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oil change notice

Coming from the boating world, I know many engine builders (up to and exceeding 1400 hp) use Royal Purple Synthetic. I was always leery to use low volume suppliers but these builders sure do swear by it. Mark, have you any experience with this manufacturer? Probably overkill anyways for a low load application.

There is also an excellent Oil Filter Study but wont apply to the Genny as it has a cartridge style filter not included.
 
Coming from the boating world, I know many engine builders (up to and exceeding 1400 hp) use Royal Purple Synthetic. I was always leery to use low volume suppliers but these builders sure do swear by it. Mark, have you any experience with this manufacturer? Probably overkill anyways for a low load application.
I have never personally used Royal Purple, but have seen it discussed on many forums. Royal Purple synthetic oil in grades 5W-20 and 5W-30 (the two grades that would be appropriate for the Genesis) are both API certified SL Energy Conserving Formulas, which is the most important consideration in choosing an oil both for performance and warranty reasons. There are some other "boutique" oils that actually have high levels of PAO/Ester base stock, but do not meet these certifications, and I would avoid those oils.

In looking at the Royal Purple website, I found this in answer to "the question."

Is Royal Purple synthetic motor oil?
Yes. Royal Purple Motor Oils are composed of a proprietary formulation of synthetic base oils and synthetic additives containing iso-paraffinic diluents.

No specific mention in the answer about PAO/Ester Group IV/V Base stock, but that does not mean it is a bad oil, and it probably contains additives with some Group IV/V stock. The main thing I would be concerned about is whether it is actually worth the $8.50 per quart price I have seen sell for in stores, especially when you can get a 5-quart jug of Mobil 1 for $26.00 or Mobil 1 Extended Performance for $28.50 at most Walmarts. Even if the prices were the same, I would use Mobil 1 simply because it is more of a known quantity, but I doubt that anyone would notice any difference between them in most passenger cars.

If someone is using Royal Purple for a 1400 hp engine, it may be a different grade oil than the 5W-20 and 5W-30 that we would use, so I don't know if there are some special Royal Purple oils for that particular application that would justify its price. But I read in a forum about someone (retired Pennzoil employee) who recently went to the 24 Hours of Daytona race and went into the pits to look around, and almost everyone was using Mobil 1 5W-30 straight from the retail bottle with no extra additives thrown in. He asked some people if they were paid to use it, and they said no, they just use it because it works. The cars in that race are more like passenger cars that most other race cars.

The best bargain in a synthetic oil (aside from sales or mail-in rebates such as currently offered by Mobil 1) may be Walmart's SuperTech Synthetic oil, which is a very good Group III synthetic oil (with small amounts of Group IV/V additives).
 
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I have never personally used Royal Purple, but have seen it discussed on many forums. Royal Purple synthetic oil in grades 5W-20 and 5W-30 (the two grades that would be appropriate for the Genesis) are both API certified SL Energy Conserving Formulas, which is the most important consideration in choosing an oil both for performance and warranty reasons. There are some other "boutique" oils that actually have high levels of PAO/Ester base stock, but do not meet these certifications, and I would avoid those oils.

In looking at the Royal Purple website, I found this in answer to "the question."

Is Royal Purple synthetic motor oil?
Yes. Royal Purple Motor Oils are composed of a proprietary formulation of synthetic base oils and synthetic additives containing iso-paraffinic diluents.

No specific mention in the answer about PAO/Ester Group IV/V Base stock, but that does not mean it is a bad oil, and it probably contains additives with some Group IV/V stock. The main thing I would be concerned about is whether it is actually worth the $8.50 per quart price I have seen sell for in stores, especially when you can get a 5-quart jug of Mobil 1 for $26.00 or Mobil 1 Extended Performance for $28.50 at most Walmarts. Even if the prices were the same, I would use Mobil 1 simply because it is more of a known quantity, but I doubt that anyone would notice any difference between them in most passenger cars.

