Best way to convert to led DRL's for a 2015 Genesis 3.8

[plaintiger]

Okay, so the switchback function doesn't work in my car – they're amber all the time. But that's OK by me. They are crazy bright, which I quite like, and no hyperflash! Kind of wish I'd known about these and tried them before I wired in those stupid resistors (one of which stopped doing its job it seems – maybe I didn't wire it well or something – which is what spurred me to buy these bulbs), but it's all good experience to add to the collective treasure trove of knowledge. Thanks, Rogo and everybody who inspired me to try these things. They're GRRRRRRRREAT!!

 

[Rogozhin75]

Update! I've only installed one so far, but it works! It works!!

*Exaggerated Billy Graham voice* HALLELUJAH!! PRAISE GENESIS!!

haha! Awesome, glad for you! You're welcome plaintiger

 

[plaintiger]

Thanks for the reply! Are these only amber? And I can simply take out the halogens and put the LEDs in without having to mod anything?

Anyone please correct me if I'm wrong (it happens a lot), but it occurred to me last night that the switchback function probably doesn't work in any car that came with incandescents stock because such cars wouldn't have the dual-function circuitry required for the switchback function because - AFAIK - a single incandescent bulb can't do the switchback thing.

And if I'm right about all that, the fact that they don't do the switchback thing in our cars would be because of the car, not because of any shortcoming of the bulbs. FWIW.

And another thought/theory/hypothesis about these Auxbeam bulbs is that the hyperflashing-after-being-on-for-a-long-time phenomenon seems to me that it would logically be a consequence of the bulbs overheating (as a result of their being on for a long time). And while I can't say this conclusively either, I would think these Auxbeam bulbs would be less susceptible to any effects of overheating because the manufacturer is kinda crazy for cooling: these bulbs have a built-in 12,000RPM silent fan, a copper cooling ring, 16 heat sinks, and a 6063 aviation-grade aluminum body, all to reduce the likelihood of overheating.

I haven't had mine installed for 24 hours yet so my testing can't be considered thorough, but I did just take an hour-long drive in summer heat (upper 70's and lower 80s Fahrenheit) with the DRLs on the whole way, stayed put for about an hour, and then took another hour-long drive back without any hyperflashing going on. And Rogo's had his installed for months now and hasn't reported any misbehavior by his bulbs either. From which - relying solely on logic again, and my logic may be faulty - I deduce that these bulbs are unlikely to go a-hyperflashing on us in the foreseeable. Again, take it FWIW...

 

[Genesiswonderer]

Anyone please correct me if I'm wrong (it happens a lot), but it occurred to me last night that the switchback function probably doesn't work in any car that came with incandescents stock because such cars wouldn't have the dual-function circuitry required for the switchback function because - AFAIK - a single incandescent bulb can't do the switchback thing.

And if I'm right about all that, the fact that they don't do the switchback thing in our cars would be because of the car, not because of any shortcoming of the bulbs. FWIW.

And another thought/theory/hypothesis about these Auxbeam bulbs is that the hyperflashing-after-being-on-for-a-long-time phenomenon seems to me that it would logically be a consequence of the bulbs overheating (as a result of their being on for a long time). And while I can't say this conclusively either, I would think these Auxbeam bulbs would be less susceptible to any effects of overheating because the manufacturer is kinda crazy for cooling: these bulbs have a built-in 12,000RPM silent fan, a copper cooling ring, 16 heat sinks, and a 6063 aviation-grade aluminum lamp body, all to reduce the likelihood of overheating.

I haven't had mine installed for 24 hours yet so my testing can't be considered thorough, but I did just take an hour-long drive in summer heat (upper 70's and lower 80s Fahrenheit) with the DRLs on the whole way, stayed put for about an hour, and then took another hour-long drive back without any hyperflashing going on. And Rogo's had his installed for months now and hasn't reported any misbehavior by his bulbs either. From which - relying solely on logic again, and my logic may be faulty - I deduce that these bulbs are unlikely to go a-hyperflashing on us in the foreseeable. Again, take it FWIW...

Thanks for the write up. Issue is I live in Texas and drive in the 100+ degree heat so I don’t know how it would fare there.

Also, will these bulbs fry through the sockets like the halogens will ? I know especially because of the heat it will fry through the turn signal sockets.

 

[plaintiger]

Thanks for the write up. Issue is I live in Texas and drive in the 100+ degree heat so I don’t know how it would fare there.

Also, will these bulbs fry through the sockets like the halogens will ? I know especially because of the heat it will fry through the turn signal sockets.

Right. As of yet, at least, I don't have an answer to either of these questions. @Rogozhin75 ? Anybody else?

 

[Rogozhin75]

Right. As of yet, at least, I don't have an answer to either of these questions. @Rogozhin75 ? Anybody else?

