3.8 oil change questions

[Mark_888]

Since Hyundai doesn't specify synthetic in the Owners Manual, I doubt it comes with synthetic as factory fill. It is usually better to run conventional oil for a few thousand miles to let the piston rings seat properly before switching to synthetic. I had excellent results with this technique on my last car.

I have heard (but don't know for sure) that some auto-makers that use synthetic as factory fill do a limited break-in of the engine before installation.

 

[Pat1USMC]

Be careful if you get filters from the Hyundai dealership. I drained my oil, added Pennzoil full synthetic, threw away the old filter only to find out that they gave me the wrong filter. I drive all the way back to the dealership and they look at me like I'm insane when I say I'm not leaving the parking lot until the filter is in so please give me a 27mm socket.

 

[Richard Ft. Lauderdale]

I checked the manual to see what oil my 4.6 uses.........Nothing.

Does it run Synthetic factory? I hope a car like this would, since everything else in the class does.....

My 3.8 says on the oil fill cap what oil to use. I assume the 4.6 does also.

I went to a local oil change/car wash the other day to get a quick oil change. They took one look at the car and said they had never seen a Genesis before and didn't have the filter. Said that now that they had actually seen one he'd order the filters.

 

[Mark_888]

I checked the manual to see what oil my 4.6 uses.........Nothing.

Does it run Synthetic factory? I hope a car like this would, since everything else in the class does.....

On page 8-4 of the Owners Manual it discusses the type of oil required.

API Service SJ, SL or above, ILSAC GF-3 or above. You can find these on the back of any oil bottle. Most of the better conventional oils will meet these specifications.

The recommended viscosity is discussed on page 8-5.

 

[Mark_888]

I went to a local oil change/car wash the other day to get a quick oil change. They took one look at the car and said they had never seen a Genesis before and didn't have the filter. Said that now that they had actually seen one he'd order the filters.

Probably a good idea to carry a spare or two in your trunk. I don't trust the filters they use at oil change places and always supply my own filter to them anyway (even when I drove cars that used common filter types). Most of them will give $1 off if you supply your own filter (which tells you how much their filters are worth).

 

[C6Shortimer]

My last three Corvettes left the factory with Mobil One. My daily driver, '02 Infiniti I35, went 3,600 miles on the factory oil before I switched it to Mobil One. If I end up with a Genesis I'll switch it over to Mobil One after the break-in period is over. I figure 3,000-4,000 miles should do the trick.

 

[Mark_888]

My last three Corvettes left the factory with Mobil One. My daily driver, '02 Infiniti I35, went 3,600 miles on the factory oil before I switched it to Mobil One. If I end up with a Genesis I'll switch it over to Mobil One after the break-in period is over. I figure 3,000-4,000 miles should do the trick.

That is exactly what I plan to do when I hit 3000 miles on my Genesis. It worked great on my last car, so much so that it ran perfectly for 11 years.

 

[jake the snake]

Here is a look at the engine cover
It realy needs a Gene logo

CIAO

 

[Midnight]

Question.... it looks as if the upper control arm and shock assembly is connected directly to the "body" and not to any form of a subframe. i drive a Mercury Marauder now, and the suspension is completely attached to a subframe which houses the entire suspension. making it extremely solid.

whats the croud's feel on this?

 

[Mark_888]

Question.... it looks as if the upper control arm and shock assembly is connected directly to the "body" and not to any form of a subframe. i drive a Mercury Marauder now, and the suspension is completely attached to a subframe which houses the entire suspension. making it extremely solid.

whats the croud's feel on this?

What does this have to do with oil changes?

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[STREETS]

Why would waiting to use 100% Synthetic oils (Mobil 1) after break-in be necessary when there are several manufactures that have Mobil 1 in the crankcase at delivery?
GM- Corvette, CTS-V, XLR
Porshe- 911
examples

 

[TJPark01]

Why would waiting to use 100% Synthetic oils (Mobil 1) after break-in be necessary when there are several manufactures that have Mobil 1 in the crankcase at delivery?
GM- Corvette, CTS-V, XLR
Porshe- 911
examples

It doesn't matter anymore. You can use synthetic in this car at anytime. It's kind of a waste to dump the factory fill, but if it makes you feel better to do so, it's not going to hurt. Regardless, I wouldn't be cranking up the RPM's past 4000 for a couple hundred miles. I changed to Mobil 1 after 1200 miles. Probably had more benefit to my psycological well being than any benefit for the car.

