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Custom Fab Intake for the Tau

ShadowScoobySTi

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First off, I tried searching for this question but my droid wont allow me to type in the search field. I just called Airaid to inquire what it would take for them to create an intake setup for the Tau. Apparently, Im the first person to ever call them about the Genesis. They would need a substantial demand in order for them to produce it. Airaid does offer a "you build it" set up, which Im considering.

My question is, has anyone done a custom intake setup for the Tau? If so, what did you do?

Thanks.
 
Don't waste your money. All your gonna do is make noise in the engine bay. The car isn't gonna go faster or get better fuel mileage.
 
Don't waste your money. All your gonna do is make noise in the engine bay. The car isn't gonna go faster or get better fuel mileage.

Touche. Unless you FI your car, don't bother. Plus the cotton gauze filter doesn't filter very well.
 
I'll add in my two cents.... worse filtration with aftermarket filters will lessen the life of the motor. Add on that the intake tract allows for an SRI - drawing in hot dense air. The motor gets heat soaked rather quickly... the hotter air will just mean the ECU will pull more timing, thus decreasing power.
 
I'll add in my two cents.... worse filtration with aftermarket filters will lessen the life of the motor. Add on that the intake tract allows for an SRI - drawing in hot dense air. The motor gets heat soaked rather quickly... the hotter air will just mean the ECU will pull more timing, thus decreasing power.

Cold air is more dense than hot air. the particles in cold air are moving slower and thus pack more closely together. Thus why the CAI argument holds strong. You get more air into the cylinder which then compresses better and pops stronger. That's the theory at least....
 
Cold air is more dense than hot air. the particles in cold air are moving slower and thus pack more closely together. Thus why the CAI argument holds strong. You get more air into the cylinder which then compresses better and pops stronger. That's the theory at least....

I think the problem is that most CAI's are really hot air intakes, as the filter/intake is much too close to the engine itself. I have seen long intakes also, but then the worry of water and everything else can be a problem, not to mention the questionable filtration.
 
Don't waste your money. All your gonna do is make noise in the engine bay. The car isn't gonna go faster or get better fuel mileage.

Cars nowadays don't act like the shaker-hood or ram air systems of the 60s. Like others have said, ECUs make them too smart!
 
Thanks for the feedback. I went ahead and installed the K&N drop in filter instead.
 
Cold air is more dense than hot air. the particles in cold air are moving slower and thus pack more closely together. Thus why the CAI argument holds strong. You get more air into the cylinder which then compresses better and pops stronger. That's the theory at least....


I'm quite aware of the differences between "Ice boxes" CAI's and SRI's.

The only aftermarket option at this time for offered is nothing more then bent pipe with a filter on the end. This is a very simple SRI system.

Yes sure, CAI can provide a slight amount of gain at the top end - but the issue is here its really not worth it. Why go through all the trouble of putting on an SRI when your IAT still sees hot air. You haven't done squat.

Add onto the fact you haven't provided a solution to the biggest crutch of this system. -- The highly restrictive headers...
 
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Putting a K&N filter in your car affects performance as much as changing your running shoes from Nike to Adidas. If you want to add any real power you first need the brain or the ECU of the computer to be remapped or tuned. Then you can start adjusting the air flow with intakes, headers, exhaust.
 
Putting a K&N filter in your car affects performance as much as changing your running shoes from Nike to Adidas. If you want to add any real power you first need the brain or the ECU of the computer to be remapped or tuned. Then you can start adjusting the air flow with intakes, headers, exhaust.

I agree with you. The drop in filter was more to save on replacement costs. Not a big fan of the oem filter.

I have looked around for ECU handheld tuners (diablosport, cobb, jet, superchips) and no luck. I cant even find out if the ECU is tunable.
 
