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Lost power to car on freeway

By the way I know I am very old and very stupid, but could you please tell me in simple terms a moron like me can understand what "Trolling" means, I don't actually know I thought it was a thing you do behind a boat with your bait while fishing while going forward slowly so the fish could be attracted to the bait and still be able to swim fast enough to get it.
http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=trolling
 
WOW! 33 definitions of trolling. I guess I fit #11 :D or I think that fits.

PS I still love you mileage DataGuy You have a great performing Car and foot combination.
 
I have a 2009 Genesis 3.8 V-6 with just over 15,000 miles. I had no issues with the car up to last week when I had the same problem with the car losing power on the highway.
It happened one week ago toward what was going to be the end of my 400 mile drive. I was travelling in passing lane about 70-75 mph when the gas pedal quit responding.
Steered the car over to the side of the road. Was able to restart the engine a couple of times and moved up the shoulder for about 500-1000 yards in an attempt to get to the next exit but it kept cutting off.
Had it towed to a local Hyundai dealership when checked the codes but couldn't find anything. The dealership provided a Genesis loaner, kept the car for 1 1/2 days, flashed the car's computer (per Hyundai's support line) and did a couple of lengthy test drives but couldn't make the problem re-occur.
Drove another 600-700 miles late last week with no problems.
Am concerned since apparently I'm not the only one with the problem. Yikes!
 
Hopefully there's another "geek" out there like me that drives around with an OBDII code reader in the trunk. I'm willing to bet that this issue is like the ESC light/transmission locked-in-park issue that has been previously noted on this forum.

In that case, the ECS light stays on after starting the engine and the transmission can not be moved out of park. It pops a U0101 pending code (Lost communication with TCM [traction control module]) if you happen to read the OBDII codes right then and there. Turning the car off and on again clears the issue...and the code (I've had this happen at least 10 times since I bought my Genny over a year ago). Techincally the pending code should stay in memory until a certain number of engine cycles have passed, but I've found that the code is completely gone after the engine restart.

I'll bet you five ways to Sunday that if the next person who gets this power loss issue has an OBDII code reader with them, they will have a pending U0107 code (Lost communication with throttle actuator control module) if they check their codes as soon as they can get to the side of the road. And it will probably be gone after the car is restarted.

Like many cars today, there is no direct linkage from the accelerator pedal on the floor to the throttle on the engine. The accelerator pedal on the Genny just goes into a box. That sends an electronic signal to the engine control module which combines the accelerator pedal position with a bunch of other signals before sending a command signal to the throttle actuator control module on the throttle, which opens or closes it appropriately.

As with the ECS light/locked-in-park issue, I'm betting that once in a blue moon the computer "burps" and can't figure out how to talk to the throttle control module. It takes a "re-boot" to re-establish the communication protocols. Definitely not a good situation, but how many times have you had to "re-boot" your Microsoft product? I trust the S/W coders at Hyundai about as much as I trust the S/W coders at Microsoft!!
 
I HATE drive by wire systems.

As for the ESC lamp staying on, it happened to me a couple weeks after I bought the car, and again a few months later.

(I HOPE I'M NOT JINXING MY SELF HERE) The problem has not happened again in over a year. (knock knock knock on wood).
 
Hello all....

I experienced this issue just the other day. I was driving from the Boston are to Montreal had this happen. The car goes into what I heard called a "Limp mode" when the check engine light and ESC lights come on. You can still drive, not fast, but enough power just to get you someplace. This would clear when I shut off the car for a few minutes and then started again. Not sure about others, but my '09' V6 Sedan would buck, sometimes quite badly.

I found a local dealer in VT and drove in. They said I was missing an ECU update. I did not have time to get it done right there they said it would be ok to drive it. This happened 4 more times on the way to our destination.

The following day on the way back this happened at least 6 times. I stopped back at the same dealer, they did the ECU update and all seemed well, but after driving another 70 miles, it started doing the same thing.

This morning I went to my original dealer, they re-checked all the codes, seems there was and ECU update that super-ceded the one done, but more so, there was also a TCU code and there was a TSB or something related to that code that indicated that a TCU update be done.

They did the appropriated ECU and TCU updates. I have only driven the car a few miles since, but it seems to have smoothed out.... but I still am not completely convinced, I need more miles to be sure. So... if you are having this type of issue, there is a TCU code deep down someplace and an update is needed. As well, make sure the ECU is updated properly, seems the first ECU update done actually didn't leave the confirmation code or whatever to validate the install of the update.

