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15in subwoofer install in my 2015 Genesis with the premium 17 speaker system

I am purchasing a inline converter to tap into the rear deck speakers. I am finding out the rear speaks are impossible to get too. Does a inline converter work like you hooked yours up to existing amp wires. I have a 2015 sedan, ty,
Yes, that is how I connected my aftermarket amp. I tapped the factory amp subwoofer speaker output channel and the remote turn on lead. The line-out converter is connected to the subwoofer speaker output. The factory amp remote wire goes directly to my aftermarket amp turn-on input. I used wire taps to acquire the signals from the stock amp wiring harness.
 
Hello all!
I just bought a 2019 Genesis G70 (15 speaker premium sound package). Like most of you in this thread, I thought the sound system was good but could be improved with a subwoofer.
I bought a Rockford Fosgate P300-10T subwoofer and I"m all ready to go except for insuring that I have the right wires identified. I have looked at carguy75's posts and plan to use wires 4 & 5 of Connector A for my subwoofer signal and wire 22 of Connector B for my remote signal.
I can't find any schematics (for free) online, so I'm hoping it's the same?
 
With the lockdown going in I decided to give this a try with a sub and amp I bought at a best buy that closed down about 6 years ago. I got 2 Polk DXI12's a single box, a dual box, a Pioneer GM-5400T and a zero gauge install kit for $100 out the door. I didn't realize that non of it would fit in the trunk of my Sentra at the time so it has been sitting in my basement all these years until this past weekend! Yes I know that these are entry level subs and amp and I went with just the single sub and even with the gain control turned down and the head set bass set to 2 this thing thumps. Even classic rock sounds great now. The hardest part of this install was removing all the lining in the trunk. Skipped the inline converter and just taped into the stock amp -,+ and control and it was up and running!
Can you post some pics?
 
I have decided to install a 15in Power Acoustic subwoofer in my Genesis to gain a bit more low end sound. The stock system sounds good to me but the bass response is fairly weak with the stock sub.

I am collecting the items needed for the install such as amp kit, line out adapter, and some tap screws.

I originally was thinking that I had to tap an signal wire from the rear deck subwoofer that requires me to remove the deck deck panel(and rear seat), however I learned that the stock amp is located in trunk behind the trunk liner on the driver side. Therefore, I would only have to tap the wires that send the sound to the stock subwoofer which makes this install much easier than I thought it would be. I would be able to do the entire sub/amp install inside the trunk area since the battery is also located in the trunk as well. The only panel I would need to remove would be the trunk liner/trim panels.

I will only set the amp crossover to send the subwoofer a really low 40hz signal so that it only provides a low end response that I can feel in the driver seat without being "boomy" and overpowering the rest of the sound from the other speakers.

I used this subwoofer in another car(2005 Mercury Montego) in the same fashion to boost the stock premium sound system with weak 6X9 subs in the rear deck. The sound was amazing, clean and solid.

I will do a DIY on the install for anyone else who wants to add a subwoofer to the stock Genesis system.

The sub mounted in my old 2005 Mercury Montego AWD Premium
33422960003_original.jpg

33422960004_original.jpg




How the sub looks in my Genesis trunk when I test fitted it.
How wide is that gap.. Wider than 32inches?? I asked because I'm looking into getting a dual box.. Here are the measurements..
  • Enclosure Sub Size: Dual 10" Square
  • Dimensions in Inches: 32" Width x 14.5" Depth x 12" Height
 
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  • Enclosure Sub Size: Dual 10" Square
  • Dimensions in Inches: 32" Width x 14.5" Depth x 12" Height
My box is about 15in high x 24 1/4in long and it fits snug in the rear trunk nook area.
 
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Today I finished the subwoofer install and it sounds great. I ended up bypassing the LOC converter signal sensing feature and connected the amp remote power wire to the stock amp accessory power wire and it works perfectly. The Crunch amp turns and off like the stock amp.

I have the Crunch amp turned all the way down so that bass is not overbearing compared to the stock speakers. The sub hits hard and deep without waking up the neighborhood. I tested the sound with a higher setting and it was too loud for easy listening while having my garage sound like an audio installation shop. I actually turn the input amp level to the lowest setting as well as the LOC. The amp crossover is set to 40hz so that it just produce bass that can be felt in the driver seat similar to my home stereo system with a 10in Polk subwoofer. I am happy with the results. The 15in sub really highlights how weak the stock sub is in providing clean sounding bass that can be felt.

