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New 2010 v6 sedan owner

Just a update: I had the tensioner pulley replaced under warranty because it sounded like a really bad power steering pump low on fluid

Now the car has 60K on it and the engine is making a noise that almost sounds like lifters of a car with no oil in the engine on start up. This last for a few seconds and clears and only does it after the car sits for a few hours. I'll update the dealer findings when i drop the car off this coming monday/tuesday.

Also has anyone had issues with the dome lights flickering randomly when the doors are open?
 
Turns out, the last place that did the oil change used the incorrect filter which causes a dry start contition due to the filter having a lack of baffle in the filter or something to that affect.
 
Also has anyone had issues with the dome lights flickering randomly when the doors are open?
I believe you just need to exercise the buttons in the door jamb (that signals when the door is open) to clear that up.
 
Turns out, the last place that did the oil change used the incorrect filter which causes a dry start contition due to the filter having a lack of baffle in the filter or something to that affect.

I would like to know more about this prognosis. There have been many debates about which brand of filter to use. The paper capped OEM I believe produced by Mahle, or the rubber capped one that some have said does a better job with what you mentioned above.

Did you see the filter they said was the problem? Did you keep it? How did they price the point to you that you relayed above?

There are many on this forum who have sick V8 engines (high oil consumption). And others who want to put the proper components as replacements. I appreciate in advance your response.

Moderator... This "Tapatalk" app for this forum on my iPhone is now saying "this forum moderator has prevented/disabled sharing images from this app." I wanted to show pictures of the different filter designs and ut says you are blocking the uploads from my phone.
 
Moderator... The uploading of images used to work fine until recently when the quote above popped up.
 
Congrats on your new Genny and :welcome: to the forums !!

My 2010 has been great overall, reliability has been above average IMO and very few problems to speak of. When the new Genny comes out I'll most likely get it but have no intentions of trading in my current one, I like the body style and the color is no longer available.

She still turns heads after 3 years and at least once a day someone will ask me what kind of car I'm driving...the part that really gets them is when I say It's a Hyundai. A lot of people still think of them from the old Elantra's etc. and not for what they make today. Hyundai has come a long way in a short period of time and keeps getting better.
 
:welcome: to the club... You will not be dissappointed with this car.

4 months into owning my 2009 V8 and loving every second behind the wheel. Absolutely great value.

As others have said, there is no virtually no after market for this car. That being said, it's plenty fast enough. I love making the wife whiteknuckle the 'holy #*%&' handle. Her opinion may differ, but I digress :P

I love that color btw, looks sick with the tint.
 
Just a update: I had the tensioner pulley replaced under warranty because it sounded like a really bad power steering pump low on fluid

Now the car has 60K on it and the engine is making a noise that almost sounds like lifters of a car with no oil in the engine on start up. This last for a few seconds and clears and only does it after the car sits for a few hours. I'll update the dealer findings when i drop the car off this coming monday/tuesday.

Also has anyone had issues with the dome lights flickering randomly when the doors are open?


Every once in a while mine flicker then it goes away, supposedly a loose ground somewhere in the car though I haven't been able to trace where. It doesn't happen often enough to worry about I guess, maybe once a month if that.
 
I would like to know more about this prognosis. There have been many debates about which brand of filter to use. The paper capped OEM I believe produced by Mahle, or the rubber capped one that some have said does a better job with what you mentioned above.

Did you see the filter they said was the problem? Did you keep it? How did they price the point to you that you relayed above?

There are many on this forum who have sick V8 engines (high oil consumption). And others who want to put the proper components as replacements. I appreciate in advance your response.

Moderator... This "Tapatalk" app for this forum on my iPhone is now saying "this forum moderator has prevented/disabled sharing images from this app." I wanted to show pictures of the different filter designs and ut says you are blocking the uploads from my phone.

The did a oil change with the half price dianogstic charge. I didn't ask for the old filter because I was almost due for an oil change an ways. I will say after having the car for a few days it hasn't made that noise and the engine is quieter! They stated the filters weren't that much. Something like 10-15 bucks a filter if I were to just buy it from them.


