G70 Spark Plugs

[Toddasaurus]

Many already know this, but I figured I'd post it anyway.

The OEM G70 Spark Plugs are the same as the Stinger's, as in they are NGK Iridium plugs, p/n SILZFR7A. The gap I measured on mine was approx 0.0345", which would make sense as these are supposedly at a factory gap of 0.9mm (0.035").

These are decent plugs, but there are certainly better ones out there. The electrode is relatively thick for an iridium plug, but one nice thing is the tapered ground strap.

Pictures...






With the 7 heat range the ground and electrode are looking pretty clean.

Equivalent heat ranges would be...
Denso - 22
HKS - 35

...I wouldn't even consider any other brand than the above (ie NGK, Denso, or HKS).

For those of us using a piggyback unit and/or running more boost, most recommend reducing the gap and going one step colder on the heat range. I think both of these are good ideas.

That said, a 24, and 40 heat range (denso, and hks respectively) would be one step colder than stock. I bet that heat range would be just fine, especially for if you're making more power (aftermarket piggy back vendors already recommend this).

I was hoping to find an equivalent Denso Iridium TT plug for this, but evidently they don't make them in the appropriate heat range and size for our cars... I emailed Denso to see if they'll ever plan to expand their lineup with the iTT's (it's a relatively new style of plug), but I doubt they'll even respond, much less have any plans to make them for our cars.

Personally, I really like Denso plugs. And the Iridium Power plugs are most certainly an upgrade to the stock plugs. I just think that the Iridium TT's would be a little better in our application, specifically when using a smaller plug gap, but it sounds like we don't have that option (and probably never will).

 

[Beefer]

Denso 5346 plugs are 2 steps cooler. They should be gapped to 0.022". This is for the 3.3T.

The above works great with or without a PB tune.

 

[NLJ]

The 2.0T comes with a Heat Range of 8 stock NGK plugs. I may eventually change mine for a 9.

 

[Absintheuphoria]

For a moment there I thought that plug said, "Stinger" on it and was about to go, "oh F no, I'm replacing that..."

 

[Toddasaurus]

Denso 5346 plugs are 2 steps cooler. They should be gapped to 0.022". This is for the 3.3T.

The above works great with or without a PB tune.

I know BMS says they are 2 steps colder, but...



...NGK and Denso themselves state that it's 1 step colder. That is, a Denso 24 heat range is equivalent to an NGK 8 heat range. Stock heat range is 7, which would be 22 for Denso. Considering Denso doesn't make a 23 heat range, going from 22 to 24 is one step colder.

Denso 5346 = IKH24

EDIT: looks like I'm wrong! see below.

 

[Toddasaurus]

Denso 5346 plugs are 2 steps cooler. They should be gapped to 0.022". This is for the 3.3T.

The above works great with or without a PB tune.

Actually.... Thinking about it more, you're right.

Denso makes both odd and even numbered heat ranges. So, for a Denso plug, it is 2 steps colder compared to stock. For an equivalent NGK plug, on the other hand, it's only 1 step colder. Even though the relative heat ranges are the same, I guess it all depends on which brand you're referring to... Haha. Oh well.

 

[trdehmer]

So what is the consensus on what plugs to run for one step colder if running a PB tune?

 

[Beefer]

^ read above

 

[Toddasaurus]

18852-09070

So what is the consensus on what plugs to run for one step colder if running a PB tune?

Sounds like most people are either running Denso Iridium Power IKH24 plugs, gap them down to 0.22-0.26, or HKS m40il plugs with a similar gap.

I'm in the fence as for which plug to use. After more research it actually seems like the OEM NGK's are pretty unique in terms of features. They *very* similar to the HKS plugs (iridium alloy electrode in a similar diameter, Platinum ground electrode chip, trimmed ground electrode, copper core), except they have a projected tip. This helps center the electrode in the combustion chamber so it ignites the air/fuel mixture more from the middle, theoretically creating a more even and consistent burn.

