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My answer to best wax

I really think wax and polish is a personal preference. I have used quite a few wax polish combinations, looking for the perfect match. I finally found what works for me, pinnacle sovereign wax and
liquid glass polish. This combo gives me the look that I want. I also use a quality car was soap and clay bar. I have several ro buffers with a nbr of polishing pads. I think it also depends on how much time you want to dedicate to detailing. Some guys can do a complete detail in a day. Me, I take my time, being retired affords the extra time. In any event, enjoy it, take some time to experiment and you will have the satisfaction of a job well done. JM
 
I really think wax and polish is a personal preference. I have used quite a few wax polish combinations, looking for the perfect match. I finally found what works for me, pinnacle sovereign wax and
liquid glass polish. This combo gives me the look that I want. I also use a quality car was soap and clay bar. I have several ro buffers with a nbr of polishing pads. I think it also depends on how much time you want to dedicate to detailing. Some guys can do a complete detail in a day. Me, I take my time, being retired affords the extra time. In any event, enjoy it, take some time to experiment and you will have the satisfaction of a job well done. JM
I 'm a carnauba guy, I clay bar my cars and after that I polish with Pinnacle Advance Finishing Polish then I wax with Pinnacle Souveran Liquid wax, the result is incredible. Other wax I like especially on dark colors is Collinite #915.
 
You have any tips on easy removal of the 915? I was debating between the 915 and the 845 but instead went with meguiars ultimate liquid wax since supposedly it offers the same amount of durability yet doesn't stain trim. I am almost out of ulw so am looking for a new option for a sealant. I like how collinite is a carnauba with sealant like properties, allegedly.
 
You have any tips on easy removal of the 915? I was debating between the 915 and the 845 but instead went with meguiars ultimate liquid wax since supposedly it offers the same amount of durability yet doesn't stain trim. I am almost out of ulw so am looking for a new option for a sealant. I like how collinite is a carnauba with sealant like properties, allegedly.
Collinite is a carnauba wax with almost the same durability as any sealant (like ULW) but gives this 3D wet looking shining that only carnauba waxes have. The tip for applying Collinite is tho apply very THIN with a foam pad, apply in quarters, don't let dry completely to a haze, a minute or two is enough, then remove with DA or MF towel. Its amazing how it looks!
 

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I really think wax and polish is a personal preference. I have used quite a few wax polish combinations, looking for the perfect match. I finally found what works for me, pinnacle sovereign wax and
liquid glass polish. This combo gives me the look that I want. I also use a quality car was soap and clay bar. I have several ro buffers with a nbr of polishing pads. I think it also depends on how much time you want to dedicate to detailing. Some guys can do a complete detail in a day. Me, I take my time, being retired affords the extra time. In any event, enjoy it, take some time to experiment and you will have the satisfaction of a job well done. JM

I've been using Meguairs for close to the last 20 years from the Gold classic then the NXT when it first came out followed by the NXT 2.0 and now the Ultimate on all my vehicles including my Travel Trailers. I have even experimented to see if something like the Mother's Ca Gold Pure Brazailian Carnaubu would enhance the finish which is didn't IMO. There might me something a little better, but IMO probably marginly so and I'm sure not going to invest the amount of time and effort to do something like Zaino for something I probably can't tell much difference in. I also am past waxing every few weeks which you have to do with the Carnauba waxes and want something a little more durable.

Larry
 
i wash with a foam cannon using chemical guys citrus wash first then follow up with a 2 bucket method. after i dry i will clay (if needed). i follow with chemical guys wet butter wax, and finally with chemical guys v7 sealant. i can flow my teeth in the shine of my gray metallic car (don't own a genny...yet)
 
Sunday I spent 7 hours buffing my Car with Chemical Guys products and great results. I have used Meguiars and Wolfgang but CG stuff works great and easier to deal with. Here in Northeast Ohio my car get pretty scratch up during the winter.

