Have you had problems with your Genesis?

[incontrovertible]

Re: Radio doesn't recognize USB port

The dealer replaced the USB unit and declared victory. I drove the car for about three miles with the USB unit working properly when it suddenly quit. Now, it's not recognizing the USB port again. The tech is stumped. He called hyundai's tech support line and could not reach anyone. I'm waiting to hear from him to see what the next step will be.

The Hyundai tech people said the radio needed to be pulled and repaired. The dealer pulled the radio today. I won't get it back for about two weeks. Bummer!

 

[gennsis]

I got my new 2012 Genesis about a month ago. As required, I push the brake pedal before pressing the start button to start the car. Yesterday, however, when I tried to push the brake pedal, it would not go down. It was as if I were locked in place. After couple to tries I pressed the start button. It seemed to help "unlock" the brake peddle and I was able to press the start button and start the car. I have not experience this again. Has any other Genesis owner experienced this? This could have been a serious problem if it occurred while driving on the road.

 

[scottdk]

I got my new 2012 Genesis about a month ago. As required, I push the brake pedal before pressing the start button to start the car. Yesterday, however, when I tried to push the brake pedal, it would not go down. It was as if I were locked in place. After couple to tries I pressed the start button. It seemed to help "unlock" the brake peddle and I was able to press the start button and start the car. I have not experience this again. Has any other Genesis owner experienced this? This could have been a serious problem if it occurred while driving on the road.

Do you have kids that might have been in your car in the drivers seat by chance? I ask since if you press the brake pedal down while the engine is off, the brake pedal will be taunt after a couple of pumps.

 

[gennsis]

Do you have kids that might have been in your car in the drivers seat by chance? I ask since if you press the brake pedal down while the engine is off, the brake pedal will be taunt after a couple of pumps.

No kids. It is possible, but unlikely that I pumped the pedal while the engine was off. I am still in the "exploration" stage and am finding new features each time I drive the car. It is possible that while looking at different features I might have pressed the brake peddle.

 

[mikec]

The Genesis brake system, like the vast majority of vehicles on the road since the 70s, uses trapped engine vacuum as the brake power assist. A check valve traps vacuum in the brake booster assembly. When the engine is off, the vacuum should stay trapped for a while. It can leak/bleed down over a few days on its own, or if somebody (like the kids mentioned by scottdk) pumps the brake pedal that bleeds it down quickly - the booster is good for 2 or 3 full brake applications with the engine off (i.e. emergency stopping).

As a result, it's not uncommon for the pedal to feel rock hard when starting, especially if the vehicle has been parked for a few days. If you tend to have the brake pedal depressed while shutting the engine off you're reducing the stored vacuum right away so what's left will bleed down even more quickly. Even with a fully empty booster, you shouldn't have to really stand on the pedal to trigger the engine starter though; mine needs a push only a little firmer than a typical use of the brakes to stop for a red light. Mine gets the "rock hard" after a couple days being parked. If yours gets a rock hard pedal in less than 1 day's park time I'd have Hyundai check the system for leaks or a bad check valve.

Brake booster testing:
1: run the engine for a little bit, then shut it off with your foot off the brake pedal. This "charges" the vacuum in the booster.
2: push on the pedal (engine still off) with a fair bit of force and note how far down it travels.
3: release the pedal, then push on it again with the same force. It should move down almost as far as step 2.
4: release the pedal and then push it again... same force again. It'll probably move less this time as there is a lot less trapped vacuum assisting you.
5: repeat step 4 a few times... the pedal will eventually get to the point where it barely moves at all - all vacuum assist is gone.
6: hold the pedal down fairly firmly and start the engine. Once the engine starts the pedal should sink considerably as the engine recharges the booster.

If those steps pass, your power braking is functioning normally. Even if the booster develops a vacuum leak it'll still work normally unless the leak is really huge. The engine makes a lot of vacuum. If the booster totally fails for some reason (really rare, and really really rare to fail suddenly/without warning) the brakes will still work if you really stand on the pedal. You can always downshift and/or use the parking brake to help slow down too. A dying booster (i.e one that leaks) will only allow 1 or 2 pedal applications (steps 2 & 3 above) before getting rock hard. One with a really huge vacuum leak will be rock hard on step 2, and won't sink much on step 6. Those steps won't identify a small leak; that requires a vacuum gauge basically.

mike c.