In my opinion, the only thing lacking on the OEM plugs is a colder heat range version. I'm thinking about sticking with OEM, trimming back the ground electrode strap a little bit more, and decreasing the gap to about 0.030". The fact that these things are running as reliably as they are with a 0.035" gap on the stock engine is amazing. I doubt any other plug would work as well using this same gap, minus the Denso Iridium TT's, but they don't make them for our cars' heat range...

Anyway, I figure some water injection will cool down the combustion process enough to where the 7 heat range will work with the extra power without frying the plugs. We will see.



EDIT: to better illustrate the projected tip on the OEM plugs, here is a side-by-side pic. Denso Iridium Power on the left, OEM NGK on the right. Notice how the center electrode and ground strap sticks out more, it would sit deeper in the cylinder when installed.

 

[NLJ]

The 2.0T already has a Heat Range of 8 for the stock plugs. All my logs don't indicate and knocks or spark plug related issues so I'm staying put for now. But if they do need replacing, I will get the HKS M45XL or the NGK R2556.
The Denso plugs for the 3.3t is super cheap. The alternative plugs for the 2.0T are pricey!

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[Toddasaurus]

The 2.0T already has a Heat Range of 8 for the stock plugs. All my logs don't indicate and knocks or spark plug related issues so I'm staying put for now. But if they do need replacing, I will get the HKS M45XL or the NGK R2556.
The Denso plugs for the 3.3t is super cheap. The alternative plugs for the 2.0T are pricey!

Yeah I noticed that!! Interesting indeed.

 

[Vmusso]

Just purchased a 3.3T, anyone heard about the Race Chip tuner? Its a plug and play and can easily be removed when servicing to not void the warranty. They claim a 57HP and 133 ft-lb increase + 20% better fuel economy.

 

[Beefer]

^ it’s generic garbage. Stick to the JB4.

 

[BlackedOutG70]

Just purchased a 3.3T, anyone heard about the Race Chip tuner? Its a plug and play and can easily be removed when servicing to not void the warranty. They claim a 57HP and 133 ft-lb increase + 20% better fuel economy.

As Beefer just said^
Definitely get the JB4, most effective and reliable tune for the g70 as of right now

 

[maxsilver]

Just purchased a 3.3T, anyone heard about the Race Chip tuner? Its a plug and play and can easily be removed when servicing to not void the warranty. They claim a 57HP and 133 ft-lb increase + 20% better fuel economy.

I have one for sale if you are interested. I wouldn't say it's garbage by any means. The power gains from the device are super noticeable, and I haven't even tried out the most aggressive settings yet.

I managed to find a slightly used JB4 locally for a too good to pass up price, so I'm going to sell the RaceChip. Used RaceChips sell for less than JB4's do, so if you are looking to make good power on a budget it's a good device. It makes no sense whatsover to pay full new price for a RaceChip though, as the JB4 dollar for dollar at full price is a more robust device with better high end gains.

 

[NLJ]

I wouldn't buy Race Chip anything. Their customer support is downright stupid and can't explain simple things. Apparently they box works on magic and pixie dust!

 

[Vmusso]

As Beefer just said^
Definitely get the JB4, most effective and reliable tune for the g70 as of right now

I'm assuming that it voids the warranty?

 

[BlackedOutG70]

I'm assuming that it voids the warranty?

Does not void warranty because it does not reflash the ecu. Its called a piggyback tune which essentially can be removed without a trace and can’t be proved it was ever there. Prior to going to the dealership for service or etc. uninstall it takes less than 10 min.

 

[Beefer]

^ shhh....it takes less than 2 min

 

[Vmusso]

Does not void warranty because it does not reflash the ecu. Its called a piggyback tune which essentially can be removed without a trace and can’t be proved it was ever there. Prior to going to the dealership for service or etc. uninstall it takes less than 10 min.

Thanks, I appreciate the info