1st oil change on our 14' RSPEC

[JeffGST]

Racing motor oil is usually too high of viscosity, does not meet manufacturer specs for Hyundai and will void your warranty (if there is an engine problem in any way related to oil and they find out what you used).

Viscosity has nothing to do with what makes oil a "Racing Oil."

The additives manufacturers add to the oil is mainly what separates street car oil from racing oils. The larger ZDDP conentrations (Zinc and Phosphorus ppm) is why you would want to stay away from these oils in modern emission control vehicles. The zinc and phosphorus leaves a coating that will eventually destroy a catalytic converter.

Leave the VR1 in your big block Ford, but I'm sure you already knew that. And also 5000 miles on dino oil is pushing it in my book. Changing the oil only twice a year with VR1 is not something I would recommend, regardless of how few miles you put inbetween oil changes.

 

[LandoAWD]

Ugh. Did someone let another DSMer in here?

 

[amartz]

Also, in looking at pictures of oil filters on the WIX website, I don't think the WIX filter for the 2014 Genesis V8 has the same endcap configuration as the OEM filter.

Of course, the catalogue people behind those pictures (as a breed) are notorious for getting the wrong picture. I was once involved in developing an electronic version of a paper catalogue for a major manufacturer that sold kits (engine rebuild kits, etc.). I wrote a cross-check application on the data they provided me. You'd be amazed at how many V8 applications only specified 6 pistons in the kit components, as a for example, in their catalogue data, or 8 spark plugs for an in-line 6. I wouldn't trust a picture in a catalogue (online or otherwise) any more than I'd trust what a car salesman tells me.

 

[kn5owa]

A few current oil prices at WallyWorld:

5 Qt. Jugs full synthetic - plain vanilla ***

Mobil 1 -- $26.44

Valvoline -- $25.97

Quaker State -- $21.97

Pennzoil Platinum -- $25.17

And some prices for "Dino" oil, again 5 qt. jugs:

Pennzoil -- $16.47

Valvoline -- $16.74

Castrol GTX -- $15.27

And the house brand "Supertech" 30W which goes in my lawnmower $2.44/qt.

And a general observation: The selection of synthetics at Wally's, esp. in 5 qt. jugs is currently quite wide as is the variety of choices of viscosity. Something for everybody.

*** plain vanilla = no "extended" or "high" performance flavors listed.

 

[427435]

The concern about the increased price of good synthetic oil is kind of silly for people who bought a relatively expensive car. Heck, I used good synthetic oil in my 1993 Topaz!!!!

 

[LandoAWD]

I'll use the dealer syn-blend.
Full syn, in the vast majority of cases, is pointless.

 

[05king]

Jeff GST. Correct I use VR1 in the Ford because I am running a flat tappet "old school" cam and I need the ZDDP. Question on the 6 months. Does the VR1 break down that fast? I drive that car maybe 1500 miles a year.

LandoAWD. Is your comment directed towards me?

 

[Mark_888]

Of course, the catalogue people behind those pictures (as a breed) are notorious for getting the wrong picture. I was once involved in developing an electronic version of a paper catalogue for a major manufacturer that sold kits (engine rebuild kits, etc.). I wrote a cross-check application on the data they provided me. You'd be amazed at how many V8 applications only specified 6 pistons in the kit components, as a for example, in their catalogue data, or 8 spark plugs for an in-line 6. I wouldn't trust a picture in a catalogue (online or otherwise) any more than I'd trust what a car salesman tells me.

I studied the specs and the photos on the WIX site, and I think they are mostly likely actual photos of what their filters actually look like. They also have detailed specs (length, width, etc). This WIX site is not a retailer site.

I have been on this forum for quite a while, and have read a lot of posts about this subject. There has been a lot of confusion of which is the right oil filter, even when using the OEM filter, especially for the 2014 V8.

As I said before, prior to my Genesis purchase, I almost always used high quality after-market filters. But the Genesis uses a different kind of filter (cartridge) and I just came to the conclusion that there is no upside, and a lot of potential downside, to using an after-market filter on the Genesis.

A rear-view mirror is a useful tool, but if one uses it to view the entire world, it can be trouble.

 

[05king]

By the way the factory filter is made by Mahle. The napa filter is made by Mahle. They are the same filter. It's a tiny filter.

 

[homeofstone]

By the way the factory filter is made by Mahle. The napa filter is made by Mahle. They are the same filter. It's a tiny filter.

