Oil Consumption in '12 R-Spec

[427435]

Yea, saw that. Thanks. The dealer is insistent on saying 5-20. Which appears to be wrong on their part.

Show him the page in your operator's manual and see what he says then.

 

[leasterly]

Okay I bought a 2012 Hyundai Genesis R-Spec in August of 2011. Everything was fine til I had my third oil change. My oil light would flash off and on every once in awhile. So then I knew I had to get my oil check. This happen a month after I got my oil change and when I check the oil my oil stick was clean...no oil. So I took it to the car dealership in Montgomery where I get all my services done and it was very low. So they started a oil consumption test where i had to bring it back to them every 500 - 1000 miles and each three times they had to add oil anywhere from 1/2 quart to 1 1/2 quart. They gave me excellent services and kept me posted on everything. So when I brought it in for the last oil check they didn't hesitated at all. They order me a new engine and they will be put it in on 06/10/2013. Hopefully when they do this it will take care of all my oil problems. I love my car but I knew as a woman that your car shouldn't be burned that much oil...I will keep y'all post but the car dealership has been very very wonderful to me. By the way my car only have 29,200 miles....when I bought it it only had 10-15 miles...If you are having problems with your R-spec with the oil please take it to your located car dealership and let them check out the problem.....

 

[Mark_888]

Okay I bought a 2012 Hyundai Genesis R-Spec in August of 2011. Everything was fine til I had my third oil change. My oil light would flash off and on every once in awhile. So then I knew I had to get my oil check. This happen a month after I got my oil change and when I check the oil my oil stick was clean...no oil. So I took it to the car dealership in Montgomery where I get all my services done and it was very low. So they started a oil consumption test where i had to bring it back to them every 500 - 1000 miles and each three times they had to add oil anywhere from 1/2 quart to 1 1/2 quart. They gave me excellent services and kept me posted on everything. So when I brought it in for the last oil check they didn't hesitated at all. They order me a new engine and they will be put it in on 06/10/2013. Hopefully when they do this it will take care of all my oil problems. I love my car but I knew as a woman that your car shouldn't be burned that much oil...I will keep y'all post but the car dealership has been very very wonderful to me. By the way my car only have 29,200 miles....when I bought it it only had 10-15 miles...If you are having problems with your R-spec with the oil please take it to your located car dealership and let them check out the problem.....

I know the engine was under warranty, but let me give you some advice. If you ever see the oil pressure warning light turn on or flicker on any car, immediately pull over and check the oil level. If the dipstick is dry (no oil), or if you cannot check the oil, have the car towed to the dealer. Do not drive it anywhere except in an extreme emergency (and then only a very short distance).

 

[leasterly]

I know the engine was under warranty, but let me give you some advice. If you ever see the oil pressure warning light turn on or flicker on any car, immediately pull over and check the oil level. If the dipstick is dry (no oil), or if you cannot check the oil, have the car towed to the dealer. Do not drive it anywhere except in an extreme emergency (and then only a very short distance).

Thanks Mark_888....Thats why I didn't play around about getting my car to the dealership. I don't know what happen but they know I am a loyalty customer and I keep the maintenances up like it supposed to thats why I think they got right on top of the problem. As soon as it happen I called them and brought the automobile into the dealer. Thanks for the advice!!!

 

[bkleebauer]

Problem solved. 0w-30 full synthetic on last oil change and not a drop lost. Thanks guys (or gals) lol.

 

[Philth]

That's interesting.

 

[NSXNEXT]

Problem solved. 0w-30 full synthetic on last oil change and not a drop lost. Thanks guys (or gals) lol.

Hmmm seems opposite to what everyone else is saying. I thought higher weight 5w30 was the answer. Ugh!!!

How many miles since you switched?

 

[EXBMWGUY]

I use 5-30 Pennzoil Ultra with zero oil consumption after switching from M-1 0-w20 and using 1qt-3,000 mi.