Hope this helps.
 
yeah that actually just happened to me today. i don't have an OBD2 scanner but took it to advanced auto and they took the code. it is. P0638, it is pretty much the throttle actuator not responding to pedal commands. I guess luxury cars have this system for some reason. there is no physical cable going from the pedal to the throttle, it is all an electrical wire going to the CPU which then moved the throttle actuator open and shut to accelerate. better take it to the dealership while code is there so they can replace the actuator or whatever mechanism controls that. :eek:
 
Here's the verbiage from www.hmaservice.com for that code. The full PDF was too big to post, so I just cut-n-paste the text. It's not very well written, but obviously the code is set when the actual and commanded throttle position do not agree.

"The Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) system is made of the components throttle body, Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) 1&2 and Accelerator Position Sensor (APS) 1&2. The throttle body contains the actuator, the throttle plate and the throttle position sensor (potentiometer), which are integrated in one housing. The actuator consists of a DC motor with a two-stage gear. The opening angle of the throttle valve is detected by the throttle position sensor which is mounted on the throttle body. And it provides feedback to the ECM to control the throttle motor in order to control the throttle valve opening angle properly in response to the driving condition. Checking output signals from TPS under detecting condition, if the difference between real and target throttle position is above the specified value, ECM sets P0638 and then MIL (Malfunction Indication Lamp) turns on."
 
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All very interesting.... I am still having the issue. I again brought the car to the dealer late last week. They cleaned the throttle body and reset the TCU. Again, it seemed ok, but after driving in a bit, it started again. I am bringing it back today, I will mention this code to them, but they did not mention seeing this code when they scanned the car. I think the issue now is, that if this was there, I believe the ECU updates actually reset the history, so... I may not be there. I will still mention it to them anyway.

Thanks!
 
If you have a friend with an OBDII reader, I recommend borrowing it. Since you seem to be getting this issue regularly, there's a good chance you can try to capture a code. The next time you get this issue, pull to the side of the road, do not shut off the car, then get out your scanner and check for any codes. I've had a code that pops when the ECS light has come on and the transmission would not shift out of Park. After I restarted the car, the issue and the code "magicially" cleared itself. If you are able to capture a code, it may help with troubleshooting the issue. The OBDII port is way up under the driver's side kick panel (helps to have a flashlight when you are looking for it.)
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Mike...

Well, finally the issue is resolved! I believe it was a combination of two things.

1. The throttle body was replaced. There have been reported issues of the throttle body sensor being not aligned properly or having issues, so they ordered a throttle body replacement.

2. A/C Compressor! It was going to take two days for them to the the throttle body. The day in between, I lost my A/C. Funny thing is, about a month and a half prior, when getting my oil changed, I mentioned to the service manager a clicking/tapping noise that happened on occasion. He listened and said "sounds like a Hyundai". I thought is was a tappet noise from the lifters. But now that the compressor quit all together, it was obvious where that was coming from.

I went directly to the dealer and we could see the compressor was seizing up. I am sure this was causing the belt to jam up a bit and likely causing the crank to hesitate. So they over-nighted the compressor and replaced the throttle body and a/c compressor last Thursday and it has been perfect since, smooth, responsive and quiet! Just as it should be.

Thanks for the advice,
Bill
 
Add me to the list of loosing power on the highway. Last night, driving to an appointment on the highway (around 70-75) the car lost all electric, stalled, and I pulled over to the side of the road. It started right back up. I continued to drive and about 10 miles down the road, car dies electrically for about 2 seconds (a/c, radio, gauges, etc all dead...) however, this time doesn't stall and continues running.

I get to destination, shut off the car and notice my steering wheel doesn't retract. I thought that was wierd, then when I went to trunk to get something and it wouldn't open (had to use key). The car was dead, nothing worked not even the door locks.

I couldn't deal with it at this point, so I left it and went in for my appointment. A little over an hour later car starts up and runs fine.

Fast forward to getting home, and car does the same thing and is dead in my driveway after shutting it off. I immediately assume battery issues, break out the voltmeter and the battery is showing 13 volts.

This morning go out to car, all is fine except my sunshade was up (was down last night) and the entire car is reset (trip meters, clock, radio lost all presets, etc)

It goes in to the shop on Monday along with the getting the new sunvisor they ordered for me put on (light wasn't working).

The car is a 09 V6 non-tech. Anyone have similar experience?
 
