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3.8 oil change questions

Airwrench

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Anybody changed the oil in their 3.8 yet? I know the oil filter is a cartridge type located on the top, back of the engine. I looked under the car real quickly and saw a huge, dreaded undercover. Anybody taken if off yet? I'm waiting for the local dealer to get in the filters before I try an oil change.
 
Welcome aboard, Airwrench. Thank you for signing up! I know a few people have had oil changes, so someone will have an answer for you shortly...
 
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Well - I went out and checked the car - looks like there is a hole in the underbody shield for the oil drain plug - :D So this makes it easy - good job Hyundai!
 
Engine Oil And Filter Replacement

caution_icon.gif
• Prolonged and repeated contact with mineral oil will result in the removal of natural fats from the skin, leading to dryness, irritation and dermatitis. In addition, used engine oil contains potentially harmful contaminants which may cause skin cancer.
• Exercise caution in order to minimize the length and frequency of contact of your skin to used oil. Wear protective clothing and gloves. Wash your skin thoroughly with soap and water, or use water-less hand cleaner, to remove any used engine oil. Do not use gasoline, thinners, or solvents.
• In order to preserve the environment, used oil and used oil filter must be disposed of only at designated disposal sites.

1.Park the car on level ground.
Start the engine and let it warm up.

2.Drain engine oil.
(1)Remove the oil filler cap.
(2)After lifting the car, remove the oil drain plug and drain oil into a container.

3.Replace the oil filter.
(1)Remove the oil filter cap from the oil filter body.
(2)Remove the oil filter element.
(3)Check and clean the oil filter installation surface.
(4)Check the part number of a new oil filter is same as old one.
(5)Install a new oil filter element and new O-rings.
(6)Apply clean engine oil to the new O-ring.
Lightly screw the oil filter cap into place, and tighten it until the O-ring contacts the seat.
(7)Finally tighten it again by specified tightening torque.

Tightening torque :
25N.m (2.54kgf.m, 18.4lb-ft)

4.Fill new engine oil.
(1)Install the oil drain plug with a new gasket.

Tightening torque :
34.3 ~ 44.1N.m (3.5 ~ 4.5kgf.m, 25.3 ~ 32.5lb-ft)
(2)Fill with new engine oil, after removing the engine oil level gauge.
Engine Oil quantity
Total : 7.5 L (7.92 US qt, 6.59 lmp qt)
Oil pan : 6.0 L (6.34 US qt, 5.27 lmp qt)
Drain and refill including oil filter :
6.5 L (6.86 US qt, 5.71 lmp qt)
A.Fill a half oil of the total amount first and do the rest again after about one minute later.
B.Do not fill oil over the 'F' line, checking the level with the oil level gauge.
(3)Install the oil filler cap and oil level gauge.

5.Start the engine and check to be sure no oil is leaking from the drain plug or oil filter.

6.Recheck the engine oil level.
 
Just got my oil changed, service advisor says to change oil every 4K miles? I thought it said somewhere to change at 7500 miles?
What is correct?
 
Just got my oil changed, service advisor says to change oil every 4K miles? I thought it said somewhere to change at 7500 miles?
What is correct?

Follow the manual. Engines and engine oils/filters have improved so much that the rule of thumb of "change every 3000miles" is history. It's a waste of money and oil. Also, I highly recommend changing over to synthetic (like mobil 1 or amsoil) once the engine is broken in. It will protect your engine better and increase the oil change intervals compare to old dino oils.
 
Every Quickie all change place or dealer recommends you increase the frequency because it doubles their revenue; they argue that it helps prolong the life of your engine because oil change intervals can vary depending on how you drive.
 
Follow the manual. Engines and engine oils/filters have improved so much that the rule of thumb of "change every 3000miles" is history. It's a waste of money and oil. Also, I highly recommend changing over to synthetic (like mobil 1 or amsoil) once the engine is broken in. It will protect your engine better and increase the oil change intervals compare to old dino oils.

It sounds like your service advisor is giving you good advice. I firmly believe that just b/c the manual says you can go so far doesn't mean you should. See my post in This thread for an explanation.
 
Engine Oil And Filter Replacement

caution_icon.gif
• Prolonged and repeated contact with mineral oil will result in the removal of natural fats from the skin, leading to dryness, irritation and dermatitis. In addition, used engine oil contains potentially harmful contaminants which may cause skin cancer.
• Exercise caution in order to minimize the length and frequency of contact of your skin to used oil. Wear protective clothing and gloves. Wash your skin thoroughly with soap and water, or use water-less hand cleaner, to remove any used engine oil. Do not use gasoline, thinners, or solvents.
• In order to preserve the environment, used oil and used oil filter must be disposed of only at designated disposal sites.

1.Park the car on level ground.
Start the engine and let it warm up.

2.Drain engine oil.
(1)Remove the oil filler cap.
(2)After lifting the car, remove the oil drain plug and drain oil into a container.

Don't forget to turn the car off before draining oil! :)

Every Quickie all change place or dealer recommends you increase the frequency because it doubles their revenue; they argue that it helps prolong the life of your engine because oil change intervals can vary depending on how you drive.

