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Oil Change @ Dealership

confusedman

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They wanted $120 for synthetic blend. Said because it's 10quarts not 5. This sounds absurd to me. Is this normal? Of course, I refused. But, do people actually pay this?
 
Your are lucky, my dealer in Canada charges $120 for dino oil.:eek: I do it myself with synthetic. Here Syn goes for $42++ for 5 quarts, add a filter @ $10 and you are already up to $102 just in parts. Best bet is to buy the Syn on sale prior and get it for 1/2 price. ;)
 
They wanted $120 for synthetic blend. Said because it's 10quarts not 5. This sounds absurd to me. Is this normal? Of course, I refused. But, do people actually pay this?
Ask them what they charge if you supply the oil?

Two 5-quart jugs of Mobil 1 (full synthetic) would cost about $55 (including tax) at Walmart. As noted by others, the oil changes on the 2015 are a bit more time consuming due to the more complicated panels that have to removed underneath the car.

The problem I have is that I don't trust the mechanic to use the oil I give them, because the one time I had them do an oil change, and I supplied the oil, but they didn't use it (long story). It's not necessarily fraud, just incompetence.
 
They wanted $120 for synthetic blend. Said because it's 10quarts not 5. This sounds absurd to me. Is this normal? Of course, I refused. But, do people actually pay this?

Actually, the V8 uses 8.5 qts. But, in any case, that price seems about right.
The V8 filter/oil change is quite labor intensive and the engine does take a lot of oil compared to your granddaddy's V8 which usually did max out at about 5 quarts.

I would worry more about how the job is done - and only you can judge your dealer/mechanic. Lots of luck on that.
 
Wow, so I guess they weren't ripping me off (that bad). Going to take it to my local mechanic anyways to get his opinion, been going to him for years, I'm certain he will do it cheaper was just going for convenience well other stuff gets serviced.
 
Wow, so I guess they weren't ripping me off (that bad). Going to take it to my local mechanic anyways to get his opinion, been going to him for years, I'm certain he will do it cheaper was just going for convenience well other stuff gets serviced.

Welcome to the world of luxury automobiles. You have to pay to play. Make sure your shop uses OEM oil filters. There have been engine problems created by using some after market filters and not just in newer Hyundai cars.
 
Wow, so I guess they weren't ripping me off (that bad). Going to take it to my local mechanic anyways to get his opinion, been going to him for years, I'm certain he will do it cheaper was just going for convenience well other stuff gets serviced.

There you go again - looking for "cheaper".

I've been doing this stuff for 60 years (no kidding) and I would charge perhaps $200 to do it right on a G2 V8 which is what I think you have.

1. 8.5 qts of pure synthetic @ $5.00/qt (my cost - not your mechanic's cost) - forget the "blend" silly oil. Use Mobil One.

2. $12 for a rather puny little "cartridge filter".

3. Add lots and lots of labor for a very poorly designed oil/filter changeout system (love those bottom panels).

p.s. does your local mechanic know about the Hyundai "crush washers" and "O-Rings"? Those are fun, too.

On second thought - Make that $250 -- I would do the job right, and charge accordingly.
 
Welcome to the world of luxury automobiles. You have to pay to play. Make sure your shop uses OEM oil filters. There have been engine problems created by using some after market filters and not just in newer Hyundai cars.

To my knowledge you have no choice as an aftermarket oil filter for the Gen2 V8 does not exist. The kit comes with a drain plug crush washer, o-ring for the casing, replacement filter housing drain screw complete with new o-ring.

That being said, buy 4 or 5 at a time and save shipping charges. I bought mine last spring, 5 kits at $38 delivered. Should be good for a few years. ;)

Google search the part number "263203F500"
 
This thread reminds me I am due an oil change. My dealer provides them free. Didn't realize how much a savings it was.
 
I have had two oil changes but I also have prepaid maintenance so I have never really paid attention to the cost.

Given the full synthetic oil I wouldn't say its too absurd.
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Or, you don't use synthetic, accept the blend and an OE filter on whatever multi-oil change package the dealer offers in house, and go on about your day.
Not saying I get 5 dealer oil changes for under 100 bucks...but I do. Same dealer does any/all work, including warranty work.
 
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I have had two oil changes but I also have prepaid maintenance so I have never really paid attention to the cost.

Given the full synthetic oil I wouldn't say its too absurd.

Check the retainers underneath. Bet you a tank of gas you are missing at least 1 if not 3. ;)
 
I do my own oil change. I got a V6 so it is about 7 ish quarts. I get Mobil 1 Extend Performance 5 quarts container for $28 each. I use about 1 1/2 per oil change so it is like $42 and the OEM filter from my local dealer is about $9 with tax. $51 total for a good oil change

The only thing I dislike is that it takes me like 30 minutes to take the panels off and the back on and the oil change part only takes me 15 minutes
 
I routinely change oil on my Nissan 350z and VW TDI wagon and both have those pans beneath the engine. However with some effort, I am able to reach the rear fasteners without moving too far under each car. How do you manage the Genesis with its huge two-piece pan without lifting the entire car? Even with jack stands, I rarely fell comfortable under a car, so the notion of traveling way under my new Genesis makes me very nervous. And to complicate matters, those plastic push pins can't be easy to insert while holding up the pan (at the same time).
 
I change my own oil on my V6 as well, have only done one change so far but it was not that bad. I don't like jack stands when I am far under the car so I bought a product called Race Ramps on Amazon, very secure as they are a solid material and easy to drive up with an 8 inch lift. I found I was easily able to get under far enough to get to both panels without issue. They are a bit of a pain, but very light plastic so once you get two fasteners in they will stay up.

If I get lazy in the future I may break down and get a mityvac and try to do it all from up above but for now I'll remove the panels. I'm going to follow the 7,500 mile interval from now on with Mobil 1, for me that is about 9-10 months of time so it isn't like I have to remove them that much. Heck if I turn this car in at lease end I only have 3-4 oil changes left to do ;)
 
I routinely change oil on my Nissan 350z and VW TDI wagon and both have those pans beneath the engine. However with some effort, I am able to reach the rear fasteners without moving too far under each car. How do you manage the Genesis with its huge two-piece pan without lifting the entire car? Even with jack stands, I rarely fell comfortable under a car, so the notion of traveling way under my new Genesis makes me very nervous. And to complicate matters, those plastic push pins can't be easy to insert while holding up the pan (at the same time).

I bought a Mity Vac fluid pump to remove the oil on the V8 -over 8 qts.

This eliminates, at least, the necessity of removing the rear protective panel. Also, no need to remove the oil pan plug & crush washer - This can sometime be a source of a slow leak unless you torque the bejesus out of it putting it back in.
 
Check the retainers underneath. Bet you a tank of gas you are missing at least 1 if not 3. ;)

Which retainers? Can you take a picture of yours?

I also have prepaid service (mistake!) with a Hyundai dealer. They have been complete crap so far.
 
I am not crawling under my car to take pictures. There are several fastners used to hold the 2 protective panels under the car. Any of those is what I am referring to. I suggest you crawl under your car and check them out however if you are thicker than 6 inches you will need to lift the car or put it on ramps. :rolleyes:
 
Which tool is the better for removing the push pins - the phillips driver or the panel tool?Tools.webp

The push pins have a phillips head.
 
Are they just the black plastic trim screws? Hold the base to prevent it from rotating, unscrew the screw part until you can pop the whole thing out...
 
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