My power and ground wires connected.



The LOC connected and secured with 3M tape.



The proper diagram for the 17 speaker premium sound system and the correct wires to tap for remote power and a signal for sound.


Stock amp accessory wire tapped to remote power the aftermarket amp.


The finished product

Today I finished the subwoofer install and it sounds great. I ended up bypassing the LOC converter signal sensing feature and connected the amp remote power wire to the stock amp accessory power wire and it works perfectly. The Crunch amp turns and off like the stock amp.

I have the Crunch amp turned all the way down so that bass is not overbearing compared to the stock speakers. The sub hits hard and deep without waking up the neighborhood. I tested the sound with a higher setting and it was too loud for easy listening while having my garage sound like an audio installation shop. I actually turn the input amp level to the lowest setting as well as the LOC. The amp crossover is set to 40hz so that it just produce bass that can be felt in the driver seat similar to my home stereo system with a 10in Polk subwoofer. I am happy with the results. The 15in sub really highlights how weak the stock sub is in providing clean sounding bass that can be felt.

My power and ground wires connected.



The LOC connected and secured with 3M tape.



The proper diagram for the 17 speaker premium sound system and the correct wires to tap for remote power and a signal for sound.


Stock amp accessory wire tapped to remote power the aftermarket amp.


The finished product

Does the loc need to be grounded. When rca' s are plugged into anp at start up my factory amp turn off. If left unplugged the factory amp turns on and sound play out of factory speakers. I didn't hook up ground or power wire to loc..are they needed. And I only tapped into sub out put from factory amp only with one set of wires.. and do I only need one rca or two.. the red one seams to not work properly. But biggest problem is factory amp being kicked off unless rca not in my after market amp. If I turn on then plug in after factory radio is on . It stays on but repeats if I turn off
 
Does the loc need to be grounded. When rca' s are plugged into anp at start up my factory amp turn off. If left unplugged the factory amp turns on and sound play out of factory speakers. I didn't hook up ground or power wire to loc..are they needed. And I only tapped into sub out put from factory amp only with one set of wires.. and do I only need one rca or two.. the red one seams to not work properly. But biggest problem is factory amp being kicked off unless rca not in my after market amp. If I turn on then plug in after factory radio is on . It stays on but repeats if I turn off
Not in my setup. I decided not use the power sensing remote feature on my LOC, therefore no power or grounding needed.

I cannot help troubleshoot a problem online without some pictures to help. Please add some pictures of your install so that I can try to help.
 
Today I finished the subwoofer install and it sounds great. I ended up bypassing the LOC converter signal sensing feature and connected the amp remote power wire to the stock amp accessory power wire and it works perfectly. The Crunch amp turns and off like the stock amp.

I have the Crunch amp turned all the way down so that bass is not overbearing compared to the stock speakers. The sub hits hard and deep without waking up the neighborhood. I tested the sound with a higher setting and it was too loud for easy listening while having my garage sound like an audio installation shop. I actually turn the input amp level to the lowest setting as well as the LOC. The amp crossover is set to 40hz so that it just produce bass that can be felt in the driver seat similar to my home stereo system with a 10in Polk subwoofer. I am happy with the results. The 15in sub really highlights how weak the stock sub is in providing clean sounding bass that can be felt.

My power and ground wires connected.



The LOC connected and secured with 3M tape.



The proper diagram for the 17 speaker premium sound system and the correct wires to tap for remote power and a signal for sound.


Stock amp accessory wire tapped to remote power the aftermarket amp.


The finished product

Do u know what colors are the 4 and 5 sub output wires are
 
Do u know what colors are the 4 and 5 sub output wires are
No. I forgot the exact wire colors. You will have to use the diagram I used in post #3 of this thread.
 
I have issue. I was fixing my remote wire from amp the tabs kept coming loose. So I got tired of always removing things to get to amp. I decided to strap remote wire from amp & roll the amp remote wire around the amp strapped wire . While I was doing that the remote wire touched amp while it was plugged in forgot to disconnect. Now my screen won't turn on . I'm thinking it's fuse because screen was on but there was no sound than when I Turned off car & on . Screen wouldn't come on . Or could it be the amp . But the amp is actually on because I can hear the fan rolling . Any clues ?
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I have issue. I was fixing my remote wire from amp the tabs kept coming loose. So I got tired of always removing things to get to amp. I decided to strap remote wire from amp & roll the amp remote wire around the amp strapped wire . While I was doing that the remote wire touched amp while it was plugged in forgot to disconnect. Now my screen won't turn on . I'm thinking it's fuse because screen was on but there was no sound than when I Turned off car & on . Screen wouldn't come on . Or could it be the amp . But the amp is actually on because I can hear the fan rolling . Any clues ?
I would check the radio/amp fuse located in the fuse box in the trunk. Hopefully, you just blew a fuse and not shorted out the amp itself.
 