 

[gennsis]

The Genesis brake system, like the vast majority of vehicles on the road since the 70s, uses trapped engine vacuum as the brake power assist. A check valve traps vacuum in the brake booster assembly. When the engine is off, the vacuum should stay trapped for a while. It can leak/bleed down over a few days on its own, or if somebody (like the kids mentioned by scottdk) pumps the brake pedal that bleeds it down quickly - the booster is good for 2 or 3 full brake applications with the engine off (i.e. emergency stopping).

As a result, it's not uncommon for the pedal to feel rock hard when starting, especially if the vehicle has been parked for a few days. If you tend to have the brake pedal depressed while shutting the engine off you're reducing the stored vacuum right away so what's left will bleed down even more quickly. Even with a fully empty booster, you shouldn't have to really stand on the pedal to trigger the engine starter though; mine needs a push only a little firmer than a typical use of the brakes to stop for a red light. Mine gets the "rock hard" after a couple days being parked. If yours gets a rock hard pedal in less than 1 day's park time I'd have Hyundai check the system for leaks or a bad check valve.

Brake booster testing:
1: run the engine for a little bit, then shut it off with your foot off the brake pedal. This "charges" the vacuum in the booster.
2: push on the pedal (engine still off) with a fair bit of force and note how far down it travels.
3: release the pedal, then push on it again with the same force. It should move down almost as far as step 2.
4: release the pedal and then push it again... same force again. It'll probably move less this time as there is a lot less trapped vacuum assisting you.
5: repeat step 4 a few times... the pedal will eventually get to the point where it barely moves at all - all vacuum assist is gone.
6: hold the pedal down fairly firmly and start the engine. Once the engine starts the pedal should sink considerably as the engine recharges the booster.

If those steps pass, your power braking is functioning normally. Even if the booster develops a vacuum leak it'll still work normally unless the leak is really huge. The engine makes a lot of vacuum. If the booster totally fails for some reason (really rare, and really really rare to fail suddenly/without warning) the brakes will still work if you really stand on the pedal. You can always downshift and/or use the parking brake to help slow down too. A dying booster (i.e one that leaks) will only allow 1 or 2 pedal applications (steps 2 & 3 above) before getting rock hard. One with a really huge vacuum leak will be rock hard on step 2, and won't sink much on step 6. Those steps won't identify a small leak; that requires a vacuum gauge basically.

mike c.

Thanks for the detailed explanation. Understanding what is going on helps. I am not worried anymore. Again thanks.

 

[BMW Diehard]

Re: Radio doesn't recognize USB port

The dealer replaced the USB unit and declared victory. I drove the car for about three miles with the USB unit working properly when it suddenly quit. Now, it's not recognizing the USB port again. The tech is stumped. He called hyundai's tech support line and could not reach anyone. I'm waiting to hear from him to see what the next step will be.

HAHAHA, sounds like a Kernel/Darwin code/extension execution issue onboard the computers motherboard BIOS.

Apple ipod/iphone talk here..
They have to incorporate it into their cars, it probably needs to be fully reformatted, and your computer wiped and properly reset, unfortunately for you, this will require a LOT of dealership time, and even more tenacity by you as the owner to make sure they fix it, instead of "replace" over and over again until they figure it out.

You need a diagnostician, these things happen all the time in computers, especially Mac/Apple hardware computers. You keep plugging and unplugging your iphone/ipod in your genny, like constantly replugging a keyboard/mouse in and out of your Apple computer, this requires scripting code to be written (software) by apple, and the HATC techs, that properly syncs both products, car and media device wether it be phone or iPod. So that being said, back to my distant diagnosis, the code that's written is the most basic Apple Kernal and Darwin code. Google it, I'm actually pretty damn tired, midnight, friday night, just sitting I'm in fierce pain.

Find out as much as you possibly can about darwin "panic attacks" and kernel executions, there's probably going to be a lot hyundai techs looking at this post, LMAO, so some appreciation would be nice!

Dare I say, a computer recall might be an issue regarding the onboard computer, depending on what you're using, iPod or iPhone, it may have corrupted your kernel extension executions on your actual ipod/phone, though highly unlikely, if the computer is wiped on the car, and the plugs completely replaced, and the issue persists, it may be your device, which will entail a replacing of EVERYTHING... again.

