G80 under-body panels on a 2015 Genesis 5.0 for easier oil changes.

[carguy75]

Why bother with replacement panels or jacking the car up?

I posted this elsewhere but in case you haven't seen it...

You can buy a 14mm x1.5 to -6an adapter and use a -6an hose and run it to the outer side of the car behind the front left wheel well. There's also a barbed adapter available that will fit the pan thread to a dash 6 hose so you don't have to use a second female hose end. I had all these parts except for the pan adapter.

Put a female/barbed hose end at the outer end with a -6 cap. I drilled two small holes for a tyrap to keep it in place. For extra insurance, I safety wired a wrap around the hose for each barbed fitting. The hose easily routes under the cross member to the outed edge of the panel. (I put some sticky back foam at any place there could be chaffing) Leave a little extra hose (3-4") to pull out from the panel and over a drain pan. You'll only have to jack the car up once to install it.

View attachment 30116

The shot above had the hose routed over the crossmember but I changed it to go under, as below.

View attachment 30117

View attachment 30118

This whole thing shouldn't cost over $40 or so in parts. Next time you drain the oil... snip the tyrap, pull the hose out over a pan and remove the cap. That end of the panel hung down a bit so I drilled a hole in the two panels and put in one of those plastic spreader plugs to hold them together.

Why bother jacking or removing the panels? So that I can change my oil filter for one.

Nice workaround by using a hose. Very creative.

 

[Kraig Wilkinson]

Not sure I understand what a -6an adapter is. Is that a spec for hoses?

So is the hose under pressure when the engine is running?

No pressure while running.

 

[arcman]

AN is aerospace/aircraft standard. Each dash number represents 1/16", hence -6 is 6/16" or 3/8". I went this route 'cause I have a bunch of hose and fittings laying around. Any 3/8" ID hose (oil rated) should do as there would be very little pressure in the pan but there are many ratings on hose types as to materials, layers, permeability and abrasion. That blue Goodridge hose I used is about as stout as I've seen in rubber hose without the stainless braid covering. Not cheap though.

I recently learned a new one about hose ratings and permeability (thanks to another member here). I installed a catch can system using around 6 feet of 5/16" fuel/oil rated hose. Within a couple weeks of installing, each time I'd enter the garage after the car had been sitting after a drive, the garage smelled of fuel/oil vapor. I would have never imagined but the heated vapor in the hose is small enough to permeate the 1/8" thick rubber wall. I replaced the hose with a multi layered one that has a much higher permeability rating recently and no smell yet (only a week so far). The outside of the hose I took off absolutely reeked of that smell.

One more thing I need to note... I just looked back and noticed I forgot to mention this. If you consider installing a hose like this, the oil ends up running through a 5/16" hole (the an fittings). That's small compared to the drain plug. With hot oil, I'm guessing it will take a good ten minutes, maybe 15 to drain (maybe longer... I only did a test). With cold oil, don't bother... it's painful. On the other hand, laying down along side the car to do this is WAY easier than jacking the thing up in the air and crawling underneath.

As mentioned in an earlier post... you can remove the filter on a 3.8L from above with a small tray under it.

 

[carguy75]

AN is aerospace/aircraft standard. Each dash number represents 1/16", hence -6 is 6/16" or 3/8". I went this route 'cause I have a bunch of hose and fittings laying around. Any 3/8" ID hose (oil rated) should do as there would be very little pressure in the pan but there are many ratings on hose types as to materials, layers, permeability and abrasion. That blue Goodridge hose I used is about as stout as I've seen in rubber hose without the stainless braid covering. Not cheap though.

I recently learned a new one about hose ratings and permeability (thanks to another member here). I installed a catch can system using around 6 feet of 5/16" fuel/oil rated hose. Within a couple weeks of installing, each time I'd enter the garage after the car had been sitting after a drive, the garage smelled of fuel/oil vapor. I would have never imagined but the heated vapor in the hose is small enough to permeate the 1/8" thick rubber wall. I replaced the hose with a multi layered one that has a much higher permeability rating recently and no smell yet (only a week so far). The outside of the hose I took off absolutely reeked of that smell.

One more thing I need to note... I just looked back and noticed I forgot to mention this. If you consider installing a hose like this, the oil ends up running through a 5/16" hole (the an fittings). That's small compared to the drain plug. With hot oil, I'm guessing it will take a good ten minutes, maybe 15 to drain (maybe longer... I only did a test). With cold oil, don't bother... it's painful. On the other hand, laying down along side the car to do this is WAY easier than jacking the thing up in the air and crawling underneath.

As mentioned in an earlier post... you can remove the filter on a 3.8L from above with a small tray under it.

Sound like a great workaround to me to change the oil without removing the under body panels. I would consider this method if I did not have the 5.0 engine which requires the oil filter to be removed from under the car.

As it stands, having panel doors on the underbody panels(stock or custom) is still the best method to change the oil and oil filter for the 2015+ V8 engine.

V6 owners appears to have a few more options.

 

[Bradski]

I had just picked up the under body panel doors. I was going to just cut a hole and add the access doors. Try to save some $. But I know I wont like the non factory look. I will try it though.

I'm thinking about this too. Do you have any pictures or tips?

 

[Andyj]

Someone posted pictures of installing the access doors in a thread here.

