Oil change timing....3,700 or 5,000 miles??

[TejasPete]

Manual says change it at 3,700 and when I received my car, the dealer sales rep that you can do it at 5,000. What are most Genesis drivers following? Also, how often are you rotating the Michelin tires? Love the car, but only have 1,800 miles so far.

 

[nextcar]

3700 miles is for extreme conditions.
i do 7500 miles.

 

[Jbo]

If owners manual ; under normal conditions calls for 3,700miles for FIRST oil and/or filter change; that is when to do it. Follow the owners manual for maintaince and you can not go wrong or have warranty issues. If you choose to over maintain, it's up to you and will do no harm.

 

[Potty_Pants]

My first oil change was at 1000 to remove manufacturing debris. After that ill do 7000 or 1 year whichever comes first. Id like to do synthetic but the free oil changes are a difficult offer to turn down


Ppp

 

[radicaltimes]

I do my oil change and tire rotation every 5000 miles. The manual says you can go 7500 miles, but I keep my cars for over 250,000 miles.

 

[OneFunGenesis]

Every 3000 miles. Oil comes out black as night every time.

 

[radicaltimes]

Every 3000 miles. Oil comes out black as night every time.

Mine comes out loking really good at 5000. The oil should not look like that unless it is a diesel at 3500 miles

 

[Mark_888]

Mine comes out loking really good at 5000. The oil should not look like that unless it is a diesel at 3500 miles

A GDI engine is going to cause the oil to be darker than in the equivalent non-GDI engine. That is one reason why I would recommend a good synthetic and frequent oil changes for a GDI engine.

 

[STREETS]

after first oil change- 7500 should be more than frequent enough using synthetic

 

[Ruissimo]

I did my first at 3,250... and the dealer didn't even charge me.

Just did my 7,500 mile service though.

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[Philth]

Color of oil doesn't indicate the remaining life of the oil, at all. Don't go by that.

 

[homeofstone]

I have been using Valvoline Synpower synthetic 5w30 since about 1994 in all my cars.
Oil/filter changes every 5000 miles. Never had a car that used or burned oil.
1999 BMW z3 216,000 miles, 1996 Suburban 171,000 miles, 2005 Acura 239,000, 2005Mecedes E500 112,000 miles, 2011 Genesis 4.6 76,000 miles

 

[Philth]

2011 w/76K miles. You must drive the ever living sh*t out of your cars.

 

[Rey]

I think the type of driving one does should determine change intervals. If your driving consists mostly of short trips of less than 10 miles, then treat your car to "extreme" standards. It takes about 10 miles for oil to come up to 180+ degrees where any moisture in the crankcase can be evaporated into the breather system.
Trips longer than 10 miles, like a 20 mile daily commute, are much less wearing on a motor. Oil has a chance to fully warm, etc.
My wife's driving is on very short trips in town so I change her oil, no matter what the mileage, twice a year.

 

[Crusty Old Shellback]

First change I did at 750, the rest at 5K where I also rotate/balance the tires. has worked for me for years in all cars.

 

[radicaltimes]

If you are leasing the car,there isn't any reason to do it more than every 7500. If you keep your cars foreve you can not go wrong by having more frequent oil changes

 

[Billfz1]

A GDI engine is going to cause the oil to be darker than in the equivalent non-GDI engine. That is one reason why I would recommend a good synthetic and frequent oil changes for a GDI engine.

Mark,
I don't mean to be contrary, but there is absolutely no reason for a GDI engine to foul it's oil. In fact the opposite is true. GDI inject directly into the cylinder and near TDC at that so the primary component in the cylinder until compression is air. That should not cause black oil. If you have BLACK oil at 5000 get your dealer to check crankcase vents. New diesels require egr to control emissions, and often are very dirty. I have a Dodge PU 2008 with a Cummins and the EGR causes the oil to be BLACK. I have another one that is a 1998 with 300K on it and that engine is DIESEL direct injection and the oil is just getting dark a 6500 and I mean a dark tan not black. If your GDI Hyundai is giving you black oil there is probably a emissions problem.
Bill

 

[Mark_888]

Mark,
I don't mean to be contrary, but there is absolutely no reason for a GDI engine to foul it's oil. In fact the opposite is true. GDI inject directly into the cylinder and near TDC at that so the primary component in the cylinder until compression is air. That should not cause black oil. If you have BLACK oil at 5000 get your dealer to check crankcase vents. New diesels require egr to control emissions, and often are very dirty. I have a Dodge PU 2008 with a Cummins and the EGR causes the oil to be BLACK. I have another one that is a 1998 with 300K on it and that engine is DIESEL direct injection and the oil is just getting dark a 6500 and I mean a dark tan not black. If your GDI Hyundai is giving you black oil there is probably a emissions problem.
Bill

I don't claim to be an expert on this subject, but here is a sample of what I have read about GDI (there are many other sources):

Carbon buildup on intake valves.

