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Intake valve cleaning from carbon build up

I wonder if you could show me exactly how and where exactly you'd spray CRC cleaner passes the MAF sensors in Genesis g80. I couldn't find out how. Also, will that throw any error codes?
The 2015 Genesis 5.0 V8 does not have a MAF sensor. Our engines uses a MAP sensor, however I am not sure if that changed with later G80 models.
I will just stick the straw from the CRC can into the intake tube leading into the throttle body while keeping the intake tube in place so that engine does not shutoff while spraying small bursts of the chemical into the throttle body in such a manner that it does not stall out the engine. However, I will only do this just before my oil is to be changed to remove oil contaminated with the cleaner after the process. CRC is suppose to continue to breakup the carbon long after the initial treatment.

I am not sure about the G80 , but Honda engines throw codes for a while after using the CRC and then go away while improving engine performance. Hopefully it works the same for my 5.0 V8, however I will not use the method used in the video for application since the MAP sensor may need to be cleaned as well since it is downstream of the oily film produced by the PCV system so it could use a cleaning as well. CRC only specify not using the cleaner on MAF sensors not MAP sensors.
 
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Dont Hyundai Service do this if requested. Its looks like a typical service thing when the standard oil change is done.
Its a bit complicated , and i'm worried it might start to throw engine warnings.

My car is just over 40k , and i am doubtful the previous owner never did any of this engine cleaning.
If there are any DIY videos on the best way to do this on the V6 3.8 engine , that would be very helpful to everyone .
 
$115 @ the dealer. Spray clean the butterfly and a can into the intake. Yes it does throw a code. Dealer reset.
 
Did you feel any difference in the engine (smoothness , idling) after the cleaning ?
 
3 mpg hwy increase. idle same ? wife's car
 
Dont Hyundai Service do this if requested. Its looks like a typical service thing when the standard oil change is done.
Its a bit complicated , and i'm worried it might start to throw engine warnings.

My car is just over 40k , and i am doubtful the previous owner never did any of this engine cleaning.
If there are any DIY videos on the best way to do this on the V6 3.8 engine , that would be very helpful to everyone .
I posted a video on the first page of this thread of the more popular VW/Audi 2.0T engine cleaning which would be similar the 3.8 cleaning except for the number of cylinders and slight changes per engine design. You would just need to research how to remove the intake manifold on the 3.8 engine.
 
I have no experience on the G80. Mine is a 5.0 V8. No codes or errors thrown, no MAF issues (TAU 5.0 does not use a MAF).
Loosen the entire front air cleaner unit; loosen the resonator clamps and remove section from intake manifold and spray directly into engine (while maintaining RPM up to 2500, i believe). Easier to do as a 2-man job.
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I have no experience on the G80. Mine is a 5.0 V8. No codes or errors thrown, no MAF issues (TAU 5.0 does not use a MAF).
Loosen the entire front air cleaner unit; loosen the resonator clamps and remove section from intake manifold and spray directly into engine (while maintaining RPM up to 2500, i believe). Easier to do as a 2-man job.
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Nice diagram, however the intake manifold in mislabeled. You labeled the intake duct as the intake manifold. The intake manifold is the black plastic section with the eight runners behind the throttle body.
 
Fuel additives will not prevent the carbon buildup on GDI (direct injection engine). You should use high-quality oil and oil catch can. I'm using it on my 5.0. I've also attached a picture where you guys can see how much this can catch during 5k miles.
 

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Fuel additives will not prevent the carbon buildup on GDI (direct injection engine). You should use high-quality oil and oil catch can. I'm using it on my 5.0. I've also attached a picture where you guys can see how much this can catch during 5k miles.
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I agree that fuel additives alone will not prevent carbon build-up alone, however the valves will still become dirty even with a catch can. Catch cans do appear to remove much of the oil residue produced by the PCV system, however many of the blow-by contaminates occurs during the combustion process which contaminates the combustion chamber itself including the fuel injectors. Therefore, fuel additives does help keep the combustion chamber clean while the catch cans helps keep the back of the valves clean.

Note: Some engines also leaves the valves open longer during the combustion process so most of the dirty oily blow-by just attach itself to the valves at the time when the valves are open, which means that an oil can will not completely solve the carbon build-up problem. Oil catch cans help to reduce the build-up, but not by much from what I read when used alone. Therefore, fuel additives and top-tier fuels are still needed to keep direct injection engines running well.
 
That catch can in the 5L photo above is a generic chinesium type found on ebay for $15-$25. I kinda like the idea of using one that has the clear plastic bottom. Do not get the type with three ports or a vent.

Installing one of these on a V6 looks like a bit of a pain. The PCV valve is on the very back of the right cam cover, tucked under the throttle body. Some parts will need to be removed to get to the ports on the cam cover and plenum inlet.
 
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I don't want to be THAT guy, so please correct me if I'm wrong. Both the 3.8 and 5.0 are "V" engines. With 2 banks. So they should have 2 breather hoses. One for each bank. They would both run from the valve cover on each cylinder head to the intake hose or manifold.

Looking at the pics above, I see the catch can running to the hose for the right bank. What appears to be the breather hose for the left bank is still running to the intake, right before the throttle body.

Wouldn't we need 2 catch cans, or find a way to run both breather hoses to one catch can?
 
The 3.8 has one PCV valve. I would think the 5.0L is the same.

No need for two as both heads and crankcase are connected via oil drain back passages.
 
That's good to know. Keeps things from getting complicated and too expensive.

Any idea what that the other hose is that runs to the intake tube?
 
Sorry, apparently I just needed to learn how the pcv valve works. Thanks. 😅
 
Not sure which hose you are talking about.

The PCV valve is between the positive crankcase pressure (piston ring blow-by) and the negative pressure (compared to outside) in the intake manifold, inhaling and burning any misted oil so it doesn't end up in the atmosphere or all over your engine.

The catch can cannot be vented to outside atmosphere, or it would just suck in a whole lot of unregulated air and lean out the engine.
 
It's the intake hose for the pcv system.
 
Nice diagram, however the intake manifold in mislabeled. You labeled the intake duct as the intake manifold. The intake manifold is the black plastic section with the eight runners behind the throttle body.
Yes, the yellow line is too long and should indicate the manifold opening, not the duct.
 
If you buy the Mishimoto baffled catch can from amazon, DO NOT buy the hose that Amazon recommends. Its too small for the car and the catch can fittings. Fortunately, I had some vacuum hose laying around... Unfortunately, its orange. I ordered some more black.
 

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