So diagnose, without replacing as much as possible. How do I know this stuff and there isn't a HATC tech to help you guys out on here?

 

[BMW Diehard]

I am well versed on the adaptive cruise but I do believe the issue lies within the engine management software. As of today, I have been to the dealership 6 times since late March. My vehicle has been out of service for 81 days... Unacceptable.
I just sent my Demand Letter to Hyundai Motors U.S.A. on 6/22/12 as advised by my attorney. As a consumer, I/we are protected on both Federal and State levels by statutes put in place to address "Lemons." I will keep everyone posted.
Hyundai Motors U.S.A. has 10 days to respond to my demands (full refund of monies applied to payments, trade in capital and down payment attributable to me minus the 2750 miles attributable to me). Hyundai will be afforded one more chance to repair my vehicle. After I deliver my car to a dealership, Hyundai will have 10 days to conform the vehicle to warranty or be subject to the refund or enter into arbitration.
If anyone would like to read the Demand Letter, please email me and I will send it to you or I will post it if apropos.
I don't want anyone to experience the misery and terror my family and I have been enduring for nearly 3 months, so I am sharing my experience.
The next step is contingent on Hyundai and how they treat me in regard to this egregious issue. It is worth noting that I have purchased 4 Hyundai products in the last 36 months and I have been thoroughly satisfied with the cars; excellent products. This Genesis, however, has been an absolute let down and has put me and others in my vicinity on the street at risk of life and limb too many times to count...
Thank you, folks.

WHOA..

I thought my issue was insane, well it is, more so unfortunate than this but... Damn!
I really wish you the best of luck, please do let us know how they treat you through or after the arbitration process I should say. If it's anything like auto insurance claims, they'll try to get a rise out of you, though will have less luck and leverage to do so because this is a "sale of product" issue that's under warranty Vs. "how badly was your life really ruined?" type issue.

Fortunately for you regarding consortium, you can claim for both, to make sure Hyundai USA complies with State and Federal Law. 3 months without your vehicle that you paid hard earned money for, wow..
Well, in a rough economy, it's like I learned 2 years ago the hard way, there's no money in being ethical/moral these days. It's not right, but it's the cold hard truth, I've learned to expect such malice these days from more angles than I'd ever wish on my worst enemy.

 

[incontrovertible]

Re: Radio doesn't recognize USB port

The only thing I've plugged into the USB port is a memory stick. It has no operating system, etc, so I don't understand your comments about how it could have wiped out the kernel/darwin code.

HAHAHA, sounds like a Kernel/Darwin code/extension execution issue onboard the computers motherboard BIOS.

Apple ipod/iphone talk here..
They have to incorporate it into their cars, it probably needs to be fully reformatted, and your computer wiped and properly reset, unfortunately for you, this will require a LOT of dealership time, and even more tenacity by you as the owner to make sure they fix it, instead of "replace" over and over again until they figure it out.

You need a diagnostician, these things happen all the time in computers, especially Mac/Apple hardware computers. You keep plugging and unplugging your iphone/ipod in your genny, like constantly replugging a keyboard/mouse in and out of your Apple computer, this requires scripting code to be written (software) by apple, and the HATC techs, that properly syncs both products, car and media device wether it be phone or iPod. So that being said, back to my distant diagnosis, the code that's written is the most basic Apple Kernal and Darwin code. Google it, I'm actually pretty damn tired, midnight, friday night, just sitting I'm in fierce pain.

Find out as much as you possibly can about darwin "panic attacks" and kernel executions, there's probably going to be a lot hyundai techs looking at this post, LMAO, so some appreciation would be nice!

Dare I say, a computer recall might be an issue regarding the onboard computer, depending on what you're using, iPod or iPhone, it may have corrupted your kernel extension executions on your actual ipod/phone, though highly unlikely, if the computer is wiped on the car, and the plugs completely replaced, and the issue persists, it may be your device, which will entail a replacing of EVERYTHING... again.

So diagnose, without replacing as much as possible. How do I know this stuff and there isn't a HATC tech to help you guys out on here?

 

[Mark63021]

DANGIT! The blocked-user function is pointless when you guys quote him in reply!

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[Glashub]

Re: Radio doesn't recognize USB port

HAHAHA, sounds like a Kernel/Darwin code/extension execution issue onboard the computers motherboard BIOS.

