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G70 aftermarket brake pads

Even if they were covered, they weren't worn out or defective. They were just a poor choice for this vehicle. If they were to replace them, they'd just try to put the same ones back on, or keep turning/replacing the rotors.
 
You’re both correct; my argument was exactly that. At 6k miles, the dealer resurfaced my rotors after a brake pulsation. The dealer was clueless and only provided this as a solution. I called cooperate immediately after leaving and explained that their solution was nothing more than a bandaid. I also explained that this is a common occurrence and their solution compromised the integrity of the rotors and future repairs will include new rotors....also offered numerous forum threads as proof. As long as the initial problem began within that 12k mile window. I’d still call, regardless of the current mileage. Good luck
 
Anyone with experience using the Hawk 5.0 HPS pads? I found one happy stinger owner's review just for the fronts. I'm okay with more dust but I can't tolerate any sound, and it looks like at least one stinger owner had no issues. The price delta between these and the euro-spec pads is quite large.
 
Anyone with experience using the Hawk 5.0 HPS pads? I found one happy stinger owner's review just for the fronts. I'm okay with more dust but I can't tolerate any sound, and it looks like at least one stinger owner had no issues. The price delta between these and the euro-spec pads is quite large.
Just make sure to have the factory shims installed on the new brakes. I have EBC yellow stuff that squealed, but after adding factory shims + brake lube it was fixed. It’s aftermarket shims, grease on top, then factory shims.
 
Your pads are moving. Take apart and check you have the retaining clips in correctly. Look for bent pins at this point.
I am having the same issue, did you ever figure out the fix?
 
Anyone with experience using the Hawk 5.0 HPS pads? I found one happy stinger owner's review just for the fronts. I'm okay with more dust but I can't tolerate any sound, and it looks like at least one stinger owner had no issues. The price delta between these and the euro-spec pads is quite large.
I have been using them for over a year now. I love them.
Yes they create a lot more dust but I try to wash my car weekly.
Can be a bit squeaky occasionally but I don't care too much about that personally. Once their warmed up, it tends to go away.
 
I have not, I did put over 3000 miles since then, they still do it but everything seems to be alright otherwise, the pins don't appear to be bent (check occasionally and the car brakes fantastically. So far no glazing or other issues and braking power is close to my original Brembo pads
 
Hi All,

I, like canucklehead604 am one of those proud 6MT owners (also, Canadian, as you'll see below). Love the car! It's my daily driver; I haven't ever tracked it, but I do enjoy some spirited driving. :)

When getting my 60,000km servicing, I was informed by my dealer that the pads are down to 2mm-4mm and due for replacement, then quoted me an absurd $2500CAD for the pad & rotor replacement. I called a different Genesis dealer (Mississauga) just for part costs and was quoted $580CAD for front pads, $450CAD for rear pads, $400CAD for front rotors, $360 for rear rotors. (hating COVID for so many reasons now!)

Needless to say, I'm looking aftermarket at this point (and possibly doing the job myself). I fear that I may be doing something wrong, because the rockauto prices for the pads are roughly 1/8 of what I was quoted (I recognize they're not OEM, but still):
Front Pads: DYNAMIC FRICTION 1311214501 3000 Semi-Metallic; Includes Hardware Kit, Manual Trans - $71.51CAD
Rear Pads: DYNAMIC FRICTION 1311214401 3000 Semi-Metallic; Includes Hardware Kit, Manual Trans - $56.38CAD
Front Rotors: DYNAMIC FRICTION 60421038 GEOSPEC Coated Rotor, Manual Trans - $85.73 x 2
or DYNAMIC FRICTION 63121039L/R Drilled and Slotted; Silver, Manual Trans - $118.93 x2
Rear Rotors: DYNAMIC FRICTION 60421039 GEOSPEC Coated Rotor, Manual Trans - $106.24 x 2
or DYNAMIC FRICTION 63121038L/R Drilled and Slotted; Silver, Manual Trans - $147.13 + $150.97 (not sure why they're different prices, but whatever)

So would I be doing something totally wrong getting these at a fraction of the price of dealer OEM parts? Also, if I'm swapping out pads and rotors to aftermarket, would I still have to go with the "euro" spec semi-metallic style pads, or could I go to a ceramic pad and still avoid the dreaded shudder?
What ever became of this effort? I've been running RockAuto CENTRIC 12550041/12050042 front and rear rotors with 58101-J5A55 & 58302-J5A55 Euro-spec OEM pads for 30,000 miles now. Time to replace everything again and I, like many others, am discovering the exorbitant market price for more OEM pads! Ordered DYNAMIC FRICTION 63121039/63121038L Drilled and Slotted rotors, but still unsure on pads.