Every once in a while mine flicker then it goes away, supposedly a loose ground somewhere in the car though I haven't been able to trace where. It doesn't happen often enough to worry about I guess, maybe once a month if that.

That's good to know. I did notice its not singled out to just one door on my car.
 
They stated the filters weren't that much. Something like 10-15 bucks a filter if I were to just buy it from them.
The 2010 V6 OEM filter costs about $8 at any Hyundai Parts Department. The correct one has hard plastic black end caps with the green o-ring inside both ends of the filter (not talking about separate O-rings that go on the filter cover). The newer filter has white end-caps and is for 2012+ models and costs more than $10, but it is not the correct filter for the 2009-2011 V6.
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The 2010 V6 OEM filter costs about $8 at any Hyundai Parts Department. The correct one has hard plastic black end caps with the green o-ring inside both ends of the filter (not talking about separate O-rings that go on the filter cover). The newer filter has white end-caps and is for 2012+ models and costs more than $10, but it is not the correct filter for the 2009-2011 V6.

That's good to know. I haven't even looked at a filter for this card yet. With it having a extended warranty I take it in to have basic services done on it.
 
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That's good to know. I haven't even looked at a filter for this card yet. With it having a extended warranty I take it in to have basic services done on it.
I do my own oil changes, as there is no requirement to have a dealer do it in order to maintain the warranty. I don't trust dealers to do it correctly, and there have been instances where dealers used the wrong filter.
 
I do my own oil changes, as there is no requirement to have a dealer do it in order to maintain the warranty. I don't trust dealers to do it correctly, and there have been instances where dealers used the wrong filter.


I agree no matter where you take it they can always mess it up. However, it’s easier to fight any warranty work if you have a paper trail for everything compared to me doing it all myself. I've already ran into an issue on a previous car with an extended warranty because I did my own oil changes. They tried to use the argument saying just because I purchased oil and filter doesn't mean I changed it etc. etc.
 
I agree no matter where you take it they can always mess it up. However, it’s easier to fight any warranty work if you have a paper trail for everything compared to me doing it all myself. I've already ran into an issue on a previous car with an extended warranty because I did my own oil changes. They tried to use the argument saying just because I purchased oil and filter doesn't mean I changed it etc. etc.
Yes, dealers often try that scam in order to deny a warranty claim. However, one just has to remind them that the US Federal Government has ruled that it is not necessary to have all maintenance done at a dealer to maintain the manufacturer warranty. Also, in order to deny a warranty claim, even if you didn't change the oil, they would have to prove that the lack of oil changes was related to the problem. In other words, if you transmission goes out, they can't blame lack of engine oil changes.

My problem with having dealers do service is that, even though one "might" have less of a hassle in making a warranty claim if they do the service, one is more likely to have problem because they are often incompetent and don't do it right. For example, with an oil change they might not use a high quality oil (even if you tell them to use a synthetic and pay them to use a synthetic, there is no guarantee that they will actually use a synthetic).

However, if one has a dealer extended warranty (as opposed to a manufacturer's extended warranty) then you probably will be screwed if the dealer does not do the service, since that actually may be a written part of the warranty agreement. But I would never, ever, have anything to do with a dealer extended warranty.
 
Well it looks like I might be parting way with my genesis due to it looking like it might not be a reliable car due to electrical issues. Currently the below issues are actively going on with the car.

1) Dome lights flicker. The rear dome light is only about 1/10th as bright as the front.
2) Driver seat doesn’t like cold weather and doesn’t work
3) Seatbelt light stays on randomly
4) Car security light comes and goes while driving it
5) The car doesn’t want to lock or unlock. Thankfully it start every time. I have placed a new battery in this remote 3 times in the past 4 months.
 
Stealth.. For the remote... If you garage it, and leave the fob near very near the car or inside it, I heard that affects the battery life. From the proximity system.

Sorry to hear about the electrical issues.
 
Stealth.. For the remote... If you garage it, and leave the fob near very near the car or inside it, I heard that affects the battery life. From the proximity system.

Sorry to hear about the electrical issues.

The wife love the car but we think this one might be headache down the road. It seems like im taking this car into the dealerhip every other month for them not to be able to reproduce the issue.

