2015 Genesis LED strip as bright DRL instead of amber

[kocyk123]

Not sure if I understand

 

[dfyffe]

Thanks to this thread from Kocyk123, I was able to complete my DRL/Turn mod using switchback led and V6Triton HDRL controller, If you would like more info DM me, If I get enough interest, I might do a write up on the installation details, The parts cost approx $75, I kept the stock setup amber turn signal but with white drl on my 2015 Ultimate 3.8, This needed a few extra parts because the Ultimate model have a DRL pulse 12v that cause your led bulb to flicker. Check out the video.

 

[Homarkvii]

Google Docs link:
2015 Hyundai Genesis LED DRL mod

This mod will turn on your DRL LED (bright) with the ignition. There are two options to install it:

1. Stock setup - when on AUTO, bright LED is on. When blinker kicks in, bright LED switches of until blinker stops (a lot of new card do it)
2. My personal preference - when on AUTO, bright LED stays on even when the blinker kicks in.

I went with option 2 since that is my preference. This tutorial has been made with great help of @parisgrey. You are doing it at your own risk and I don’t take responsibility if you damage your vehicle. I am not electronically inclined so if you have a better solution for wiring etc. feel free to correct me! Below is a diagram of how I have wired my LEDs (this is a diagram for one light so you have to do the same for the other):

STEP 1 - Fuse Box inside the car

Remove the lower cover under the steering wheel so you have better access to the fuse panel and other wires. You will add 4 wires here. I have used ethernet cable since it has four wires inside and that way, it was easier to fish them through the firewall inside the engine compartment.

Add two new wires, one to #1 (red/black - right rear blinker) and one to #2 (red - left rear blinker) - I have used quick tap to connect size 18 - 22

Add the other two wires to a fuse tap connector (it is micro2 fuse tap)

I plugged them into the MODULE and PRESAFETY SEAT BELT because these two turn on with the ignition and this is when your DRL will turn on too. Please insert the fuse tap the same direction I did. There is a - and + so if you plug them in the other way and there is a problem with circuit, the fuse will not blow, instead it will keep the power going which will might end up really bad.

Below is an instruction on how to insert 2 fuses into fuse tap:

1 - 10amp fuse will go here
2 - original fuse from the fuse box
(Red circles are the positive + connectors)

STEP 2 - Fish 4 newly added wires through the firewall to the engine compartment (you will find it to the left of the brake pedal):

(borrowed this picture from another Genesis forum member)

STEP 3 - Adding extra wire inside the headlight

Since I have skinny hands I was able to do this step without removing bumper and headlight. If you have a skinny hands, you are lucky because you just saved yourself plenty of time!

Headlight - remove the covering caps on the back and bottom of the headlight. Get your 22awg cable ready. I have used cable from the desktop computer:

I removed them from the plastic plug. These metal ends fit perfectly in the headlight.

Unplug the black connector with two wires. As you can see, there is a spot for a third one which you will add now.

Unlock the black connector:

Add the new wire to it and lock it back.

Here is how it should look now:

Red is the new wire that I added. You can plug the connector back into the headlight.

Now you need to drill a tiny hole in the headlight so you can run your newly added wire to the outside of the headlight. Run your cable and use silicone to seal the hole.

STEP 4 - adding 5 pin relays (they must be minimum 20amp)

There will be 2 relays per headlight so you need a total of 4.

1st relay will be responsible for adding the 12v power from the inside of the car (fuse tap) to the new cable that we have added inside the headlight that turns on LED in the bright DRL mode. We are going to connect the parking light wire to this relay which triggered by parking light, will cut the 12v power from the bright LED DRL and put them into regular dim mode for when parking lights or headlights are on.

2nd relay will be responsible for the blinker. We are going to add 12v from the fuse box inside the engine bay (we will also use a fuse tap here) and the new wire from the rear blinker that we ran from the inside of the car. This will connect to the front blinker. The original blinker/DRL wire that comes from the car will be connected with the resistor that will prevent the blinker hyper flash.

Connecting first relay:

85 - Ground

86 - find PIN 11 on the headlight connector and cut it (before you do it, remove the black tape that is wrapped around these wires so you have easier access)

Below pin diagram is for the Right Headlamp. The wires on the left one will be different colors so make sure you are cutting the right wires.

Strip both ends of the wires so you can connect them. The wire that comes from the car needs to be connected to pin 86 on the relay

87 - connect this pin with the wire that goes to the connector that plugs into the headlight (pin 11)

87a - connect this pin with the new DRL LED wire that we added inside the headlight

30 - connect this pin with 12v wire that comes from the inside of the car (fuse tap)

Second relay:

85 - ground

86 - connect this pin to the rear blinker wire that we ran from the inside of the car

87 - connect this pin to the 12v wire that goes in the fuse box inside engine compartment (use a fuse tap):

30 - What you have to do first, is to find pin 10 wire that goes to the headlight connector, cut it and strip both ends. connect relay pin 30 with the blinker wire (pin 10) that goes to the headlight connector.