If someone is using Royal Purple for a 1400 hp engine, it may be a different grade oil than the 5W-20 and 5W-30 that we would use, so I don't know if there are some special Royal Purple oils for that particular application that would justify its price. But I read in a forum about someone (retired Pennzoil employee) who recently went to the 24 Hours of Daytona race and went into the pits to look around, and almost everyone was using Mobil 1 5W-30 straight from the retail bottle with no extra additives thrown in. He asked some people if they were paid to use it, and they said no, they just use it because it works. The cars in that race are more like passenger cars that most other race cars.

The best bargain in a synthetic oil (aside from sales or mail-in rebates such as currently offered by Mobil 1) may be Walmart's SuperTech Synthetic oil, which is a very good Group III synthetic oil (with small amounts of Group IV/V additives).

I will repeat myself again. It doesn't matter. Change your oil with a quality oil on regular interval and you will be OK. There are only a few cars on the market that even require using synthedic and its not Hyundai. Save you money and enjoy your car.
 
I will repeat myself again. It doesn't matter. Change your oil with a quality oil on regular interval and you will be OK. There are only a few cars on the market that even require using synthedic and its not Hyundai. Save you money and enjoy your car.
You can repeat it all you want. Many of us have used synthetic oil on previous cars, and will never go back.
 
Castrol Syntec, with minor modifications, is used as the "official" BMW USA synthetic oil (complete with BMW labels on the bottle, rather than Castrol labels). When I had my 3-series and it went to the dealer for the free maintenance, it always got the official BMW oil. And BMW does require synthetic oil, partly due to its 15,000-mile oil change interval. (I did 7,500-mile intermediate oil changes anyway.)

bavauto.com (the guys who sell BMW aftermarket parts) did advise me of the fact that Castrol isn't really true synthetic. They did recommend and sell the Castrol, but they preferred to sell me Lubro Moly, a German brand that is not only true synthetic, but is the factory fill in German-built BMWs. Even though my 3-series is now sold, and I will never drive another BMW, I still have several quarts of Lubro Moly 5w-30 lying around, and could eventually use it on my Genesis.

The "problem" with Lubro Moly is that it's normally not available in the US, and as a result, it doesn't even have an American Petroleum Institute rating. I'd stick to oils that actually have an API rating, if only in the interest of protecting the warranty. I guess my beater Honda Accord could use the Lubro Moly instead.

For now, my Genesis gets conventional Pennzoil at the dealership. The dealer prefers that I come back often and get conventional - more money for them. I'll eventually demand synthetic after 5-6 oil changes, however. As my Genesis is primarily for highway driving and long trips, and I own it outright and will drive it for a long time, it'll be much better to do fewer oil changes but insist on synthetic.
 
Castrol Syntec, with minor modifications, is used as the "official" BMW USA synthetic oil (complete with BMW labels on the bottle, rather than Castrol labels). When I had my 3-series and it went to the dealer for the free maintenance, it always got the official BMW oil. And BMW does require synthetic oil, partly due to its 15,000-mile oil change interval. (I did 7,500-mile intermediate oil changes anyway.)

bavauto.com (the guys who sell BMW aftermarket parts) did advise me of the fact that Castrol isn't really true synthetic. They did recommend and sell the Castrol, but they preferred to sell me Lubro Moly, a German brand that is not only true synthetic, but is the factory fill in German-built BMWs. Even though my 3-series is now sold, and I will never drive another BMW, I still have several quarts of Lubro Moly 5w-30 lying around, and could eventually use it on my Genesis.

The "problem" with Lubro Moly is that it's normally not available in the US, and as a result, it doesn't even have an American Petroleum Institute rating. I'd stick to oils that actually have an API rating, if only in the interest of protecting the warranty. I guess my beater Honda Accord could use the Lubro Moly instead.