- Clay Bar
- V36 with Orange Pad
- V38 with White Pad
- Black Light with Black Pad
- Jet Seal, 2 coats by hand

It looks great now I have to do my wife's Sorento(Black too) but I also just ordered the CG Butter Wet Wax for in-between wax coats.


 
Just got my foam cannon, haven't had a chance to use it yet. Wanted to have a new sealant before I used it so I can reseal the car. Looks like a bunch of you like chemical guys so I will check what they have to offer. That no frills collinite looks interesting though (I know it is a wax, not a sealant). I like trying new stuff but the Megs ULW has worked well for me in the past.
 
Just got my foam cannon, haven't had a chance to use it yet. Wanted to have a new sealant before I used it so I can reseal the car. Looks like a bunch of you like chemical guys so I will check what they have to offer. That no frills collinite looks interesting though (I know it is a wax, not a sealant). I like trying new stuff but the Megs ULW has worked well for me in the past.

I still love Meguiars stuff but the few dollars extra you pay for CG stuff is totally worth it. People state that if you properly apply Jetseal, that it can easily last 12 months.
 
I have had great results with the Maguiars Ultimate Liquid wax. It goes on and comes off very easy. The wax holds up well under the hot SoCal sun, and when we do see rain, it beads up nicely.

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I have a 10 inch DA polisher I use on my car. I love it. I use a slightly more aggressive pad to polish the car and then a soft pad for laying wax. It takes out the swirls well and then the wax just finishes it off. I haven't really taken a pic of the genesis like that but here is a pic from my old car using the same process.
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A 10 inch DA polisher??!! Are you 100% sure? What brand is this thing? How much amperage is the motor?

To have a 10" DA polisher you'd have to have 12-15 amps to turn pads that large and have any affect on the paint. just sayin'
 
Wax is a protectant layer, nothing more, it does not add gloss nor depth.

Totally false. Wax does exactly what you say it doesn't do. It's all about giving a shine (glow). Synthetic waxes have a great shine but not as warm and deep as carnuba waxes. So, not sure where you get this.

Cleaner wax, however, will add "gloss" and "depth" by the use of fillers and a meager amount of polishing oils blended in. Fillers don't last the length of the actual wax, which causes you to apply more sooner. Cleaner waxes and glazes are a staple of any "detailer" at a used car lot.

Cleaner waxes vary from one product to the other... some will have "fillers" that will hide swirls and scratches, but, usually those jobs are in "glazes" not paint cleaners.

Most paint cleaners do what the name implies.... cleans your paint of old waxes, some sealants and a few coatings. It also removes the oils from previous polishes and waxes and prepares your car for the next step of cleaning whether that be via clay bar or something like Iron-X or both.

What wax is the best wax? For me, it's just a pure carnauba, if it goes on easy and comes off easy, then it is the best. All waxes will bead water and provide sheeting action and most offer the same amount of durability. I apply wax with my Meguiars G110V2 dual action polisher on a 6.5" finishing pad. Front bumper is a little busy, so I apply it by hand there, but the rest of the car is doable with a single 6.5". Allow wax to cure for 15 minutes or so, check with a finger swipe (Clean finger, swipe, should expose completely clean area, if no streaks or spotting, then it's time to buff). I grab a clean 6.5" finishing pad, one mist of detailing spray on the pad and buff off. One spray to the pad per panel is sufficient for wax removal.

Most DA polishers (which are safe in a novices hands) are great for swirl removal and wax application. Porter Cable is one of the more popular DA machines, but the Griot's Garage iteration has a lifetime warranty, no questions asked, and they also have great customer service and products.

My process:

- Foam cannon as a pre-soak and rinse off

A foam gun will do just as well and you will not need a power washer (think $200-$600) to do the same thing. Always rinse your car first.... then use the foam gun (just attach it to a water hose, no power washer necessary) and let the soap dwell for 4-6 minutes out of direct sun and on a cool car body.

- 2 bucket wash, rinse bucket has Grit Guard fitted to the bottom (Grit Guard should fit snug to the bottom and should not spin, if it does, you have the wrong bucket), 2 different wash mitts (One for above the belt line, one for below the belt line)

Perfect!!