Would really like to go aftermarket on the pads too but have the same concerns. @canucklehead604 what makes you think that those "daily driver" pads are comparable? I believe you, just wanna see the spec comparison for myself.

"Also, if I'm swapping out pads and rotors to aftermarket, would I still have to go with the "euro" spec semi-metallic style pads, or could I go to a ceramic pad and still avoid the dreaded shudder?"
+1 - I still have PTSD from this I swear. Can anyone that's done a full ceramic pad/rotor aftermarket solution chime in?
 
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Would really like to go aftermarket on the pads too but have the same concerns. @canucklehead604 what makes you think that those "daily driver" pads are comparable? I believe you, just wanna see the spec comparison for myself.
^ sorry, which DD pads? been a long time and talked so much different brake pad info that i cannot recall that convo.
 
I did, and mine don't fit on the pins very well. Mine shift and click when I change directions forward and reverse.
I am glad I am not the only one with that experience. I installed the Z23. They work great but they shift slightly and "click" when I change direction as you describe. I have about 4,000 on them and other than the minor inconvenience, they have been good. Similar to the OEM brembos in terms of power but a bit less initial bite, which I miss a little. I will replace them by something with more oomph when it will be time.
 
I did, and mine don't fit on the pins very well. Mine shift and click when I change directions forward and reverse.
Interesting. I just installed DFC 5000 series metallic pads and am also getting the click. So it's not just a Powerstop thing.
 
So the dreaded brake shudder came back a few weeks ago.

Did a bunch of research and learned this isn't just a stock pads problem, it's a ceramic problem. Ceramic compounds stop the car by 'sticking' to the rotor as opposed to metallic pads which use abrasion.

As a result, any ceramic pad will start sticking if it gets too hot. My friend installed the Powerstop Z26 and also had the shudder problem come back. There's been a few others on this forum that have had it come back with aftermarket ceramics too.

So I bought a set of metallic pads. Logic is to use the metallics, which are more abrasive, to clean off the rotors and make them smooth again. After that, if the dust is too much too handle, I can swap back to the ceramics.

Using the metallics to clean the rotors will be part of yearly maintenance basically.

So far after roughly 100km the brakes are smooth again and I haven't noticed an excessive of dust. Might keep them.

On a side note the stock pads, despite being ceramics, are very very good at stopping the car. The metallics feel barely better.
 
I noticed that my brakes make a faint squeal when I start braking lightly. It goes away as I depress the brake more. I haven't noticed the shudder yet.
 
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Interesting. I just installed DFC 5000 series metallic pads and am also getting the click. So it's not just a Powerstop thing.
Same here with the clicking. Buddy who works at the dealership recommended removing the aftermarket shims and reinstalling the OEM ones. I just slapped the OEM over the existing. Might try it this weekend and see if it makes a difference.
 
Same here with the clicking. Buddy who works at the dealership recommended removing the aftermarket shims and reinstalling the OEM ones. I just slapped the OEM over the existing. Might try it this weekend and see if it makes a difference.
Interesting. Definitely post and let us know if it helps. Will go that route as well.
 
Guys, I was actually able to get a picture of the R1 pad shims versus OEM shims (from a friend). OEM is on the left, R1 is on the right. You can see the R1 shims probably leave space for the pads to move as they are shorter.

These are THE SAME PAD btw. I am not sure if this means OEM shims will fix the problem.
1653825584477.png
 
Guys, I was actually able to get a picture of the R1 pad shims versus OEM shims (from a friend). OEM is on the left, R1 is on the right. You can see the R1 shims probably leave space for the pads to move as they are shorter.

These are THE SAME PAD btw. I am not sure if this means OEM shims will fix the problem.
View attachment 45772
Interesting, you try swapping the shims by chance?
 
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