Oil change intervals DO vary depending on how you drive! The manufacturer says so. Doing the math on the doubled revenue, if we make $6 every 6 months off your oil changes (one change every 6 mos or 7500miles), that's $12 of gross profit we made servicing your vehicle in a year. Double that and we earn $24 in a year. Back up the money truck, baby! We've been over this issue before in the same thread referenced above:
Originally Posted by sandy
Oil changes for my recent Jaguar xjs were every 10k miles. Same for my current Saab 9-5. I would go with the maker's suggested interval...after all, Hyundai's Warranty is for 10 years/100,000 miles so I doubt they would suggest an oil change interval that would put them at risk

Originally posted by EdVoylesHyundai
Saab is eating crow right now for telling their customers 10k on oil changes. They have extended their engine warranties on the 9-5's due to engine sludge issues (which are caused by drain intervals that are too long). When I dropped the pan on my '99 9-5 with 120k, it was NASTY. The pickup screen was almost completely clogged (which is probably why the turbo ate itself up and I was able to pick it up for cheap).

To clarify on the Genesis drain intervals, my interpretation of Hyundai's requirements are 7500miles or 12 months under "normal" conditions and 3000 miles or 3 months for "severe" usage. "Severe" is defined as sitting in traffic, stop and go driving, allowing the car to idle for extended periods, etc... Unless you commute against traffic, on the highway, under 100mph, you are probably in the category of "severe" usage.

Just remember, you can't change your oil too frequently. And don't worry about the dealer getting rich off your oil changes. Depending on the vehicle, gross profit (not net) on a full-price oil change (not one of the $19.99 specials) could run from $2-$8. We lose money on the specials.
 
I have run synthetic on my last 7 cars. One thing to remember is to use regular oil until the engine has been broken in properly. You want the rings to set correctly among other things first. Then changing over to something like Mobil 1 is ideal at least in my book. Just my 2 cents worth.
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just finished changing the oil - some notes:

Oil drain plug is 17mm - the crush washer can be stuck on to the bolt - might have to persuade it to come off. You can easily reach the drain plug without jacking the car up - but getting a oil catch pan under there at the same time can be tough. I recommend jacking the car up or driving up on ramps.

Oil filter housing is at top of engine right in front of the firewall. There is actually a embossed "oil filter" on the engine beauty cover at that location. It is a 27mm plastic fitting. You can remove it and the oil filter without taking off the beauty cover. Remember, there are 2 rubber gaskets on the filter housing that need to be replaced. When you break the seal on the housing to remove it from the engine there was no oil leakage - all of the residual oil sits in the engine casting - so no need for rags when you do this :p

The engine drained out 4.5 quarts of oil - and it took 5.5 quarts to fill.

The Hyundai oil filter comes with both rubber gaskets and a new crush washer - no need to purchase them separately.

The original filter that came off the engine said "Mann" on it - and was a totally paper element - with cardboard endcaps. The Hyundai replacement filter had plastic endcaps and said "Hyundai" on it. Seemed like a better element - same size and fit.

After 3500 miles (break in and a big highway miles vacation), the old oil looked pretty good - more like maple syrup than black oil. I did note a small amount of metal on the drain plug - pretty normal for break in.

Overall - it took me 1/2 hour including cleanup.
 
I have run synthetic on my last 7 cars. One thing to remember is to use regular oil until the engine has been broken in properly. You want the rings to set correctly among other things first. Then changing over to something like Mobil 1 is ideal at least in my book. Just my 2 cents worth.


At what mileage interval would you recommend the change (that is, switching from organic to synthetic)?
 
Is the oil filter different than what you can get at a local auto parts store? It sounds like it is Hyundai specific.
 
I thought I read or heard somewhere that that the Genesis will tell you when it is time to change the oil similar to BMWs 'green, yellow, red' bars, or Lexus' "Service Engine Oil" indicator. Is this true or have I been reading about too many other cars?
 
Is the oil filter different than what you can get at a local auto parts store? It sounds like it is Hyundai specific.
Purolator makes one for the Genesis and some other Hyundai/Kia vehicles:

Purolator Part #L25848

HYUNDAI Genesis - V6 3.8L F.I. (VIN E) (24V) 2009
HYUNDAI Genesis - V8 4.6L F.I. (VIN F) (32V) 2009
HYUNDAI Veracruz - V6 3.8L F.I. (VIN C) 24V 2008-2009
KIA Borrego - V6 3.8L F.I. (VIN 1) 24V 2009
KIA Borrego - V8 4.6L F.I. (VIN 2) 32V 2009
KIA Sorento - V6 3.3L F.I. (VIN 5) 24V 2008-2009
KIA Sorento - V6 3.8L F.I. (VIN 6) 24V 2008-2009

I have not been able to find anyone who caries the Purolator #L25848. It may be that the Hyundai filter is made by Purolator (or that they both source them from the same place).
 
I thought I read or heard somewhere that that the Genesis will tell you when it is time to change the oil similar to BMWs 'green, yellow, red' bars, or Lexus' "Service Engine Oil" indicator. Is this true or have I been reading about too many other cars?
I think someone was speculating about that in this forum, but unless it is in the Tech package I don't know. I don't recall seeing it in the Owners Manual.
 
I checked the manual to see what oil my 4.6 uses.........Nothing.

Does it run Synthetic factory? I hope a car like this would, since everything else in the class does.....
 
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