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Adding bass to your 17 speaker Lexicon with new amplifier

Thanks again for your help!


If you ever come to Chicago area, stop by and I will do it for free. Just get the parts :-)
Hey Kocyk, I'm in Chicago, would to check it out one day, I have a sub from previous system that I'm thinking about using would like to hear ur system may end up going your route
 
Hey, I sold my Genesis almost two years ago :(
 
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Awesome! I am happy that my instructions were able to help you. And yes, what a difference, right? I felt like I got myself a new audio system. I really get to enjoy the 17 speakers now. Enjoy! 🍻
Kocky123, thanks for this R&D and then explaining it so well.
I am so inspired to do this myself on my 2015 genesis sedan. The only difference is that mine is a 14 speaker system.
Not sure if the the wiring would still be the same through the connectors.
Can you advise?
Alternatively, can you tell me where I can get a similar diagram for 14 speaker system?
Thanks in advance.
 
Hey, unfortunately the 14 speaker system will have a different diagram but I think you should be able to get it from Google Search.
 
Hey, unfortunately the 14 speaker system will have a different diagram but I think you should be able to get it from Google Search.
Kocyk123, thanks for your reply!
I have a basic question. Why cut the cables etc. Can we not attach the RCA and the AMP right at the stock sub feed in the rear?
Like remove the soldering from under the stock sub and connect RCA there. Then soldier the new speaker wire coming from the new amp directly to the stock sub.
Once again, Appreciate your continuing to participate here even after selling your Genesis.
 
Kocky123, thanks for this R&D and then explaining it so well.
I am so inspired to do this myself on my 2015 genesis sedan. The only difference is that mine is a 14 speaker system.
Not sure if the the wiring would still be the same through the connectors.
Can you advise?
Alternatively, can you tell me where I can get a similar diagram for 14 speaker system?
Thanks in advance.

Kocyk123, thanks for your reply!
I have a basic question. Why cut the cables etc. Can we not attach the RCA and the AMP right at the stock sub feed in the rear?
Like remove the soldering from under the stock sub and connect RCA there. Then soldier the new speaker wire coming from the new amp directly to the stock sub.
Once again, Appreciate your continuing to participate here even after selling your Genesis.
That would be far more work and then you wouldn't be able to control the bass levels through the factory radio. That's the main point of splicing to add an amp in line, so that you retain factory controls
 
Exactly what CrotinaJ said. My main reason for doing it this was was because I wanted to control bass with my factory radio and I didn't want additional wiring in the car and additional knobs.
 
Kocyk123, thanks for your reply!
I have a basic question. Why cut the cables etc. Can we not attach the RCA and the AMP right at the stock sub feed in the rear?
Like remove the soldering from under the stock sub and connect RCA there. Then soldier the new speaker wire coming from the new amp directly to the stock sub.
Once again, Appreciate your continuing to participate here even after selling your Genesis.
Simply put, in your method, are we tapping the preamp signal from the headunit or are we tapping into lexicon processed sound?

Please help me understand.
Thanks and regards,
 
That would be far more work and then you wouldn't be able to control the bass levels through the factory radio. That's the main point of splicing to add an amp in line, so that you retain factory controls
Oh, I just posted a question again, which looks like is answered here in your reply. So we ARE tapping into the preamp input signal by doing this.
That makes total sense.
Conceptually I was looking at just that and that's how I found this thread on this forum.
Thank you both, CortinaJ and kocyk123.

What exactly should I google to get that diagram for the 14 speaker lexicon system?
What is that diagram called.

Appreciate your feedback.
 
Oh, I just posted a question again, which looks like is answered here in your reply. So we ARE tapping into the preamp input signal by doing this.
That makes total sense.
Conceptually I was looking at just that and that's how I found this thread on this forum.
Thank you both, CortinaJ and kocyk123.

What exactly should I google to get that diagram for the 14 speaker lexicon system?
What is that diagram called.

Appreciate your feedback.
I did a small write up on this a while back

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We are tapping into Lexicon processed sound and that is what gives you the ability to control the bass with the head unit.
 