Hey fellas, I've ran mine in 80degree weather here for a drive south for a few hours and back and haven't had any issues with hyperflashing, nor have I had them burn out the sockets...

 

[caden24]

Hi all, I am new here. Just bought a 15 g80 5.0 and it has the passenger DRL that went out. I want to try those LEDs that were posted on this thread. However, I noticed the passenger side is hard to get to. Does anyone have any steps of how to about getting to the bulbs under the intake?

 

[Andyj]

I remove the plastic shroud, the strut bar, and the air box first. Then the headlight access is easy.

 

[plaintiger]

I remove the plastic shroud, the strut bar, and the air box first. Then the headlight access is easy.

Yep - that's exactly it. If I remember right it takes just a 10mm and a 15mm socket (I could be misremembering...though I'm sure about the 10mm). I also loosen the hose clamp holding the airbox to the hose and then I just pull the airbox free and flip it over on its head toward the center of the engine compartment to get it out of my way. Then reverse the steps (and don't forget any! ) when you're done.

 

[caden24]

Yep - that's exactly it. If I remember right it takes just a 10mm and a 15mm socket (I could be misremembering...though I'm sure about the 10mm). I also loosen the hose clamp holding the airbox to the hose and then I just pull the airbox free and flip it over on its head toward the center of the engine compartment to get it out of my way. Then reverse the steps (and don't forget any! ) when you're done.

So I got everything out. Went to install the LED and nothing. Blinker and DRL not working. I did notice under the bulb it is quite burnt. Are the adapters replaceable? If so anyone know the best way to replace them?

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[surprisinguy]

Are you trying to replace the halogen to an LED?
If so, the polarity of the socket might be reversed and you'll need to swap the pins in the plug.

 

[Andyj]

There's a Hyundai socket replacement kit (hard to find, part of the TSB), replacement oem sockets (pricey), and aftermarket sockets (cheap but not exact fit).

 

[Rogozhin75]

One is now hyperflashing on me gah

 

[caden24]

I ended up having to replace socket on passenger side. I think it's BS that Hyundai doesn't do a recall on this issue. Is it even possible some of the cars built in 2015-16 don't have this issue at all?

 

[plaintiger]

One is now hyperflashing on me gah

Gah indeed. I've been reading reviews on Amazon saying some people have had them give up the ghost in one way or another seven months or a year after installation. I'm kinda holding my breath...

Maybe there are better-quality ones out there...or maybe it's cost-effective to just keep buying these when they start hyperflashing? ()

 

[plaintiger]

I ended up having to replace socket on passenger side. I think it's BS that Hyundai doesn't do a recall on this issue. Is it even possible some of the cars built in 2015-16 don't have this issue at all?

Do you have reason to believe this is a widespread issue and not just something you alone are experiencing? Did I miss something? (I know I may well have - I often do.)

 

[caden24]

Do you have reason to believe this is a widespread issue and not just something you alone are experiencing? Did I miss something? (I know I may well have - I often do.)

I'm talking about the blinker, DRL socket the bulbs install into. The passenger side was pretty burnt. Surprised Hyundai hasn't had a recall on them since bulbs go out rather quick.

 

[Rogozhin75]

Gah indeed. I've been reading reviews on Amazon saying some people have had them give up the ghost in one way or another seven months or a year after installation. I'm kinda holding my breath...

Maybe there are better-quality ones out there...or maybe it's cost-effective to just keep buying these when they start hyperflashing? ()

Yep, so one lasted 11 months for me-the other is still going, I can get another pair for $25 and have one more spare and see how long they last this time

 

[plaintiger]

Well, three and a half months after I installed them I hit a pothole (thanks, New York!) with one of my directionals going and it immediately started hyperflashing. From this I deduce that these bulbs just aren't built to withstand real-world driving conditions that include any kind of bumps or other things that might jar them.

I went to AutoZone to see if they had any similar LED bulbs; they didn't, and I was impatient (and tired of going out of my way to find exotic directional bulbs), so I bought a pair of Sylvania long-life incandescents, marked the installation date on my calendar, and will see, when one or the other goes south, how long it's been since I installed them and whether I want to just keep using those.

They're not as bright as the LEDs, but I was surprised at how not-dim they are. They're much brighter than the incandescents that were in there when I bought the car.

Further bulletins as events warrant!

 

[srobak]

All I can tell you is that about 110k miles after I did the mod I linked to back in post #13 - and I didn't have to replace a single turn signal bulb and had nice, bright LEDs for DRLs. Of course it only works out that way having the switch position in either parking lights during the day, and headlights at night, rolling it back to parking when turning off the car. Yes - it leaves the brighter/modded LED eyebrows on, as well as the rear parking lights on all the time - but none of those LEDs burnt out over the course of 5+ years, either.