Now repeat the same process for another 2 relays for the second headlight.

STEP 5 - adding 50W 6ohm resistors to stop blinker hyper flash

Find the wire that we cut from pin 10 going from the connector. You are going to connect this wire with one end of the resistor. The other end of resistor goes to ground. Do this on both headlights. Remember to install the resistors on metal surface as they get very hot when they operate:

Voila. That is all. Make sure everything works well. Clean up the wires in the engine compartment so they look clean and relatively professional ;-)

I know its old but I hope u can answer this question. In regards to tapping of PINS 1 and 2 (IP-A floor module connector IGPM Module- left , right rear blinkers) is there any current limatations in adding front 1157 Switchbacks? I plan on connecting the Amber portion of switchback to this and Ignition voltage to the switchback white leds with a relay. Just concerned of possibly blowing this circuit out and purchasing a very expensive IGPM module.

 

[2015g5.0]

I know its old but I hope u can answer this question. In regards to tapping of PINS 1 and 2 (IP-A floor module connector IGPM Module- left , right rear blinkers) is there any current limatations in adding front 1157 Switchbacks? I plan on connecting the Amber portion of switchback to this and Ignition voltage to the switchback white leds with a relay. Just concerned of possibly blowing this circuit out and purchasing a very expensive IGPM module.

Two questions 1. How long did this take and 2. Does this defeat the front L/R side marker lights? Thanks.

 

[dfyffe]

I know its old but I hope u can answer this question. In regards to tapping of PINS 1 and 2 (IP-A floor module connector IGPM Module- left , right rear blinkers) is there any current limatations in adding front 1157 Switchbacks? I plan on connecting the Amber portion of switchback to this and Ignition voltage to the switchback white leds with a relay. Just concerned of possibly blowing this circuit out and purchasing a very expensive IGPM module.

My mod is very simple, I only ran 1 wire to the engine bay fuse box ( might be even a closer 12v constant power source) for the constant 12v source. My mod took approx. 45 min per side, include assembling parts. Note : no feature is lost, everything operate as stock except you just get yellow turn signal and white drl LED, no more burned out turn signal bulb (thank you Hyundai for a stupid design). If you use type 1 1157 switchback bulb instead of type 2, you will get a flashing yellow and white turn signal. Below is my parts list.
2x- V6 12 INCH EXTENSION 3 PIN WC STYLE CONNECTOR ($5)
SKU: V6_EX_12
2x- V6 TURN SIGNAL DRL CONTROLLER ($15)
SKU: V6_HDRL_CNTRL
the above purchased from www.vleds.com
They have a full kit for the Genesis but it cost $250

The rest of the parts was purchased from Ebay

2x-1157-Socket-Adapter-Harness-Wiring-For-Turn-Signal-Light-Bulb.
2x- DC 12V NE555 Time Delay Relay Shield Timer Control Switch Adjustable Module. (needed because of a pulsing 12v for drl, vleds tech support told me cars with smart cruise have this).
2x- 1157 Plug for Tail Brake Lamp Park Light Turn Signal Socket
2x- 1157 LED Decoder Light Warning Inline Load Resistor Socket. (prevents hyperflash)

2x Type 2 White/Amber 1157 LED DRL Switchback Turn Signal Parking Light Bulbs​

1x Micro2 Fuse Tap Add-A-Circuit

 

[Homarkvii]

How do u wire in the timer circuit I have all other parts and almost bought the VLED Relay Controller but wiring it is not particle in my situation. Thanks

 

[dfyffe]

How do u wire in the timer circuit I have all other parts and almost bought the VLED Relay Controller but wiring it is not particle in my situation. Thanks

Sorry for the late response, I was travelling.
The Led Resistor decoder is plugged into the orginal turn signal/drl bulb socket, then plug the 1157 plug adapter into the female of the Led Resistor decoder. The 12v from the 1157 plug adapter is connected to the input side of the 12v delay relay board (make sure you use the correct 12V postive wire from the 1157 plug adapter). The constant 12v is connected to common terminal on the output of the 12v delay relay board (taken via the micro 2 fuse tap from the fuse box, you will need to drill a tiny hole in the light enclosure for the wire that will be supplying the contant 12v). Cut the V6 12 INCH EXTENSION 3 PIN WC STYLE CONNECTOR in 2, one half is screwed on to the input and the other to the output of the v6 drl contoller. The N.O. terminal on the output side of the delay relay board is connected to the V6 drl controller input positve wire (red from the V6 12 INCH EXTENSION 3 PIN WC STYLE CONNECTOR , the yellow wire will not be used). The 1157 socket adapter harness is wired to the output of v6 drl controller, all 3 wires. Finally connect the ground wires together (1157 plug harness, v6 drl controller input, delay relay board input, 1157 plug harness). Adjust the delay relay to the fastest delay time by turning the adjustment screw anti clockwise. Once this is correct, when you turn on your drl, your delay relay board green led should be on steady. That should cover everything. Good luck.