 

[Mark_888]

Why would waiting to use 100% Synthetic oils (Mobil 1) after break-in be necessary when there are several manufactures that have Mobil 1 in the crankcase at delivery?
GM- Corvette, CTS-V, XLR
Porshe- 911
examples

That is an excellent and often discussed question. Clearly, there were problems in this regard at one time (most notably with Corvettes when they first switched to synthetic as factory fill), but it is not clear what they did to solve the problem. Maybe they now do a limited break-in at the engine factory. Some have theorized that modern engines need less break-in than before. No one that I know of seems to be sure.

The Genesis engines will (obviously) run OK without synthetic, so there is no danger doing the break-in first, and it is unknown if there is a danger of not doing any break-in at all on the Genesis engines before switching to synthetic. So faced with an known, and an unknown, I chose to wait about 2000 miles before switching to synthetic (originally planed to wait until 3000 miles, but switched to Mobil 1 at 2000 miles).

 

[Mark_888]

It doesn't matter anymore. You can use synthetic in this car at anytime. It's kind of a waste to dump the factory fill, but if it makes you feel better to do so, it's not going to hurt. Regardless, I wouldn't be cranking up the RPM's past 4000 for a couple hundred miles. I changed to Mobil 1 after 1200 miles. Probably had more benefit to my psycological well being than any benefit for the car.

1200 miles is a significant break-in these days. Not sure if I would switch with only 10 miles on OD.

 

[Sayantsi]

Engines are certainly built with but higher tolerances than in the past, and until we see some used oil analyses we won't know how the engine wears in and how easy or hard it is on oil whether dino or synth. I don't have any personal issue with someone switching to synthetic oil early - no one's ever been able to explain what is so special about dino oil that it must be used in a new engine.

 

[Mark_888]

... no one's ever been able to explain what is so special about dino oil that it must be used in a new engine.

In theory the piston rings seat faster and better with conventional oil since it has more friction than synthetics. However, there is not as much difference between conventional oil and synthetics as there used to be (many conventional oils, especially 5W-20 and 0W-20 have a small amounts of Group III synthetics in them and their additive packages have improved). At the same time, very few synthetics these days are 100% Group IV/V PAO/Ester stock anymore.

At one time some cars with factory fill synthetic or very early changes to synthetic did have a problem with piston rings seating properly. The problems varied from minor (less than optimal gas mileage) to major (serious engine problems in a few cases).

 

[TJPark01]

In theory the piston rings seat faster and better with conventional oil since it has more friction than synthetics. However, there is not as much difference between conventional oil and synthetics as there used to be (many conventional oils, especially 5W-20 and 0W-20 have a small amounts of Group III synthetics in them and their additive packages have improved). At the same time, very few synthetics these days are 100% Group IV/V PAO/Ester stock anymore.

I have to agree with this. The gap between conventional and "synthetic" has narrowed. The price however has widened. I'm not convinced it makes a tremendous amount of difference at the end of the day in a consumer application. OK, Nissan GTR, M3, Corvette, yeah, I'd probably be willing to throw down 8 bucks a quart on some Royal Purple. Normally aspirated Hyundai, not so much.

 

[Mark_888]

I have to agree with this. The gap between conventional and "synthetic" has narrowed. The price however has widened. I'm not convinced it makes a tremendous amount of difference at the end of the day in a consumer application. OK, Nissan GTR, M3, Corvette, yeah, I'd probably be willing to throw down 8 bucks a quart on some Royal Purple. Normally aspirated Hyundai, not so much.

The last two 5-quart jugs of Mobil 1 that I purchased from Wal-Mart cost me $26.00 each and I got a $10.00 mail-in rebate from Mobil 1 for each of them. In fact I just got the MIR checks yesterday (took a couple of months to get them).

 

[sandy]

I have to agree with this. The gap between conventional and "synthetic" has narrowed. The price however has widened. I'm not convinced it makes a tremendous amount of difference at the end of the day in a consumer application. OK, Nissan GTR, M3, Corvette, yeah, I'd probably be willing to throw down 8 bucks a quart on some Royal Purple. Normally aspirated Hyundai, not so much.

I'm no expert on oil, but since Hyundai is willing to warranty the motor for 100,000 miles using conventional, I'd agree with you there's probably no benefit to using synthetic. Unless it makes you feel better.

 

[LLT]

From my personal experience (bearing in mind, I'm very anal retentive and have had numerous oil analysis samples performed with various oils) - I agree for most following the normal maintenance schedule, GOOD conventional oil is sufficient. For me, synthetic oils reduce cold-start noise, reduce wear and help the motors run quieter and more efficiently. In my studies, synthetics provide better wear protection - granted, not enough that's going to add 50,000 miles to the life of the engine in most cases, but better nonetheless.

I run nothing but Amsoil in my gasoline engines and Shell Rotella in my diesels. Oddly enough, I very rarely keep a vehicle past 36,000 miles so it's of even less benefit to me, but it makes me feel better - so long as it's in my possession, I do the best that I can.