast cars

 

[Vortex951]

I probably won’t be using lc. Since I have my switch off right now so I can brake boost. But I feel like I am not the most consistent with the shifting so another thing I want to try is just going full auto and see if just letting the car do all work is better. But def agree on pinching it around 30-40. Even with my cup 2s I still get a little squirly dropping the hammer like that. Love it more and more each time I do it

 

[Slip_Angle]

Good tips beef! I'll give them a shot.

 

[Vortex951]

Well gave one launch a try. Shifted to 2nd at 5564 rpm and held the shift to get back into auto so the car could do the rest of the work. I think this is the best launch I’ve gotten on map 2. Still full air in the tires as well. Held 3psi from first gear to help keep traction

 

[Toddasaurus]

Well gave one launch a try. Shifted to 2nd at 5564 rpm and held the shift to get back into auto so the car could do the rest of the work. I think this is the best launch I’ve gotten on map 2. Still full air in the tires as well. Held 3psi from first gear to help keep traction

Nice!

How full was your tank?