I tired removing the 25 AMP . Fuse from trunk. Tested it . It was fine . Even bought Fuse tester tested all the Fuses. The ACC/remote wire touched the actual AMP when I was Rewiring. Thats when bluelink displayed a message on screen telling me A possible condition with your Engine Control System has been detected . But no engine light or anything everything works . But no sound from parking sensors tired pressing button to see if it was turned off no luck . I'm thinking the acc wire don't have enough voltage to create shortage in amp to be enough to fry it . I want able to test the other fuses due to them being sealed/ see through. I seen that horn/emergency parking brake one 1 & 2 & ACC share same Fuse. I will try to see if the horn works in morning. I have warranty till 113k I currently have 90k but its third party. From hyundai. closest appointment I could get was the 25 of May. So hopefully they cover it because I've never did any warranty work & im still financing car. But when it happened the screen was still on but there was no sound. So I turned off car & screen wouldn't turn on . Dose the amp have somthing to do with that or there's couple issues ?
 
I tired removing the 25 AMP . Fuse from trunk. Tested it . It was fine . Even bought Fuse tester tested all the Fuses. The ACC/remote wire touched the actual AMP when I was Rewiring. Thats when bluelink displayed a message on screen telling me A possible condition with your Engine Control System has been detected . But no engine light or anything everything works . But no sound from parking sensors tired pressing button to see if it was turned off no luck . I'm thinking the acc wire don't have enough voltage to create shortage in amp to be enough to fry it . I want able to test the other fuses due to them being sealed/ see through. I seen that horn/emergency parking brake one 1 & 2 & ACC share same Fuse. I will try to see if the horn works in morning. I have warranty till 113k I currently have 90k but its third party. From hyundai. closest appointment I could get was the 25 of May. So hopefully they cover it because I've never did any warranty work & im still financing car. But when it happened the screen was still on but there was no sound. So I turned off car & screen wouldn't turn on . Dose the amp have somthing to do with that or there's couple issues ?
The issue is beyond my basic knowledge of the working of the Genesis electronics. My best advice is to remove the aftermarket amp before your service appt and hope that Hyundai will repair the issue under warranty.

Note: Always remove the radio fuse or negative battery cable when working on the Genesis radio or amp to prevent mistakes like this.
 
Thank you very much . Yeah I did completely removed everything . Mistake learned you live to learn lol
 
Thank you very much . Yeah I did completely removed everything . Mistake learned you live to learn lol
What?

So the system still shorted even though you removed the radio/amp fuse and battery cable?

Weird; if I am understanding you correctly, because the stock amp remote power lead should not have been powered to cause an issue even if you touched something with it like the metal stock amp case.
 
So I got everything hooked up ran it off factory amp like stated above using the diagram provide it worked for maybe 15 minutes or so cut car off to see if it got feedback when I turned it on and it did then got no sound at all. Did some trouble shooting and when I have rcas connected I lose all sound, I unplug them turn the car off and back on and sound returns. If rcas are in i turn the car off and back on I have no sound figured maybe someone could help me.
 
So I got everything hooked up ran it off factory amp like stated above using the diagram provide it worked for maybe 15 minutes or so cut car off to see if it got feedback when I turned it on and it did then got no sound at all. Did some trouble shooting and when I have rcas connected I lose all sound, I unplug them turn the car off and back on and sound returns. If rcas are in i turn the car off and back on I have no sound figured maybe someone could help me.
Post a few pictures of your install so we can better help you please.
 
Post a few pictures of your install so we can better help you please.
Will do I’ll have to go back in later and reconnect it all i undid it all. I used this diagram using the converter box and tapped the remote from the box and my amp into the factory amps remote. The ground on the converter went to factory amp ground and the did the speaker wires tapped into factory subwoofer.
 
What color wires are the subwoofer positive and negative
 
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