We are tapping into Lexicon processed sound and that is what gives you the ability to control the bass with the head unit.
Thank-you Kocyk123.
 
Thank-you Kocyk123.
I also did this on a 14 speaker system, can't remember exactly were I found the diagram, pretty sure it was in this thread, there were different models of amps as well and mine was the less common one iirc.
 
@kocyk123 I really appreciate all of these notes, looking for some advice since I see you are still posting in here!

I have a Skar DDX 12 in a tiny sealed box in my Mustang GT, so I've taken that one out and bought a second along with a Skar RP2000.1 monoblock. I am about to finish building a 4.18cu. ft (gross, ~3.49 net) aeroport box tuned to 33hz. It fits perfectly against the seatback as I built it to maximize all of the back half of the trunk or so while still leaving ample room for groceries. I will be doing a full audio build in the Mustang next spring.

I got a Wav Tech Link DQ Line Out Converter/Line Driver which I am planning to take the 2 sub wires and tap into them and run them into the high levels of the LOC, skipping the accessory wire for remote since it should be able to use the signal sense with the DC offset and turn on the RP2k using the LOC remote out.

I don't see anything wrong with this? I had went to amazon and bought the RCA adapters to do it exactly as you did but I realized i can simplify it with the high level inputs. I'm rather confident this should be ok.

What I would like to know that I haven't see in this thread after reading it about 3 times is does anyone know what the clipping point of the Ultimate head unit/factory 17 speaker system is? Doing some tests fading it all the way rear with 33, 34, 35, 36, 38 and 40hz test tones I've arrived at 37/45 being perfectly safe at all tones. Lower tones will start distortion at 38 and 40hz seems ok up until ~42?

To play it safe, I'm planning to go with 35-37 max and match my gains from the LOC (has a clipping light) and amp (manually). I bought a portable Oscilloscope and a multi-meter since they are useful and I can use them.

If I put the O-scope to the expose wire of the subs after I strip some back to solder, would I be able to put the O-scope leads to it to check for clipping? Every single video on youtube shows aftermarket head units...and i'm not about to disassemble a door just to get to the speaker.
 
Hey,

To be honest, I am not sure. I am not a pro at this. I just made it work he same way it worked for someone else in this group.
 
Hey no worries thanks, it worked out the way I wanted to mostly. The signal sense wasn't playing nice even with the offset so I ran the pink ACC wire to the REM in and the LOC fires up with the amp every time. Just need to sand some hard edges for looks and clearance and tune the system.

I'll do a detailed write-up with pictures soon when I revise the system. Right now I just want to get it all running well before I button it all up. This thread was a great help to me and I definitely want to share some info and I can offer help to anyone looking to add an aftermarket system.

I'm no audio pro at all, just not too scared to get into things and give it a go!
 
Awesome. I am glad you figured out another way to do it. Enjoy more bass! :)
 
Thanks! I am somewhat surprised at the output, I know our trunks are well insulated but dang. It sounded loud out of the car but inside it's underwhelming. 2000 watts in a 4 cube box is enough to shake all of the mirrors out of place but mine is far far from it. Even the single DDX on 950 watts in a 0.87 cube box shook mirrors in the mustang.

I set the gains on the LOC with the clipping light and I used the O-scope on the amp to set the gains. . Guess I'll need to revisit the tuning but I am 95% there!
 
Maybe opening the pass-through would help
 
It helps but not too much. I think it's a combo of running the speaker leads through the port temporarily as well as some leaks I will need to caulk to seal which is causing the noise. I think the rear deck is shaking to pieces since the box is touching it. Also I came from a sealed box so maybe I'm not used to the ported sound.

I'm going to return the Skar 2k for a Taramps 3k, it's not enough power for 2 DDX's. Lol going to look into adding an XS Power AGM and I may need to pursue an alternator and Big 3 wiring upgrade.

Need to make an amp rack in the spare well, it's huge in there which is great.

I got a little ambitious for my first box build and audio install, really really should have bought a table saw...I'm going to remake the box in spring as well.

Also, the support brace for the port has a huge window cut out of the front half as to not turn it into a half sealed box but I was just test fitting here.
 

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