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Led drl's and fogs

Bert Man

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5K WHITE 10 LED FOG LIGHT BULBS H8
http://www.vleds.com/bulb/h-series/h8/5k-white-10-led-drl-fog-light-bulbs-h8-1-pair.html

6K WHITE 6 LED DRL LIGHT BULBS H7
http://www.vleds.com/bulb/h-series/h7/6k-white-6-led-drl-fog-light-bulbs-h7-1-pair.html

Yes I know I lose the high beam functionality of the halogens but that yellow color from the DRL's was just gross looking to me. Especially since they are on all the time. You can still flash these LED bulbs but they are not highbeams. The difference between the 6 and 10 leds is 125 lumens.

The 6k DRL bulbs have a faint blue tint to them and look pretty darn sharp during the daytime. I wanted a little blue color in there because they only run by themselves (unlike the fogs)

The 5K FOGs more accurately represent a pure white color. I went with 5k for the fogs to try and match the HID lows. Unfortunately, these leds make the HID lows look slightly yellow.

Next upgrade will be D1S Osram Xenarc 66144 CBI bulbs. Hopefully I can get a pure white color out of these bulbs.
http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?products_id=17166







would like to figure out how to wire the led strip to act as DRL's



Night pics dont do the color any justice. Very hard to capture the actual color.

DRL




FOGs


 
Can you see the fog lights on the road at all? The problem with LED's is that they look great when looking at them but are basically useless for light output (with the exception of the new Audi headlights (look it up)).
 
Can you see the fog lights on the road at all? The problem with LED's is that they look great when looking at them but are basically useless for light output (with the exception of the new Audi headlights (look it up)).

There really is no usable light that reflects on the road. I rarely use/need foglights anyway but it does annoy me that they are useless now although they look nice.

The morimoto H8 hid kit would be a great solution for the foglights. Exceptional light output compared to stock and they look just as good as leds.

My main goal was to match the color of the hid lows to the foglights. Getting the morimoto h8 kit and morimoto d1s bulbs in the same kelvin rating would be the easiest solution. However, I still want to use the Osram Xenarc in the low beams since they seem to be the best of the best....so to speak.

I believe I saw a post of yours stating you have the morimoto d1s bulbs? If so, whats your opinion?

CBI's are a great and simple upgrade.

Do you have them?
 
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I do have the Morimotos. This is my second set of 5000K's (had the first set in my Nissan) and they are excellent. Superior light output and color matching. My Nissan's were still going strong after 3 years and I expect these to last at least this long. For the price, they cannot be beat.

On a side note, the Genesis projectors themselves need a serious upgrade.

I would never put HID's or LED's in my fogs personally. I use them all the time and the HID's glare badly. It wouldn't make sense to have some lights on my car that don't work as lights lol
 
I do have the Morimotos. This is my second set of 5000K's (had the first set in my Nissan) and they are excellent. Superior light output and color matching. My Nissan's were still going strong after 3 years and I expect these to last at least this long. For the price, they cannot be beat.

On a side note, the Genesis projectors themselves need a serious upgrade.

I would never put HID's or LED's in my fogs personally. I use them all the time and the HID's glare badly. It wouldn't make sense to have some lights on my car that don't work as lights lol

I saw on TRS they have some clear lenses that are made for the Sonata
http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?products_id=19520

I wonder if that will work for the genesis also...

75$ for the morimotos so I guess its worth a shot compared to the 200$ for the osrams
 
I would say it is. Watch for color match problems. I had a small problem with the two on my Nissan being slightly different colors and had to exchange them. But I didn't have those problems with this pair.

I hope they do make a clear lens upgrade for our projectors, but that isn't the main problem. The optics of these aren't optimal compared to a lexus/infiniti/M-B :/
 
Pulled the trigger on the d1s Osram Xenarc 66144 CBI bulbs and the morimoto 5k h8 kit for the fogs.

The kelvin rating for the osrams is 5500 so im hoping they will look very similiar to the morimoto 5k.

Was very tempted to buy the morimoto 6k h7 for the drl/hi beams (especially since I had a 20% off code but I think hids for drl's is excessive.

Knowing me, that one time where I actually need my brights and cannot use them b/c im using leds in there, ill probably go back and buy them.
 
Was very tempted to buy the morimoto 6k h7 for the drl/hi beams (especially since I had a 20% off code but I think hids for drl's is excessive.

Knowing me, that one time where I actually need my brights and cannot use them b/c im using leds in there, ill probably go back and buy them.


DRL uses 9 volts of electricity, high beam uses 12, and HID requires 12 to properly ignite. When a HID is given 9 volts, it will start to blink because it didn't ignite properly. It will be kind of like when some fluorescent lamps did not properly ignite or when one tube is burned and the other one start blinking. If you if you don't remove the DRL fuse, it will kill the HID very fast. If you use say a 30 amp relay kit, the lower voltage fed when in DRL mode will just ignite the HID's to be on at all times.

Keep in mind that if you install HID in high beam or foglight you will lose the ability to flash people with high beam. Because you don't want to keep on turning on and off the HID in a matter of seconds, again reducing the life of the HID.