- Dry with cordless leaf blower, finish up with soft waffle weave towel

Leave blower either corded or cordless is best, but, most corded models have more power than cordless, but, then you have the hassle of the cord and need an extension.... but, less time to do the job.

- Inspect paint condition, if no correction needed, apply sealant, allow to cure 24 hours, then apply a 'topper' (wax)

Claybar and or Iron-X your car first, then use the appropriate "polish" (not wax) to get out the swirls and scratches. I'd recommend Meguiar's M100 as it's MUCH easier to use and way less dusting than M105 which is a biotch to use for a novice. Then use Meguiar's M205 to "finish" your paint correction.

Then you are ready to start applying your coating (better be experienced) sealant, then the wax of your choice.

Carnuba waxes product the warmest and deepest shine, but the synthetic waxes aren't far behind and are much longer lasting.

- If correction is needed, Meguiars M105, pad depending on severity of correction needed, follow up with Meguiars M205. Then sealant, allow to cure, then wax. In a pinch if not enough time is allowed for my prefered sealant to cure, then I substitute Chemical Guys Black Light, it only has a cure time of 30 minutes between coats. Not as durable as HT-62, but still good enough for me.

Also, check your microfibers, if you drag it across your palm and it feels like velcro, then you have shit microfibers. I've had great success out of The Rag Company online in getting quality microfiber without paying for someone's name on them.

Use quality microfiber towels made in Korean. All Chinese towels I've used are total JUNK. Zaino blonde bordless towels are great and available online only. There are many other good ones, but, check out autogeeonline.com and you'll get dizzy with all the information and products available. But, you can buy Mike Phillips book on detailing and it's fantastic!! Will save you lots of time and headaches.

Sorry 84Fordman, but, had to correct some of your incompleteness and a few inaccuracies. No novice should try to use Meguiar's M105... Maybe Menzerna FG400 which is FAR superior and WAY easier to use. Just depends on the level of correction his car needs.
 
Perfectionists prefer carnauba wax, but I prefer a polymer wax that goes on easy and is hard to get off (or wear off).

Not necessarily. Some folks like the crisper look of synthetic wax.... now when it comes to show cars, then carnuba is definitely king.... but, even some of those guys like the synthetic waxes as the gap is narrowing rapidly.

Carnuba is a warmer deeper shine to be sure.
 
Not necessarily. Some folks like the crisper look of synthetic wax.... now when it comes to show cars, then carnuba is definitely king.... but, even some of those guys like the synthetic waxes as the gap is narrowing rapidly.

Carnuba is a warmer deeper shine to be sure.
Many of the carnauba waxes sold these days have come synthetics in them so they are a hybrid product. A pure carnauba wax will fall off the car if you just look at it the wrong way.
 
DAMN that looks nice (both the wax job and the mods)




Sunday I spent 7 hours buffing my Car with Chemical Guys products and great results. I have used Meguiars and Wolfgang but CG stuff works great and easier to deal with. Here in Northeast Ohio my car get pretty scratch up during the winter.

- Clay Bar
- V36 with Orange Pad
- V38 with White Pad
- Black Light with Black Pad
- Jet Seal, 2 coats by hand

It looks great now I have to do my wife's Sorento(Black too) but I also just ordered the CG Butter Wet Wax for in-between wax coats.


 
Many of the carnauba waxes sold these days have come synthetics in them so they are a hybrid product. A pure carnauba wax will fall off the car if you just look at it the wrong way.

Yep.... I've yet to try any hybrids but will at some point. And yes, pure carnuba is virtually useless in DD cars.
 
Use quality microfiber towels made in Korean. All Chinese towels I've used are total JUNK. Zaino blonde bordless towels are great and available online only. There are many other good ones, but, check out autogeeonline.com and you'll get dizzy with all the information and products available. But, you can buy Mike Phillips book on detailing and it's fantastic!! Will save you lots of time and headaches.