This is the big problem with most current GDI engines. Due to modern unburned hydrocarbon (UHC) regulations, vapors from the crankcase are usually vented into the intake stream in order to prevent oil droplets from escaping through the exhaust. In a port injection engine, these droplets are ‘washed off’ the neck of the intake valve by a relatively constant stream of gasoline droplets. In a GDI engine, the gasoline doesn’t touch intake side of the valve. As a result, the droplets have a tendency to bake onto the valve and significantly reduce performance. To add to this effect, many advanced GDI engines also include exhaust gas recirculation in order to lean out the combustion mixture and reduce in-cylinder temperatures for certain combustion modes (reducing NOx emissions). Since GDI combustion has the ability to produce far more soot than premixed combustion (port injection), the problem is magnified.

Even more alarming is that these deposits can dislodge and damage other downstream components (turbochargers, catalytic converters, etc.). Manufacturers have added systems to capture these oil droplets and particulates, but no system is 100% effective. As a result, there are many disappointed early adopters with large repair bills. Even diesel engines haven’t been immune to these issues.

The reason these issues have slipped through to production is that they won’t show up in a 500,000 mile torture test. These types of issues will appear after years of short trips (preventing the engine from reaching operating temperature), bad batches of fuel, etc. As we approach the efficiency limits of the internal combustion engine, the engines themselves (and associated support systems) have become more complex. As with the transition from carburetors to electronic fuel injection, there will be some overlap between relatively bombproof port injected engines and the unproven, first-generation GDI engines.

http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2012/05/ask-an-engineer-gdi-problems-in-a-nutshell/#more-442513​

Anecdotally, it seems that quite a few 2012 GDI owners on this forum have reported increased (compared to 2009-2011 Genesis) carbon emissions (soot) from their tailpipe.

 

[Billfz1]

I don't claim to be an expert on this subject, but here is a sample of what I have read about GDI (there are many other sources):

Carbon buildup on intake valves.

This is the big problem with most current GDI engines. Due to modern unburned hydrocarbon (UHC) regulations, vapors from the crankcase are usually vented into the intake stream in order to prevent oil droplets from escaping through the exhaust. In a port injection engine, these droplets are ‘washed off’ the neck of the intake valve by a relatively constant stream of gasoline droplets. In a GDI engine, the gasoline doesn’t touch intake side of the valve. As a result, the droplets have a tendency to bake onto the valve and significantly reduce performance. To add to this effect, many advanced GDI engines also include exhaust gas recirculation in order to lean out the combustion mixture and reduce in-cylinder temperatures for certain combustion modes (reducing NOx emissions). Since GDI combustion has the ability to produce far more soot than premixed combustion (port injection), the problem is magnified.

Even more alarming is that these deposits can dislodge and damage other downstream components (turbochargers, catalytic converters, etc.). Manufacturers have added systems to capture these oil droplets and particulates, but no system is 100% effective. As a result, there are many disappointed early adopters with large repair bills. Even diesel engines haven’t been immune to these issues.

The reason these issues have slipped through to production is that they won’t show up in a 500,000 mile torture test. These types of issues will appear after years of short trips (preventing the engine from reaching operating temperature), bad batches of fuel, etc. As we approach the efficiency limits of the internal combustion engine, the engines themselves (and associated support systems) have become more complex. As with the transition from carburetors to electronic fuel injection, there will be some overlap between relatively bombproof port injected engines and the unproven, first-generation GDI engines.

http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2012/05/ask-an-engineer-gdi-problems-in-a-nutshell/#more-442513​

Anecdotally, it seems that quite a few 2012 GDI owners on this forum have reported increased (compared to 2009-2011 Genesis) carbon emissions (soot) from their tailpipe.

Mark, the source you quoted makes the point that EGR is the source of some buildup. As a mechanical engineer I would debate the "soot" point though. The reason for GDI is that a higher compression ratio can be used and the charge can even be burned when leaner than normal, so if particles are being made, and I don't doubt you there it is more likely to be caused by EGR or crankcase venting. Some of our smog controls aren't totally logical. The original ppm requirements were set up so the biggest engines could pass smog. We are now requiring extreme measures to get minimal improvement. Again if your Genesis of any engine is turning the oil BLACK get your smog controls checked.
Bill

 

[427435]

To the guy with black oil, send a sample in to a lab (under $30) and get a report on it.

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/