If you have HID fog lights, when high beam is on, the fog lights will turn off (at least it works that way on my 3G TL-S, not sure if it's that same on the Genny).

I'm sure someone else well chime in on the refraction, blinding people and the obligatory link over to daniel stern lighting in regards to your fog lights.. I'm in for future pics and seeing your D1S upgrade output (if at all possible with the stock and Osram's in pls!).
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If you have HID fog lights, when high beam is on, the fog lights will turn off (at least it works that way on my 3G TL-S, not sure if it's that same on the Genny).

United States vehicle law says that when your high beams turn on the foglights must turn off. All cars in the US do it unless modified/AM foglights.
 
Pulled the trigger on the d1s Osram Xenarc 66144 CBI bulbs and the morimoto 5k h8 kit for the fogs.

The kelvin rating for the osrams is 5500 so im hoping they will look very similiar to the morimoto 5k.

Was very tempted to buy the morimoto 6k h7 for the drl/hi beams (especially since I had a 20% off code but I think hids for drl's is excessive.

Knowing me, that one time where I actually need my brights and cannot use them b/c im using leds in there, ill probably go back and buy them.

I suggest returning those. You can't use HIDs in foglights at all. It actually makes incremental weather vision worse and glares a LOT in clear weather and you will be blinding other drivers. There is a reason that no reputable company makes HID foglights, because they go completely against their purpose.

HID high beams is not excessive, it just doesn't work at all. Reduced DRL voltage will destroy HID bulbs as will turning them off and on and not allowing them to reach operating temperature when flashing your brights.
 
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Too much foreground lighting can be detrimental... and cause your eyes to focus improperly.

In clear conditions, more foreground light is not a good thing, it's a bad thing. Some foreground light is necessary so you can use your peripheral vision to see where you are relative to the road edges, the lane markings and that pothole 10 feet in front of your left wheels. But foreground light is far less safety-critical than light cast well down the road into the distance, because at any significant speed (much above 30 mph), what's in the foreground is too close for you to do much about. If you increase the foreground light, your pupils react to the bright, wide pool of light by constricting, which in turn substantially reduces your distance vision—especially since there's no increase in down-the-road distance light to go along with the increased foreground light. It's insidious, because high levels of foreground light give the illusion, the subjective impression, of comfort and security and "good lighting".

This thread would not be complete without the following:

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/lights/fog_lamps/fog_lamps.html
 
^^

SCUMBAG%20STEVE.jpg
 
installed the new osram cbi bulbs and and 5k morimoto hid fogs. color match is pretty close but not perfect. I can live with it because the cbi bulbs are much better then stock. I need to find a pitch black parking lot with a wall so i can adjust the cutoff a little better and re-aim the fog lights. However, without any adjustments and just plug and play, the light output is much better and the color is closer to pure white.

fog light ballast wiring is plug and play. you do not need to use the heavy duty relay. the only issue ive noticed going this route is if you have the foglight switch always in the "on" position (meaning the fogs will turn on when you put the low beams on), sometimes one fog light will not fire up. To avoid that I need to put the low beams on first then turn the fogs on. Doing it this way makes sure they both fire up every time

front bumper needs to be partially taken off in order to remove the headlight from the car.







stock


cbi


stock on left, cbi on right


passenger side fog light ballast mounting location. does not make contact with airbox.


driver side fog light ballast location




working on getting pics of the lights actually on lol
 
Why did you have to remove the headlight? For the Morimoto HID wiring on the fogs? I'm really hoping it wasn't required to simply swap in Xenarc bulbs.

Thanks
 
^ It is to change the bulbs. And the only reason is because the retaining clip is held in with 2 screws. Why Hyundai did this most retarded thing...nobody knows.
 
^ It is to change the bulbs. And the only reason is because the retaining clip is held in with 2 screws. Why Hyundai did this most retarded thing...nobody knows.

Holy hell of asinine design...and I thought Acura/Honda forcing people (it's literally in the manual) to reach up through then fender well after removing the clips and prying back the fender lining (sometimes easier to jack the car up, remove wheel, and then the procedure to change the bulb) to access the headlight bulbs was ridiculous.

This is disappointing news as from following the forums for over a year now, it just seemed people were able to change the bulbs out from the top down in the engine bay.. I'm assuming this is only the case for the non-tech folks with no oem HID's and the retaining clip for them is not held in with two screws as it is for the D1S bulbs. I guess having to remove the headlight insures that almost no damage can come from bumping the replacement D1S bulb against anything.. I've just always been hesitant to remove bumpers from cars because of the fear of not getting that factory fitment with the alignment of bumper/hood/grill/headlight ..leaving gaps as result. Maybe less of a case with how Hyundai put the front together, or so I hope.

Time to go look up the service manual procedure for bumper removal online and familiarize myself I suppose.
 
Looking at the bright side, at least 99% of people with the factory HID's will never have to change the bulbs. They last forever, but most 1st owners at very least will never change the bulbs.
 
Very true..thanks again OP for the pics and looking fwd to seeing the output shots after alignment.
 
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