 

[Mark_888]

Hmmm seems opposite to what everyone else is saying. I thought higher weight 5w30 was the answer. Ugh!!!

How many miles since you switched?

0W-30 and 5W-30 are the same viscosity (weight) when the engine is warm/hot. The first viscosity rating (0W or 5W) is when the engine is cold at start up.

So perhaps one should not be using 0W-20 or 5W-20 with the 5.0 GDI engine. But the other variable is conventional vs synthetic. Don't know if that makes a difference, but generally synthetic is highly recommended for GDI engines of any make.

 

[EXBMWGUY]

When I first started using 0w-20 in my 5.0, it was with one assumption: 0w would flow better at initial startup under extremely cold conditions. I also knew that ALL synthetic oil flowed better than conventional oil at -30-40F. But what I have come to believe is that there are two measures of cold oil protection at startup: (1) flow, as just described, and (2) how well (and how long) oil clings to moving parts, especially on the valve train part of the engine. I have come to believe my 5w-30 oil will flow at any temperature I will ever need in Minnesota, that I might give up a fraction of 1 mpg, and will get better overall lubrication protection with a high quality, super high-detergent full-synthetic like Pennzoil Ultra, and that other full synthetics that meet all the non-Euro Hyundai specs will be just fine.

Mobil 0w-20 did not work well for me.

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[Mark_888]

When I first started using 0w-20 in my 5.0, it was with one assumption: 0w would flow better at initial startup under extremely cold conditions. I also knew that ALL synthetic oil flowed better than conventional oil at -30-40F. But what I have come to believe is that there are two measures of cold oil protection at startup: (1) flow, as just described, and (2) how well (and how long) oil clings to moving parts, especially on the valve train part of the engine. I have come to believe my 5w-30 oil will flow at any temperature I will ever need in Minnesota, that I might give up a fraction of 1 mpg, and will get better overall lubrication protection with a high quality, super high-detergent full-synthetic like Pennzoil Ultra, and that other full synthetics that meet all the non-Euro Hyundai specs will be just fine.

Mobil 0w-20 did not work well for me.

bkleebauer (see post above) said that when he switched to 0W-30 that solved his oil usage problems on the 5.0. Don't know if that was Mobil 1 0W-30 AFE or some other brand.

I have used Mobil 1 0W-30 or 5W-30 (or sometimes a blend of these) in my Genesis V6, because I have come to believe that Hyundai's specification of 5W-20 is just for their CAFE MPG compliance, and not the best viscosity to use for long engine life.

 

[EXBMWGUY]

I have used Mobil 1 0W-30 or 5W-30 (or sometimes a blend of these) in my Genesis V6, because I have come to believe that Hyundai's specification of 5W-20 is just for their CAFE MPG compliance, and not the best viscosity to use for long engine life.

Totally.

 

[NSXNEXT]

Consumer Reports sees oil vanish from some test cars

http://autos.yahoo.com/news/consumer-reports-sees-oil-vanish-test-cars-140000066.html

ConsumerReports.org - Consumer Reports sees oil vanish from some test cars
Lately it seems an undue number of test cars at our track have been going through motor oil. We can remember years when we barely had to add oil to any test car between service visits. Something has changed.

We think most consumers don't want to pop the hood and add oil between oil changes. Those days are gone, in theory. But now we've had several cars that need regular infusions.

Our latest car drinking oil is our $105,000 2012 Porsche Panamera, which is consuming a quart of 0W-40 motor oil about every 2,000 miles. With a 10,000 mile oil change interval, that's five quarts of synthetic oil (at about $8 per) in between oil changes. Several of our drivers got caught out by low oil warning lights and went searching for this obscure lubricant at night while out on the town. And trust us, not every corner convenience store carries 0W-40-weight motor oil. When we talked to Porsche about this, they said this usage was within spec. But we think somebody who bought a $100,000 car probably expects better.