Sorry 84Fordman, but, had to correct some of your incompleteness and a few inaccuracies. No novice should try to use Meguiar's M105... Maybe Menzerna FG400 which is FAR superior and WAY easier to use. Just depends on the level of correction his car needs.

Towels are touch and go, not all Chinese made towels are junk and not all Korean made towels are good. If buying online, I recommend buying a single one until you can feel it. Take the towel and run it across your palm, if that shit feels like Velcro, trash it. I've had good success with The Rag Company's towels, as getting a Borderless Blonde is hit or miss (They sell out quickly). Then you factor in the cost difference, a 16x16 ZBB is about $8.32 a towel. TRC's 16x16 Eagle Edgeless (Korean 70/30 mix) is under $5 a towel.

I switched to the Eagle Edgeless a year or two ago, keep about a dozen of them. Extremely happy with the quality and durability.

Haven't tried Menzerna FG400 before, always preferred M105 and M205 as they got the job done and if I ever ran low or out, I could just go down to O'Reilly Auto Parts and get another bottle, not have to drive 45 minutes to the nearest Finish Master or wait 2 to 3 days for UPS. I'd never recommend anyone starting off with their heaviest cutting pad and X compound. I am intrigued that FG400 claims to not dust.
 
Damn I am not sure if this would be any good, but I just buy the micro fiber towels at costco in the big packs...as long as you are using the dual bucket method I dont see why any decent mf towel wont do. Plus I use a new towel for each wash and trash the mf towel afterwards since it only costs under a dollar each.

But I do buy the nice waffle weave towels from autogeek for drying and the extremely plush mf towels for removing compound, polish and wax.
 
Towels are touch and go, not all Chinese made towels are junk and not all Korean made towels are good. If buying online, I recommend buying a single one until you can feel it. Take the towel and run it across your palm, if that shit feels like Velcro, trash it. I've had good success with The Rag Company's towels, as getting a Borderless Blonde is hit or miss (They sell out quickly). Then you factor in the cost difference, a 16x16 ZBB is about $8.32 a towel. TRC's 16x16 Eagle Edgeless (Korean 70/30 mix) is under $5 a towel.

I switched to the Eagle Edgeless a year or two ago, keep about a dozen of them. Extremely happy with the quality and durability.

Haven't tried Menzerna FG400 before, always preferred M105 and M205 as they got the job done and if I ever ran low or out, I could just go down to O'Reilly Auto Parts and get another bottle, not have to drive 45 minutes to the nearest Finish Master or wait 2 to 3 days for UPS. I'd never recommend anyone starting off with their heaviest cutting pad and X compound. I am intrigued that FG400 claims to not dust.

Lordy.... why do you right fighters change and or put words in people's mouths?! I NEVER said ALL Chinese towels are junk.... I said the one's I've used were junk, but, MOST of the Chinese towels are JUNK. NEVER said ALL Korean towels are good.... just a WAAAY better chance of getting a good towel with Korean microfiber even if it's "assembled" in China. The Rag Co. Bordless Blones are currently in stock and if someone wants any they should grab as many as they can afford, because as you said, they do run out because they will NOT compromise quality. The Eagle Edgless is a pretty decent towel but not as good as the Bordless Blonde towels. Being as you can use them for years and years if you wash/dry them properly, the minor difference in cost is money well spent.
If you don't think Meguiar's M105 is a very heavy cutting polish, then I don't know what is.... plus is has quite a learning curve to it. Also, I have 2 O'Reilly's here and neither of them carry either M105 or M205, BUT, if you know you're running low on a polish, just order a couple of days in advance if you're so anal as you think some irreversible damage will come to your car if it goes 2 or 3 days for UPS to arrive.... gawd...... this is the most ridiculous argument I've ever read!!
Good to know you did your research on Menzerna FG400..... go ahead and order some now so you'll be sure not to run out IF you need to continue to use that powerful a cutting polish. Or perhaps you're in the detail business and use quite a bit of heaving cutting polish..... either way FG400 is way easier to use, does not dust and works better than M105.
 
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