Apple ipod/iphone talk here..
They have to incorporate it into their cars, it probably needs to be fully reformatted, and your computer wiped and properly reset, unfortunately for you, this will require a LOT of dealership time, and even more tenacity by you as the owner to make sure they fix it, instead of "replace" over and over again until they figure it out.

You need a diagnostician, these things happen all the time in computers, especially Mac/Apple hardware computers. You keep plugging and unplugging your iphone/ipod in your genny, like constantly replugging a keyboard/mouse in and out of your Apple computer, this requires scripting code to be written (software) by apple, and the HATC techs, that properly syncs both products, car and media device wether it be phone or iPod. So that being said, back to my distant diagnosis, the code that's written is the most basic Apple Kernal and Darwin code. Google it, I'm actually pretty damn tired, midnight, friday night, just sitting I'm in fierce pain.

Find out as much as you possibly can about darwin "panic attacks" and kernel executions, there's probably going to be a lot hyundai techs looking at this post, LMAO, so some appreciation would be nice!

Dare I say, a computer recall might be an issue regarding the onboard computer, depending on what you're using, iPod or iPhone, it may have corrupted your kernel extension executions on your actual ipod/phone, though highly unlikely, if the computer is wiped on the car, and the plugs completely replaced, and the issue persists, it may be your device, which will entail a replacing of EVERYTHING... again.

So diagnose, without replacing as much as possible. How do I know this stuff and there isn't a HATC tech to help you guys out on here?

Do tell us more about your expertise in kernel programming so we can better appreciate the brilliant mind that blesses this forum. Also if you could relate speculation regarding Darwin’s alleged panic disorder to your dissertation on kernel programming, I'd appreciate it.

Finally, perhaps you could close with some insight as to what compels you to post on a forum for a car you don't own and why you seem to delight in others pain.

 

[ergen]

I got my new 2012 Genesis about a month ago. As required, I push the brake pedal before pressing the start button to start the car. Yesterday, however, when I tried to push the brake pedal, it would not go down. It was as if I were locked in place. After couple to tries I pressed the start button. It seemed to help "unlock" the brake peddle and I was able to press the start button and start the car. I have not experience this again. Has any other Genesis owner experienced this? This could have been a serious problem if it occurred while driving on the road.

My wife told me she had experienced something just like that couple weeks ago. I dont know what it was, maybe the same thing you had.

Also, I was having problems with my A/C during very hot days (above 90F). It was fine on highway but blowing warm during slow traffic & red lights/stop signs. Took it to the dealer and got the A/C compressor replaced under warranty ($850 repair). So far so good.

 

[Dicko]

The amp quit working for 1/2 hour tried factory reset didn't work but the volume meter on the dash said it was putting out sound. Made about 5 stops when it wasn't working and was driving to the dealer and it started working again and has worked for a week now without a problem.

 

[DougFR]

See my post titled "Left Turn Acceleration"

 

[Hammer578]

Just picked up my 2012 R Spec yesterday and my wiper blade is coming on by itself. I am sure it will be a quick fix. Traded a 2011 Acura MDX with no issues no I really hope this one stays reliable.

 

[Jbo]

Wiper has an "auto" position on the stalk, when in that position the wipers will start and / or speed up when rain is detected or increases in intensity. Unfortunately , it needs to be turned off in a car wash if the wash is with brushes or that "rug" pull across windshield type.

 

[Hammer578]

I noticed the auto function which I had on. The issue is it will be sunny and 85 and it will come on and wipe once and go back down. Seems to have a mind of its own. Thanks for the info.

 

[Jbo]

Probably the sensor or some foreign debris colluding the sensor, which is located at top edge of windshield.

 

[Jbo]

Believe it or not, my R-Spec sedan started doing same thing yesterday. I think it has to do with "band tint" at top of windshield, driving in very bright Sun and then abruptly hitting a very shady( dark) area. I get one wipe and done. Will have dealer look at it.

 

[homeofstone]

Believe it or not, my R-Spec sedan started doing same thing yesterday. I think it has to do with "band tint" at top of windshield, driving in very bright Sun and then abruptly hitting a very shady( dark) area. I get one wipe and done. Will have dealer look at it.

similar here but mine was caused by Bird Sh--.