And the Porsche is not the most egregious example. This writer bought the Consumer Reports 2008 Volkswagen Eos test car and kept it for five years. The whole time, it used a quart of equally expensive 0W-20 motor oil every 1,200 miles (accumulating black soot on the rear bumper above the tailpipe the whole way). After several trips back to the local Volkswagen dealer to document the problem, I was told that the VW spec for this engine was, exactly a quart every 1,200 miles. Since I couldn't prove it was using more than that, VW wouldn't help. That car also specified a 10,000 mile oil-change interval, for regular maintenance. By then, all the oil in the sump had been replaced twice.

Learn how to check your engine oil and other maintenance advice in our special section.
This problem has plagued other cars, too. In 2006, Mercedes replaced the V6 engine in one of our test cars under warranty after we finished testing them, because of excessive consumption of 0W-40 oil.

Even Japanese cars known for their reliability have lately been burning oil. When I took our 2012 Subaru Impreza to Boston for a weekend, it dropped down a quart on my way back, prompting a late-night search for more 0W-20 weight oil.

Auto engineers have told me they see no correlation between today's lightweight "0W-" motor oils, designed to reduce friction and save gas, and excessive oil consumption. But in our admittedly anecdotal experience, both the prevalence of such lightweight oils and the propensity of more engines to consume oil seem to be moving in tandem. And our test cars that have had this problem have all used such lightweight synthetic oils.

Has anybody else seen a correlation? Had a problem with a relatively new car consuming excessive amounts of oil? Do you think "a quart every 1,200 miles" is normal and/or acceptable for a modern car? Please let us know in the comments, below.

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—Eric Evarts

Hmmm two cars both using low weight oils....and it looks like they have more.

 

[EXBMWGUY]

Hmmm two cars both using low weight oils....and it looks like they have more.

How has your 5.0 been performing on oil consumption lately? Are you using a 5-30?

When I changed, it made a huge difference within one oil change.

 

[NSXNEXT]

How has your 5.0 been performing on oil consumption lately? Are you using a 5-30?

When I changed, it made a huge difference within one oil change.

I bought mine in March and have put on less than 800 miles on it. I have a daily driver and with the terrible weather as of late Genny hasn't left the garage.

I plan to do an oil change at 1,000 miles to Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30.

 

[Genny4me]

I had been using a quart every 1k since I bought the car (with 4600). Since my last change things have improved a bit. It now takes 2k miles to burn a quart. I'm at 12k on the odo now.
I go back to the dealer on Friday so they can add a quart and document the issue.

 

[DRS]

I had been using a quart every 1k since I bought the car (with 4600). Since my last change things have improved a bit. It now takes 2k miles to burn a quart. I'm at 12k on the odo now.
I go back to the dealer on Friday so they can add a quart and document the issue.

In the three oil changes in 9500 miles to date, never any hint of oil consumption. Same level for the original oil, then Kendall full synthetic, to Pennzoil ultimate, then Mobil One extended drain.

 

[DRS]

Quick survey... What oil filters are you all using? Factory cheapie without the flange seal at the top? Or aftermarket with the better seal designs? I wondered if the faulty design of the OEM filter metal particles and other junk through. Especially during the first 10k.

Are those with crappy (high) consumption using OEM filter? And those who do not have any problems using aftermarket with the better seal design?

 

[Mark_888]

Quick survey... What oil filters are you all using? Factory cheapie without the flange seal at the top? Or aftermarket with the better seal designs? I wondered if the faulty design of the OEM filter metal particles and other junk through. Especially during the first 10k.

Are those with crappy (high) consumption using OEM filter? And those who do not have any problems using aftermarket with the better seal design?

Can you specify the brand and post a pic of an after-market filter with a "better seal design"?

 

[EXBMWGUY]

Quick survey... What oil filters are you all using? Factory cheapie without the flange seal at the top? Or aftermarket with the better seal designs? I wondered if the faulty design of the OEM filter metal particles and other junk through. Especially during the first 10k.

Are those with crappy (high) consumption using OEM filter? And those who do not have any problems using aftermarket with the better seal design?

Have never used anything except OEM installed by the dealer.