2010 Hyundai Genesis Coupe 3.8L GT no start

[B_Kappler2]

My car won’t start, when I go to turn on the car (push button start) the engine light starts to blink and he immobilizer light appears, the relays under the hood also start ticking at the same rate the engine light flashes. I’ve tried a new car battery, fob battery, new terminals for the battery, checked to make sure all connections were tight and checked the fuses and it still won’t seem to start. Does anyone know what could be wrong ? I’m starting to think antenna module or either the brake or clutch switch.

 

[Easy]

1. No where in your post do you mention checking battery voltage.

2. When you push that button, it sounds distinctly like a low battery and a starter getting low juice.

Check your voltages and report back.

E

 

[B_Kappler2]

1. No where in your post do you mention checking battery voltage.

2. When you push that button, it sounds distinctly like a low battery and a starter getting low juice.

Check your voltages and report back.

E

The battery in the car is good

 

[emebarak]

Any news yet? Experienced same!

 

[Easy]

emebarak, why not start another thread stating your problem and giving, as I suggested to the OP here, the voltages and where measured.

Stating for instance, the *Battery in the car is good* tells us nothing really.

 

[mylesgen]

I’m having the exact same problem with my 2010 3.8 it starts ticking by th ecu main relay\fuse by the fuse box closest to the battery. And engine light ticks. When I start my car it sounds like a bad starter with a damaged flywheel

 

[Osmocene]

I had the same problem with my 2010 380 GT a year ago. After a few attempts to start it with a jumper box, even the dash displays died. The tow-truck operator initially insisted I had a bad battery, but the battery was only a year old and in good condition, so I wasn’t convinced! The culprit was the grounding strap, which is not the usual flexible cable, but a set of rigid, connected segments. Mine had corroded at an attachment point under the transmission. $120 to diagnose, $35 to replace. Presumably a more frequent problem here in the northeastern U.S., where they salt the roads in winter.

 

[mylesgen]

I had the same problem with my 2010 380 GT a year ago. After a few attempts to start it with a jumper box, even the dash displays died. The tow-truck operator initially insisted I had a bad battery, but the battery was only a year old and in good condition, so I wasn’t convinced! The culprit was the grounding strap, which is not the usual flexible cable, but a set of rigid, connected segments. Mine had corroded at an attachment point under the transmission. $120 to diagnose, $35 to replace. Presumably a more frequent problem here in the northeastern U.S., where they salt the roads in winter.

Hey thanks for the reply!!! I live in the Caribbean so salt is in the air. The first problem I had before this all went downhill was because of a bad ground the black wire that connects to the ground on the battery. It was very loose. So loose you could slide it off the ground with your hands. Maybe that short Circuit My car. I ordered a brand new pdm and ecu and will program them tomorrow and will give that a try. Thanks for your reply !!! Will add to list of things to check.

 

[rlgoad65]

I’m having the exact same problem with my 2010 3.8 it starts ticking by th ecu main relay\fuse by the fuse box closest to the battery. And engine light ticks. When I start my car it sounds like a bad starter with a damaged flywheelView attachment 21808View attachment 21809

Did you ever get this problem fixed ? I replaced head gaskets after repair when attempting to crank i get exactly what you describe . i did not remove any ground wires . i have full battery charge 12.19 . after checking the ground signal wire to main relay ecu relay brown in color it provides grounding to energize relay coil ,ohms out good all grounds at computer check good yet when car turned on the relay signal wire jumps up and down in grounded voltage . this pattern is coming from computer itself . Any ideas ?

 

[millemk]

Did you ever get this problem fixed ? I replaced head gaskets after repair when attempting to crank i get exactly what you describe . i did not remove any ground wires . i have full battery charge 12.19 . after checking the ground signal wire to main relay ecu relay brown in color it provides grounding to energize relay coil ,ohms out good all grounds at computer check good yet when car turned on the relay signal wire jumps up and down in grounded voltage . this pattern is coming from computer itself . Any ideas ?

A full battery charge will read somewhere near 12.7 bolts, so 12.2 volts may indicate a 50 percent charge. Recommend adding battery charger to see if you can achieve full charge.

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[rlgoad65]

A full battery charge will read somewhere near 12.7 bolts, so 12.2 volts may indicate a 50 percent charge. Recommend adding battery charger to see if you can achieve full charge.

installed new battery . added grounds and checked all grounds . jumped starter circuit at relay and starter sytem works fine unless you use key then it sounds bad . seems as tho theres a voltage to ecu relay and starter relay signal line that bounces and causes relay to not stay engaged.

 

[Rome22]

everythings is comeing on but the car will not starter at all

 

[Rome22]

I have a 2010 Honda Genesis coupe I'm trying to figure out why it won't start all the lights come on and everything but it will not crank or turn over

 

[Rome22]

installed new battery . added grounds and checked all grounds . jumped starter circuit at relay and starter sytem works fine unless you use key then it sounds bad . seems as tho theres a voltage to ecu relay and starter relay signal line that bounces and causes relay to not stay engaged.

Where would I find the ECU relay at

 

[dbag1]

Hi. I have a 2010 genesis coupe. Car was fine. This morning I started experiencing no start issue. It says key out . I tried replacing the keyfob battery but I nothing happens.

Do you think it's the Immobilizer that is broken?
Has anyone found a solution to this? Please help.

 

[Madmikescustom1]

Hello my name is Michael I am the owner of madmikescustoms here in Aurora, IL 60505 area code 630 my YouTube channel is a madmikescustomDaily
I am currently working to solve this issue. My vehicle ECU is not receiving signal from the key, but the key itself is functioning with the vehicle the vehicle on locks locks whether the ECU is installed or uninstalled meaning the key, and the signal to the vehicle was completely fine. Took it to Hyundai Genesis Naperville‘s told that the actual ECU is not receiving the key signal

The dealership is working with me and allowing me to do most of the work on my own. They’re just using their computers.

 

[dbag1]

Hello my name is Michael I am the owner of madmikescustoms here in Aurora, IL 60505 area code 630 my YouTube channel is a madmikescustomDaily
I am currently working to solve this issue. My vehicle ECU is not receiving signal from the key, but the key itself is functioning with the vehicle the vehicle on locks locks whether the ECU is installed or uninstalled meaning the key, and the signal to the vehicle was completely fine. Took it to Hyundai Genesis Naperville‘s told that the actual ECU is not receiving the key signal

The dealership is working with me and allowing me to do most of the work on my own. They’re just using their computers.

Hey buddy. I fixed mine.
I replaced the starter and cleared the error codes.
The starter relay and coil were causing the short cut. It was just normal for the ecu to cut off the current coming from there.

 

[vicarus]

The main ECU relay is the culprit in many cases. Passenger side junction box, the black one. They run hot. Mine had an intermittent open coil circuit. The relay powers 2 electrical circuits so any 5-pin relay that fits is not the solution. Took it apart and the coil is discolored. I ordered a used junction box from eBay. You're getting extra relays and fuses to have anyway.