@kocyk123 I really appreciate all of these notes, looking for some advice since I see you are still posting in here!
I have a Skar DDX 12 in a tiny sealed box in my Mustang GT, so I've taken that one out and bought a second along with a Skar RP2000.1 monoblock. I am about to finish building a 4.18cu. ft (gross, ~3.49 net) aeroport box tuned to 33hz. It fits perfectly against the seatback as I built it to maximize all of the back half of the trunk or so while still leaving ample room for groceries. I will be doing a full audio build in the Mustang next spring.
I got a Wav Tech Link DQ Line Out Converter/Line Driver which I am planning to take the 2 sub wires and tap into them and run them into the high levels of the LOC, skipping the accessory wire for remote since it should be able to use the signal sense with the DC offset and turn on the RP2k using the LOC remote out.
I don't see anything wrong with this? I had went to amazon and bought the RCA adapters to do it exactly as you did but I realized i can simplify it with the high level inputs. I'm rather confident this should be ok.
What I would like to know that I haven't see in this thread after reading it about 3 times is does anyone know what the clipping point of the Ultimate head unit/factory 17 speaker system is? Doing some tests fading it all the way rear with 33, 34, 35, 36, 38 and 40hz test tones I've arrived at 37/45 being perfectly safe at all tones. Lower tones will start distortion at 38 and 40hz seems ok up until ~42?
To play it safe, I'm planning to go with 35-37 max and match my gains from the LOC (has a clipping light) and amp (manually). I bought a portable Oscilloscope and a multi-meter since they are useful and I can use them.
If I put the O-scope to the expose wire of the subs after I strip some back to solder, would I be able to put the O-scope leads to it to check for clipping? Every single video on youtube shows
aftermarket head units...and i'm not about to disassemble a door just to get to the speaker.