Appreciate the discussion. This happened to me last weekend traveling to Indiana from North Carolina on the 6th of May 2011 in 09 Genesis V6 with approximately 34K. After driving 8 hours, on a rural road in Indiana, traveling approximately 55 MPH, all of a sudden the engine light and ESC warning lights came on. After that when I pressed on the accelerator, there was no power. Electricity was still there and the engine was still on, but no power from the gas pedal. I had to turn the emergency lights on and moved onto the side. I was lucky because there weren't many cars around.

It would have been pretty dangerous if there were cars around and my car suddenly stopped.

I was able to move in limp mode for 3 miles to a hotel. I was able to turn the car off and restart. When I restarted the car the engine light remained on but I had regain the ability to accelerate. I called Hyundai. The closest dealer was Gaddis Hyundai of Muncie, Indiana. The service department was closing but I discussed with technician. He indicated that it was common problem with the throttle sensor. He indicated that he would be able to fix it Monday, but that if the light went off and it was running OK, it may never happen again. I told him that I need to be Durham , NC on Monday. He indicated that if it happen again. To turn off and restart and it should reset. On my way back from Indiana to North Carolina I stayed in the right hand lane. On 4 separate occasions the vehicle lost power and I was unable to accelerate. Each time I was able to pull over to the side of the road, turn the vehicle off, wait a few minutes and then restart and continue. The car is currently at a dealership for evaluation and so far they are unable to duplicate issue. Reported incident to DOT NHTSA, Office of defects Investigation, along with this link to this thread.
 
This is the first car forum I have regularly looked at and read because the Genesis is a car on my list. It seems like there are many posts about problems with the car. Is it because most people dont post unless there is a problem or does this car just have a lot of problems? Any more so than any other car?
 
This is the first car forum I have regularly looked at and read because the Genesis is a car on my list. It seems like there are many posts about problems with the car. Is it because most people dont post unless there is a problem or does this car just have a lot of problems? Any more so than any other car?

You should also check Edmunds.com, Car and Driver, J. D. Powers and MSN.com for consumer reviews and info. I have over 24,000 miles on my 2011 4.6 Genesis and the car has been perfect. Also, our previous car was an Acura which was a very good car, however it had an AC compressor failure at about 30,000 miles. I do think the nature of forums includes more information about possible problems than the good. If you check forums of other brands you will find similar ratio regarding complaints.
 
Correct me if I'm wrong, but it seems like these are mostly (if not all) 2009 models. Could it be 1st model year bugs that have been corrected in the 2010s and 2011s?
 
I was driving on the freeway tonight and all of a sudden the engine light and ESC warning lights came on. After that when I pressed on the accelerator, there was no power. Electricity was still there and the engine was still on, but no power from the gas pedal. I had to turn the emergency lights on and moved onto the side. I was lucky because there weren't many cars around.

It would have been pretty dangerous if there were cars around and my car suddenly stopped.

I just had the 30,000 mile service done about a month ago and they told me that ECS update has been done since I bought the car.


This happened to me when I had my 09 3.8. I was doing about 70 on the turnpike when I suddenly lost power. The ESC light and engine warning light went on. I was able to maintain about 30 mph and reached my destination which was a couple of miles away.

After letting the car sit for a few minutes. I tried restarting it and took a test drive around the block. Everything seemed to be fine.

I made it home and next day took it in to the dealer. He said it was a "computer" problem and that a "sensor" needed replacing. He also said that by letting the car sit for a minute and then restarting it, I had, in effect, rebooted the computer system. Which is why the car was fine after that.

By the way, the dealer had to order the sensor, which he said would take a couple of days. It never arrived. My lease ran out first. However, I had no trouble with the car during that time.
 
I have a 2009 V6 w/o tech package. Car has 16,000 miles on it, and has been perfect up to now. This EXACT same problem happened to me last week. Check engine light and ESC light came on and could not accelerate. Pulled over and restarted the car, and the check engine light came on but not the ESC light. Car drove a bit rough, but was able to get to destination. Over the next 3 days, the check engine and ESC lights came on once again with same acceleration problem. Past 2 days, no check engine light and no ESC light on, but car does not ride as smooth as usual. Seems to hesitate at times. Took it to dealer today and awaiting a call. This problem scares me, but glad to know that it has happened enough that Hyundai should know how to fix it by now. We'll see.
 
So is this isolated to 2009 MY? Or have some 2010's and 2011's had the same problem?
 
Got my Ginny back from the dealer today (1 day fix), and they replaced the throttle position sensor. Hopefully, that's the complete fix. I am still going to report this problem to the Transportation Safety Board because if this happens at 70MPH in the left lane of an expressway, it could be extremely dangerous. Should be a recall.
 
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