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Battery replacement

2015 5.0 Ultimate , just replaces original battery. Made in Nov of 2014 . Installed in car Feb 2015. Battery was still working. Dont like to take chances, so purchased at dealer for 250$ . I know I could have saved some money, but I was already at the dealer
That's the kind of stuff happens to me. I purchased an OEM Battery, 250$ from the dealer whom does all the work on the car. I realize I paid a little more than a parts store, but this particular dealer helps me out when I have any issue large or small. They do good work and dont try to take advantage me.
To me, the dealer is the best way to go. If the battery install becomes a problem, let it be theirs. My service guy at the dealership helps me out price wise if he can.
 
To me, the dealer is the best way to go. If the battery install becomes a problem, let it be theirs. My service guy at the dealership helps me out price wise if he can.
I agree 100% , I am Fortunate to have a good relationship with my Service Guy at the dealer. It makes life easier. 👍
 
The AutoZone battery is a "fits in the hole" battery, not a spec-for-spec replacement. While they'll work, if you have a current draw, it will last about half as long. If I remember correctly, the Duralast/Autozone spec battery was only 68 amp-hours compared to the OEM 105 amp-hours.

Duracell is the only comparable option to the OEM battery ($450) and it's still expensive at $290:
This AutoZone Duralast appears to be 100 amp-hours, closer to the OEM specs.

It's for the '19 G80 3.8, $199.95



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To me, the dealer is the best way to go. If the battery install becomes a problem, let it be theirs.
Words of the wise...
 
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There are several battery brands that have specifications that closely match or exceed OEM specifications. There are only four wet cell and 4 AGM battery manufactures in the USA. So, most, if not all batteries sold by Interstate, NAPA, Auto Zone, O'Reilly, Advance, etc are made by one of these three companies.

"Most aftermarket car batteries sold in the U.S. are made by three companies that build them for retailers: Johnson Controls, which supplies more than half of the market; Exide; and East Penn. They are sold under various names and built to the specifications of retailers, so performance can vary." Consumer Reports, May 2019

So, no matter what replacement battery you choose, it will most likely be made by one of these four companies. Not to say that all are equal, they are not. All have their "good, better, best" grades, which means, "cheap, reasonable and expensive".
 
There are several battery brands that have specifications that closely match or exceed OEM specifications. There are only four wet cell and 4 AGM battery manufactures in the USA. So, most, if not all batteries sold by Interstate, NAPA, Auto Zone, O'Reilly, Advance, etc are made by one of these three companies.

"Most aftermarket car batteries sold in the U.S. are made by three companies that build them for retailers: Johnson Controls, which supplies more than half of the market; Exide; and East Penn. They are sold under various names and built to the specifications of retailers, so performance can vary." Consumer Reports, May 2019

So, no matter what replacement battery you choose, it will most likely be made by one of these four companies. Not to say that all are equal, they are not. All have their "good, better, best" grades, which means, "cheap, reasonable and expensive".
Well Said..
 
Yep, for Genesis the important numbers are 105 Amp/Hour and 190RC. They make a particular discharge graph relating to power output over time. The charging system profile expects the battery to meet these two numbers when regulating alternator output during cruise. It will run off battery power to save fuel where possible before topping off the battery again.

If the battery falls short of the specifications, the charging system may set an internal battery health warning and disable efficient cruise.

if the battery exceeds to performance values by too much the charging system will also throw an internal fault because one or more performance metrics have to be lying to it, by fault logic. This also disables efficient cruise and may even set a battery/charge warning message.

On the other hand, CA/CCA is much less important. The car only needs 270A to start, usually less if the fuel rail pressurized immediately. You just get huge CA numbers as a byproduct of a high RC starting battery...also why the battery is huge.
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I'm finding that most replacement H9 AGM batteries have the following spec:
100 Amp/Hour and 190RC as opposed to OEM 105Amp/Hour and 190RC ?
Do you think that the extra 5 Amp/Hour would make a difference?
 
I'm finding that most replacement H9 AGM batteries have the following spec:
100 Amp/Hour and 190RC as opposed to OEM 105Amp/Hour and 190RC ?
Do you think that the extra 5 Amp/Hour would make a difference?
Good question. Would like to know the answer myself.
" If you’re new to 12V batteries in general, you may wonder what these numbers mean. “AH” stands for “amp hours”, and simply put, 100ah means that a battery can deliver 1 amp of current at the rated voltage (12V in this case) for 100 hours. Or, alternatively, 2 amps for 50 hours, or 4 amps for 25 hours or 100 amps for 1 hour and so on. " Found this on a web site discussing deep cell batteries. Using this as a guide, that means the extra 5 ah will provide an additional 1 amp for 5 hours.
Based on this and other thoughts, there must be a lot going on in a Genesis when it is not running, a constant, low power draw. I know that in my case, the battery is about 3 years old but has lost over 50% of its life. Since I purchased the car, I average around 500 miles a month. When it sits for a few days, it has lost the memory settings on the trip computer.
The loss of battery life is a lot when compared to my Jag's battery, which lasted nearly nearly 10 years. The difference between a 2003 and a 2017............ all the high tech electronics takes power to maintain, which puts a constant draw on the battery, shortening the battery life. I do know that the S class Mercedes and others use two batteries, a starting battery and a "house" battery. I think this trend may spread to others, particularly now that engines shut off when you come to a stop and restart when you step on the gas to take off from a light or stop sign. What cost technology?

Keeping a high quality, first class battery in our newer, tech laden autos is paramount to the overall health of our cars.
 
Thanks Steveyacht for your lesson. Other than the OEM, why are there no other replacement batteries that can meet the spec?
 
My best guess is that the OEM battery is made by a subsidy of Hyundai and the specs are unique to that battery/auto in order to corner the market for that battery. Couple that with the LONG 60 month, Bumper to bumper warranty...... if you install a non spec battery, have a failure that can be traced to that battery, it is a reason for denial of a warranty claim. Just a thought.
Follow the money.
 
Just checked a OEM online Hyundai parts dealer and they advertise a genuine Hyundai Interstate H9 battery that is supposed to meet the spec.
I double checked Interstate website and they don't meet the spec. Don't know who to believe.
 
Just checked a OEM online Hyundai parts dealer and they advertise a genuine Hyundai Interstate H9 battery that is supposed to meet the spec.
I double checked Interstate website and they don't meet the spec. Don't know who to believe.
Yea, I know. Personally, I'm not so sure that the 5 amp hour difference in spec will realistically make a difference.
 
Keeping a high quality, first class battery in our newer, tech laden autos is paramount to the overall health of our cars.
I don't profess to have any expertise in electronics. Observation on this forum proves that a truism though. I recall quite a few instances where problems were solved with a new battery. If your car is 4 or more years old, worth checking out.
 
I don't profess to have any expertise in electronics. Observation on this forum proves that a truism though. I recall quite a few instances where problems were solved with a new battery. If your car is 4 or more years old, worth checking out.

 
Thanks for the links to the batteries that have the identical specs as the OEM.
 
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