 

[AggieAloha]

Came on here looking for a single jackpoint to lift entire front or entire rear - and came across this nugget of a thread. I have a 2015 3.8 2WD (I believe last year for FWD) and was wondering if anyone has tried the panel swap for a 3.8 2WD; or simply cut and install the panel hatch for the filter and drain plug. Thanks again for the great thoughts in making our lives easier.

 

[AggieAloha]

FYI for those pre-G80 3.8 Sedan owners, the Fumoto F106S-LC10 doesn't fit without an extender - can't screw it in without hitting the oil pan body. Will have to return and get the SX swivel model, or purchase an extender.

 

[millemk]

I had just picked up the under body panel doors. I was going to just cut a hole and add the access doors. Try to save some $. But I know I wont like the non factory look. I will try it though.

Could you advise how the access door add worked for you? Any hole cut dimensioning, location, or tab mounting issues?

 

[Kraig Wilkinson]

Could you advise how the access door add worked for you? Any hole cut dimensioning, location, or tab mounting issues?

I never did get around to tackling it yet. I wanted to wait for my next oil change and do it while on a lift.

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[Beeswax]

Came on here looking for a single jackpoint to lift entire front or entire rear - and came across this nugget of a thread. I have a 2015 3.8 2WD (I believe last year for FWD) and was wondering if anyone has tried the panel swap for a 3.8 2WD; or simply cut and install the panel hatch for the filter and drain plug. Thanks again for the great thoughts in making our lives easier.

Try searching this title below in search box and might take you to a thread I posted about these panels..
" EZ Oil & Filter Change on 2015-2016 Models (DIY Access Panel/Covers) "

 

[DMartin]

Hello - I have a 2017 G80 3.8 Ultimate and purchased the 2 under covers for the under car panels. I just installed them and they are going to make my oil changes so much easier. I spent about $60 for these. Cut out the openings for the covers with a skill saw and used plastic fasteners to attach them. I will also replace the drain plug with a Fumoto drain plug I purchased. Took about 3 hours to do. I would recommend doing this modification.

 

[carguy75]

Hello - I have a 2017 G80 3.8 Ultimate and purchased the 2 under covers for the under car panels. I just installed them and they are going to make my oil changes so much easier. I spent about $60 for these. Cut out the openings for the covers with a skill saw and used plastic fasteners to attach them. I will also replace the drain plug with a Fumoto drain plug I purchased. Took about 3 hours to do. I would recommend doing this modification.

Pics please!!!

 

[carguy75]

Update: 2 years later and the Fumoto F106S valve and covers are still working as designed. The cover functionality is no surprise since they have no moving parts or seals, but I was not sure about the Fumoto valve or its gasket long-term reliability. So far so good. The Fumoto valve is leak free and work as needed after several oil changes.

My most recent oil change a few days ago was easy as pie and only require me to lift the front end and zip off the oil plug/filter hatch bolts. No drain bolt and washer to deal with nor removing large covers.


The Fumoto valve and 2017+ under-body covers is a must for DIY owners like myself who do their own oil changes on the 2015+ Genesis/G80 models, unless you like to remove a ton of bolts and clips every oil change; while trying to balance the covers over your head when trying to reinstall them.

 

[melsawy]

I see people posting buying these panels for less than 100$.. I am having a hard time finding anything close to this price (2015 G80 3.8L).

Also does anyone know if the front or rear panels are the ones that extend to the passenger side? when I look underneath the car I can see my panel torn right underneath the passenger. I am unable to lift my car so know which panel that is (front or rear). Does anyone have a sketch or a clear picture of the underside of a genesis sedan g80 2015?

 

[CortinaJ]

Only the small panel covers need to be removed to access the oil filter and drain plug. My old original 2015 under-body cover without the access doors required me to remove the entire under body cover to properly gain access to the drain plug and oil filter.

The 2017+ G80 under body cover has access doors so the entire cover do not have to be removed to change the oil.

2017, at least the 3.8, does not have them. I'm assuming it's 2018+

 

[carguy75]

2017, at least the 3.8, does not have them. I'm assuming it's 2018+

I do not know about the 3.8. I ordered 2017 under body covers for a 2wd 5.0 model.

 

[carguy75]

I do not know about the 3.8. I ordered 2017 under body covers for a 2wd 5.0 model.
View attachment 39892

Note: The 2017+ body panels for the RWD G80 5.0 is the same part numbers up to 2020 5.0 RWD models. I did think at first that I needed to buy 2018 specific parts numbers, but 2017+ G80 5.0 RWD under body covers work for the 2015 5.0 RWD model.

 

[atibbs14]

Note: The 2017+ body panels for the RWD G80 5.0 is the same part numbers up to 2020 5.0 RWD models. I did think at first that I needed to buy 2018 specific parts numbers, but 2017+ G80 5.0 RWD under body covers work for the 2015 5.0 RWD model.

I have a 2017 5.0 rwd and the panels unfortunately do not have the smaller door panels to access the drain bolt and filter.

 

[carguy75]

Well, I stand corrected. I guess the access panels were added in 2018 or maybe on some late 2017 models.

Per the website I purchased my panels from; the part numbers are for 2017-2020 Genesis G80 5.0 models.