Good find and research. I sometimes purchase the Mahle or Hyundai brand from Amazon to save time. The Mahle number is OX351D.

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[05king]

although the filter was cheaper from the dealer (like a buck cheaper) but the Napa is just closer to me. I ended up putting Mobil 1 Full synthetic. That 5w-20 is some thin oil.

 

[LandoAWD]

LandoAWD. Is your comment directed towards me?

Nah, it's a general comment. The value of synthetic is oversold.

 

[Mark_888]

Nah, it's a general comment. The value of synthetic is oversold.

The price difference between conventional oil and synthetic oil is exaggerated (at least if you buy at Walmart in 5 quart jugs).

 

[Mark_888]

although the filter was cheaper from the dealer (like a buck cheaper) but the Napa is just closer to me. I ended up putting Mobil 1 Full synthetic. That 5w-20 is some thin oil.

I personally use Mobil 1 5W-30, since I believe that manufacturers only recommend 5W-20 to improve EPA MPG estimates, and not to improve engine longevity.

Mobil 1 0W-30 Advanced Fuel Economy (AFE) is also a very good oil, and probably gets the same MPG as 5W-30.

 

[JeffGST]

Jeff GST. Correct I use VR1 in the Ford because I am running a flat tappet "old school" cam and I need the ZDDP. Question on the 6 months. Does the VR1 break down that fast? I drive that car maybe 1500 miles a year.

LandoAWD. Is your comment directed towards me?

Valvoline VR1 is designed for added protection, not longevity. The ZDDP content is great for lubrication, but the lack of the amount of detergents is what will cause the oil to "break down" sooner. The detergents keep engine surfaces clean, but with VR1 there really isn't enough to keep it from forming deposits on it once oxidation sets in.

Deposits on engine parts are what causes the oil to sludge up. You can probably guess which location of the engine begins to lose lubrication the earliest with sludge build up... It's the valvetrain since it is the furthest away from the oil pump, and it has the smallest oil galleys. The exact reason why you are pouring in VR1 in the first place is the area that is receiving the least lubrication when VR1 breaks down.

Oh, and I think that DSM comment was directed right at me.

I personally use Mobil 1 5W-30, since I believe that manufacturers only recommend 5W-20 to improve EPA MPG estimates, and not to improve engine longevity.

Mobil 1 0W-30 Advanced Fuel Economy (AFE) is also a very good oil, and probably gets the same MPG as 5W-30.

Engine wear has everything to do with viscosity and oil temperature. If all you are doing is starting the car and dropping off the kids at school, then you will need the thinnest viscosity the manufacture recommends.

I have oil temperature data from other vehicles I've owned. On a 10 mile drive to work in my DSM, the oil temps did not get to operating temp (180F) until just as I was pulling in to my parking spot. It's amazing how long it takes oil to heat up.

Now cars that have undercarriage splash guard shields, like our Genesis, oil temperature increases much quicker, since there is very little airflow hitting the oil pan. Bottom line, use thinnest oil the manufacture recommends if your daily commute is short. Longer commutes can go thicker viscosity that the manufacture recommends.

 

[Mark_888]

Engine wear has everything to do with viscosity and oil temperature. If all you are doing is starting the car and dropping off the kids at school, then you will need the thinnest viscosity the manufacture recommends.

The viscosity at start up is close to being the same for a 5W-20 and a 5W-30 oil (the first number being the cold temp viscosity of the oil). The second number is the hot temperature viscosity, and I personally believe (having tried both) that my engine runs smoother and is quieter with 5W-30 (although I have 3.8 V6).

Also, a 5W-30 synthetic will typically flow better at cold start than a 5W-20 conventional oil.

If there is a concern about low temperature viscosity, Mobil 1 makes an excellent 0W-30 (which is NOT an European formula oil, and is therefore suitable for the Genesis). So one would have better start up protection, and superior high temperature protection. A high quality synthetic is required to have such a wide range between cold viscosity and hot viscosity.

According to an article I read, NASCAR engines typically run 0W-5 viscosity, because they want the best possible fuel mileage, and they don't care about engine or oil longevity, as the engine and/or the oil only has to last a little more than 500 miles. Google "0W-5" for more information.

 

[LandoAWD]

Oh, and I think that DSM comment was directed right at me.

Indeed. Welcome to the slanty H gang.