 

[Brodrdude]

Sorry for the late response, I was travelling.
The Led Resistor decoder is plugged into the orginal turn signal/drl bulb socket, then plug the 1157 plug adapter into the female of the Led Resistor decoder. The 12v from the 1157 plug adapter is connected to the input side of the 12v delay relay board (make sure you use the correct 12V postive wire from the 1157 plug adapter). The constant 12v is connected to common terminal on the output of the 12v delay relay board (taken via the micro 2 fuse tap from the fuse box, you will need to drill a tiny hole in the light enclosure for the wire that will be supplying the contant 12v). Cut the V6 12 INCH EXTENSION 3 PIN WC STYLE CONNECTOR in 2, one half is screwed on to the input and the other to the output of the v6 drl contoller. The N.O. terminal on the output side of the delay relay board is connected to the V6 drl controller input positve wire (red from the V6 12 INCH EXTENSION 3 PIN WC STYLE CONNECTOR , the yellow wire will not be used). The 1157 socket adapter harness is wired to the output of v6 drl controller, all 3 wires. Finally connect the ground wires together (1157 plug harness, v6 drl controller input, delay relay board input, 1157 plug harness). Adjust the delay relay to the fastest delay time by turning the adjustment screw anti clockwise. Once this is correct, when you turn on your drl, your delay relay board green led should be on steady. That should cover everything. Good luck.

Can you do a step on how the wiring is done in a video?

 

[dfyffe]

Can you do a step on how the wiring is done in a video?

This weekend I will try to make a install video.

 

[Brodrdude]

This weekend I will try to make a install video.

That would be awesome, thank you.
I ordered all the parts for it. Hopefully they dont take long

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[dfyffe]

That would be awesome, thank you.
I ordered all the parts for it. Hopefully they dont take long

Im a little busy this weekend, I might do some picture

 

[BlitheFool]

30 - What you have to do first, is to find pin 10 wire that goes to the headlight connector, cut it and strip both ends. connect relay pin 30 with the blinker wire (pin 10) that goes to the headlight connector.

Hi, I doubt you'll see this...but I'm hoping you will. I'm wiring up the relays for this mod just as you've described right now. Everything is well written and straightforward. I'm very thankful for the time you took to write this up and for the pictures as well. However, the part of your post I quoted confused me. So I'm going to find pin 10 and strip both ends. I understand this is the wire going to the blinkers. I will wire the stripped end of pin 10 going into the headlight into relay pin 30 on the second relay. But what do I do with the other end of pin 10? The end that's coming from the car. You said to strip both ends - where do I connect the pin 10 wire coming from the vehicle?

 

[kocyk123]

Hi there!

Sorry, I didn’t make it clear in the instruction. It was couple lines below. You have to grab the end that comes from the car and hook it up with the relay so you will not get the error message about missing blinker. Let me know if you have any other questions.

 

[BlitheFool]

So both sides of the pin 10 from the connector side going into the headlight, and the wire that was cut coming from the car that connected to pin 10 will be wired to relay pin 30 then, correct? So I could just use a quick connect to splice into the pin 10 wire and connect it to relay pin 30? I think you wrote it clearly but I'm a novice with wiring lol...

 

[kocyk123]

No, the end coming from the headlight connects to pin 30 on the relay. The other end of wire 10 that goes to the car must be connected to the resistor. I just noticed that I said relay on my previous message but I meant to say resistor. My bad!

 

[BlitheFool]

No, the end coming from the headlight connects to pin 30 on the relay. The other end of wire 10 that goes to the car must be connected to the resistor. I just noticed that I said relay on my previous message but I meant to say resistor. My bad!

Thank you! Was hoping to get it done today but kids wanted to hang out…. Maybe my next couple days off. I at least have the relays wired up…

 

[kocyk123]

Good luck! Let me know if you run into any issues. Also, post your result pics when you're done

 

[ItsSonnyInIT]

Any reduction in LED life? Yellowing? Putting additional power through those LEDs could permanently damage them if they aren't rated for it.

I'd love to do this but I don't want to buy entirely new headlights in a year.

 

[kocyk123]

I sold my car a long time ago but I would not be concerned for it because they were designed to be a DRL (just not for US at that year as per some regulations but CA had them since 2015 from what I know).

There is a blank pin in the headlight that was used for the full brightness mode in the other countries and later US models so we are not doing anything extra here that the car manufacturer wouldn't do.

 

[glennk]

I have the Triton. I can posts some pictures tomorrow? I had the DRL/turn signal replaced. I chose amber for the color.