My wife has talked with the GM and he has agreed to take look at the car and give us a loaner while they go over the car. Depending on how that turns out we might just ended up with a newer model of the genesis, or just go back to a mazda. Mazda seems to have less issues from my personal experience.
 
The wife love the car but we think this one might be headache down the road. It seems like im taking this car into the dealerhip every other month for them not to be able to reproduce the issue.

My wife has talked with the GM and he has agreed to take look at the car and give us a loaner while they go over the car. Depending on how that turns out we might just ended up with a newer model of the genesis, or just go back to a mazda. Mazda seems to have less issues from my personal experience.

Unfortunately for lots of us, the Genesis is a problem machine. Thank goodness for the long warranty. I bought mine used in July 2013 and it's been in the shop 7 times and has to go back after the first of the year for more "electrical" issues. None of these problems have been mechanical, for which I'm grateful, but all these nagging issues with windows not going up or down, front seat heater/cooler not working, steering column having to be replaced, rear window defogger not working properly, and that's all that comes to mind. And I haven't even touched on TSB/Campaign issues. I'm tiring very quickly of problems this car has. I like it in many ways, if I could just stay away from the dealership's service department, I would be a happy camper
 
I agree... And we can compare a bit.... Does not justify the chaos, but some micro consolation and a warning not to go from the pan to the fire..

The vaunted Audi problems on the forums are giant and never ending. Same for the Mercedes, BMW, Acura, VW, Porsche, Lexus, Infiniti, Lincoln, and Cadillac. I experience more and diverse chaos problems than here.

If I would get cranked off enough to leave this mark, I certainly would not pay even bigger bucks for those other crappy cars above.


Many of us came from great quality, value priced cars before the Genny. Others, not so much. Those like myself who have had two decades of amazing experience with quality products that did not break (as I experienced) are disappointed.

Some days, makes some of is want to go back to a last gen Accord, last gen Fusion, or Toyota, or Buick, or Ford/GM half ton pickup, many of us have owned without problems.

For those who are too young to remember... The people overwhelmed with emotion to defy all logic that bought Jaguars, Audi, Cadillacs back in the late 70s through the mid 90s. Absolute junk, all of them. Alloy engines that failed in 10k miles, paint problems and rust that within 2 years the Audi products had rust falling off the cars over bumps, electrical systems that would leave people stranded, dead, or the cars burned to the ground. Total chaos.

And do not forget the cheap ass design rice burner "timing belt" chaos.

For those of us who get sick of the quality problems, the only choice is to go back to base model quality cars. Base model Fusions (no DIS or AlGore "ecoboost") that has timing chain good for 300k, electronics that work, solid chassis and mechanics, decent to drive.... Same analogy for a Buick, or basic Mid sized Chevy. And if one wants to out up with the cheapie timing belt engines, any Base model Honda. Toyota, and Nissan should be decent. Buy the "SE" Camry built at the Subaru plant in Indiana.. It has the highest quality ratings of any Toyota. These types of cars, odds on, will provide few hundred thousand miles of cheap driving.

And if you can find a Very low mileage Crown Vic Sport (made through 2012), total reliability. As the Mobile one commercial says, they go 500k miles. Electronics and the rest are very solid. Certainly for up to 150k+.


In the end, we all play Russian roulette with our Genny's. I have a feeing the 2014 and beyond Equus will be at the top of the reliability heap. Have nothing to justify that, except driving a Ultimate for 3 days. The dealer let me do this by "slow play" the oil change in the Genny. Tempting me to buy. And tempt they did. Otherwise, back to. Crown Vic, (what I provide for my daughters.. Cheap insurance, safe, never breaks), new semi base Fusion, or a US made Subaru (stupid timing belts though).

Ok, having fun here. Nothing serious. Trying to get a chuckle out of those of us in misery now. :)
 
It’s true that every car has its own set of issues but electrical ones are harder to trace down then anything mechanical. I often find mechnical are easier to reproduce and fix over the electrical issues. Not to mention you can always find better built aftermarket "upgrades" to help prevent any further mechanical issues from that part.
 
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