For now, my Genesis gets conventional Pennzoil at the dealership. The dealer prefers that I come back often and get conventional - more money for them. I'll eventually demand synthetic after 5-6 oil changes, however. As my Genesis is primarily for highway driving and long trips, and I own it outright and will drive it for a long time, it'll be much better to do fewer oil changes but insist on synthetic.
Castrol Syntec sold in the US is a Group III oil, but Syntec sold in EU has substantial amounts of Group IV/V PAO/Ester base stock (not just Group IV/V additives). There is one exception, and that Syntec 0W-30 sold in the US, but made in Germany (per the label) and is specifically designed for European car specs that require that viscosity. Hyundai only recommends 5W-20 or 5W-30 viscosity for the Genesis.

Castrol Edge has substantial amounts of Base IV/V Pao Ester synthetic stock, but is more expensive than Mobil 1. Instead of Castrol Syntec, a very good Group III synthetic is Walmart's SuperTech Full Synthetic at about have the price of Castrol Syntec.

The problem with Lubro Molly is not that is not available in the US, the problem is that is designed for German car specifications and may not not be the best oil for the Genesis. But I cannot say for sure without seeing the specs and the certifications. I am sure that is excellent for a BMW.
 
I have been using Mobil 1 ever since it came on to the market. Many years ago I witnessed a test on major engine oils. They ran the oils up to 250% of the API rated temp. range and Mobil 1 did not change at all while all the rest turned into somehting that looked like maple syrup! Of course that was when it was full synthetic but I'm still sold. I use it on all my boats and cars.
Three year ago I had an engine pulled (faulty timing belt) on a 1984 BMW 325 that I put 198,000 miles on (all with Mobil 1) as they stripped the engine down they (and I) could not believe that the engine showed no real sign of wear! But the most amazing was that the entire engine was free of any "varnishing or sludging" anywhere especially under the valve cover. Mobil 1 does cost more but I will still use it on all my engines. Just my 2 cents!
 
I have been using Mobil 1 ever since it came on to the market. Many years ago I witnessed a test on major engine oils. They ran the oils up to 250% of the API rated temp. range and Mobil 1 did not change at all while all the rest turned into somehting that looked like maple syrup! Of course that was when it was full synthetic but I'm still sold. I use it on all my boats and cars.
Three year ago I had an engine pulled (faulty timing belt) on a 1984 BMW 325 that I put 198,000 miles on (all with Mobil 1) as they stripped the engine down they (and I) could not believe that the engine showed no real sign of wear! But the most amazing was that the entire engine was free of any "varnishing or sludging" anywhere especially under the valve cover. Mobil 1 does cost more but I will still use it on all my engines. Just my 2 cents!

I used Mobil1 in my boat. It had an 800hp supercharged custom 454 EFI. After 350 hours, my engine builder was going to replace the bearings but they were still within new tolerances. Sold me on Mobil1 anyways.
 
Mark_888, thank you.

The lack of an API rating is why I decided that the Lubro Moly won't go into my Genesis. I'm sure it'll work fine (and I presume that the formulation is probably not much different from API-rated oils), but I won't risk the warranty.

I'll be using conventional Pennzoil a bit longer while I look for a suitable API-rated synthetic replacement oil.
 
Imagine my surprise when I found out that the trip odometers on the Genesis only go up to 999 miles. I guess that in Korea, that is as far as you can drive in one trip.

Or 999 kilometers, which is more like it.

Seriously, the longest drive in South Korea will never exceed 500 kilometers one-way. I went nuts and did 2,600 km on a rental Sonata over 9 days last fall - but that's only because I'm American used to doing ridiculously long drives, and because gasoline prices had dropped dramatically to something reasonable (equivalent of USD $3.50 per US gallon, compared to $4.50/gal I was paying stateside just a few months earlier and $8/gal that was the norm at the start of my Korean stay). FYI the average South Korean gasoline price at a given time is about twice the average US price.
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For those who are interested, check out the forums at http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ for more oil info than you ever thought even existed :D
As a frequent poster on that forum, I can tell you that there is not much consensus there, so don't go to that site thinking you will find any quick answers. Reading that forum tends to make people more conflicted than before.
 
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