I seem to disagree with some of you respecting cold air intakes and K&Ns. I am a geezer who grew up innovating hot rods, etc. This is my third Genesis. I have developed my own simple/cheap cold air intake using a K&N model #1040 cone filter attached to the OEM intake for each Genesis. I use as much of the OEM intake as possible including the ductwork leading to the OEM air filter. I have done some simple heat shielding around the exhaust manifold. The 2009 and 2011 have a BMW-style secondary filter, which I removed. I also removed the screen on the mass air flow sensor on the 2009 and 2011. There is no mass air flow sensor on the RSpec.

I am concerned about intake air temperature. The OEM system keeps the differential temp between ambient and intake to about 13-15 degrees more or less, depending on the day temp. and how long the car is driven on the highway. A car sitting in traffic will raise easily double this differential.

There is a mild power increase, and, of course, intake noise increase at full throttle. At low throttle acceleration and cruise there is no noise increase.
Gas mileage seems a bit better, which is to be expected with less pumping loss. On my 2009 and 2011 I often saw temp differences of less than ten degrees, which was a bit less than OEM. My RSpec differential is more like 13 degrees, and this may be due to a different temp probe placement on the RSpec.

My installation is easily reversible to OEM, which was an objective.

This spring I did a baseline dyno with OEM airbox and K&N filter. HP was at 352. At wide open throttle this motor, and all current motors, changes the fuel delivery system from a closed loop to an open loop system. A closed loop is designed for emissions and keeps the air fuel ratio steady at about 14.5:1, which is optimum for emissions. For mileage one might go a bit leaner. For power you want something around 13:1. When one engages wide open throttle the ECU cuts over to an open loop system and essentially dumps about as much fuel as the injectors will handle. This creates an over-rich mixture, which OEM manufactures desire as it is probably better for engine life on wide open throttle to be rich as opposed to lean. On the dyno my RSpec had a fuel mixture of about 10.5:1, which is pig rich. If one could lean open loop fuel mixture to optimum my guess is that you would gain 20-30 horsepower without any loss of economy or durability.

ECU tuners typically leave the closed loop alone, with maybe minor adjustments to lower idle on some cars. Their work is fixed on leaning open loop. Unfortunately, no one to date has broken the source code for the Hyundai ECU to allow this kind of tuning. That's the bad news. The good news is that the system is so rich on wide open throttle that there is no danger of running lean with any intake or exhaust mods. The system will also nicely adjust on closed loop for any intake and exhaust mods. I measured fuel mixtures before and after intake/exhaust mods on my 2011. There was no change to closed loop; and only minor leanness on open loop.
 
you went through all of that and you got
mild power increase, and, of course, intake noise increase at full throttle.
No one cracked the DME code? Is there anyone trying to? This engine is in 2 low production expensive luxury sedans that aren't tuner cars. I'd doubt anyone is even trying.
 
As for "mild increase", I tend to understate positions. I have not dynoed after this intake mod so I cannot definitively state a power increase. Nonetheless, there is a power increase which is also reflected in a bit better gas mileage, like about 0.75 mpg. Generally, one's seat-of-pants dyno is insensitive to changes of less than 10%.
Manufacturers of CAI have advertised 10-15 hp gain on GM products. The intake on the Hyundai is very similar in design to the intake on my '05 Cadillac CTS-V but with some more sound deadening restrictions. It's air filter was about the same size. I installed a Lingenfelter CAI, which used the K&N #1040 on a motor 0.7 liters larger than the Hyundai. As I recall, it dynoed about 12 hp more with this mod.
 
That is exactly right. A pure waste of money. If you get an air filter that flows considerably more air then you are going to trap less dirt going into your engine.
MORE AIR FLOW=LESS DIRT FILTERED.
 
Im sure they can b tuned, waiting for my tuner to give it a shot
 
I agree with most points, but my hot Ir intake put 15hp at the wheels on the Dyno. I posted on this forum with story and proven results. I would like to add a heat shield, but for now, the added horsepower makes this a cheap and very effective upgrade with proven results. The other thing you all forget is the much better sound over the stock stealth refinement. :)

Enjoyed your points. To each his own.
 
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