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Oil change dilemma

Yes. Op, if you really want some definitive answers, get a Blackstone report after running it for a year.

Do share with us your driving habits though. Not allowing the oil to properly heat up and reach temp is a one way ticket to having lots of moisture/condensation build up as well as fuel dilution.

I change oil once a year - Mobil One. Both vehicles, since 1975.

I consider Blackstone reports rather interesting, and have had them done recently on both vehicles.

But, I'll continue to rely on my own experience. I know both the history of Mobil One and Blackstone. Use Mobil One and you will be OK. Pay for those Blackstone reports, amuse yourself, and burn 'em next winter in the fireplace.

They always tell you to use that oil a little bit longer.
 
I've never personally had a Blackstone report done. I do not do extended drain intervals so I don't really feel the need for it. It's not as if the report is factitious however so if the OP cares to have the info, there's no drawback to having it done.
 
Is the low mileage because you do a lot of city driving? Or do you simply not drive it much?

If you do a lot of city driving, I would be doing oil changes every 3,000-5,000 miles or every 3-5 months using whatever synthetic is cheapest or makes you feel good/comfortable. If you're going to do the traditional 3,000/3 month interval, you could get away with a conventional/semi-synthetic as well.

If you're just not using the vehicle much, you could probably get away with yearly oil changes. If you're not comfortable with that, two times a year will work just fine. Use any synthetic that meets Hyundai specs (API Service SM/ILSAC GF-4 or above).

As far as M1 0W40, it will be perfectly fine if ran in the Gennie. It meets some of the most stringent oil specs in the industry from both manufacturers, API and ACEA and it will most definitely NOT hurt your engine. With that said, there are other oils better suited for your engine and it isn't because of the phosphorus or zinc levels. It is because its HTHS viscosity of 3.8 is much too thick for your engine which calls for something closer to 2.7-3.0 like what the M1 0W20 and 0W30 offers, respectively.

I'm retired now and do mostly short suburban trips of 3-6 miles. I only start the car 3 or 4 days a week. This is why I am considering conventional oil, changed twice a year (4000 miles a year), over synthetic oil, changed once a year. The idea of moisture condensation in the oil, concerns me.
 
I'm retired now and do mostly short suburban trips of 3-6 miles. I only start the car 3 or 4 days a week. This is why I am considering conventional oil, changed twice a year (4000 miles a year), over synthetic oil, changed once a year. The idea of moisture condensation in the oil, concerns me.
If it is a question of cost, use Tech 2000 synthetic oil at Walmart. It is about the same price as a name brand conventional oil, but much better quality.
 
I'm retired now and do mostly short suburban trips of 3-6 miles. I only start the car 3 or 4 days a week. This is why I am considering conventional oil, changed twice a year (4000 miles a year), over synthetic oil, changed once a year. The idea of moisture condensation in the oil, concerns me.

You have the right idea. With driving habits like that, fuel dilution will be a problem and there isn't an oil that will stand up to that.

Mark 888's suggestion of using Tech 2000 is a good choice as well.
 
If you mostly drive 4-6 miles at a time, 4000 mile changes with dino oil may be too long. You need to drive it 20-30 miles (or more) every couple of weeks.

Whatever you decide to do, it would be well to send a sample to Blackstone when you do a change to find out if you are OK.
 
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I use 5-30 fully synthetic. However, as stated, conventional oil does assist in a faster break in of a new engine and highly recommended. After that, I'm all about synthetic and only drive 5-7K miles/yr.

However, I would NEVER use the cheapest oil of any kind. I wholeheartedly believe a good dino oil is waaay better than a cheap synthetic.
 
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